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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone,

First post but you guys are indispensable in advice and troubleshooting.
I just purchased a 2006 Ody Touring with 210k. Timing belt, water pump, and tensioner were done at 145k, unfortunately with NAPA parts. I assume the coolant was drained and replaced but not with OEM as the color is green. As the current coolant brand/type is unknown, what is the best advice on my next step?
 

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My fear would be they totally cheaped out and put coolant in that should only be in for 3 years and doesn't have the proper additives to lube the water pump, seals, etc. If you are hoping to get to 300K or beyond it would be wise to do the TB with an Aisin kit and get the right anti-freeze in there. Based on other postings here the most common failures from non-Aisin or OEM kits are the water pump and tensioner.
 

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OP, who do you think makes NAPA parts, they could be Aisin or someone else. You could start by asking NAPA central where the parts are sourced from.

Also, antifreeze is a cheap fix, and any major brand that meets the Honda spec is fine. Also, Honda, at least in the US, doesn't make antifreeze. Also, use distilled water from the supermarket with the antifreeze, or buy the premix. You can wait till you decide what to do about the timing belt.
 

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I use Pentafrost and Aisin coolants, but only blue coolants...no green. Personally, I'd change it back to blue as the corrosion inhibitors in the blue are made for the system. If it's green then you have no idea what kind of coolant they put in.

As for the timing belt components I'd live with it but keep an eye on things. I'd be watching for coolant leaks at the water pump and listen for any clacking of the timing belt tensioner.
 

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I use Pentafrost and Aisin coolants, but only blue coolants...no green. Personally, I'd change it back to blue as the corrosion inhibitors in the blue are made for the system. If it's green then you have no idea what kind of coolant they put in.

As for the timing belt components I'd live with it but keep an eye on things. I'd be watching for coolant leaks at the water pump and listen for any clacking of the timing belt tensioner.
Same here, I've used Zerex in quite a few vehicles with no issues also. Just as long as it meets the requirements for OEM coolant. I would flush that green shit out lol That's the cheap prestone junk. Doesn't have nearly the same life or capabilities as different long life coolant you can buy. As far as your timing belt I would just listen for timing noise or hydraulic tensioner knocking. I had a Dayco one put on a while back and it failed on me at below 40k..in the middle of a bad winter..FREEZING cold temps below -30 wind chill- If you have to replace it again Go with Aisin or Honda. Trust me you will thank us.

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Discussion Starter #7
I use Pentafrost and Aisin coolants, but only blue coolants...no green. Personally, I'd change it back to blue as the corrosion inhibitors in the blue are made for the system. If it's green then you have no idea what kind of coolant they put in.

As for the timing belt components I'd live with it but keep an eye on things. I'd be watching for coolant leaks at the water pump and listen for any clacking of the timing belt tensioner.
Thanks for the reply, John. Would you recommend doing a single radiator drain and fill or possibly multiple? Or is a complete flush the way to go? Any experience using the Valvoline Zerex blue coolant?

I am moving the family to Montreal in two weeks and am trying to get this Ody ready. I will definitely have to keep on eye on the timing belt components. My 06 EX-L jumped time two weeks ago because a oil leak swelled the timing belt. Not a good thing to happen.
 

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I use the xerex asian blue its great If you do a drain/flush dont forget the rear heater. Ideally if you have a floor jack and stands, raise the rear before you drain at the radiator, turn the rear heat on to open that valve, and open the block drain. You probably wont get all the coolant out. If you wanted all the green out you could probably fill with distilled water at that point, start and run it up to temp then drain it again.
Oh and then when you fill it move your jack and stands to the front and raise it this ensures no voids (bubbles) in the system. Cycle the front and rear ac and heaters on and off several times. And a day or two later check your reservoir again.
As for your belt its probably fine but if it makes you feel better there are inspection ports behind rubber plugs on each cam cover. Mirror and flashlight will suffice, or android endoscopes are silly cheap on ebay. I got one for $12 works great.
 

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The Zerex red and blue are the same coolant only colored differently to match the original coolant's color. Walmart sells the Zerex Asian coolant with Valvoline label which is the exact same product only with a Walmart exclusive packaging and a whole LOT cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I use the xerex asian blue its great If you do a drain/flush dont forget the rear heater. Ideally if you have a floor jack and stands, raise the rear before you drain at the radiator, turn the rear heat on to open that valve, and open the block drain. You probably wont get all the coolant out. If you wanted all the green out you could probably fill with distilled water at that point, start and run it up to temp then drain it again.
Oh and then when you fill it move your jack and stands to the front and raise it this ensures no voids (bubbles) in the system. Cycle the front and rear ac and heaters on and off several times. And a day or two later check your reservoir again.
As for your belt its probably fine but if it makes you feel better there are inspection ports behind rubber plugs on each cam cover. Mirror and flashlight will suffice, or android endoscopes are silly cheap on ebay. I got one for $12 works great.
So the plan I'm beginning to formulate would be to drain as much green coolant as possible and then to refill with the Valvoline Zerox Blue. Is there an estimate on how many gallons when draining the radiator and block?

I most likely will try to visually look at the cam cover inspection ports. Thanks for the assistance!
 

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How much cheaper is the Valvoline/Zerox and other aftermarket brands than the genuine Honda blue coolant? The genuine Honda coolant is less than $15 a gallon on Bernardi and other sites. That's what I use - even if it is a few dollars more. Buying several gallons defrays the shipping cost.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
How much cheaper is the Valvoline/Zerox and other aftermarket brands than the genuine Honda blue coolant? The genuine Honda coolant is less than $15 a gallon on Bernardi and other sites. That's what I use - even if it is a few dollars more. Buying several gallons defrays the shipping cost.
Currently, WallyWorld has it for 12.97 per gallon. Bernardi has it on sale for 14.78 each plus 28 for shipping (for 3 gallons) to Kansas. So total about 24 per gallon. Amazon has it for 25 per gallon, free shipping.
 

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Thanks for the reply, John. Would you recommend doing a single radiator drain and fill or possibly multiple? Or is a complete flush the way to go? Any experience using the Valvoline Zerex blue coolant?

I am moving the family to Montreal in two weeks and am trying to get this Ody ready. I will definitely have to keep on eye on the timing belt components. My 06 EX-L jumped time two weeks ago because a oil leak swelled the timing belt. Not a good thing to happen.
Drain the radiator, expansion tank, and block. That will get near 2 gals of coolant out.
To drain the block, get under the car, look at the back of the engine on passenger side. You will see a nipple
and 12mm nut. Undo the nut and coolant will drain. If you want controlled flow, connect a hose to the nipple.
The only coolant that will remain is heater core and residual. That will get you 98% job.
 

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Sorry, but I’m be been working on cars, all makes, all models. Every manufacturer insists on their specific, oils, trans fluid, coolant....it’s all a load of crap. There’s global coolant which mixes with any other coolant that our shop uses.(we are a dealership alternative for every make and model. If your stupid enough to believe you need Honda coolant, have at it. You’re wasting money and not gaining anything what so ever. It doesn’t really matter what coolant you’re using. Even these “long life coolants” from every single manufacturer still are best when changed every 2-3 years. Ignore me? Whatever. I don’t really care what anyone does when maintaining their vehicle. But sorry, this one coolant opinion is absolutely ludicrous.


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Ease up, my friend. I don't see anyone saying "one coolant" or "OEM only". I do see a lot of people saying "There are several coolants that meet Honda specs, choose one of them." It's been widely demonstrated that mixing arbitrary coolant types together, or using a coolant of incorrect chemistry, can result in jell-o, rapid corrosion of various sorts, or other damage.

It's true that the "universal" coolants exist, and as such, they are necessarily a lowest-common-denominator of all the more specific formulations. They therefore require the frequent changes you describe.

We're all just here to help one another. We've all got enough to deal with already, let's try to keep it positive.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I've got 3 gallons of the Valvoline Blue ready to go. I've been looking at draining as suggested. Is the block plug facing the radiator close to the front motor mount? This seems to be in a pretty tight spot.
I do not want to mix the green and blue so I assume draining the block as well as the heater core(s) would be the best. Will I be leaving in a significant amount of the green if I do not do the block?
 

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The block has two drain plugs. The one on the front over the motor mount is most often removed to install a block heater. The one on the rear is much easier to access and to use thanks to the hose nipple.

You really need to drain the block to fully change the coolant. Old coolant will remain in the rear heater core and lines, but that's a relatively small quantity.

Drain and refill the reservoir too.

Dave
 

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Would there be any benefit to do a distilled water flush after draining/prior to the refill? I see it recommended in other forums but I don’t know ifs necessary or if it’s overkill to give you the warm fuzzy feeling : )
 

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Probably a good thing to do as long as you drain most all of the water out. Otherwise you will dilute the coolant you add and not know what concentration you have unless you measure with a refractometer.
 

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Would there be any benefit to do a distilled water flush after draining/prior to the refill?
I wouldn't, for the reason mentioned in the previous post. Some water will always remain in the system, mostly in the rear heater core and lines.

Better to mix the new coolant with old rather than with water. Most especially if you use premix.

Dave
 
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