[jiantao]

As much as I recognize the importance of using high quality fluids and filters, there are very few of either on the market that are actually so bad that you absolutely shouldn't use them. I personally ascribe to the mentality that it's more beneficial to change your oil often with whatever decent quality brand oil and filter than to use the highest quality stuff and then try to squeeze every last mile out of it.

 

[mak474]

If you're talking about the Fram ExtraGuard, the orange one, then sure, but the ToughGuard is an excellent filter and the Ultra is widely considered beyond reproach. Fram also came out with their Endurance filter recently, which is basically the OG Ultra but then they also raised the price on it....a-hoes.

Several YT videos and also various posters that have cut them open on BITOG have experienced lowered quality on the Wix filters, in addition to their fairly abysmal filter efficiency.

Interesting. Good to hear they have stepped up their game. I've all but sorn them off for 20+ years after seeing cars come in with them full of sludge and other issues in the late 90's and early 2000's. We cut quite a few different filters open then and fram typically had the media collapsed so bad it had dis-bonded and the filter wasn't even doing anything. Sounds like Wix has slipped though. I might have to find another brand for the Honda, but my euros get Mann or Hengst.

 

[tyman]

Interesting. Good to hear they have stepped up their game. I've all but sorn them off for 20+ years after seeing cars come in with them full of sludge and other issues in the late 90's and early 2000's. We cut quite a few different filters open then and fram typically had the media collapsed so bad it had dis-bonded and the filter wasn't even doing anything. Sounds like Wix has slipped though. I might have to find another brand for the Honda, but my euros get Mann or Hengst.

I mean, the OG Ultra, which has been around for 15-20 years, was always considered one of the best oil filters out there due to the wire-backed media, high efficiency, and value for cost.

The filters back then could have had other issues such as too long of an OCI as well, instead of a quality issue. The last few years, the only filters to really show any signs of tearing outside of the jobber filters were a bunch of Purolators a couple years ago to the point where they acquired the nickname "Tearolator." 😆🤣

 

[tyman]

As much as I recognize the importance of using high quality fluids and filters, there are very few of either on the market that are actually so bad that you absolutely shouldn't use them. I personally ascribe to the mentality that it's more beneficial to change your oil often with whatever decent quality brand oil and filter than to use the highest quality stuff and then try to squeeze every last mile out of it.

And that goes for everything. I cringe hard when I see posts like, "got 150k out of my stock brakes!" yeesh

 

[mak474]

And that goes for everything. I cringe hard when I see posts like, "got 150k out of my stock brakes!" yeesh

Tearolator haha. True and most were probably getting conventional Pennzoil then at jiffy lube, so they were likely not obeying the OCI. I saw that A LOT.
Yeah, some people will try to stretch every bit of life out of everything. I think my s10 made it to around 180k on its original rears. But they were drums and 98% of its miles from 60k to there were highway miles. I also am not sure if the PO had changed them either.

 

[tyman]

Tearolator haha. True and most were probably getting conventional Pennzoil then at jiffy lube, so they were likely not obeying the OCI. I saw that A LOT.
Yeah, some people will try to stretch every bit of life out of everything. I think my s10 made it to around 180k on its original rears. But they were drums and 98% of its miles from 60k to there were highway miles. I also am not sure if the PO had changed them either.

Yeah, the rears, especially drums can last a long time

 

[mak474]

Yeah, the rears, especially drums can last a long time

Yeah, drums on the rear of a truck are pretty much there for looks and a parking/emergency only lol.
My ody is at 191k. The rears are definitely ready here shortly and I'm monitoring the pad thickness, but when I got it the front rotors, we're warped to hell so I tackled those.
The brake fluid looked like motor oil. 🤢 So I pressure flushed the system from the master. Stops 10x better now. It just never ceases to amaze me how people will blatantly neglect the most important function of a vehicle.

 

[Stinky123]

I'd say, that your oil doesn't look fine. It looks to be a tad on the brown side. It is full, of course. I didn't see, but how many miles are on it?

I have a fleet of cars. I change them all at 5k. For example, every, 200K, 210K, 215K, etc.

AND, I won't put a Fram on my cars. They cheaper Frams are regarded as being cheap. In order to make anything cheap, you have to cut corners.

 

[WiiMaster]

There is a fine line between keeping parts for too long and wasting money changing things that don't need changing.

Using the brakes as an example, if your brakes are good enough to last 150k, why change perfectly good brakes just because some are uncomfortable with the idea of brakes lasting a long time? I could go change my brake rotors right now, but I'd be throwing away perfectly good rotors.

 

[tyman]

There is a fine line between keeping parts for too long and wasting money changing things that don't need changing.

Using the brakes as an example, if your brakes are good enough to last 150k, why change perfectly good brakes just because some are uncomfortable with the idea of brakes lasting a long time? I could go change my brake rotors right now, but I'd be throwing away perfectly good rotors.

If you have good brakes at 150k, especially on a minivan, it means you drive slow af. xD

 

[WiiMaster]

If you have good brakes at 150k, especially on a minivan, it means you drive slow af. xD

Or you bed in your brakes properly and don't drive like a mad man. I don't know if my brakes will make it to 150k, but they've certainly made it this far. And I'm one that has used every part of the tachometer.

 

[egads]

The newer Odysseys use the rear brakes more, so there may be wear a little sooner than one is used to. Us old farts need to learn to stomp & stay so the ABS works as intended.

 

[tyman]

Or you bed in your brakes properly and don't drive like a mad man. I don't know if my brakes will make it to 150k, but they've certainly made it this far. And I'm one that has used every part of the tachometer.

Ick

 

[jeffs3232]

When in doubt, I am religious about changing my oil every 5-6k miles or 5-6 months regardless of what the MIL says. Call me old school, but $33 (I get Pennzoil Platinum) for quality 0w-20 5qt jug and a $7 Genuine OEM Honda filter, and 20 minutes in my driveway for a fresh change is cheap insurance.

 

[egads]

When in doubt, I am religious about changing my oil every 5k miles or 5 months regardless of what the MIL says. Call me old school, but $40 for a 5qt jug and a OEM filter and 20 minutes in my driveway for a fresh change is cheap insurance.

Except you miss the codes for other service required. This advice just wastes oil. Ignore your grandpappy's advise and use the maintenance minder. Religion has nothing to do with it, although I do have faith in changing the transmission fluid every other oil change.

 

[jeffs3232]

Except you miss the codes for other service required. This advice just wastes oil. Ignore your grandpappy's advise and use the maintenance minder. Religion has nothing to do with it, although I do have faith in changing the transmission fluid every other oil change.

To be fair, I don't miss the other codes. It's not rocket science to know frequency of change for major fluids such as brake, PS, transmission, coolant, etc. It's widely known to do the 105k service and what it entails. I do not need a MIL to dictate for me a computer-based schedule. You might call it a waste, but like I said, for me it's cheap insurance and I perform my own maintenance (except for the 105k service.)

It's even better when I get to enjoy servicing my own car while sipping some of that grand "Pappy 15."

I follow this schedule:

• Oil: 5-6k (and rotate tires)
• PS: 30k
• Brake: 30k
• Transmission: 15k
• Coolant: 50-60k
• I throw in a bottle of Lucas Upper Cylinder Treatment in the gas tank every oil change.

Never any issues, but everyone is entitled to do what they want.

 

[jiantao]

+1 - I also ignore codes. I changed timing belt/water pump at 82K, coolant was changed then. Spark plugs done at 84K. Valve adjustment not really needed until 150K+.

Oil and filter every 5-6K. Transmission fluid every 15Kish. Power steering fluid every so often. Brakes, tires, etc. as needed. Doesn't matter what the maintenance minder tells me.

 

[phattyduck]

Except you miss the codes for other service required.

I do a similar schedule - but just reset the oil light when it asks for it (~10% indicated time remaining). I over-maintain fluids anyway... Heck, I did spark plugs at 50k just to see what they looked like.

-Charlie

 

[rmyoder]

When in doubt, I am religious about changing my oil every 5-6k miles or 5-6 months regardless of what the MIL says. Call me old school, but $33 (I get Pennzoil Platinum) for quality 0w-20 5qt jug and a $7 Genuine OEM Honda filter, and 20 minutes in my driveway for a fresh change is cheap insurance.

Call me cheap, but I have yet to spend over $15 on an oil change! If you shop around and wait for sales/rebates, synthetic oil (usually Pennzoil or Castrol) can be found for about $2/qt. Even better if the rebate deal includes a filter.

I usually buy a few jugs whenever i see a deal and currently have lots of jugs, but if your garage space is limited you may not be able to store 20+ jugs of oil...

 

[jeffs3232]

^^^ That's dirt cheap!