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New member here. I have a 2014 EX-L and am about to do my first oil change. I know there are some different threads on these issues but I’m still clear as mud, especially on the crush washers. I wondered if you could help me with the following questions:

1) Does my model use the crush washers with the oil drain plug or one that has a rubber type of washer? I’ve seen a thread where someone said they bought a drain plug from the dealer that came with a rubber type washer vs the aluminum crush washer.

2) What is the hex size of the drain plug? I think I’m finding 17mm online but not 100% sure as there’s often conflicting info on that too.

3) If it’s crush washers, any recommendations on where to get them?

4) The owner’s manual says you WILL need a special wrench for the oil filter available from the dealer. I bought a Mobil filter along with the oil and it doesn’t have many flat edges to grip with. I do have oil filter pliers/channel locks. Do you think that’ll work if I need something to get the old one off? I honestly think the bottom gripping ratchet type wrench would slip like crazy on this Mobil filter. Thinking I’d do better with my oil filter pliers. What do you use?

Thanks for any info.

Steve
 

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I have a 2012 EXL. 17 mm oil drain plug that uses the aluminum crush washers. I buy them in bulk from either Rock Auto or Amazon. I take the oil filter off with my hands, no wrench necessary unless someone put it on there super tight.

If you take the passenger tire off (i rotate the tires every oil change) you have easy access to the filter.

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Thank you. That’s a big help. Most likely I have the crush washers too then. Thanks for confirming the 17mm also. Just haven’t gotten into it and seen it for myself yet.
 

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I have a 2012 EXL. 17 mm oil drain plug that uses the aluminum crush washers. I buy them in bulk from either Rock Auto or Amazon. I take the oil filter off with my hands, no wrench necessary unless someone put it on there super tight.

If you take the passenger tire off (i rotate the tires every oil change) you have easy access to the filter.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Any experience with the Dorman brand on Amazon for those washers?
 

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The oil filter wrench for my Goldwing fits my Odyssey OEM filter perfectly. $12.00 on Amazon
I must be bad but I reuse my washer over and over.
 

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+1 for re-using crush washers. First Ody went 166K on one washer and replacement been using the same one for the last 100K. No runs, no drips, no errors.
 

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I have a 2012 EXL. 17 mm oil drain plug that uses the aluminum crush washers. I buy them in bulk from either Rock Auto or Amazon. I take the oil filter off with my hands, no wrench necessary unless someone put it on there super tight.

If you take the passenger tire off (i rotate the tires every oil change) you have easy access to the filter.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Apparently I'm putting my filter on too tight! I can never get it off without a wrench, even though I hand tighten it when I install. I have several wrenches that fit...the 65/67mm cap wrench from walmart (fits the non-coated OEM filters as well as the coated ones like Fram), an adjustable jaw wrench, a strap wrench, and a curved jaw type wrench. Of these, the easiest to use is the jaw type. Just grab the filter and loosen it with the wrench, then take it off by hand.
152926


And since the OP mentioned it is the first time, be sure to have a relatively thin funnel to reach the fill hole. Or a specialty Honda funnel from OEM Tools. The specialty is about $20 but it is really nice to have a stable funnel when pouring from a 5qt jug.
152927
 

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BTW: I can reach under the car with the front wheels turned to the right and remove the drain plug and filter without lifting the car. I practiced this again flawlessly the other day.
 

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BTW: I can reach under the car with the front wheels turned to the right and remove the drain plug and filter without lifting the car. I practiced this again flawlessly the other day.
Use similar technique, but drive the right front wheel up on the curb, in front of my driveway. Plenty of room to drain.
Any spills, drip harmlessly, on the asphalt road. Also, use a fumoto drain valve. Forget washers forever !
(Actually, in my 50+ years of changing oil, on multiple vehicles, always reused old washer. Never had a problem).
 

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I wonder if changing washers is like the old days of changing the oil every 3,000 miles? It’s just what you do. Or since it’s pretty cheap people don’t care? Just curious.
 

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I wonder if changing washers is like the old days of changing the oil every 3,000 miles? It’s just what you do. Or since it’s pretty cheap people don’t care? Just curious.
That is probably true but a fresh washer increases the likelihood that it seals properly and the oil won't leak past the threads. In real life, the risk is pretty small that a reused washer would fail. I have done it without changing the washer and it worked fine, but I usually replace it just for peace of mind. A 10 pack of washers from amazon is about $5 so the cost is not a factor. Another option is to switch to a reusable washer, and I may go this route after my current pack runs out.

Here is a discussion on the topic in case you are interested:
 

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I do remember the time I had a drip on another vehicle. I tightened it futher and looked the next day and by golly it was still weeping. So I removed the nut, stuck my thumb in the hole while I shook off the old washer and popped on a new one. Fixed with minimal oil loss.
 

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A Fumoto valve installed at your first oil change will make all future oil changes a lot easier:
 

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Any experience with the Dorman brand on Amazon for those washers?
I use Dorman aluminum washers. Good fit. No leaks. No issues.

Dave
 

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I do remember the time I had a drip on another vehicle. I tightened it futher and looked the next day and by golly it was still weeping. So I removed the nut, stuck my thumb in the hole while I shook off the old washer and popped on a new one. Fixed with minimal oil loss.
I know it's instinctive to tighten the drain bolt when it drips, but it should be tightened only to factory spec. If it leaks after that, something else is wrong. Further tightening runs the risk of weakening or stripping the threads, especially in an aluminum oil pan like the Ody has. (Other car might have had a steel oil pan IDK, but someone reading might have missed that detail.)

A new washer every oil change for the life of the van is still far cheaper than a new oil pan.

Dave
 

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Any experience with the Dorman brand on Amazon for those washers?
Not from Amazon but I had a box of Dorman 095-015 washers from RockAuto that I just used the last one on the last oil change. They worked fine. Just bought a pack of these from Amazon that I will use for the next 20 oil changes.

Apparently I'm putting my filter on too tight! I can never get it off without a wrench, even though I hand tighten it when I install.
Do you coat the rubber gasket on the filter with new oil before installing it to keep it from sticking? Mine always come off by hand with very little trouble.

I know it's instinctive to tighten the drain bolt when it drips, but it should be tightened only to factory spec. If it leaks after that, something else is wrong. Further tightening runs the risk of weakening or stripping the threads, especially in an aluminum oil pan like the Ody has. (Other car might have had a steel oil pan IDK, but someone reading might have missed that detail.)

A new washer every oil change for the life of the van is still far cheaper than a new oil pan.

Dave
exactly. When you have a new washer and tighten to spec, the washer takes all the extra stress. Once that washer it completely crushed, you are then putting stress on the threads again. I don't know how many uses you can get out of one before it's no longer effective, but they are so cheap, there's no reason not to use a new one every time.
 

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Do you coat the rubber gasket on the filter with new oil before installing it to keep it from sticking? Mine always come off by hand with very little trouble.
Yes, i always rub some new oil on before I install. I typically err on the "tight side by lying on the ground and turning as tight as possible by hand, so perhaps I am going overboard on this. It's also possible that I am just not getting enough leverage to remove by hand, given that the wheel is still installed (turned far right and front end on jack stands).
 

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Yes, i always rub some new oil on before I install. I typically err on the "tight side by lying on the ground and turning as tight as possible by hand, so perhaps I am going overboard on this. It's also possible that I am just not getting enough leverage to remove by hand, given that the wheel is still installed (turned far right and front end on jack stands).
Yea, you are tightening it more than me. I tighten it up about as tight as I can by hand, then back it off about 1/8 a turn. I basically get it so it's really tight but not as tight as possible.

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