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Yes, i always rub some new oil on before I install. I typically err on the "tight side by lying on the ground and turning as tight as possible by hand, so perhaps I am going overboard on this
That's way too tight. Spin the filter on until it just touches the gasket, then tighten 2/3 to 3/4 of a turn. That's it. It won't leak, especially if you use an OEM filter (they use actual o-rings instead of the squared gaskets of most aftermarket filters).

As for my general oil-change advice:
  • If you are going to DIY regularly, get a Fumoto valve. The new style one fits great (F106SX). You don't need the extra plastic locking tab, it will never come undone by itself.
  • Get a form-a-funnel to keep oil off the subframe when removing the filter.
-Charlie
 

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I had a fumoto on a lowered RSX type-S many years ago with no splash shield. I was always afraid of it hitting something and either opening up, or ripping a hole in the pan, fortunately it never did.

Never got around to putting another one on any other car.. they work well, but only save you about 18 seconds for a normal oil change.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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they work well, but only save you about 18 seconds for a normal oil change.
I do it to avoid spills and have more controlled oil draining. It doesn't save time (I imagine an oil change tech would be annoyed by it, actually). On my 4Runner, I leave a tube attached all the time that routes the draining oil down below the skid plate, keeping things very clean. There is a joy in 'tool-free' oil changes...

I have run them on multiple lowered cars without issue, for a few hundred thousand miles total.

-Charlie
 

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The best thing about the Fumoto valve, besides there being no mess, is the fact that you don't have to worry about stripping the threads and needing washers for the remainder of the time that you have it installed. I have them on all 3 vehicles in our household. I also have the custom-fit filter wrenches from Amsoil, since those are all I use, but I also have this great gripping filter wrench which is incredible for stuck filters:
https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Oil-Filter-Wrench-Auto-Adjustable/dp/B003Y22RDO
 

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I've been using the same OEM washer for the life of the car, and for several cars. Not because the washer is expense, cheap, etc. I just don't see a need to.

The key is here is the keep the washer in the exact position as it came out, so when you tread it back, the groves (that has already been carved) fit exactly, to form that tight seal.

If I was to flip the washer over, the groves would be completely off. And the likelihood of a leak will increase because there is no way the washer could be pressed perfectly for that seal.

So you can use the same washer if you take some care in removing the bolt and the washer together. Wipe them down together, and put it back together.
 

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As for my general oil-change advice:
  • If you are going to DIY regularly, get a Fumoto valve. The new style one fits great (F106SX). You don't need the extra plastic locking tab, it will never come undone by itself.
  • Get a form-a-funnel to keep oil off the subframe when removing the filter.
-Charlie
do you need the adp-106 adapter with the new f106sx valve? Website says ‘may need’
 

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do you need the adp-106 adapter with the new f106sx valve? Website says ‘may need’
I purchased the adapter and didn't need it. So, I'd say you should be fine without it.

-Charlie
 

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One last item to make it less messy. A Form-a-Funnel. Mold it once and it's good forever. Keeps the oil existing the filter when unscrewing it flowing into the pan, not dripping on the frame member.
 

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That's a pretty cool funnel there. Honda makes a deflector specifically for the Odyssey's bad filter placement too:

Nice pic of it in use in this thread:
 

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Man, my tech cracked the filter down last time. I could not get a good angle on it when I changed my oil this time because I had the time. Had to take the right front tire off to get to it. Oh well got it figured out and done.
 
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