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Discussion Starter #1
Did the first oil change yesterday at 3700 miles. Ran in to a couple annoyances.

First, putting the Odyssey on a pair of ramps in the front was much more difficult than other cars I've had. The Odyssey transmission has a tendency to roll backward on inclines if you aren't holding the brake or accelerator just right. Other automatics I've had seem to hold hills much better, even without a foot on either pedal. This made getting it on the ramps a challenge. Instead of creeping to the top, it was more of an all or nothing attempt. Plus, the ramps seemed to slip a lot. Don't know if it is the weight of the van or what, but I never had this problem with these ramps before. Maybe the floor was unusually dirty. Anyway, I got it on the ramps after a few attempts, but I'm going to make sure the frame area behind the tires is higher than the ramps before I do it again. I can see the possibility of overshooting and coming off the front of the ramps.

Once up, access to the drain bolt and filter is very easy. Among the easiest of vehicles I've owned. The filter is so low, you might even be able to get at it from the passenger side without ramps. The filter socket tool I had for our Subaru Outback happened to be the right size for the Odyssey, so removing it was a snap. A small filter wrench would have done it, too. The drain bolt requires a ~17mm socket, and be sure to have a crush washer, too.

Only one other caveat for the Odyssey. Like many cars, when its on front ramps, the oil behind the filter tends to drain on parts of the frame, making a bit of a mess. Better than on our Saturn, though, where it tended to drain on one of the axles and then driped in an area larger than the oil pan I use to catch it.

The Honda filter instructions gave a torque spec, or said to rotate it 7/8 around from initial contact. I could only get it about 5/8 of the way around before it was very tight.

The transmission fluid bolt is also easy access, and also requires a crush washer. Don't know if I'll do an early partial change on the tranny fluid or not.Did one after 1000 miles on our Subaru, and the magnetic drain plug was coated with metal filings, though the fluid itself wasn't too discolored or smelly.
 

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I'm preparing to do mine in about two weeks. We have about 3300 miles on it now. In two weeks we should be around 4K.

I'll be going with Pennzoil as well until a fully synthetic becomes available. I run Mobil 1 exclusively in my SE-R because it's taken to redline daily. I ran it in our MPV because it didn't break down like dino did. The MPV had a major top end oiling problem.

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Jim
'01 GG EX
 

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Actually sounds like an easy oil change. Try it on an Audi A4 where you have to remove an underbody "air management" shield that is quite large and held on by 10 fasteners, or on a Mazda Miata where you can't even get a shoulder under the car!



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Jim
 

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BTW, I still think 5w-30 is just fine and that the 5w-20 is a Honda scam.

How's that for a controversial statement?



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Jim
 

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The thing about ramps--and this is awefully anal of me--is that I wonder if all the oil will drain out without the car being level. Is the plug rearward on the oil pan?

I'd been doing my F150 myself, but I can get under it fine without the ramp. I like doing it myself.

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'01 SS Honda Odyssey EX
'99 F150 XL Supercab
'00 Kawasaki ZR-7
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It is in the back of the pan, so front ramps should do it. Having said that, I noted that I only had to add 4.6 qts with filter to hit the full hole on the dipstick. The manual says 4.7qts.
 

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Please please tell me the manual doesn't call for 4.7 quarts of oil . . what an unecessary pain in the hiney.

Perhaps you can put the other .3 quart in the filter . . I like to fill up the filter as much as I can without spilling when I put it back on to prevent a dry start as much as possible. I'm not sure to what extent this is possible with the Ody, but I can fill up the oil filter for my F150 to about 75% without spilling any when putting the filter on.

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'01 SS Honda Odyssey EX
'99 F150 XL Supercab
'00 Kawasaki ZR-7
 

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Sythetics good in the cold...

It will be a while before my 2004 Odyssey has reaches the
6000 KM (3750Mile) change interval. My daily commute is only
16 miles and I only have 136 miles on it so far...

I have always been a frequent oil changer (3000 miles) and
have only used Mobil 1 5W30 in my previous vehicle (92 Plymouth Voyager).

I am attaching a picture of the valve train on my voyager that
was taken at 120,000 miles when I had to change the valve cover gasket. As you can tell, everything still looked like new
and there was no sludge etc anywhere including the
inside of the valve cover.

With 3000 mile changes I can't really say that it was the synthetic that gave me these results since it would probably look the same
if changed that frequently with a high quality dino oil as well.

But I can say that there was a much better reason to use the synthetic. Since I had an oil pressure gauge on the voyager
you could tell the difference in the winter. When I was still
breaking it in and using dino oil the oil pressure in the winter
(-20 or so) would rise right to the top and take a while to drop
back down to the middle which was the normal range,
With the Mobil 1 5W30 synthetic it only go as high as the middle
indicating it was flowing much better at -20 that the dino oil which is one of its stated advantages.
You could tell the engine was spinning up faster and with much less effort as well (maybe less strain on the starter?)

No for the question..

Has any one on the Toronto area seen Mobil 1 0W20?
I haven't been able to find it yet although it will be a couple of months before I need it so maybe wallmart will carry it by then.

What is the impression of Penzoil 5w20 regular oil should I have
to do the next change with dino oil?
 

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oil change

An easy way to change the oil filter on my 02 ody is to move the steering wheel to the right which gives you easy access the oil filter through the right wheel well. Then just kneel down and twist it off.
 

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You could tell the engine was spinning up faster and with much less effort as well (maybe less strain on the starter?)
Yes definitely, syn oil in a very cold climate saves on the starter as the engine has less resistance to being turned over and on the battery too as the starter current drain is less.
 

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oil change

I have never had to put my 00 or 02 Ody on ramps to drain the oil. I just lien underneath with a 17mm and loosen the bolt and then move the drain pan under the drain and unscrew by hand with synthetic gloves on until the drain plug comes out.
 

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Nice and relaxed oil change

I could probably change it without putting it on the ramps
but I like to crawl under and take a look around for leaks
etc. I also like the fact that it elevates the front of the oil pan
so that more drains out. I usually put it up on the ramps
on the weekend after a short drive. I then pull the drain plug
and come back in a half hour or so to let everything drain out.

So anyone see Mobil 1 0W20 yet? I may have to pick
some up the next tim I hit a US Wallmart
 

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Local WalMarts have Mobil 0W20 in the 1 quart, but not in the 5 quart container here in central Michigan.

This may be Honda heresy, but when I changed my oil, I left off the compression washer. So far, not a drip.
 

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Re: Sythetics good in the cold...

babylon5 said:
It will be a while before my 2004 Odyssey has reaches the
6000 KM (3750Mile) change interval. My daily commute is only
16 miles and I only have 136 miles on it so far...

I have always been a frequent oil changer (3000 miles) and
have only used Mobil 1 5W30 in my previous vehicle (92 Plymouth Voyager).

I am attaching a picture of the valve train on my voyager that
was taken at 120,000 miles when I had to change the valve cover gasket. As you can tell, everything still looked like new
and there was no sludge etc anywhere including the
inside of the valve cover.

With 3000 mile changes I can't really say that it was the synthetic that gave me these results since it would probably look the same
if changed that frequently with a high quality dino oil as well.

But I can say that there was a much better reason to use the synthetic. Since I had an oil pressure gauge on the voyager
you could tell the difference in the winter. When I was still
breaking it in and using dino oil the oil pressure in the winter
(-20 or so) would rise right to the top and take a while to drop
back down to the middle which was the normal range,
With the Mobil 1 5W30 synthetic it only go as high as the middle
indicating it was flowing much better at -20 that the dino oil which is one of its stated advantages.
You could tell the engine was spinning up faster and with much less effort as well (maybe less strain on the starter?)

No for the question..

Has any one on the Toronto area seen Mobil 1 0W20?
I haven't been able to find it yet although it will be a couple of months before I need it so maybe wallmart will carry it by then.

What is the impression of Penzoil 5w20 regular oil should I have
to do the next change with dino oil?
Pretty high tech valve train, isn't it?:D
 

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BJB said:
Local WalMarts have Mobil 0W20 in the 1 quart, but not in the 5 quart container here in central Michigan.

This may be Honda heresy, but when I changed my oil, I left off the compression washer. So far, not a drip.
I would not recommend that others do this.
Honda tells you to use a washer because the outside surface of the oil pan has a sharp corner at the drain hole. There is no chamfer or radius to allow for the radius which exists on the bolt. The bolt head has a radius to the bolt shaft.
If you installed the bolt without a washer, the radius on the bolt was just brought into contact with the oil pan hole. This would crush the oil pan metal (because the bolt is stronger).

I will probably work well the first couple times, but is horrible from a reliability standpoint. It will eventually cause problems.
 

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Just make sure you use a new washer each time. I know of no one (or service tech)that actually uses a torque wrench for oil plugs. Just make it realtively tight.....Life aint that complicated...Ya know.
 

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egads said:
but if you over tighten without a new crush washer, have fun next time.
I agree there..ALWAYS use a new crush washer...only like .48 cents here.
 
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