[2000odyssey3]

I use Mobil 1 in all my vehicles.

Oil weights and brands is almost always a holy war on car forums. I use 0W-20, others use 0W-30... Some swear by Wolf's Head, some by Mobil 1, some Valvoline, Some Penzoil, some Castrol, some Royal Purple, others swear by Amsoil.

I know of some blends that claim 0W-20 but no pure conventional can make the 0W that I know of. I hope this helps.

 

[carguy]

Some things to keep in mind:

1. Vehicle owner manuals are not written in stone and subject to errors. One manual is usually written for the many models of a specific vehicle. hence Ody Lx, Ex, ExL, Se, Touring.

2. Honda is not in the business of making engine oil. They use oil from those they have marketing argreements with. For example, I recall reading in my 4Runner's owner manual a similar statement about Toyota recommending only Toyota "Genuine" motor oil. I asked Customer Service who makes oil with Toyota labels on it because Toyota is not in the business of making oil....Toyota's reply was Esso or Imperial oil.

They want you to pay extra for their own label, using Mobil 1 for example as a subsidiary of Imperial oil is ultiamtely the same as using Toyota genuine oil.

Bottom line, stick with the same viscosity as mfg recommend and choose a brand you trust & can afford.

 

[jbqwik]

Like 2000odyssey3 said, people get fanatical on this topic. There are so many caveats that may apply, it's just hard to give one answer to fit all circumstances.
However... as far as I'm concerned, any major brand synthetic will outperform any conventional oil.
If I get 'flamed' for that statement, so be it; In my forty+ years experience in the power field, I have seen first-hand evidence of this.

 

[Severian]

Like 2000odyssey3 said, people get fanatical on this topic. There are so many caveats that may apply, it's just hard to give one answer to fit all circumstances.
However... as far as I'm concerned, any major brand synthetic will outperform any conventional oil.
If I get 'flamed' for that statement, so be it; In my forty+ years experience in the power field, I have seen first-hand evidence of this.

Agreed.

I highly recommend either Pennzoil Platinum or Mobil 1. Also, Motorcraft Synthetic Blend is an excellent value.

 

[Raistlin]

So the 11 Ody takes 0w-20? I have never owned a vehicle that uses that weight, does living in the Northeast with cold winters and hot summers affect which weight to use?

 

[oddy03]

So the 11 Ody takes 0w-20? I have never owned a vehicle that uses that weight, does living in the Northeast with cold winters and hot summers affect which weight to use?

Yes, OW20 for the 2011 Oddy.

 

[imref]

hey guys - for those of you changing your own, how difficult is it? Can I do without ramps?

 

[Severian]

hey guys - for those of you changing your own, how difficult is it? Can I do without ramps?

I tried to get under my Odyssey last night (I'm 5' 11", 175 lbs.) without getting out the ramps and couldn't do it.

 

[sklingb1]

I believe there was another post regarding the 0W-20 oil. If I remember correctly, it did not matter if you wanted to use a 5W as long as it meets all the certifications listed in the OM.

 

[gatorblue92]

I'm pretty sure it's the same oil as my 09 accord required and I used Mobil 1 and I plan on using the same in the odyssey. Having ramps isn't required if you have a low profile drain pan but it does make things much easier.

 

[bar10dah]

I believe there was another post regarding the 0W-20 oil. If I remember correctly, it did not matter if you wanted to use a 5W as long as it meets all the certifications listed in the OM.

If that was my post, I was wrong. 0W-20 is what Honda recommends for the '11 Ody.

 

[bar10dah]

I'm pretty sure it's the same oil as my 09 accord required and I used Mobil 1 and I plan on using the same in the odyssey. Having ramps isn't required if you have a low profile drain pan but it does make things much easier.

It's not the same. The late model Accords use 5W-20. The '11 Ody 0W-20.

For years, I would buy Mobil 1 by the jug for both my Accord and Ody. Now, I have to buy a jug of 5W-20 and, when they make 'em, a jug of 0W-20.

 

[jrsquonk]

Best price for 0w20 that I've found so far...Valvoline SynPower at Wal-Mart for $6.62/quart. Still expensive as heck, but better than the $12+ I've seen elsewhere.

 

[just_a_man]

Change oil yourself

I tried to get under my Odyssey last night (I'm 5' 11", 175 lbs.) without getting out the ramps and couldn't do it.

So did you manage to do it yourself? And how did you reset the warning light if any?

 

[dvpatel]

And how did you reset the warning light if any?

Try Page # 602 and on in your 2011 owner's manual for the rest procedure.

 

[lsacks]

The lower the first number (the zero in 0W-20) the better. It can't be "too low" for any vehicle. 0W means it pours much more easily when extremely cold than anything with a higher number like 5W or 10W. Since cold starts cause 80% of an engine's wear, the "thinner" it is when started cold the sooner it pressurizes and lubricates. The second number is how "thick" it is when hot. Engine tolerances are designed to work best with a cerain oil viscosity. So if it calls for XW-20, it's best to use close to that to avoid problems caused by oil. The "thinner" the second number the easier it is to "push around", so you use slightly less gas. That's the main reason why most manufacturers went from XW-30 or 40 to XW-20 around 10 years ago. The engines changed to match. All things being equal though, the thicker it is the better it can resist the most extreme issues. But only under the most extreme conditions, like racing, would oil thicker than 20W be necessary. ALL synthetics are more slipery that conventional oils, and most don't need any additives to make them "multi-viscosity". Conventional oils always require additives to make single weight into multi-viscosity, and the wider the range the more additives they need. I read a book about 6 years ago on motor oil that included many tests (like "4-ball wear") of each of the 15 or 20 synthetic oils they compared. At that time, Amsoil's 0W-30 reduced wear, resisted heat, and did many other things slightly better than all the other synthetics. But I'm sure things have changed since then. Any synthetic is better than conventional oil, since all the molecules are the same size. That's the "synthetic" part. And no oil, regardless of cost, can remove or hold all the acids and particles that get in it from combustion a whole lot longer than any other. Some "long-life" oils have extra additives that help, but I don't think it's worth going more than 7,500 miles between changes, even if the oil says it's good for 25,000 miles and costs $10 per quart. I change mine every 3,500. "Clean is good".

 

[techbrute]

"Clean is good".

Yes, but changing synthetic every 3500 miles is a waste. I think you could make a good case for just changing the filter every 3500 miles and then changing the oil every 2-3 filters. I don't see why you'd want to do it more often. You might as well just use conventional oil to save a few bucks.

Another Mobil 1 user here. I'm not saying they are the only one that makes a good oil, it's just what I use.

Costco sells Mobil 1 for around $30 for a 6-quart case, but you might be able to do better elsewhere.

I used to change my own oil, but subtracting the cost of the materials, oil changes cost around $20 or less, and then I don't have to worry about disposing of the used oil.

 

[lsacks]

I'm sure I change my oil more often than necessary, though daily driving in Metro D.C. traffic does require the "heavy duty" schedule. I'm obsessive about keeping my engines as clean and wear-free as possible. If I ever keep a car for 200 - 400K, at least I'll know engine wear or "gunk" will never be an issue, or at least one that could have been prevented. I've been using synthetic oil since 1980 and I've never had an engine problem or even increased oil usage since. Also, the cleaner the oil the lower the tailpipe emissions.

 

[Shazzam]

Some things to keep in mind:

1. Vehicle owner manuals are not written in stone and subject to errors. One manual is usually written for the many models of a specific vehicle. hence Ody Lx, Ex, ExL, Se, Touring.

2. Honda is not in the business of making engine oil. They use oil from those they have marketing argreements with. For example, I recall reading in my 4Runner's owner manual a similar statement about Toyota recommending only Toyota "Genuine" motor oil. I asked Customer Service who makes oil with Toyota labels on it because Toyota is not in the business of making oil....Toyota's reply was Esso or Imperial oil.

They want you to pay extra for their own label, using Mobil 1 for example as a subsidiary of Imperial oil is ultiamtely the same as using Toyota genuine oil.

Bottom line, stick with the same viscosity as mfg recommend and choose a brand you trust & can afford.

As to your point 1 above; don't all of the models have the same engine? So what difference would the direction to use 0W -20 in the engine matter, because the manual applies to different models?