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Discussion Starter #1
2003 Ody EX. The "quick oil change" place I use stripped out the oil pan by over tightening the oil drain plug. At no cost to me, they're going to replace the oil pan. I want to be prepared to address all potential issues up front. Therefore, what do I need to be aware of? Here are some things I can think of. What else should I be prepared for?

Does the engine have to be lifted?
Could any of the engine mounts be damaged during the process?
Could the power steering high-pressure hose be damaged? Other hoses that could be damaged?
Which electrical wires could be damaged?
Could the air intake tubes be damaged?
What else might be damaged (remember - it's 17 years old and has 212,000 miles on it).

Thanks for your help.
 

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I would think you would have to take the exhaust downpipe off that runs under the oil pan. That alone can be a can-of-worms. I think there are 3 nuts/studs on each of the 2 exhaust manifolds and 3 nuts to the catalytic converter. Plus exhaust gaskets. Is there anyone who has replaced the oil pan? I recall that a service person at a Honda dealer said that the oil drain bolt strips out easily because the length of the threads in the oil pan (and drain plug) are short. If you over tighten it - it will strip out.
 

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Is the "oil drain place" doing the work. (or would they let you get a few outside estimates for the work).
Would be nice if you could have your own mechanic, or Dealer do the work. And have the "drain" place pay for it.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The "oil change place" is going to select the mechanic. Personally, I'd like the Honda dealer to do the work. However, my best guess is that "the oil change place" won't agree to this... since they're the one paying the bill.

Regardless of who does the repair, I want to be fully informed of how to properly do it. This way, I can get in writing some of the details/specs for doing it correctly, and some type of post-repair warranty on the repair itself... and things that might be broken while doing the repair (hoses, wires, etc.).
 

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See post #25 by madbusy168 in this thread in which he replaced the oil pan.

Here is a summary of his steps here, although these alone don't convey the effort conveyed in the post:
  • loosen exhaust bolts
  • loosen front engine mount and pass side mount
  • jack up the engine about 6-8 inches
  • wedge the oil pan out
I see plenty of opportunity for collateral damage here, although he doesn't mention that any latent problems developed.

I would certainly want the work done by a shop that specializes in Honda's, not just to do the oil pan replacement properly, but with the experience to fix any problems that may occur after.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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Thanks! Excellent advice from madbusy168 re jacking the engine up 6-8"!!! Otherwise, the oil pickup will be bent!
Found this video
And two cryptic pages about oil pan in service manual. Please keep us updated. Might need to remove oil pan to work on oil pump leak that is increasing.
 

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Thanks! Excellent advice from madbusy168 re jacking the engine up 6-8"!!! Otherwise, the oil pickup will be bent!
I would be very concerned about jacking it up that much. The front and right side mounts will be removed, but the rear engine mount and two transmission mounts on the left side are still there, and could be torn with excessive jacking.

Hopefully the pan can be removed with less displacement of the engine from its normal position.

If it were my own car, and I were doing the work, and the oil pan + gasket were fine, I would fix this by putting in a TimeSert to directly replace the messed up threads.
 

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Just put in a longer threaded drain bolt which will catch on the remaining threads up higher or find another solution on the internet, Re-thread, rubber plug, TimeSert etc
You could also just install a longer bolt that has a drain valve built in so you would never have to remove it again.
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #10
oldskewel - oldskewel makes a good point about (potentially) damaging the rear motor mount and/or transmission mounts. While the video doesn't appear to call for jacking the engine up 6-8 inches, madbusy168 states "6-8 inches." In my mind, this is another reason for justification that a Honda dealer do the work, not just an auto mechanic.

Buffalo4 - A Mercedes drain plug bolt, which is a much longer bolt (vs. the stock bolt), has been used for three years. This bolt is now leaking. Hence, the reason why the "oil change place" is going to replace the oil pan. Meanwhile, I'll investigate TimeSert, rubber plugs, and other associated solutions. This might be a good alternative. Thanks for recommending these.
 

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True, the video says to jack up the engine "just a little bit". However, that could mean 1/4" or 6" depending on the narrator's perspective. Let's say that both agree that the engine has to be raised.

I also agree with oldskewel that other engine mounts could be damaged. Other forum members have said that if the passenger side mount (the one of five that's disconnected for this job) fails, the others will also fail due to the added stress of the loss of support from the passenger side mount.

I think I would also disconnect the front mount so that it's not fighting against the rear mount.
 

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I would think you would have to take the exhaust downpipe off that runs under the oil pan. That alone can be a can-of-worms. I think there are 3 nuts/studs on each of the 2 exhaust manifolds and 3 nuts to the catalytic converter. Plus exhaust gaskets. Is there anyone who has replaced the oil pan? I recall that a service person at a Honda dealer said that the oil drain bolt strips out easily because the length of the threads in the oil pan (and drain plug) are short. If you over tighten it - it will strip out.
 

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2003 Ody EX. The "quick oil change" place I use stripped out the oil pan by over tightening the oil drain plug. At no cost to me, they're going to replace the oil pan. I want to be prepared to address all potential issues up front. Therefore, what do I need to be aware of? Here are some things I can think of. What else should I be prepared for?

Does the engine have to be lifted?
Could any of the engine mounts be damaged during the process?
Could the power steering high-pressure hose be damaged? Other hoses that could be damaged?
Which electrical wires could be damaged?
Could the air intake tubes be damaged?
What else might be damaged (remember - it's 17 years old and has 212,000 miles on it).

Thanks for your help.
I'd take their money and replace the plug with an aftermarket expandable rubber oil plug that they make for this purpose then do the work myself next summer based on the video (link) shown in an earlier reply.
 

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I replaced the oil pan in my '01 Ody at the next oil after I bought it used. It was waaayyy over-tightened by the oil change monkeys. Aluminum doesn't stretch like steel. When you feel the steel bolt yielding in the aluminum that is ripping the threads out. Replace the crush washer each time. Small price to pay instead of new oil pan. I installed a Fumoto on my '16 Ody after the dealer "free" oil changes ran out. Looking forward to a no spill oil change in the future.

I had to replace the oil pan as none of the parts stores locally had a 'helper' plug I could use to fix it temporarily.

I loosened the passenger side top engine mount (the only easy to get to mount) and jacked up the engine about 1/4"-1/2". Pull the dip stick out first. The existing HondaBond has a good hold on the pan. There is no gasket, make sure they use HondaBond or Toyota's modified silicone. If they use Permatex or other parts store junk sealant stuff it will leak in short order. The exhaust was the bear in my case. The nuts bonded to the lugs and had to replace them and buy a cheap tap set to chase the threads. It was not a fun task.

I bought an aftermarket oil pan and it worked fine until I sold the van. Overall, if I did it again with proper tools on a lift I figure about an hour and a half.
 

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I had uninstall/install the pan this summer to remove the oil pump. Raised the engine with passenger mount removed less than an inch. Was a bit tight on the install but worked out. Used Permatex ultra grey for the gasket. Installing a timesert will be easier (if there is appropriate size insert) than replacing the pan.
 

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Just put in a longer threaded drain bolt which will catch on the remaining threads up higher or find another solution on the internet, Re-thread, rubber plug, TimeSert etc
You could also just install a longer bolt that has a drain valve built in so you would never have to remove it again.
Buffalo4
Yes I second the use of a longer drain plug with the built in drain valve, NOT the type with a lever there are more modern ones now (levers can be bumped open accidentally)
 

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I am a bit late in replying, but there is a way cheaper method to repair the oil pan drain hole.
My drain was stripped and I was able to fix it by using an oversize drain plug, that was made to cut a "new" thread into the drain pan.
In actuality, there is sufficient metal available to make a longer thread.
I then carefully "re-threaded" the hole and it is now again OK.

One just has to make sure that the drain plug gets seated by turning the drain plug by hand until the thread "catches"
You do this by carefully first turning CCW until you feel it catch the first thread. Then turn CW until it starts to work its way in on its own with very little finger pressure. Once seated use a good torque wrench to seat the plug and always use a NEW crush washer.

The plug was under 10 dollars at the parts store.
 

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2003 Ody EX. The "quick oil change" place I use stripped out the oil pan by over tightening the oil drain plug. At no cost to me, they're going to replace the oil pan. I want to be prepared to address all potential issues up front. Therefore, what do I need to be aware of? Here are some things I can think of. What else should I be prepared for?
Does the engine have to be lifted?
Could any of the engine mounts be damaged during the process?
Could the power steering high-pressure hose be damaged? Other hoses that could be damaged?
Which electrical wires could be damaged?
Could the air intake tubes be damaged?
What else might be damaged (remember - it's 17 years old and has 212,000 miles on it).
Thanks for your help.
 

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I have owned two transmission shops for years-- recently retired. Here is how you do it. Take the vehicle to a good repair shop. Forget about involving the quick lube. There are self taping oversized drain plugs just for this occasion have the shop install one. They work fine and it takes about 15 minutes. OR drill out the hole and install a helicoil then install a next step up size drain plug. Helicoils work great in aluminum. Do not remove the oil pan it's a waste of time.
 

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I agree with the various options for plug replacement / thread repair / etc. that do not involve oil pan replacement. Above I suggested a TimeSert, which is what I'd do since I have the tools for that. But any of the above alternatives, I think, would be less problematic than the risk of collateral damage from pan replacement.

I'd try to get some monetary or other compensation from the oil change place, and take care of it myself the safer way.
 
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