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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi -first post here. Wife has a 2003 Ody with 98k miles. Took it to the dealer for oil change and tech noted on the ticket to watch for a small leak around the plug. Got it home and for the first time (we bought it new) it dropped oil on the floor (fresh oil)

Took it to the dealer, they said either tap it out ($50) or new pan $375. I told them they damaged it, they need to fix it.

I quit changing my own oil years ago, because they put the plug on so tight I almost could not get it off when I changed it myself.

I think things might get ugly with the service manager tomorrow.

Any comments? Anyone else had a oil pan strip out like that? The stealer says at 8 years old - anything can happen. I say certainly, but not an oil pan.
 

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Not sure about your dealer but I had Walmart strip the drain plug on my accord. Fortunately, I was able to get it out with some vice grips and a screw driver. Literally the threads closest to the hex head were gone when I got it out. I ran a standard size tap in the pan to clean it up and use a good crush washer. The plug can stick a little as I take it out now but at least it comes out and there is no leak.

They make a slightly oversized self tapping plug you may want to try. I got mine at Pep Boys but never used it after the regular size tap cleaned it up well enough.
 

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Honda has a longer drain pan plug on some models, sorry but don't have the part number. As ^^^ mentioned, get a tap and clean the threads. Get a copper washer and snug it to 25-30 ft-lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks - they still have the van. They tried the tapping procedure above but claim it would not work, have to have a pan. I don't want to try to drive it home b/c of concern the plug coming out and ruining the motor. They are putting way more than 25-30 ft/lbs on it. It takes the biggest wrench I have to get it off the few times I changed it myself after they had done it.
 

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I have use the Time Sert repair on two previous Hondas that had gorillas install the drain plug. It works very well, though it is a little expensive the first time you purchase the kit. Way cheaper than having the dealer replace the oil pan though! ;)

http://www.timesert.com/html/drainplug.html
 

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As a mechanic of over 40 years, I have NEVER stripped the threads out of an oil pan! Honda ,as with all manufacturers, have proper torque specs for reinstalling oil pan drain bolts to prevent damaging the pan threads. They also require that a new crush/sealing washer be used at every oil change.
If you have used this dealer for most or all of your oil changes then you have every reason to hold them accountable for the PROPER repair of you van. By this I mean the replacement of your oil pan with new gasket, drain bolt with new washer, and engine oil with labour included at their expense. Do not accept any excuses!
 

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I too have had the same issue my 2005 Odyssey. Dealer service department claims this is fairly normal with the Odyssey oil pans. Waiting to talk to the GM of the dealership, as Honda America (yes, Headquarters) says they can't do anything about it. I have to take it up with the Dealership. Never had that problem with my Nissan. Nissan Headquarters will try to help you, and has helped me. I have done many oil changes on all my cars too, and have never ever seen anything like this.
 

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Reading mjody's reply reminds me that Accord plug is 1/3 more thread the one on my Odyssey as shown on the right below. They both go into the identical oil pans. You may like to try.

 

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Reading mjody's reply reminds me that Accord plug is 1/3 more thread the one on my Odyssey as shown on the right below. They both go into the identical oil pans. You may like to try.

Yes, that's the one. Also, if you buy a thinner copper washer it will easily grab the last threads of the oil pan safely and not fall out. Remember, 29 ft-lbs is not that tight, no need to crank it on.
I can't stress enought to buy a 3/8" torque wrench if you do your own oil changes. Thirty years of doing my own and not one wrecked pan. Any shop that claims otherwise is covering their azz.
 

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I've got a feeling I'm dealing with the same issue. I went to get my van inspected today, and since I had just bought oil to change this weekend anyway, I figured I would have them change it with my oil while I was there. I looked under the van a few hours after I got home to find oil on the ground. Looks like it coming from the washer area. It also looks like they didnt replace the washer when they did the work.

Question, should I go get me a new crush washer from the dealer tomorrow & have them put the new crusher on? Would they be able reuse the oil that they drain since it was brand new??


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Crush washer is not the problem. The crush washer in my van is 7 years old and I re-use them all the time.
The issue is proper loose bolt.
- Loosen the bolt a bit
- Then tighten it a bit and see what happens.
 

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Crush washer is not the problem. The crush washer in my van is 7 years old and I re-use them all the time.
The issue is proper loose bolt.
- Loosen the bolt a bit
- Then tighten it a bit and see what happens.
I should have been more specific. Last time I changed the oil I replaced the bolt and washer (was told it was a good idea to change the washer each time). I didn't replace the washer with a metal washer (ie copper) but rather it came w a plastic typic gimmick. My thinking after reading this thread was replacing the gimmick that came with the plug metal might help me solve the issue since they didn't do it when they changed my oil.

Could the material the crusher is made of make a difference like that?


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The stock washer is aluminum. Personally, I replace them for oil, tranny, and transaxle. Not sure I'd use a plastic one.
 

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Correct drain bolt torque is 29 ft/lb with the aluminum crush washer.

I would replace that bolt and plastic washer with an OEM bolt and washer. The aluminum oil pan is easily damaged and is expensive to replace.

It's certainly okay to catch and then reuse the oil, provided the shop is willing to catch it in a clean container. Usually, they catch the old oil in a large rolling drum apparatus where it's mixed with a bunch of other used oil. They may find it easier to just add new oil instead.
 

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+1 on soft metal washers instead of plastic. When I installed my thermocouple-equipped tranny drain plug to measure tranny sump ATF temperatures, I initially used a plastic washer. It leaked. Same with plastic washers I've tried on other cars' oil drain plugs. Soft metal, like copper or the OEM aluminum, work best. As far as I can tell, the OEM crush washer is supposed to deform noticeably if too much torque is applied to the plug while tightening it.

Even then many oil change shops don't use torque wrenches, and I've read where one shop tightened the oil pan drain plug so much that they flattened out that crush washer. At that point, the washer has nothing left to give to sacrificially allow itself to deform first to prevent pan thread damage.

I've re-used the OEM aluminum crush washers often with no ill effects....and like all the other guys on this thread, I don't tighten the plug without a torque wrench.

OF
 

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Well, it looks like the threads were stripped after all. Honda stealership says they want $520 (plus oil) to replace the pan. The dude said he could work on a "discount" for me if i don't have the money, whatever...... Of course I don't have the money!


Anywho, any thoughts or suggestions? Should I take it somewhere else that might be cheaper?? I knew it was going to be an issue with the threading and was hoping they could just retap it. Guess they can't.....
 

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Well, a genuine OEM oil pan for the 2003 can be had for $115 + shipping, or $164 list price (dealer price I'm guessing). I've seen aftermarket in the $80 range, so the remaining is additional markup and labor. I'd definitely be doing it myself or taking it to a place that DIDN'T strip out the threads in the first place, to have the work done.
 
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