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Anyone experience out of round brake rotors? My 03 Ody keeps getting them as does my 03 Accord V6. This is the only problem I've had with these two cars but it is annoying and the dealer can't seem to fix.
 

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If you mean warped rotors which cause a pulsing or vibrating brake action, it is a common problem caused by heat in combination with over-torqued lug nuts. Never let anyone put your lug nuts on using an air-impact wrench.
 

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A few tips.

1. Never 'turn' rotors. If they are warped, replace them. If just the pads are worn and the rotors aren't warped, just replace pads. I haven't had to do the Ody yet, but new generic rotors often cost only a little more than turning the old ones. (For DIY folks, anyways)

2. Make sure they use a real torque wrench, not an air wrench to put lug nuts on. Not even if they say it has a 'torque stick.'

3. After a long hard brake, don't just stop dead. Inch ahead over the next 30 seconds so the rotors cool more evenly instead of faster outside the pad area. This uneven cooling can cause warping.

4. Take it easy! A slightly longer, gentler brake makes less heat than a sudden hard stop. Heat is the enemy.

5. Don't be a two footed driver! Those guys very often end up dragging the brakes without realizing it.
 

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manualman said:
A few tips.

1. Never 'turn' rotors. If they are warped, replace them. If just the pads are worn and the rotors aren't warped, just replace pads. I haven't had to do the Ody yet, but new generic rotors often cost only a little more than turning the old ones. (For DIY folks, anyways)

I turned the original rotors and drums from my Bronco II at 52k in 1999, and now at 94k there's just a hint of vibration starting in the pedal. So by turning them for 7 bucks apiece I saved a couple of hundred bucks in unnecessary rotor/drum replacement. Rotors for an auto-hub 4WD vehicle can be quite expensive.
 
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Speaking from past experience, turned Honda rotors will warp in no time! You're better off replacing them.
 

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Modern disk brake rotors are designed to be disposable. They put enough meat on them to last the life of a typical set of pads then expect you to replace everything during a brake job.

The price of these disposable rotors has come down dramatically making it cost prohibitive to turn them.

Example, with VCRs costing less than $100 these days, who takes theirs in to a repair shop? I've got a 12 year old 20" RCA TV which I've had repaired twice. I've equalled the purchase price of a new (and better) TV.
 

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The price of these disposable rotors has come down dramatically making it cost prohibitive to turn them
Manchester Honda quotes 1999-04 front rotor at $87.50 for one. San Leandro Honda $86+. I do not see these prices as cost coming down.
At those prices, I hope it is not necessary to replace rotors with every pad change. But sadly, it may be needed sometimes. The cost adds up.

http://www.manhonda.com/ap/index.cfm?Level=9&PG=3&PID=40
 

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They don't list the Odyssey on their website, but try

https://www.autohausaz.com/

They have free shipping and I got Brembo (not drilled, the OEM rotors) for great prices for other Honda models (like $38 each, but this was for an Accord size rotor). They also have offered free shipping, which is a great deal for something as heavy as two brake rotors.

Note that Honda suggests that ALL rotors be turned on the car when new, this is a perennial Honda problem. Indeed, my brand new rotors had a bit of runout (that's the term for this kind of out of round) and vibrate just a little on braking. Sigh, I don't have an on-car brake lathe...
 

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I have an 03 Honda odyssey that I just did a complete brake job on less than a year ago with complete rebuild calipers rotors pads and brake lines. However I developed a severe pulsation, and the last thing I thought it was would be rotors. As I always torque everything and I do it in a star pattern. I replaced numerous parts, but I I finally broke down and bought a new set of rotors and pads. When I took them apart I found out that it was the driver side brake pins namely the lower one that was the problem it was sticking. So I got new boots for the pins, Regreased all the pens and make sure that they move very freely put everything back together and it worked fine. To make sure that that was the issue I took measurements of the rotors and the disc brake pads and the driver side measured nearly identical for the pads and both sides Rotor. For the driver side, which is where I was getting the heavy vibration, there was one pad that was worn significantly more than the other, and the inside portion of the brake rotor was worn significantly more than the outer portion of the rotor. I attribute that to the sticking pin not allowing the caliper to move freely, and when I looked at the brake caliper the piston was a little cocked to one side. So my guess is it may not be an issue of or quality of the rotor or the torque applied. It may be the caliper pin or pins sticking. I would look into that if you haven’t already. Ken

PS I had to edit the post as I talk text most stuff, and it’s funny how it interprets words. When I said the word pulsation it was interpreted as “ Pulse Asian” and when I stated that I torqued my rotors, it picked up that I “ twerked” my rotors! But I posted before I read the post. Thusly, the edit. But, I guess if one wants to “twerk” their rotors, no harm! 😂😂😂
 
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