[celicool]

This is what got you into trouble "cleaned the TB and MAFS " . Removing the throttle body should not do you wrong.

For the price the dealer is going to charge you to do two simple procedures, you could spend the same amount of $$$ or less to get yourself a Foxwell scanner and do them yourself.

PCM reset and Idle relearn sound intimidating enough, but there is nothing to it. You do that within the Honda software which would come with the Foxwell if you select Honda as your choice of brand.

You do the PCM reset first then follow the instruction to do the Idle Relearn--Basically, start the car and let it idle for like 20 minutes. That's it. The hardest part is knowing when to perform these procedures and not the actual parts of doing them.

 

[celicool]

The official website is below, and that is what I would buy from. It comes with 1 car manufacturer of your choice and lifetime software update warranty. I do not know who the seller is on Amazon and whether if it would get the same warranty. I think the NT530 superseded the NT510 sometimes ago so go for the NT530 instead.

Foxwell Diag | Foxwell Official Site | OBD2 Scanner & Diagnostic Tool

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[celicool]

If you have your VCM muzzled, be sure to remove it before performing the procedures. You can put it back afterward when the engine is cold. If you don't know what I am talking about, then you can disregard my comment--you probably don't have muzzler.

 

[celicool]

I do have a VCM muzzler from Verbatim. 7500kms and the ECO mode light has come on for about 1 second the whole time, until the other day it was above freezing by quite a but and it came on for about 10 seconds.

I forgot about that, so I'll make sure to remove for the idle relearn when I do it.

I would leave out the muzzler for both procedures then reconnect it back in afterward. The PCM reset needs it out most. If you were using a high resistor value on your muzzler, here is your chance to step down to a lower value resistor.

 

[celicool]

The lower resistor would now be necessary as it is getting warmer out, right?

That is the general consensus, but I don't think that is necessarily true. For instance, it doesn't explain why I could use the same resistor (82 ohms) for my area where it can be as hot as 105F in the summer and single digit F in the winter.

When it comes to resistor use for any application, you will want to use the lowest resistor value possible for an acceptable result. That means accepting an occasional VCM kicking on when the weather turns cooler/hotter at the beginning of the season.

For this muzzler application, 120 ohms resistor use will eventually result in another code (complaining about temp. not as expected or something like that), and nothing would fix it except a PCM reset.
In a simulator application, I would get a code for "...not within expected time"

There is consequence for using higher resistance more than necessary.