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Here are some photos of the T/C Solenoid screen I had replaced yesterday. As you can see – clogged. I replaced the solenoid and the screen and did not clean and reuse. While in there I replaced the Linear Solenoid as well.

History: starting last winter, on a cold morning with no warmup, I would get a P0780 code on the 1st to 2nd shift. The van would flash the D4 light, the TCS and CEL would come on and would go into “limp mode” (stay in 2nd gear only). The van needed to coast to a stop and ignition turned off then on to get out of “limp mode”. The 1 to 2 shift and the 2 to 1 shift have been a problem for a while. Best to describe as delayed rev then slam to gear. The gear has always shifted but “clunky”, especially when cold.

I recently got this code several times and cleared and went on my way. I finally decided to solve this nuisance by replacing the 2 main solenoids on the top of the transmission.

The P0780 – Mechanical Problem in Hydraulic Control System for T/C Solenoid and Linear Solenoid: Replace both and see if problem returns – otherwise, replace the transmission.

In my limited knowledge of hydraulic shifting of transmissions, I presumed that cold weather thickens ATF, the screens get restricted from clutch debris and cause line pressure to be affected, especially with thick cold ATF. Again, these are just assumptions based on readings here on this site, Hondatech and Acurazine.

Along with our monster of a thread called “Root Cause of Transmission Failure” here on Odyclub, there were others that recommended the cleaning of these screens for these 2 solenoids. Cleaned shift solenoid filter screen fixed problem - Page 2 - AcuraZine Community
Tranny Failure Thread - Page 91 - AcuraZine Community

I had a look at doing this myself but chickened out and let the dealer do the swap of the 2 solenoids. It took them 2 hours labour. That 4th bolt on the battery tray down low, the wire harness in the way of the T/C Solenoid and the far 3rd bolt on the T/C Solenoid was the deciding factor to let them do it in half the time.

Other notes I picked up on the way:

• The bottom rear bolt on the battery tray can stay in and just loosen to lift the tray out. It is slotted, unlike the other 2 bolts. (12mm bolts)
• Easier to remove the bolts on the cables to the tray than releasing the cables.
• Remove the harness on the T/C Solenoid first before removing the 3 bolts. (10 mm) The last bolt towards the firewall is the hardest and should be done last when removing and first when installing. Use tape on this bolt to line up when installing.
• There are 4 tubes under the Linear Solenoid. 3 have filters and one does not which is apparently a vent. The second usually is the most clogged.
• Both these solenoids can be bought as a set to save a bit of $. Part # 28020-P7X-305 $321.43. You will need the gasket for the Linear Solenoid part #28252-PAX-000 $3.17. The T/C Solenoid comes with its gasket.

I’ll update in future posts as I go. I notice a difference already with the 1-2 shift for the better. Not really cold here right now to check for a CEL reoccurrence in the mornings. I am sure the transmission has wear on it at 90K miles given the crud on the filters and I may be looking at a rebuild in the future. But I refuse to throw in the towel yet before I give this latest repair a try. If the time comes, I would seriously think about rebuilding at the tune of $2,400 locally. This van just has so much life left in it at 13 years and hasn’t left us stranded yet. Plus I have this site for info on anything to do with this vehicle so it’s the Devil you know vs. the Devil you don’t adage.

Interesting to note that I have used Magnefine ATF filters for 10 years.
 

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I am somewhat surprised that your dealer is so accommodating given that you purchased the parts yourself and are asking them do this job and they are charging you only two hours of labor for this work. I understand that you are still out for many hundreds but if this works, you will be saving thousands.

Most dealers would refuse to work with customer on this and would insist on replace/rebuild the transmission job.
 

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Yes, I am aware that my local dealer is exceptional and we seem to have a mutual trust. The service manager is also a childhood friend.
 

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In that case, I would not even bother to open the hood myself :) (assuming I have unlimited funds :) (but if that is the case, why am I still driving 1999 Odyssey with over 200K miles :)
 

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Guys, Im having the same problem described in this thread. The van is a 2001 with 180K. It had a remanufactured tranny installed at 105k. Its getting close to end of life but Id like to try cleaning the T/C Solenoid screens to keep it running before giving it a proper burial.

From what I've read it sounds like the throttle body needs to come out, the battery box and finally a wiring harness that blocks access to solenoid bolts.

I've been looking around for a tutorial on how to get at the little bugger, but no luck other than the hints offer by the OP above. Has anyone come across pictures or even a video of this job being done?
 

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Guys, Im having the same problem described in this thread. The van is a 2001 with 180K. It had a remanufactured tranny installed at 105k. Its getting close to end of life but Id like to try cleaning the T/C Solenoid screens to keep it running before giving it a proper burial.

From what I've read it sounds like the throttle body needs to come out, the battery box and finally a wiring harness that blocks access to solenoid bolts.

I've been looking around for a tutorial on how to get at the little bugger, but no luck other than the hints offer by the OP above. Has anyone come across pictures or even a video of this job being done?
I recently took out all 6 solenoids on my 2004. Let me know if you have any specific questions. It's not that big of a deal with the exception of the two solenoid in the front. You need to take out the starter to take out one of the solenoid. The two sets of 28400-P6H-013 (A) and 28500-P6H-013 (B) don't have screen but the tip of the solenoid itself has a screen.

I took out my entire intake air box and battery box to have full access. I still have it all apart as I am waiting for two more solenoids. My screens were all clear but the solenoids didn't seem strong. I've decided to spend a few hundred in replacing all six, new filter and fluid to give it a try. Worse case is non of the new parts work. I will just pull it all out and junk the van. I know some will say get trans rebuild if solenoids are clear and test fine but I want to try it with all new parts first.
 

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Just an update of the P0780 I experienced recently. I got my 04 on CL from someone who work at a transmission shop. He said it was a customer's car who didn't want to fix. He fixed it and sold it to me with 12 months warranty. I use this as my tools and weekend work van for a little bit over a year before I almost got stranded with trans not shifting.

With the P0780 code, I checked all the solenoids and they were clear and fluid was actually not that bad. Even thought the resistance was in range for the solenoids and clicked when I put 12v to it, I didn't like how it clicked (especially having ordered a new solenoid just to compare). I decided to replace all 3 sets (actually 8 if you count them). The process too a bit longer since I wasn't ordering all the parts from same place nor same time. I finally put it all back together today the van is driving again. I did 6 quarts of fluid today and took a few drive around. Still not 100% confident with it yet but it's driving like it was when I got it over a year ago.

Could it be that the solenoids were just weak? I am keeping my fingers crossed. Like to get another 2-3 years (30K miles or so on this van).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I replaced all the solenoids and cost me a lot. Still failed. I was glad to be rid of that transmission (not the van).
 

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I threw about $500 into it so far (6 solenoids and ATF). Not going to rebuilt trans if it's still a problem. Just going to donate the car and find another one in the $3K range.
 

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I threw about $500 into it so far (6 solenoids and ATF). Not going to rebuilt trans if it's still a problem. Just going to donate the car and find another one in the $3K range.
Amen, brother.
 

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Did you guys see the following recent posts that show these solenoids can actually be adjusted with special tool from Sonax? I have not yet tried it, still trying to figure how to get the special adjustment tool ordered here in Ontario, Canada.

http://d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net/uploads/instruction/file/1571/88950-T-IN.pdf?v=1431627989


http://www.odyclub.com/forums/24-1999-2004-odyssey/52345-honda-transmission-problem-root-cause-fix-post1567585.html#post1567585

and

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/24-1999-2004-odyssey/52345-honda-transmission-problem-root-cause-fix-78.html#post1567609
 

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Interesting - hopefully it helps some willing to address the transmission issue further. I wouldn't attempt to adjust these solenoids myself nor have the dealer as well, but maybe a specialized transmission shop would have the adjustment tool and knowledge.
 

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Well if anyone is every interested in playing with the adjustment, I saved all of mine. They are welcome to have it.
 

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Guys, Im having the same problem described in this thread. The van is a 2001 with 180K. It had a remanufactured tranny installed at 105k. Its getting close to end of life but Id like to try cleaning the T/C Solenoid screens to keep it running before giving it a proper burial.

From what I've read it sounds like the throttle body needs to come out, the battery box and finally a wiring harness that blocks access to solenoid bolts.

I've been looking around for a tutorial on how to get at the little bugger, but no luck other than the hints offer by the OP above. Has anyone come across pictures or even a video of this job being done?
Yes there is one on YouTube 2000 honda odyessy
 
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