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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This post is part of the payback I owe you guys for all the help. I hope to make you save money with this how-to-do-it post.
When I encounter this problem. I found a few treads regarding this issue, gathered information and here's the result


Code: P1717
This code it's exclusively related to the transmission range switch (TRS) and nothing else.


Symptoms:
- Odyssey won't start, you don't hear a sound or click when you turn the key. Starter doesn't engage. But was able to start my Ody in neutral. (This is my case)
- P, R, N, D, 2, 1 won't light up.
- Key stays stuck in switch and won't come out.
- Shift lever stuck in Park.


Possible cause:

- TRS needs adjustment
- loose shift cable at the shift lever and the transmission control shaft
- faulty TRS. (My case)


Ok let's start. The easiest solution I can think of is to clear the path to get to the TRS. I took off the driver side wheel and fender mud cover.


20140822_164642.jpg

The red line depicts the transmission is aligned in neutral and the gear cable has been unhooked (
When the lever is in Park both bolts are accessible and don't need to remove the gear cable). Loosen the two 10mm bolts and turn the TRS clockwise or counterclockwise, it only moves less than a 1/4 in so there's nothing you can do to make the problem worse. Tighten th bolts and check inside the cab to see if gear lever is working good. Repeat until it's aligned.

If this didn't work take out your multimeter and check for voltage on the female wire side on terminal 2 and body ground

female connector diagram.jpg

You got voltage? Good!

To check for continuity or resistance on the TRS, is better to take off the part. And here's how.

You need:
- ratchet
- 10mm and 12mm sockets
- 22mm and 6mm wrench (or small crescent)
- flat screwdriver

This diagram should help you.

TRS diagram.jpg

Disconnect the negative battery cable, unplug the connector to the TRS
Remove the pin that holds the (1) selector control lever.

20140822_165041.jpg

You'll need to bend back the tab(s) on the lock washer (2) to remove the 10mm nut and also the lock washer (3) to remove the 22mm nut (5).

Removing the 22mm nut.

diagram 3.jpg


Finally remove the two 10mm bolts and you have the TRS in your hands. Hurray!

20140822_163240.jpg

Now let's check for continuity (resistance) on the TRS male connector

TRS connector.jpg

Follow this chart

Terminal signal connections.jpg

And this is how I did it.

TRS gear section.jpg

You know you are in neutral because there's a line that defines it and the knob clicks when it's on neutral position. For Neutral refer to the signal connections table and check for continuity on terminals 1,2,3 and 6 in any order. Then try to find D by turning the knob a few clicks and check continuity on terminals 5, 6 and 9. And then R... and so on.

What!? No continuity? Time to buy a new TRS for $75+ aftermarket (double or triple at Honda dealer) or tow your van to the nearest dealer and pay $500+ for towing and labor.

Or... you can try what I did and end up with the satisfaction of doing something right and all your green bills in your pocket

The TRS has 5 Phillip head bolts. Remove them and this is what you will find inside

20140822_160536.jpg

The RED arrow points at the terminals with no continuity, the GREEN ones to the ones I cleaned using fine sand paper and small flat screwdriver. The YELLOW points at the rubber seal which I just washed with soap and water and voila!

I closed the TRS and tested for continuity one more time and everything checked out. Put it back in my Ody and my problem was fixed.

Hopefully yours is too.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010 Odyssey P1717 code transmission range switch

I owe a 2007 Honda Odyssey but this thread concerns the 3rd generation of Odyssey problems with the P1717 code regarding the transmission range switch, also called neutral safety switch. 2005 - 2010 Honda Odyssey
 

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Everyone, Just to add a little clarification on the 05-06 Odyssey (Maybe other years too)... The shifter cable is actually on the opposite side of the transmission and not on top of the range selector switch, and there is nothing to disconnect really to get the range selector switch off besides two bolts holding the cover, and two holding the switch to the transmission... Beyond that a great writeup. OP, it may be worth while to post what year your van is.
 

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Great informative post. I just removed, inspected, and cleaned this switch on my wife's 2007 Odyssey and will be ordering a replacement. The dark portions within the contact areas inside the switch are where the plating has worn off leaving bare copper. I scuffed the worn areas and was able to get the switch to read less than 2 ohms from terminal pin 6 (GND) to the terminals indicated in the chart for each position. This is fine and would be good enough if it was my car to drive, but the new OEM switch is not that expensive online and I don't want to go through this again.

I also found that the original part (28900-RYF-013) is obsolete and has been replaced by 28900-RYF-023. I don't know what the difference is. If you want to find it on any Honda part web site, the page it appears on is "Transmission - Automatic", subcategory "AT ATF Pipe", described as "Sensor Assy., Position".
 

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This post is part of the payback I owe you guys for all the help. I hope to make you save money with this how-to-do-it post.
When I encounter this problem. I found a few treads regarding this issue, gathered information and here's the result


Code: P1717
This code it's exclusively related to the transmission range switch (TRS) and nothing else.


Symptoms:
- Odyssey won't start, you don't hear a sound or click when you turn the key. Starter doesn't engage. But was able to start my Ody in neutral. (This is my case)
- P, R, N, D, 2, 1 won't light up.
- Key stays stuck in switch and won't come out.
- Shift lever stuck in Park.


Possible cause:

- TRS needs adjustment
- loose shift cable at the shift lever and the transmission control shaft
- faulty TRS. (My case)


Ok let's start. The easiest solution I can think of is to clear the path to get to the TRS. I took off the driver side wheel and fender mud cover.


View attachment 49625

The red line depicts the transmission is aligned in neutral and the gear cable has been unhooked (
When the lever is in Park both bolts are accessible and don't need to remove the gear cable). Loosen the two 10mm bolts and turn the TRS clockwise or counterclockwise, it only moves less than a 1/4 in so there's nothing you can do to make the problem worse. Tighten th bolts and check inside the cab to see if gear lever is working good. Repeat until it's aligned.

If this didn't work take out your multimeter and check for voltage on the female wire side on terminal 2 and body ground

View attachment 49633

You got voltage? Good!

To check for continuity or resistance on the TRS, is better to take off the part. And here's how.

You need:
- ratchet
- 10mm and 12mm sockets
- 22mm and 6mm wrench (or small crescent)
- flat screwdriver

This diagram should help you.

View attachment 49641

Disconnect the negative battery cable, unplug the connector to the TRS
Remove the pin that holds the (1) selector control lever.

View attachment 49649

You'll need to bend back the tab(s) on the lock washer (2) to remove the 10mm nut and also the lock washer (3) to remove the 22mm nut (5).

Removing the 22mm nut.

View attachment 49577


Finally remove the two 10mm bolts and you have the TRS in your hands. Hurray!

View attachment 49585

Now let's check for continuity (resistance) on the TRS male connector

View attachment 49593

Follow this chart

View attachment 49601

And this is how I did it.

View attachment 49609

You know you are in neutral because there's a line that defines it and the knob clicks when it's on neutral position. For Neutral refer to the signal connections table and check for continuity on terminals 1,2,3 and 6 in any order. Then try to find D by turning the knob a few clicks and check continuity on terminals 5, 6 and 9. And then R... and so on.

What!? No continuity? Time to buy a new TRS for $75+ aftermarket (double or triple at Honda dealer) or tow your van to the nearest dealer and pay $500+ for towing and labor.

Or... you can try what I did and end up with the satisfaction of doing something right and all your green bills in your pocket

The TRS has 5 Phillip head bolts. Remove them and this is what you will find inside

View attachment 49617

The RED arrow points at the terminals with no continuity, the GREEN ones to the ones I cleaned using fine sand paper and small flat screwdriver. The YELLOW points at the rubber seal which I just washed with soap and water and voila!

I closed the TRS and tested for continuity one more time and everything checked out. Put it back in my Ody and my problem was fixed.

Hopefully yours is too.


Thanks for posting back! This will benefit all.
 

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Thanks for the info!

The pinout chart doesn't seem to match what I am seeing for my 2006 Odyssey, is the 2006 different? I assume this information is for a different model, as the pictures are slightly different.

Also, when measuring resistance, I assume I am measuring from the ground pin to the other pins in the chart? What is considered to be too high of a reading? I have one pin that reads 15-20 ohms, the rest (when there is continuity) measure around 2 or 3.
 

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The 2005 and 2006 had a different trans than the 2007 through 2010.

Unfortunately, the original poster did not specify which year Ody he was working on.
 

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What position do you leave the TRS (Transmission Range Switch = Neutral safety switch) when the job is done????????

Since you started out when your gear shift was in P, I am guessing that you must return the TRS shaft back to P before reconnect the shifter cable.

The reason I ask that question is because my 2007-2010 service manual instructs to start out in P then later (after the gear shift cable was disconnected) turn the TRS shaft 2 clicks to go to "N" before replacing with a new TRS which has its default position set to "N" , but it never mentions to return the TRS shaft back to "P".

Common sense would dictate that I would need to either return the TRS shaft back to "P" before reconnecting the shifter cable or I would need to move the gear shifter in the car to "N"
 

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Yeah. Remember, these service manuals are not perfect. Common sense and logic prevails on something like that. If you've ever worked one of their flow charts for troubleshooting you know that they are not always written properly.
 

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Yeah. Remember, these service manuals are not perfect. Common sense and logic prevails on something like that. If you've ever worked one of their flow charts for troubleshooting you know that they are not always written properly.
Thanks John! I am glad you saw that too.
I was not sure if my fill-in-the-blank step was the way to go.
 

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For the next guy/al with P1717, leave the TRS in park when done either servicing it or replacing it. This How-To worked perfectly for my '07. My only caution and of all people I should of known better but all the plastic push pins for the fender well cover will most likely break upon removal rendering them useless even with using the right tool for removal. I'd suggest having suitable replacements on hand. Don't worry about disconnecting the electrical connector with the TRS while still installed. Once you have it unbolted she'll come right off. Other than that it's about a 2 hour project for garage hack like myself. Happy wrench slinging.
 

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Thanks for confirming the "P" position!
For those considering to replace your TRS with a new one, your ody will likely need its shifting cable adjusted afterward. There is noticeable freeplay when mounting the TRS on its two mounting bolts (before fasten it down with its nuts).
For the next guy/al with P1717, leave the TRS in park when done either servicing it or replacing it. This How-To worked perfectly for my '07. My only caution and of all people I should of known better but all the plastic push pins for the fender well cover will most likely break upon removal rendering them useless even with using the right tool for removal. I'd suggest having suitable replacements on hand. Don't worry about disconnecting the electrical connector with the TRS while still installed. Once you have it unbolted she'll come right off. Other than that it's about a 2 hour project for garage hack like myself. Happy wrench slinging.
 

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Thanks for confirming the "P" position!
For those considering to replace your TRS with a new one, your ody will likely need its shifting cable adjusted afterward. There is noticeable freeplay when mounting the TRS on its two mounting bolts (before fasten it down with its nuts).
You shouldn't have to adjust the cable at all. There should be plenty of adjustment in the TRS mounting slots to clock the TRS correctly. When in neutral, clock the TRS such that the pointer is aligned with the line on the TRS housing. Then tighten the mounting bolts.
 

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P1717 on my 07 oddy but it's 12 degrees out. Doesn't seem to affect the drivability of the van so I guess it will wait until I don't have to freeze my butt off fixing it
 

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Great thread. Thanks!

2007 Honda Odyssey EXL
Issue: Van drove fine, check engine light on, D light blinks.
Code: P1717 RVS Switch Circuit Range / Performance

I discovered that you can also access the switch from above, by removing the battery tray. I ended up doing this, because I couldn't figure out how to remove the darn clip. Didn't realize it wasn't a cotter pin, but a simple clip. I remove the battery tray to get a better look at it, and then I realized that you could just access it from the top to get the switch out.

Here is a shot of the well, showing the switch location (green), and the approximate location of the lower two battery tray bolts (red), which are on the inside of the body. The second is a shot of the switch as seen from inside the well, looking towards the front of the car.

View attachment 109417 View attachment 109425

The connector for the switch (green) is removed by swinging the gray handle up and out towards the front of the car. When lifting the handle, it will pull the connector away from the switch:

View attachment 109433

Here is a shot of the battery tray (battery removed). There are two 10mm bolts securing the tray sides to plastic components. You can see one here (green). The red arrow points to the other (and the front of the car). Also, from above, there are also two 12mm bolts securing the tray to the frame. The bolt (green) towards the front of the car is hard to get at. Disconnect the large rubber tube (red arrow) to give yourself more room:

View attachment 109441 View attachment 109449

Here is a shot of the tray top after removal. The green highlights the 12mm bolt holes, and the red highlights the plastic connectors securing nearby wire bundles (4 or 5 if I recall). And an image below looking up showing two places where wire bundles connect on the tray side facing the firewall.

View attachment 109457 View attachment 109465

Images from below showing the bottom tray bolt closest to the rear of the van, and the bolt closest to the front of the van. I had to use a universal joint swivel followed by a 6" extension to get this out. This was awkward to remove. Also, the tray removed.

6b-Tray-Bot.jpg 7-Tray-Bot.jpg 8-Tray-Removed.jpg

TRS from above, red arrow points to front of van. The second shot is the clip halfway out. The green circle shows the portion of the pin that you merely have to lift. Once lifted, the pin just slides out, towards the front of the van. The third image shows the portion of the clip that lifts up (green line).

9-TRS-From-Above.jpg 10-Clip-Halfway.jpg 11-Clip.JPG

Image of the switch, notated with approximate transmission drive settings. The very first nut (the outermost nut) for my van was 12mm, not 10mm. Also shown is the switch removed. And finally, the interior of the switch... several contacts had a coating on them. Testing showed an issue with reverse, no continuity for 8.

12-Switch-Closeup.jpg 13-Switch-Removed.jpg 14-Switch-Dirty.jpg

I gave it a light cleaning with 220 grit sandpaper. I reinstalled everything and tested it... wasn't getting lights for N,D,2,1. So, I loosened the switch up, rotated it slightly, and tested again. Bingo!
 

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Continued... Images from below showing the bottom tray bolt closest to the rear of the van, and the bolt closest to the front of the van. I had to use a universal joint swivel followed by a 6" extension to get this out. This was awkward to remove. Also, the tray removed. 6b-Tray-Bot.jpg 7-Tray-Bot.jpg 8-Tray-Removed.jpg TRS from above, red arrow points to front of van. The second shot is the clip halfway out. The green circle shows the portion of the pin that you merely have to lift. Once lifted, the pin just slides out, towards the front of the van. The third image shows the portion of the clip that lifts up (green line). 9-TRS-From-Above.jpg 10-Clip-Halfway.jpg 11-Clip.JPG Image of the switch, notated with approximate transmission drive settings. The very first nut (the outermost nut) for my van was 12mm, not 10mm. Also shown is the switch removed. And finally, the interior of the switch... several contacts had a coating on them. Testing showed an issue with reverse, no continuity for 8. 12-Switch-Closeup.jpg 13-Switch-Removed.jpg 14-Switch-Dirty.jpg I gave it a light cleaning with 220 grit sandpaper. I reinstalled everything and tested it... wasn't getting lights for N,D,2,1. So, I loosened the switch up, rotated it slightly, and tested again. Bingo!
 
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