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Great thread. Thanks!

2007 Honda Odyssey EXL
Issue: Van drove fine, check engine light on, D light blinks.
Code: P1717 RVS Switch Circuit Range / Performance

I discovered that you can also access the switch from above, by removing the battery tray. I ended up doing this, because I couldn't figure out how to remove the darn clip. Didn't realize it wasn't a cotter pin, but a simple clip. I removed the battery tray to get a better look at it, and then I realized that you could just access it from the top to get the switch out.

Here is a shot of the well, showing the switch location (green), and the approximate location of the lower two battery tray bolts (red), which are on the inside of the body. The second is a shot of the switch as seen from inside the well, looking towards the front of the car.

1-Well.jpg 2-Well-Close.jpg

The connector for the switch (green) is removed by swinging the gray handle up and out towards the front of the car. When lifting the handle, it will pull the connector away from the switch:

3-Clip.jpg

Here is a shot of the battery tray (battery removed). There are two 10mm bolts securing the tray sides to plastic components. You can see one here (green). The red arrow points to the other (and the front of the car). Also, from above, there are also two 12mm bolts securing the tray to the frame. The bolt (green) towards the front of the car is hard to get at. Disconnect the large rubber tube (red arrow) to give yourself more room:

4a-Tray-Top.jpg 4b-Tray-Top.jpg

Here is a shot of the tray top after removal. The green highlights the 12mm bolt holes, and the red highlights the plastic connectors securing nearby wire bundles (4 or 5 if I recall). And an image below looking up showing two places where wire bundles connect on the tray side facing the firewall.

5a-Tray-Top.jpg 6a-Tray-Bot.jpg
 

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Continued... Images from below showing the bottom tray bolt closest to the rear of the van, and the bolt closest to the front of the van. I had to use a universal joint swivel followed by a 6" extension to get this out. This was awkward to remove. Also, the tray removed.

6b-Tray-Bot.jpg 7-Tray-Bot.jpg 8-Tray-Removed.jpg

TRS from above, red arrow points to front of van. The second shot is the clip halfway out. The green circle shows the portion of the pin that you merely have to lift. Once lifted, the pin just slides out, towards the front of the van. The third image shows the portion of the clip that lifts up (green line).

9-TRS-From-Above.jpg 10-Clip-Halfway.jpg 11-Clip.JPG

Image of the switch, notated with approximate transmission drive settings. The very first nut (the outermost nut) for my van was 12mm, not 10mm. Also shown is the switch removed. And finally, the interior of the switch... several contacts had a coating on them. Testing showed an issue with reverse, no continuity for 8.

12-Switch-Closeup.jpg 13-Switch-Removed.jpg 14-Switch-Dirty.jpg

I gave it a light cleaning with 220 grit sandpaper. I reinstalled everything and tested it... wasn't getting lights for N,D,2,1. So, I loosened the switch up, rotated it slightly, and tested again. Bingo!
 

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Neutral Safety Switch Replaced

Thanks for your posts with pictures. It really helped me in every step to replace the switch on my own.
 

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Today, I replaced the switch. Unfortunately all the pics are not available :)nothappy: is the server down?), which posed a big trouble. Anyway, I got all the bolts off then took the battery mount off. I then replaced the switch. However, there seems to be new problems after the repair.
1. N, D1 and D2, indicators are no long lit when shift handle changes to their position. Sometimes if I waggle the handle N could light up;
2. Key stuck after turning off the engine. I get it out by turning the wheels back straight, it was to the left most, don't know if it is related to the switch or repair.

So, I replaced the switch because of this P1717 code with check engine light on. The problem started almost two years ago, but usually it went away by itself. Recently it happened more frequently and once I could not start the car until I shake the shift handle. I also encountered the flashing D symptom. So, I think it is the neutral safety switch and I bought I new one at Adv Auto Parts for $75.

So, did I fixed the problem? Could it be the cable or contact?

When I unscrew the lock nut, the shift axis was turned because I did not hold it hard enough. So, I don't know if the position is really perfectly aligned. But I counted the number of clicks and with knowing the "P" position is at one end, I think I get the right position. Then I aligned the arrow to the marker line, which is supposed to be "N", and I connected the cable.

Now the car drives normally except for the two problems mentioned above. And I confirmed that the car will reverse when shift handle in "R" and will not move when the shift handle in "N". So I think it small chance to be an alignment issue. Then what could it be? Bad electrical cable? Loose shift cable?
 

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Today, I replaced the switch. Unfortunately all the pics are not available :)nothappy: is the server down?), which posed a big trouble. Anyway, I got all the bolts off then took the battery mount off. I then replaced the switch. However, there seems to be new problems after the repair.
1. N, D1 and D2, indicators are no long lit when shift handle changes to their position. Sometimes if I waggle the handle N could light up;
2. Key stuck after turning off the engine. I get it out by turning the wheels back straight, it was to the left most, don't know if it is related to the switch or repair.

So, I replaced the switch because of this P1717 code with check engine light on. The problem started almost two years ago, but usually it went away by itself. Recently it happened more frequently and once I could not start the car until I shake the shift handle. I also encountered the flashing D symptom. So, I think it is the neutral safety switch and I bought I new one at Adv Auto Parts for $75.

So, did I fixed the problem? Could it be the cable or contact?

When I unscrew the lock nut, the shift axis was turned because I did not hold it hard enough. So, I don't know if the position is really perfectly aligned. But I counted the number of clicks and with knowing the "P" position is at one end, I think I get the right position. Then I aligned the arrow to the marker line, which is supposed to be "N", and I connected the cable.

Now the car drives normally except for the two problems mentioned above. And I confirmed that the car will reverse when shift handle in "R" and will not move when the shift handle in "N". So I think it small chance to be an alignment issue. Then what could it be? Bad electrical cable? Loose shift cable?
Two concerns here:
1. Mis-adjusted switch
2. Aftermarket junk parts that are no good right out of the box. Using aftermarket parts just adds a variable because about 50% of them are no good right out of the box.
 

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Today the CEL is back again, which is very frustrating. But I am more inclined to a loose cable, either mechanical or electrical. Because I found that when the key gets stuck or cannot start, the problem will be gone if I shake the shift handle.

I even suspect the switch that I got off is not bad at all! Unfortunately all the pics are gone and I cannot test the continuity of the positions because I don't know the pins! Hope they can fix the server issue soon, or if some one can list the continuity between the pins with numbers.

Meanwhile, why cannot I found the matching electrical cable on sale at honda estore? Does anyone know the part number? Very appreciated.
 

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I second John Clark's comment--you likely need to re-adjust the TRS position again before tighten it down to a fixed position.

While your battery is out, you could temporarily hook up your battery using a jumper cable so you don't have to re-mount your battery + accessories until a correct position is determined.

If all failed, you could just open up the old TRS, brush up the old contact points inside, and mount it back using the old dirt outline.

The reason your shift handle trick works is because the shaking creates a better contact point inside the TRS.
 

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Thanks for the good idea. I also realized that without a battery it is impossible to adjust the TRS position correctly.

What is happening now, I suspect, is: the cable positions are not matching the axle positions. Because I double checked and made sure the arrow being aligned with the indication line on TRS and the axle clicked at that position. But if the cable's positions(i.e. the resting points of P, or N of the shift handle) are not aligned with the axle positions, shifting the handle will result in the axle (and TRS) stopping at not aligned positions.

But since adjusting the cable seems to be more difficult than adjust TRS position, at least I have not found how to do it on this forum, I think I have to adjust TRS. That will probably solve the problem, however, I don't know how critical it is to have the axle (not just TRS) at the prefect positions (where it clicks), if it is the positions mismatch issue -- adjusting TRS means to have the axle to match the shift handle while ideally it should be the handle to match the axle.

I know OEM is better, but I really dont think such a simple part can have 50% failure rate right out of the box. So maybe it is not a TRS issue at all, maybe it is just the steel cable gets loose after age.
 

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I second John Clark's comment--you likely need to re-adjust the TRS position again before tighten it down to a fixed position.

While your battery is out, you could temporarily hook up your battery using a jumper cable so you don't have to re-mount your battery + accessories until a correct position is determined.

If all failed, you could just open up the old TRS, brush up the old contact points inside, and mount it back using the old dirt outline.

The reason your shift handle trick works is because the shaking creates a better contact point inside the TRS.
I did replaced TRS today using a OEM part. It did remove battery tray before so I went with the top access option. Thanks Celicool for the idea of using jump cable. I did connect battery using jump cable to adjust TRS. If not, the N D R would not lit.
 

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Heat Related TRS Issues?

Hi I'm new to OC, but have found useful information here in the past.

I was wondering if anyone has had issues with this Transmission Range Switch that are temperature related? If so, was it the physical position adjustment of the switch or the switch itself that was the problem?

We had 2 or 3 instances on a few hot days (high 80s+) over the past 6 months where we had the starting problem with our 07 Touring. I was able to start it by moving the shifter or putting it in neutral. There were no warning lights triggered in these instances.

Yesterday it was unusually hot for October in Chicagoland with a near record high of 88. I had no problem starting it, but the check engine light came on, the information display said "Check Transmission", and the D on the instrument panel was flashing. I turned it off right away and restarted it. This time the check engine light remained on, but no check transmission message or flashing D. I drove it for a while and later hooked up my code reader which had the P1717 code which I used to find this thread on the forum.

I decided to clear the code, which turned off the check engine light, and drove it a few times last night (where the temperature was in the lower 80s) and a couple of times today (temperature in the 50s) without issue.

I'm just trying to get a better idea because if it's likely I need a new switch I'd rather get it ahead of time before I dig into the project.
 

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Thank you! Used this DIY for my 2007 MDX, best resource found online. Few things that can help future folks trying to do this:

1: The clip for me was the hardest part. Easiest way is to put the clip on the c-clip first, used pliers and opened the clip as far as I can, so the top part of the clip held onto the nipple part and inserted it back in.

2: Before putting back the TRS, make sure the TRS is in park, or which ever gear you left it in, I recommend either Park or Neutral.

The DIY was perfect and I had some issues, but would’ve taken a lot faster if I could figure out how to take the clip out and put it back in.
 

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Great info guys. I haven’t changed out my neutral safety switch yet, because the service manual says to replace lock-washer C when doing this job. Is this necessary? Also, I e searched for this specific lock washer and cannot find it?
 

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Hello,

So I have the two bolts off the nuetral saftey switch, and the pin removed. What is the next step to get the switch off? The outermost bolt seems to be locked in place by a bolt clip of some sort. Do I bend that out of the way? Do I loosen the big bolt attached to the switch?
 

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I was able to get it removed and the new one installed.

When I tested I saw all the lights just fine. Once everyting was buttoned back up and I took it for a drive I noticed the light would go out when switched to neutral. I could wiggle the gear shift and it would light back up. Did I not tighten something tight enough? Thank you.
 
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