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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wanted to share my experience with this code and how I fixed. Our 2012 EX-L threw this code about 6 months ago after my wife drove through some deep water. The van drives OK with the code, and the only impact is that it takes a long time to get gas sometimes since the pump keeps stopping. The inspection is due this month though, so I finally got around to fixing it.

After searching online, I was only able to find a TSB for spiders making webs in the tubes, and few threads where there was no resolution posted.

Since the light turned on right after going through some water, I assumed there was some type of water damage, but it's hard to tell since you can't really see into the canister.

The first thing I did was check the connected tubes/lines for spiders or water, didn't find anything.
Next, I pulled the vent valve out and saw there was moisture on it and moisture in the opening that the valve inserts into. I tried drying the valve out a bit, then cleared the code, but it came right back.

Since there was moisture in both the canister and the valve, I decided to replace both. I thought about just replacing the valve, but didn't want the moisture in the canister to destroy the new valve, then have to buy another valve and canister.

The best price I could find online for both parts new was just under $200 shipped. I was about to buy them, but then checked eBay - there are a bunch of canisters on there for $60-70 that include the vent value and bracket. I bought one that came off a wrecked 2016 Odyssey with only 9k miles for $60 shipped.

I just put the new canister and valve in today. It took about an hour, and only took that long because it is hard to maneuver under the van with it just on jack stands. If I had a lift, it would have taken 20 minutes max.

1. Remove plastic cover by removing 4 10mm bolts
2. Disconnect 2 electrical connectors and 4 tubes/hoses from canister
3. Disconnect canister bracket by removing 3 10mm bolts (the 2 electrical connectors are zip tied to the bracket. make sure you remove that zip tie connector from the bracket before dropping it, otherwise it can pull on the wires)
4. I transferred the bracket from my old canister to the new canister since the 2016 bracket was a little different shape and missing one of the holes for the plastic shield to attach.
5. Connect new canister and bracket to underside of van with 3 10mm bolts
6. Re-connect the 2 electrical connectors and 4 hoses/tubes
7. Re-attach plastic cover with 4 10 mm bolts.
8. Clear fault code

The evap system readiness test is still incomplete since I cleared the fault codes, but I did drive about 25 miles and the light has not turned back on yet. When the code first appeared 6 months back I tried clearing it, and it would come right back within a few minutes of starting the car. The P2422 code now shows up as a historical fault so I'm pretty sure I'm good. Just need to complete a full drive cycle and the let evap test complete to be 100% sure.

Hope this helps if anybody else that see this code, especially if you see the code after driving through water.
 

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I fixed this code on 2008 Accord once, and so that you know, there was a spiders nest inside there!
Bought an updated part number per TSB and all was good.
thanks for sharing your solution though
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yea, I think if the code pops up out of nowhere, then there is a good chance there are spiders in there.

If you see the code right after driving through significant water though like I did, then there is a good chance there is water in the canister and the vent valve.

In the case of spiders, I thought you could just clear out the nest though and not have to replace any parts?
 

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yea, I think if the code pops up out of nowhere, then there is a good chance there are spiders in there.

If you see the code right after driving through significant water though like I did, then there is a good chance there is water in the canister and the vent valve.

In the case of spiders, I thought you could just clear out the nest though and not have to replace any parts?
its been a while, but iirc Honda has redesigned the part to prevent the problem in the future. It was not an expensive part, so I just replaced it, but hypothetically you can just clean the area from the spider web and be good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
its been a while, but iirc Honda has redesigned the part to prevent the problem in the future. It was not an expensive part, so I just replaced it, but hypothetically you can just clean the area from the spider web and be good to go.
Ah that makes sense and maybe Honda used that new part in newer models. That would explain why there is no recent TSB.

Also, the evap readiness tests finally completed on mine and the code did not reappear. It passed state inspection this morning :)
 

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Thanks for this info. My wife also drove through deep water and set the check engine light off. Code indicated emission problem. I replaced the canister and the light and code reset! good to go!
 

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Just wanted to share my experience with this code and how I fixed. Our 2012 EX-L threw this code about 6 months ago after my wife drove through some deep water. The van drives OK with the code, and the only impact is that it takes a long time to get gas sometimes since the pump keeps stopping. The inspection is due this month though, so I finally got around to fixing it.

After searching online, I was only able to find a TSB for spiders making webs in the tubes, and few threads where there was no resolution posted.

Since the light turned on right after going through some water, I assumed there was some type of water damage, but it's hard to tell since you can't really see into the canister.

The first thing I did was check the connected tubes/lines for spiders or water, didn't find anything.
Next, I pulled the vent valve out and saw there was moisture on it and moisture in the opening that the valve inserts into. I tried drying the valve out a bit, then cleared the code, but it came right back.

Since there was moisture in both the canister and the valve, I decided to replace both. I thought about just replacing the valve, but didn't want the moisture in the canister to destroy the new valve, then have to buy another valve and canister.

The best price I could find online for both parts new was just under $200 shipped. I was about to buy them, but then checked eBay - there are a bunch of canisters on there for $60-70 that include the vent value and bracket. I bought one that came off a wrecked 2016 Odyssey with only 9k miles for $60 shipped.

I just put the new canister and valve in today. It took about an hour, and only took that long because it is hard to maneuver under the van with it just on jack stands. If I had a lift, it would have taken 20 minutes max.

1. Remove plastic cover by removing 4 10mm bolts
2. Disconnect 2 electrical connectors and 4 tubes/hoses from canister
3. Disconnect canister bracket by removing 3 10mm bolts (the 2 electrical connectors are zip tied to the bracket. make sure you remove that zip tie connector from the bracket before dropping it, otherwise it can pull on the wires)
4. I transferred the bracket from my old canister to the new canister since the 2016 bracket was a little different shape and missing one of the holes for the plastic shield to attach.
5. Connect new canister and bracket to underside of van with 3 10mm bolts
6. Re-connect the 2 electrical connectors and 4 hoses/tubes
7. Re-attach plastic cover with 4 10 mm bolts.
8. Clear fault code

The evap system readiness test is still incomplete since I cleared the fault codes, but I did drive about 25 miles and the light has not turned back on yet. When the code first appeared 6 months back I tried clearing it, and it would come right back within a few minutes of starting the car. The P2422 code now shows up as a historical fault so I'm pretty sure I'm good. Just need to complete a full drive cycle and the let evap test complete to be 100% sure.

Hope this helps if anybody else that see this code, especially if you see the code after driving through water.
Any chance you have the part numbers that i need? I also have a 2012 EX-L and drove through deep water. Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Any chance you have the part numbers that i need? I also have a 2012 EX-L and drove through deep water. Thank you!
Part # for the canister is 17011-TK8-A01 and vent valve is 17311-SWA-A01.

I got the canister on ebay for about $60 and it still had the vent valve attached. Most of the canisters I saw on ebay were the same way, but check the pics to make sure if you go that route. Unfortunately, I don't see any listings close to $60 anymore though.
 

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Part # for the canister is 17011-TK8-A01 and vent valve is 17311-SWA-A01.

I got the canister on ebay for about $60 and it still had the vent valve attached. Most of the canisters I saw on ebay were the same way, but check the pics to make sure if you go that route. Unfortunately, I don't see any listings close to $60 anymore though.
Thank You! Last question, how do i know if the parts need to be replaced, or just taken apart and clean out any water that got in there?
 

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Following this thread. We just drove through some high water in Houston this past weekend and got the P2422. Trying to figure out if I should do it myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank You! Last question, how do i know if the parts need to be replaced, or just taken apart and clean out any water that got in there?
Not sure if there's a way to tell other than trying it out. I tried drying the valve with no luck, not sure how you could dry the canister out without leaving if off the car for an extended period of time. Our van is driven daily and didn't want to cause any new problems by driving around without the canister on there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I cant tell if this canister includes the valve. How can I tell? Ebay
The valve is still attached in the listed pictures. I circled the area where the vent gets installed and you can see the electrical connector of the valve sticking out where the arrow is.

You might want to confirm with the seller though, since it looks like they have multiple listings using this same image and that may not be the exact part you are getting. They normally just disconnect or cut the hoses and electrical connectors and pull the canister and valve together just like this one though.
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Reporting back - got the canister assembly off a pamsauto.com and was able to rip and replace the unit in 30 min following the video above
 
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