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Have any other owners have had issues with this code? I've already been to the dealer three times to correct the issue but now the light has come on again. This will make it number four. So far it's been your oil is to low, oil sensor replacement, update on the software, what's next....a little irate about this, I love the van but it has me seriously wondering about the quality.
 

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Check these links.

MIL On with DTC P3400 and/or P3497? Try This Quick Test
First
Currently Applies To: ’08–12 Accord V6 with A/T, ’10–12 Crosstour, ’08–10 Odyssey (Touring and EX-L),
’11–12 Odyssey, and ’09–12 Pilot
Got a vehicle with the MIL on and one or both of these DTCs?
• DTC P3400 (VPS stuck off bank 1)
• DTC P3497 (VPS stuck off bank 2)
Follow these steps for fast, easy troubleshooting:
1. Check the engine oil level. Low oil pressure can set these DTCs.
• If the oil level is low, adjust it or replace the oil if needed. Then, follow the procedure in
S/B 11-033, Engine Oil Consumption; MIL May Be On With DTC P3400 and/or P3497.
• If the oil level is OK, go to step 2.
2. Clear the DTC(s), and turn the ignition switch to ON (II) without starting the engine (key on, engine off).
• If the DTC(s) come right back, there’s likely a problem in the rocker arm oil pressure switch circuit. Go to
step 3.
• If the DTC(s) don’t come back, the rocker arm oil pressure switch circuit is probably OK.
Go to step 4.
3. Unplug the rear rocker arm oil pressure switch 1P connector for DTC P3400, or the front rocker arm oil
pressure switch 1P connector for DTC P3497. Go to the PGM-FI Data List, and check the ROCKER ARM OIL
PRESSURE SWITCH signal.
• If the switch signal reads OFF, the wiring is OK. Replace the oil pressure switch. Then, plug in the connector
and make sure the DTC(s) don’t come back.
• If the switch signal reads ON, there’s a problem in the wiring or the PCM. Continue with the normal DTC
troubleshooting in ISIS.
(cont’d)

http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SN/A120300.PDF
=============================

Engine Oil Consumption; MIL May Be On With DTC P3400 and/or P3497
(Supersedes 11-033, dated June 11, 2011, to revise the information marked by the black bars)
REVISION SUMMARY
• The PROBABLE CAUSE was changed.
• A note to the Service Advisor was added.
• Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, the flat
rate time was changed because the MVCI updates
control modules more efficiently.
SYMPTOM
The engine oil level is low on the dipstick, and the MIL
may be on with DTC P3400 and/or P3497 (VPS Stuck
Off Bank 1/Bank 2).
PROBABLE CAUSE
The VCM (variable cylinder management) function may
repeatedly switch on and off during certain light throttle
operation, at cruising speeds, on flat roads. This
frequent switching can contribute to increased oil
consumption. The updated PCM software improves
VCM timing during very light throttle operation which
may reduce oil consumption.
DTCs P3400 and P3497 occur when the oil level drops
to a point where line pressure

http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/A11-033.PDF

good luck
 

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baseball: Excellent post, thank you, thank you, thank you, undoubtedly saving me some headaches at the repair shop.

For anyone that comes across this post with the same problem, my 2 cents with what I did and a couple questions:

My '08 Ody had this P3400 code pop up at around 81k, (first problem ever), so I went to parts store where they pull the code for free, hit Google and found the above excellent post and service bulletin 11-033. Checked the oil which was a qt low, so good lesson here, if you have an Ody with VCM (EX-L or Touring I believe) and the engine light comes on, check your oil level immediately, (5w20). Anyways, it has never burned oil in the past and this was only 1k after an oil change, but I did not check the oil level after the oil change so there is the possibility that it was on the low end to begin with. Anyways, topped it off and called a couple Honda shops to see what they would charge for the software update, (ranged from $70-$140), took the service bulletin and the above post with me, told them exactly what I wanted, and had the software update completed and out the door in under an hour for $70 bucks, (I was happy), I think it really helps when the service techs know you're not some smuck and that you have an idea what the problem is and what you want done. As far as the update, maybe I’m delusional but if you pay really close attention the update did make a very slight noticeable difference, seems smoother and maybe a little more intuitive.

About 1k miles later the code popped up again though, checked the oil, was perfect this time, hadn't burned a drop, took it to the part store, same code, cleared the code (I guess they aren't supposed to do that, so make a friend, my new friend’s name is Cole… ha), and it didn't come back on. If there was really a problem the light would come back on right? Or did clearing the code just ignore the problem?

Thinking about what might have triggered it, the second time the code came on I noticed it after a driving situation where I would have had to either slam on my breaks or the gas... I chose gas. Got me thinking, the first time it came on I noticed it when I parked at work and remembered that on that trip to work there was a yellow light (or really more of a dark dark orange light, not quite red light) that I had chosen the gas over the breaks too. Correlation maybe?

It's been about 200 miles since the code was cleared and no issues, no oil consumption, VCM working normally. I have been avoiding instances of hitting the gas when it’s in VCM or slowing down.
 

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Update: Light came on again, same P3400 code. Followed the above post from 'baseball' and decided to replace the oil pressure sensor, as did 'hotrodminivan'.

Note: RockAuto (where I get everything), and Advance, O'Reillys, AutoZone, and NAPA all had some conflicting information on what the correct sensor was for the 2008, (2009 on up they all pretty much agreed). They listed: PS499, PS539, PS640, PS702, and PS703.

Ordered PS703 from RockAuto as it was the only option listed at the time (they are working on correcting), they have never been wrong in the past and the picture looked the same, so this was the first time, in their defense it was VERY similar, see pic: left is PS703, the right is the one out of the vehicle PS702. Not the threading is different and the PS703 has a slight bevel to it. The plug works in both.
PS703 VS PS702.jpg

Anyways, returned PS703 and ordered PS702 listed under the 2009, it was correct and the light hasn't come back on. When talking with RockAuto we were able to conclude that PS499 and PS702 were synonymous.

EASY TO REPLACE! Do not pay a dealer to change it. All you need is a 24mm deep socket.

Take the black plastic cover off, turning 1/4 counter-clockwise on the two flat head screws, gently pull the cover straight up and off. I wish I would have taken a picture but if you can see in the picture above where the flashlight is pointing, that's where it's at. Simply unplug the old one, no tools required, unscrew it with the 24mm deep socket/rachet, and repeat the steps in reverse. Seriously took me less than 3 minutes from popping the hood to resetting the engine light.

Speaking of which, went to amazon picked this up:
Autel (MaxiScan MS309) OBD-II Code Reader / Scan Tool - Amazon.com

Well worth it, works like a charm, no trips to the part store. There were cheaper ones but if you spent $25 there was free shipping so was able to get a little better one for roughly the same price as a cheaper one with shipping.

Hope this helps anyone with this problem.
 

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Thank you all for posting. I started having this same problem with my 2008 EX-L this week and my mechanic friend scanned the P3400 code last night and said to add oil immediately. I added a quart last night as soon as I got home. I drove to work and back today and when I checked this evening, it was completely dry. I called Honda today to ask about the software and they said my particular VIN# wasn't part of the update but that I could pay $135 for it with no guarantee that it would solve my problem.

I guess I will start with that and see what happens from there.
 

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Hi All,

New to the forum but wanted to mention I had the same problem of the CEL coming on in my 2012 Ody with 85K on it yesterday...so I checked the code and its the DTC P3400 one only. Was not consuming oil, so followed 4Drake's steps and replaced the front rocker arm oil pressure switch ($45CDN from Honda with O-ring) and reset the code and it seems to be working well now. Bit of a pain to clear the permanent DTC doing the Universal Trip Drive but its finally cleared and getting all green light from the scanner! will let you know if any other issues come up...honda dealer was quoting me $300 to replace this (scan, parts, labour etc) and another $150 if the rear switch needed to be replaced to...instead I just had to buy the 24mm deep socket so that it could fit over the existing switch...thanks so much for everyone's help on this forum!! Hoping to learn more and do more by myself (currently a newbie) going forward...
 

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@ hotrodminivan
@chersmom
@ asifh

Your problem is Variable Cylinder Management (VCM) on your engine. P3400 code is VCM trouble code for the bank of cylinders closest to the driver. There are mulitiple threads discussing this piece of engineering nightmare and how to deactivate it and it's associated problems.

You have three choices. Sell the vehicle and don't get another VCM engine powered Honda. Disable VCM and enjoy the ride. Keep taking it to the $tealer $ervice department. They love your $$$.

Wish I had better news for you. But it is what it is.
 

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Just started having this problem on my ody. The only thing is that all the mechanic shops around here tried telling me it can be more than one thing and your looking at thousands for repairs. I looked at a couple of them and told them you guys are crazy I'm getting a second opinion. After taking it to 4 different locations and they all told me different. I forgot that I was member of this forum. So I said let me see if I can find someone with the same issue. So walla I did.

Thanks baseball and 4drake. Going to change that p3400 sensor ASAP.
 

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Meta Data for P3400

After perusing many posts on this subject, one thing jumped out at me: the guy who said he got his code after stomping on the gas pedal to make an amber light. I got my code after hitting the throttle hard also. Honda SB 13-055 talks about high oil pressure at start-up causing a P3400 to be set and their fix is a new oil system bypass spring. I was due for an oil change anyway, so I cleared the code. One oil change, one new filter later, and 100 miles later, no CE light. My guess is that the filter was clogged and causing borderline high pressure in the oiling system, and that high RPM's were enough to push it over the edge and set a code. Time will tell. Honda calls for 0W-20 weight oil for the V6, and I think that it's probably very important to stick to that or something even lighter, like straight 0 or 10 weight. There certainly are other causes of this problem, including faulty sensors and wiring. Fingers crossed. Thanks for reading and look forward to feedback. BTW, I think the guy who says to sell the car or disable the system and put tape over the light is wrong if the vehicle is low mileage. If it's old and tired then maybe, but I like my stuff to work properly.
 

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My wife called me today and said that the check engine light was on. I told her to take it by the local Azone and let them scan it. They did and they got the P3400 code showing. I told her to get the sensor and I would check it out when I got home. I found this article and read thru it. The sensor was $70 so before I put it on, I wanted to make sure it was the sensor. Since there was two sensors and there is a separate code for each, I decided to switch the sensors and re-scan it. If the code changed, then I would know for sure it was the sensor.
So that's what I did, I swapped the front and the back sensor. Then drove back to the local autoparts store (about 10 miles away) and had them scan it again. Still got the P3400 code. Since it did not change, I knew it was NOT the sensor.

Then I thought that since I changed the oil about 5 days ago. I wondered if that could be the problem. I remembered getting 10W-30 simply b/c I grabbed the wrong one and didnt want to go back in the store. I didnt think it would make that much of a difference. So I grabbed 5qts of 5W-20 while I was at the store. Got back home and drained out the old and put in the new 5W-20 oil. Reset the DTC and now check engine light is off. Hopefully it will stay off.

Odd that it had been about 500 miles on the oil change and it just now set a code b/c f this. I guess it is pretty touchy with the oil that is in this engine.

Hope this helps someone else down the road.

Kirk
 

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It's great to see someone troubleshoot something before throwing parts at it. there is one fault with your method though. Most codes require two drive cycles of failure in order to set the check engine light or set a code. So, if the issue was the sensor and you switched it, it's possible that it would take two full drive cycles to set the second code.

The same goes for the original code after resetting the computer. It may take a failure on at least two drive cycles before you'll see the code again. The switching back to the spec oil was the best thing to do. Hopefully, that solves your problem. I've read about the wrong oil causing problems like this so it wouldn't be surprising. If you want to use something besides 5w-20 you could use 5w-30 without any problem but going up to 10w-30 could cause the VTEC problems.

Good work!
 

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John,
I thought about what conditions had to be met for the code to be set. I wasnt sure, so I just left them swapped around. After I changed the oil, I reset the codes by unplugging the battery cable for about 30 minutes. We drove the car about 30 miles last night and she drove it about 100 miles this morning. She was going on another trip today and noticed the check engine light on again. (spot on that it takes two cycles)

The sensors are now swapped, so if it was indeed the sensor the code should now be P3497, since the "bad" sensor is on the other bank. She is taking the van to have the code read again. Hopefully it is now P3497.

If it is still P3400,what else could be the problem. I know it could be the wiring going to the sensor. If the oil pressure was actually low, would the oil light not be on or possibly both P3400 and P3497 would be the codes.

We are about to go on a long trip and I would like to determine if it is actually the switch or something more major.

Thanks
 

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Good news. The code checked out to be P3497.... which now points to the switch on bank 2. Guess its time to replace the switch.

As an aside.... The switch at Azone is #PS370 which cost $60. I called the Honda dealership with the p/n 37240-R70-A04. Cost there is $35.03 and luck would have it, they have one in stock. See Ya.. gotta get there before they close.
 

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That's great news! It's nice when there is a pair of sensors like that that you can swap without spending any money.
 

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i had p3497 which is the rocker arm spool valve stuck open on bank 1. This happened to me as well and sent the van into limp mode. i finally found my spool valve located on the top of the rear cylinder. it was stuck open, i just took a small screwdriver and pushed it back down. has been working fine so far. its now on the muzzler.
 

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@ Grateful Sam:

TSB 13-055 states

SYMPTOM
The MIL comes on with one or more misfire DTC(s) P0301 thru P0304 (Number 1-4 cylinder misfire detected). DTC P3400 (rocker arm oil pressure switch B) and/or P3497 (rocker arm oil pressure switch C) may also be stored.

POSSIBLE CAUSE
During a cold start, the engine oil pump outputs high oil pressure. DTCs P3400 and P3497 are set because of the high oil pressure measured at the VCM spool valve. High oil pressure causes the VCM spool valves to activate, causing cylinders 1 through 4 to go into cylinder cut mode even though the ECU did not activate the VCM spool valve.

CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the relief valve spring.

End of bulletin
********************************************************************************************************
All engine oil filters have a built in by-pass valve to prevent engine oil starvation if the filter element becomes clogged.

You associated the MIL illumination with a high rpm burst, not at cold start up as the bulletin references. The ECU did not simultaneously store a P3497 code during this event. If you are not getting cold start up misfires as the bulletin states, the problem has been mis-diagnosed and your system is NOT functioning properly. Eventually it will rear its ugly head again.

BTW, I stand behind my statement above:
Sell it
or
Disable the VCM with the VCMuzzler
or
Continue to spend valuable time and money at the dealer$hip.
 

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Same problem with an '08 VCM and 97,000 miles: P3497 then P3400. Checked the oil, which I haven't been doing because it's never been low. But now down nearly 4 quarts in 4000 miles! Dodged a bullet on that one. Here are my questions:
For the first time I tried synthetic -- on sale at AutoZone it was cheaper than the cheap stuff. I cannot imagine that mattered? What do you think?
Also, how much oil are y'all consuming with this problem?
Did the software update fix the oil consumption completely?

Thought about taking it to a dealer and asking for a software update, but then figured I'd collect more data. Just changed the oil with Honda's own Synthetic Blend and will be checking the oil like the old days.
 

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Same problem with an '08 VCM and 97,000 miles: P3497 then P3400. Checked the oil, which I haven't been doing because it's never been low. But now down nearly 4 quarts in 4000 miles! Dodged a bullet on that one. Here are my questions:
For the first time I tried synthetic -- on sale at AutoZone it was cheaper than the cheap stuff. I cannot imagine that mattered? What do you think?
Also, how much oil are y'all consuming with this problem?
Did the software update fix the oil consumption completely?

Thought about taking it to a dealer and asking for a software update, but then figured I'd collect more data. Just changed the oil with Honda's own Synthetic Blend and will be checking the oil like the old days.
Your oil consumption is likely due to VCM. The oil pan only holds 4.5 quarts so you were down to half a quart in the pan. Hopefully, you don't have any permanent damage but it's highly likely.

That said, you need to immediately order a VCMuzzler and install it to disable VCM. Unless you have a big leak, it is likely the cause of your oil consumption and it's very possible it will reverse that consumption. Also, if you're using the maintenance minder for oil changes you need to be using synthetic oil.
 

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Thanks for helping out with this one. I'm going to look at the plugs and the cylinder head this morning. Meanwhile, I don't suspect severe engine damage. Back to my original question: when the VCM system problems begin, is it sudden? Is the oil consumption skyrocketing?
 
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