[Buffalo4]

That fuse supplies:
Pass Mulitplex Control Unit
Gauge Assembly
Sliding Doors
Drivers Multiplex Control Unit
PCM
Door Multiplex Control Unit

Anyone know which of the above items is the most likely culprit to be causing the parasitic drain?
I know quite a few people traced that fuse to their parasitic drain, but I haven't found the most likely culprit.
Which would you most likely suspect?
Very hard to trace each circuit, AFAIK. Can't just disconnect each item easily, can I?
Thanks,
Buffalo4
PS: Drains the battery down quite a bit after several days (11.8-11.2v). Ody still starts but I think this is also hard on the alternator. It's been that way for around 10 yrs and the present battery now is 11 mo old. I have been having it changed around every 2 yrs. I don't drive it but around once a week. It is parked in a lot so I cannot connect a battery charger to maintain it. Not much sun either.

 

[John Clark]

Seems like I recall someone discussing the fuel door switch causing battery drains on the gen 3 but I've not messed with one myself. How did you determine your draw is on that fuse?

 

[Buffalo4]

Seems like I recall someone discussing the fuel door switch causing battery drains on the gen 3 but I've not messed with one myself. How did you determine your draw is on that fuse?

I determined it by doing an amperage draw test and then pulling several bigger fuses and then worked down the line to this smaller fuses. After that fuse was pulled, the draw went down to the allowable draw.
I wish I could just easily disconnect each one of the items serviced by that fuse, but I don't know how.
Several others have reported that fuse as being the one that causes their parasitic drain but I have not heard of the solution.
Happy New Year's Eve to you John.
Buffalo4
PS: If I remove that fuse when I park it in the lot, there is no real noticeable battery discharge over several days.

 

[nitely2]

If any of your door locks are not working properly then the multiplex could be the issue. The passenger side kick panel.

Assuming that you tested the rear driver side sliding door lock is not auto locking by itself.

 

[Buffalo4]

If any of your door locks are not working properly then the multiplex could be the issue. The passenger side kick panel.

Assuming that you tested the rear driver side sliding door lock is not auto locking by itself.

The driver's sliding door will open and close with the remote and lock and unlock with the remote if the driver's door is in the unlock position. It will also lock and unlock by using the key in the passenger door regardless if the driver's door is in the locked or unlocked position. All unlocked doors will lock if the driver's door get locked by the button or a key in its lock.
The only door lock that is not working with the remote is the drivers door. I cannot lock or unlock that door with a remote, only with the key or by pulling the lock button up or pushing it down.
With the key in the outside lock of the driver's door, I can lock or unlock all the doors. If I have all the doors unlocked, the remote will not lock any of them. If I put the key in the passenger door lock, it will unlock and lock all the other doors if the driver's door is unlocked. If the driver's door is locked the remote will lock the other doors but not unlock them.
So the remote problem could be in the board behind the passenger fuse box or it might just be the lock motor in the driver's door.
I have had that problem with a parasitic drain even before the driver's door lock/unlock failed with the remote.
Thanks for the reply and welcome to 2021!!
Buffalo4
PS: Anyone ever figure out which of the items on Fuse13 (Passenger side kick space fuse box) caused their drain. Any suggestions on how to find it? Thanks in advance.

 

[John Clark]

What if you unplug the driver's side power window switch/module?

 

[nitely2]

Even if your issue started before the driver door lock failed, I would still check the multiplex which is way easier to remove and inspect for a short than the door lock actuator. Fixing the door lock problem is part of eliminating possible causes of your drain.

Any instrumental lights not lighting? It should not drain but I would fix that too. Idea is you want to put all electrical things into good working condition. Thats how I would find the issue.

 

[Buffalo4]

What if you unplug the driver's side power window switch/module?

I will try that. I do put the windows control rocker arm on the driver's door to the OFF position (starting doing that this early Fall and, it 'seemed' to slow down the drain, but I did not check it with my meter.
So, I will get to that widow switch/module on the driver's door. Is that the one you are talking about?
Thanks,
Buffalo4

 

[Buffalo4]

Even if your issue started before the driver door lock failed, I would still check the multiplex which is way easier to remove and inspect for a short than the door lock actuator. Fixing the door lock problem is part of eliminating possible causes of your drain.

Any instrumental lights not lighting? It should not drain but I would fix that too. Idea is you want to put all electrical things into good working condition. Thats how I would find the issue.

Which multiplex unit do you mean specifically? There are 3 of them listed under that fuse which I put in Post #1.
Replacing that driver's door lock motor is something that is not worth the trouble to me, at least at this time.
And, to fix that circuit board behind the Passenger Fuse Box near the floor is not worth it either, labor wise and location wise, if that is the reason the Driver's door lock won't work with the remote or electrically. That door lock is an inconvenience only and I am the only driver. 🤓
A couple of bulbs on my dash don't work (clock, rear heater control, and fan speed control). Doubt if they could cause any problem with a drain.
Thanks for the reply.
Buffalo

 

[John Clark]

I will try that. I do put the windows control rocker arm on the driver's door to the OFF position (starting doing that this early Fall and, it 'seemed' to slow down the drain, but I did not check it with my meter.
So, I will get to that widow switch/module on the driver's door. Is that the one you are talking about?
Thanks,
Buffalo4

Yes.

 

[nitely2]

Which multiplex unit do you mean specifically? There are 3 of them listed under that fuse which I put in Post #1.
Replacing that driver's door lock motor is something that is not worth the trouble to me, at least at this time.
And, to fix that circuit board behind the Passenger Fuse Box near the floor is not worth it either, labor wise and location wise, if that is the reason the Driver's door lock won't work with the remote or electrically. That door lock is an inconvenience only and I am the only driver. 🤓
A couple of bulbs on my dash don't work (clock, rear heater control, and fan speed control). Doubt if they could cause any problem with a drain.
Thanks for the reply.
Buffalo

I believe the passenger side is known to short and cause issues. Soldering a wire is an easy fix if its burnt. Getting to the part is also easy. Lots of post on it. I checked mine long ago before I dove in to replace all the door lock actuator motors. Not sure but I may have read or experienced a small drain when most of my door lock actuators was not working. My multiplex was fine though. After replacing all of it and the burn out bulbs on the dash the security system seems to work properly also. That is another thing that I discovered when my door locks was not working. Even if I lock all of them manually the system seems to know something is a miss and will not complete its system check. Then it won't alarm if door is opened or engine started. Maybe that can cause a drain for continuously running the system check and not completing. I dunno....But all was fine after fixing it.

 

[Buffalo4]

My horn will beep when I lock it and check with two clicks of the remote.
Thanks for all the ideas John and nitely2. I will disconnect the driver's side multiplex tomorrow after I get back from the store, That way the battery should be well above 12.0 v.
Buffalo4

 

[nitely2]

I believe the passenger side multiplex is the one that controls the drivers door lock. Check ackack post on it.

There is also a link to the other member who soldered the burnt ends with a wire and worked.

 

[Buffalo4]

I disconnected the driver's side multi-plex and the on/off switch yesterday afternoon and will check it again tomorrow to see if there was much drain. I looked this am when it was below freezing temps and it was reading 12.2v but I don't know how full the battery charge was when I turned the engine off (takes awhile for the battery voltage to level off after turning off the engine). I will check it again tomorrow or the next day and see if the voltage is above 12.0v. If so, that would narrow down the parasitic drain culprit. Thanks for that idea, John Clark.
With those two parts disconnected, the horn will not sound with a beep to signify all is locked nor will all the other doors lock when I lock the driver's door like they did earlier. I'm sure it is just because I disconnected those two switches.
I can still lock or unlock the all the other doors and rear hatch (except for the driver's door) with the key in the passenger door or rear hatch, so all that is the same.
Just removing one phillips screw allowed me to easily remove that armrest control. I didn't realize it would be that easy.
Thanks again to all for their ideas.
Buffalo4

 

[Buffalo4]

I believe the passenger side multiplex is the one that controls the drivers door lock. Check ackack post on it.

There is also a link to the other member who soldered the burnt ends with a wire and worked.

I 'think' the item that controls the driver's door lock is behind the fuse box on the passenger side kickspace. I watched a video on someone taking it out and it sure didn't look very easy to do, esp at my age. If I was only 65 or younger, it wouldn't be a problem.
Buffalo4

 

[Buffalo4]

Well, the parasitic drain didn't change with the disconnection of the driver's armrest switches, but, at least that removes one item from that list:
Pass Mulitplex Control Unit
Gauge Assembly
Sliding Doors
Drivers Multiplex Control Unit -- I think this is what I had disconnected.
PCM
Door Multiplex Control Unit -- Not sure of the location on this item.

So, I think it basically leaves the 'Sliding Doors', the PCM and the Pass Multiplex Control Unit as the three Prime Suspects. I suppose it could be the mysterious Door Multiplex Control Unit, whatever that is since it is mentioned in addition to the Pass and Driver's Multiplex Units.
Any suggestions? The Pass Multiplex Control Unit, which I think is in the Pass armrest, might be the simplest one to try.
I think I will have to replace the battery because the really cold weather will be here for a few more months.
I don't have a way to charge the battery unless I remove it and put it in my condo. (I am over 75 and wah wah wah).
If I don't replace the battery, I will at least disconnect the neg cable at night. (Damn, lose my radio presets and have to reset the Driver's window control, computer relearn). sob sob sob). Since my back is hurting I can't just remove that #13 fuse. Wah Wah
Buffalo4

 

[2011.2017.odyssey]

Well, the parasitic drain didn't change with the disconnection of the driver's armrest switches, but, at least that removes one item from that list:
Pass Mulitplex Control Unit
Gauge Assembly
Sliding Doors
Drivers Multiplex Control Unit -- I think this is what I had disconnected.
PCM
Door Multiplex Control Unit -- Not sure of the location on this item.

So, I think it basically leaves the 'Sliding Doors', the PCM and the Pass Multiplex Control Unit as the three Prime Suspects. I suppose it could be the mysterious Door Multiplex Control Unit, whatever that is since it is mentioned in addition to the Pass and Driver's Multiplex Units.
Any suggestions? The Pass Multiplex Control Unit, which I think is in the Pass armrest, might be the simplest one to try.
I think I will have to replace the battery because the really cold weather will be here for a few more months.
I don't have a way to charge the battery unless I remove it and put it in my condo. (I am over 75 and wah wah wah).
If I don't replace the battery, I will at least disconnect the neg cable at night. (Damn, lose my radio presets and have to reset the Driver's window control, computer relearn). sob sob sob). Since my back is hurting I can't just remove that #13 fuse. Wah Wah
Buffalo4

I had a parasitic drain on my 2000 EX, and it was the module for the keyless entry / alarm system.

 

[nitely2]

Buffalo4,

OK, weird thing happened to my 99 late Dec. I got my free battery replacement from Costco - getting close to its 3rd year - After 5-6 days of not driving the van with the new battery, no click - no start, the battery was dead. BTW, no drain issues prior to battery replacement. Jump and charged the new battery for 24 hours. Then I started troubleshooting. Using the parasitic drain test with amp meter, I ended up with fuse 13 as the problematic one. I had .10 - .11 amp or 100 - 110 milliamp drain coming from it. Everything electrical in the van is working as it should. The only thing that I have been having an issue for many years is the sliding door buzz whenever I move the gear out of Park. My fix was just to turn off the sliding door switch on dash and its gone. NO battery drain since forever. I was thinking of checking the entire list of power distribution of fuse 13. But can't see why there would be an issue with any of it except that nagging sliding door buzzer. So instead, I went for the buzzer issue first. Folks here posted that the fix is to simply clean the 10 contact points of door and the door jamb. I decided to use the 220 grit/red sand paper I have and started rubbing clean each one until it was nice and shiny-clean. Both door and jamb points-- 20 contact points each door. I then tested the battery after closing everything, and just like that, no more drain. Dropped to .01-.02 amp or 10-20 milliamp. Perfect.

BTW, I find doing the amp test without ever cutting power is better than just disconnecting the negative cable and reading from there. Another thing, when I disconnect the battery, the van computer resets and the battery drain disappears until the self diagnosis is complete. So I can drive for a short while without the sliding door buzzing. I basically need to drive it until it starts buzzing before I can test it again.

So if you ever have this buzzing sliding door issue also. Try sanding your contact points and maybe that will fix your drain issue. But if your driver door lock actuator is not working, you need to fix that to complete all circuits when the van do its systems check. Good luck.

 

[Buffalo4]

I have been turning my sliding door Master switch to the OFF position, my cabin lights to the OFF position, my Master windows switch to the OFF position and my mirror adj switch to the middle position for the last couple of years, before I turn the Ody off with no success..
Once the weather gets better, I might try disconnecting the Keyless Receiver Unit (located behind the glove box) to see it that helps. I don't have a garage and I am in snow country. I also tried disconnecting all the electrical stuff located in the Driver's side door armrest..
But I really appreciate your ideas and replying.
Thank you,
Buffalo4
PS: Did you know that if you remove the #13 fuse the headlights won't go on unless you turn the ignition ON. That was listed in the things that Fuse#13 did, 😱😅

 

[nitely2]

Try turning on the sliding door switch on dash. Start the car. Shift from park to Drive. Drive your car around, if you hear a buzzing sound at back, then you know you have the issue I am talking about. And the possible solution for it. And possibly your drain.