Honda Odyssey Forum banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi There, I’m hoping someone can help me. My 2006 Honda Odyssey EX has a parasitic battery drain. It’s showing 130mA at rest when I check the negative battery terminal to post connection. I have nailed it down to Fuse 13 in the underhood fuse box. It measures at 90mA when I pull the fuse and measure the current draw. Fuse 13 is a 20amp mini-fuse which protects three things I believe: 1. ignition key switch, brake position pedal switch, 2. Low horn, high horn, and 3. Control block.
I’m not sure where to go from here as to how to find what is causing the drain. Does anyone have any pointers please?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update, I disconnected the brake pedal switch. There was no change in the amp draw of 90mA. So it’s probably not the brake switch?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Another update, just honked the horn - it worked. So... what is the control block?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Is your air conditioning working (do you hear the compressor cycling on/off while A/C is on)? If not, owners have reported a bad compressor-clutch relay (found in the underhood fuse box) as having a parasitic draw - if this sounds like it could be it, best option is to search the forum for info as there will be numerous posts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,799 Posts
Above post is correct. There are two common causes of battery drain: the AC clutch relay and a faulty side door rear latch module.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, I know it’s not the ac clutch, I’ll look into the sliding door modulator and let you know. If I disconnect it, would the drain go away?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,799 Posts
Measure the drain and see if it is 0.4 amp. If it is, it is likely the rear latch on the side door.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, the drain is 0.112 amp total, and when I check fuse 13 itself, the drain is 0.090 amps. The rest is expected normal drain I believe. This is leading me to suppose it’s not the doors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Is your air conditioning working (do you hear the compressor cycling on/off while A/C is on)? If not, owners have reported a bad compressor-clutch relay (found in the underhood fuse box) as having a parasitic draw - if this sounds like it could be it, best option is to search the forum for info as there will be numerous posts.
My AC actually doesn’t cycle when it’s on for some reason. The clutch doesn’t stay engaged though when the van is off... would I still have a parasitic drain? Thanks all for your input so far!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
My AC actually doesn’t cycle when it’s on for some reason. The clutch doesn’t stay engaged though when the van is off... would I still have a parasitic drain? Thanks all for your input so far!
I'll give John Clark credit for the attached doc that he posted recently on another thread...it makes reference to the parasitic draw. Several have made the recommendation to replace with a Mitsuba relay from Honda, instead of another Omron. I recently purchased the part for about $20. As far as troubleshooting this, the video below is one that I had bookmarked.

 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,799 Posts
Ok, the drain is 0.112 amp total, and when I check fuse 13 itself, the drain is 0.090 amps. The rest is expected normal drain I believe. This is leading me to suppose it’s not the doors.
I agree
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,799 Posts
My AC actually doesn’t cycle when it’s on for some reason. The clutch doesn’t stay engaged though when the van is off... would I still have a parasitic drain? Thanks all for your input so far!
Yes. It could be the clutch relay. Do a simple swap to find out for sure. The clutch relay is front and center in the passenger side relay box under the hood. Remove it and temporarily swap in one of the identical relays from the back row (closest to windshield). Whether the relay is good or bad you should buy the new and improved Mitsuba relay.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes. It could be the clutch relay. Do a simple swap to find out for sure. The clutch relay is front and center in the passenger side relay box under the hood. Remove it and temporarily swap in one of the identical relays from the back row (closest to windshield). Whether the relay is good or bad you should buy the new and improved Mitsuba relay.
thanks for the reply, I tried changing the relays, nothing happened. The ac clutch still does not cycle... any other ideas? I will have to get an ac pressure gauge set to check pressures, however when I checked it a couple of years ago the pressures were fine, but still the clutch wasn’t cycling. We’ve been manually switching it on and off since.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I also tested the relays, there is no continuity between pins 1 & 2 when there is no power connected. I have not been able to try it when it was powered yet, will do that later once I get some Alligator clips
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
745 Posts
Check your manual to see what is on fuse 13, then check all those systems. That draw is really not that high, about 3X normal which should be about 40 milliamps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Check your manual to see what is on fuse 13, then check all those systems. That draw is really not that high, about 3X normal which should be about 40 milliamps.
Thanks for the reply. I already did that: 1. ignition key switch, brake position pedal switch, 2. Low horn, high horn, and 3. Control block.
How do you go about checking the ignition key switch?
The horn and brake pedal switches are fine. For the brake pedal switch I disconnected it, and there was no drop in the drain
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the reply. I already did that: 1. ignition key switch, brake position pedal switch, 2. Low horn, high horn, and 3. Control block.
How do you go about checking the ignition key switch?
The horn and brake pedal switches are fine. For the brake pedal switch I disconnected it, and there was no drop in the drain
One question, I have an aftermarket remote start system with alarm installed, would the drain increase with that thing installed?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Update!! So... I’m not very experienced with the electronic side of things. I actually hooked my multimeter up to the posts with clips rather than just sticking them with leads. In the time it took me to go grab something and come back (more than 10 seconds) the reading dropped to 50mA! So now I know the drain is gone. It was draining in the winter, and I believe it’s probably the doors, as they were not latching properly. Thanks for all your help! I’ll refer to other threads for the doors.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top