[esuzuki]

Hello.
I have noticed periodic engine shake/vibration with my 2001 Odyssey (143k) and I would like to ask for a help. I can only feel the vibration when gear is set at neutral or park position after engine is warmed up. I don't feel at start up. Don't feel if gear is engaged in D or R. I am the original owner and didn't notice this issue until recently.
When it happens, engine shakes at every 1 second. I can see engine vibrate under the hood. I don't see RPM surging. I told it to my dealer and they also felt the vibration. But they said computer controls engine and they can't even adjust idle speed.:frown:

Because of prior severe vibration problem (which was fixed with rear motor mount replacement), I developed a habit to put parking brake and then shift to neutral whenever I stop at signal. Like I mentioned, I could keep gear at D position and keep my foot on brake pedal. But my feet started bothering recently, so I want to keep the foot off brake pedal during stop.

Here is a list of problem/maintenance record that may or may not link to the issue.

105k Replaced front & side motor mount, timing belt & water pump
125k Replaced transmission
136k Fixed misfire by replacing #4 ignition coil (I had to drive ~3 miles with 5 cylinders...)
141k Replaced rear motor mount. This fixed severe vibration problem.
143k Replaced front & rear struts/shocks

2 transmission mounts were not replaced yet. According to dealer, those mounts are tougher than other 3 motor mounts and don't think as the cause of the problem.
I wonder if anyone has suggestion...

Thanks

 

[New Dad New Van]

I would suggest a throttle body and Idle Air Control Valve cleaning and replace the spark plugs with OEM NGKs if not already done so at 105K miles.

Also check the power steering switch for a bad connection that can cause idle fluctuations.

Search on any of these words for more info...

 

[esuzuki]

Thank you New Dad New Van,

Spark plugs were replcaed by dealer at 105k, so I believe it's okay.
I did experience PRM surge just once after start up last week. It happend only once and I haven't seen ever since. Looks like sticky valve is suspicious.
I will try cleaning the IAC valve soon.

I will check power steering switch if cleaning IAC valve doesn't help.

Regards,

 

[esuzuki]

Here is an update.

Before challenging IAC and throttle body cleaning by myself, I just replaced PCV valve.
I haven't changed it since I had a car. Old PCV valve had oil residue inside, and it made tiny noise when I shake it. And I did "idle learn procedure" described in Service manual after that.

I wasn't expecting any change, BUT vibration during idling seems to be reduced quite a bit. It's been 1 week after PCV valve change, and often I don't notice it anymore even after warm up.
I will continue to monitor the vibration though.

I bought Seaform and ready to challenge clearning anytime just in case.

P.S.
While browsing Service manual, I found section on how to adjust idle speed. I can't believe the service manager at dealer said they cannot adjust idle speed. :nothappy:

 

[esuzuki]

Hi. Here's another update.

Well, the cyclic vibration came back before Christmas, so I finally cleaned IAC and throttle body with Seaform last weekend when I did oil change. Cleaning made throttle response amazingly better. (What a difference!)
It's been just s few days after that, but the cyclic vibration is still present... It still only happen after engine is warmed up...

One more strange thing I just noticed yesterday. I don't know if it is related to the problem or not. But coolant in the reservior tank is at 1~2 inches above "max" level.
I don't recall seeing that before... I did flush coolant at 105k, but never add coolant. I don't remember seeing such high level.
I will open radiator cap before I go home today and check the fluid level...

I will also check power steering wire next, but my engine is not doing "idle hunting". It's steady ~800 rpm.
I could try putting Seaform into gas tank next time I fill it up.

Is there any other suggestion?
Thanks

 

[New Dad New Van]

Add the EGR valve and port cleaning to your list.

 

[esuzuki]

Thanks again New Dad New Van.

I will try EGR valve and port cleaning after checking power steering wire.
I just had rough start up today 2 times.
I just wonder, if I should go ahead and replace EGR valve in any case. I remember something about extended warrantee for EGR...
I used ODB-II scanner that I have, but there is no error code.

P.S.
No issue with coolant level. Radiator was full last night with reservoir slightly above "max" level.

Thanks

 

[davedrivesody]

***snip*** Because of prior severe vibration problem (which was fixed with rear motor mount replacement), I developed a habit to put parking brake and then shift to neutral whenever I stop at signal. Like I mentioned, I could keep gear at D position and keep my foot on brake pedal. But my feet started bothering recently, so I want to keep the foot off brake pedal during stop.

***snip

Shifting to N at each stop is adding clutch engage and disengage cycles and so is adding heat and wear. I would apply the parking brake but leave the shifter in D. The parking brake should hold the van just the same. Sorry, this doesn't help the vibration problem - just pointing this out in case you hadn't thought about it already.

 

[redmondjp]

Could it possibly be your A/C compressor cycling on that is causing the vibration? Try pressing the button on your HVAC controls to turn the compressor off and see if that makes any difference (it will say "compr off" or something like that in the LCD area (you'd think that I'd remember exactly, but it is my wife's DD and I only drive it on weekends).

 

[esuzuki]

Shifting to N at each stop is adding clutch engage and disengage cycles and so is adding heat and wear. I would apply the parking brake but leave the shifter in D. The parking brake should hold the van just the same. Sorry, this doesn't help the vibration problem - just pointing this out in case you hadn't thought about it already.

I've tried parking brake with transmission in D, but I didn't like it. When I release my foot from brake pedal, the van moves a bit. Parking brake is only applied to the rear wheel and front wheel is still trying to move forward. Some day when parking brake start to fail in that situation, van may hit a car in front. (Think I'm paranoid).
My habit may also come from driving stick shift Civic for many years.

 

[esuzuki]

Could it possibly be your A/C compressor cycling on that is causing the vibration? Try pressing the button on your HVAC controls to turn the compressor off and see if that makes any difference (it will say "compr off" or something like that in the LCD area (you'd think that I'd remember exactly, but it is my wife's DD and I only drive it on weekends).

I've already tried but A/C or fan doesn't make any difference...

 

[sontakke]

I have had similar symptoms i.e. very slight periodic vibration (every half a second) and even after new timing belt and new spark plugs, it has not gone away. It has been there for few years. Except me and when pointed out to my mechanic, no body else would notice it.

One of these days, I am going to put an expensive Snap On scanner on in and see if it can give me misfire count. Who knows, one of the coil could be doing that.

 

[mjody]

mine does that too. Monitored teh data, not misfiring, runs great, good mpg, low emissions. I just chalk it up to engine harmonic vibration.

 

[sontakke]

If it were not for those coin standing up on running engine, we probably would not care!

 

[esuzuki]

Periodic vibration is reduced significantly!!!

I finally had chance to do EGR port & valve cleaning. Oh, what a difference it made! Vibration is reduced significantly!!
I don't feel it 99% of the time. I could feel faint vibration just once in a while if I really pay attention.
It is negligible!
Thank you New Dad and New Van!

I did EGR port cleaning about 2 weeks ago first. When I read TSB for EGR port cleaning, I didn't know why it says to use 8mm drill bit. EGR port on intake manifold looked so small and I wonder how 8mm drill bit would fit.
After cleaning carbon deposit with Seaform, I saw big hole. It clogged A LOT. I took out EGR valve at the same time, but it didn't look as bad as EGR port, so I didn't do anything. But I ripped off EGR valve gasket, so I had to get new one to fix it.
Last weekend, I cleaned EGR valve (was not so bad) and it's port. I used 12v battery to open valve while I cleaned it. Valve cycled few times while 12v was supplied. (Not sure why).
At the end, I reset PCM and did idle learning procedure.


During this investigation, I noticed different issue with my Odyssey.
I kept MPG history since June '2010 but I noticed that MPG dropped from 19MPG to 17 MPG on city right after I replaced ignition coil (May 2011)
I will monitor MPG for a while to see if EGR was the cause or not.

 

[belal]

HI Did you do it by yoruself.. I haev the same problem my car is 4 V and I was thinking is the fuel filter... By the way where can I find the fuel filter..
Thanks

 

[esuzuki]

HI Did you do it by yoruself.. I haev the same problem my car is 4 V and I was thinking is the fuel filter... By the way where can I find the fuel filter..
Thanks

What do you mean by "4 V"?

 

[esuzuki]

I finally had chance to do EGR port & valve cleaning. Oh, what a difference it made! Vibration is reduced significantly!!
I don't feel it 99% of the time. I could feel faint vibration just once in a while if I really pay attention.
It is negligible!

Well, looks like the periodic vibration came back, but I noticed one thing.

I have been hearing clicking noise whenever I opened hood near air cleaner. It sounds like rapid "tatatatatata...".
For a while, I thought it was normal (because I used to hear all the time). But I found the noise source. It is coming from EVAP purge valve.
I decided to unplug connector to the lavel, and it stopped periodic engine shake. Put the connector back in and engine shake came back.

Today, I start engine to check the vavel noise again. But I don't hear the noise from the valve right after start up.
I am thinking to replace the valve, but I have a few questions of the EVAP valve operation.

1. When does the valve supposed to open/close? Does it supposed to rapidly open/close as I heard noise?
2. Is that normal to hear the rapid valve noise?

 

[esuzuki]

I studied service manual on EVAP purge valve operation.
According to the manual, valve operates in duty controlled mode when coolant temp is higher than 147 F (64 degrees C). So it should be closed right after start up (low temp). This matches that I only hear the clicking noise after warm up. The valve might be working fine, but I didn't do vacuum test yet to confirm.

I found this thread in the forum and symptom seems to be very similar. I wonder if EGR valve is the problem or not.
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/9-problems-concerns/130316-hard-starting-rough-idle-misses.html

No CEL yet. It's clean...

One more thing. I noticed that I don't hear "whoosh" sound anymore when I open up gas cap. Could it be a leak somewhere?

 

[esuzuki]

Update. I purchased hand vacuum pump and tested EVAP purge valve that were making noise.
It holds vacuum when it is closed per service manual procedure. I think EVAP valve is OK.

Hunt continues since I have a new toy