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Discussion Starter #1

This is my wife's 2001 Honda Odyssey it has 146,000 miles and has been maintained regularly.

I am accelerating to 2000 rpm and when you hear the engine almost die I have taken my foot of the accelerator. The engine does not stall but recovers to 750-900 rpm at Idle.

I have cleaned the EGR valve, IAC, throttle, replaced the oil pump, water pump, timing belt, drive belt, power steering belt, replaced the oil sending unit, cleaned sludge out of valve train and removed the rocker arm assemblies to clear any block oil passages.

I do smell excessive fuel and I am thinking now a vacuum leak or a air/gas mixture Issue.

Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
 

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holy crap

The really bad noise sounds like you have blown out a spark plug or something (which would also explain the fact that it's missing). The other noise sounds like valvetrain noise...you probably need a valve adjustment.
 

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i would pull the plugs out, and inspect, if that reveal nothing pull valve covers sounds like a valve spring or rocker broke loose, i would definetly stop running it
 

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2011 Odyssey LX, 120k miles
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holy crap
+100

i would pull the plugs out, and inspect, if that reveal nothing pull valve covers sounds like a valve spring or rocker broke loose, i would definetly stop running it
+1

Yes, that is bad, very bad. From just going through a rough running troubleshooting episode, here's my advice, based on what's easy to do and likely to be the problem. I agree with all the advice above. Nice idea to post the video.

Based on what you've already done, it seems like you've already gone in pretty deep, so maybe you've done these. Did the problem occur suddenly? Was it there before you replaced the timing belt?

steps:
pull each of the coils to inspect (broken, stuck, submerged in oil ...) Just need a 6mm allen wrench to do this

pull each of the plugs. Pay attention to how tight they were. Inspect for plug fouling.

Either before or after the remaining steps, a compression test and leakdown test may reveal the problem location.

Remove intake manifold. Check/clean EGR port (follow procedure, use drill bit and brake cleaner to clean it out), unless you also did this when you cleaned the EGR valve. Inspect intake manifold gasket. It's steel, so should be re-usable, but check for cleanliness and distortion of the gasket and manifold + head surfaces.

If you still have not found any obvious things, remove valve covers to inspect for anything obvious.

Do valve adjustment, noting the pre-adjustment clearance.

If still nothing looked broken, you'll have the fuel injectors readily available for removal/cleaning/inspection/rebuild.
 

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Sludge in the valve train? Yikes.

Did you use a stethascope to try to isolate the noise? I agree with above posters that it isn't very good. If I had to venture to guess that is rod knock due to bad connecting rod bearing. Sometimes those can be accessed and replaced from underneath the engine to prevent a rebuild. If you change the oil and see brass colored flakes - that is it. BTW, that would not show in a compression test at all.
 

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Sounds like it's skipping on more than 1 cylinder. I'd go with what Oldskewel mentions especially pulling a plug wire at a time to see if it changes, obviously it should get worse when you pull one. Next is compression test but the engine sounds like no spark in at least one cylinder so those ones now sound like air compressors which they basically are if no spark. Keep us posted on what you find because I'm curious.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I had the spark plugs out when I change the TB. They looked okay, some a little ashen and others with a spot of oil/sludge but none of them gunked up. I did pull the manifold and clean out the EGR hole with the drill bit but may be the EGR valve is shot, I don't know at this point.

The engine noise was there before I changed the timing belt. I changed the TB and water pump because I was replacing the oil pump. the wife said that the oil light had been flashing on and off occasionally. After removing the valve covers and oil pan screen, I decided to just bit the bullet and replace the oil pump to resolve the oil light issue. I didn't solve the problem, it starts flashing after the car warms up, in about 5 minutes. I too am worried about rod knock. Are the bearings accessible from below/above the oil pan?
 

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Oh, you're the one with the oil pressure issues. That makes me wonder if something major is bad which is limiting oil pressure and allowing it to dump back into the pan. Compression test that beast, some auto parts stores let you borrow tools. You may be in for a new engine, at least they are plentiful.
 

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after reading the above comments, im almost willing to bet your engine is toast, but once again you need to do a compression test to determine, and if you have spun a rod bearing you should just look for a new/used motor. Once a bearing has spun the rod will ruin the crank. a new bearing will not work/last
 

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Discussion Starter #10
teainsliq

Thank you for your post.......There maybe some good information here but your post is unreadable to this lay person. Perhaps a re-post after a translation. Please try again.
 

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If you were having oil pressure issues this all makes sense. Connecting rod bearings go from over revving and lack of oil / oil pressure. I would take it to a mechanic to verify. My guess is your easiest outcome is a used engine. Like the poster mentioned above, they should be plentiful.
 

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... I did pull the manifold and clean out the EGR hole with the drill bit but may be the EGR valve is shot, I don't know at this point....
It does not sound like the EGR valve is the problem, but FYI, there is a fairly detailed (like 10 steps) troubleshooting procedure for the valve itself in the service manual.

I'm with the ~consensus that the most likely problem is something internal that resulted from the sludge problem you had.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the info...I adjusted the valves today and replaced the spark plugs and it does sound better. I did have fuel on the intake manifold and do believe now that I need to check the fuel injectors. Any other ideas would be welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I had to make 12 adjustments...The intake are supposed to be .008-.009 and the exhaust .011-.013. The intakes were mostly about .013-.015, I had two that were bigger than .026, so adjustment was needed. The exhaust was better, I used .012 and had several in the .016 range.

There is still a rumbling noise, not as loud but still there and still some lifter noise. I don't think the valves are getting enough oil to them, all be it a lot more than was getting up there before.
 

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The specific noise I'm concerned about is the low frequency "knocking" typical of rod bearing defect/wear. Has that dissapeared?

Or could you upload another Youtube video of how it sounds now?

Your sludge and low pressure oil pressure scenario pointed toward bearing wear. And with the oil pump replacement NOT solving the problem, it reinforces the original guess.

Rod bearing noise is most noticeable at idle but if you rev it up and it continues, you probably have serious wear and tear. The way to see is remove the oil pan and inspect for excessive movement. And look at the oil drained from beneath.

If you find a loose rod, just remove the cap and look at the bearing, then inspect the crank journal for any gouges.

What I'm concerned about is the sludge accumulation originally. I can't recall hearing of any other case with the Gen 2's on these forum.
 

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Im begining to wonder if your starting to waste your time on this engine, if you know a mechanic locally have them come by and listen, you have spent a lot of time and money that is most likely going to be a waste if its a rod bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have to wait for my daughter to get home to post another recording, what can I say....I did just complete the dry compression test and in cylinders 1,2,3,4, and 6 I had between 150 and 160 but I had zero (0) in the number five cylinder. I am pretty sure that zero is not good but that's all I know. Any thoughts?
 

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Did this all start with a timing belt change? Good chance of a bent valve in the cylander with the zero compression.
 
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