Honda Odyssey Forum banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just replaced my rear brakes from AutoZone. They lasted 58k miles with zero issues, and I got the new set for free.

My kids told me they had started hearing a noise "like a fidget spinner" under their seat. I rolled down the window and heard squealing from the back brakes that went away when I applied the brakes, so I'm assuming it's the brakes. A quick check of my maintenance log showed 58,000 miles had elapsed since I did the rear brakes! Lucky for me, I bought the lifetime warranty brakes at AutoZone, the Duralast Gold, part number DG1088. I went to the AutoZone site, pulled up my purchase history to 2017, and searched my purchases from the same month when I last did the rear brakes, and bam, I found the exact order where I purchased the brakes. A quick search on the site confirmed it was a lifetime warranty part, just as I had notated in my notes.

I jacked up the van and pulled off the brakes. The passenger side had worn down all the way to the indicator bar. The driver side was nearly there, too. I took all four pads to AutoZone, and they swapped them out for free with no questions asked whatsoever. All they wanted to keep was the box, so I took out the new pads and put the old pads in the box. No credit card, no refund, just an even swap, it was quick.

While taking off the van though I did have two hiccups when two lug stud/nuts snapped off. It was one on each rear wheel. The last time it happened was the front wheels, so maybe they're just getting worn out with multiple tire changes, rotations, who knows (yes, I use a torque wrench). This has happened several times over my 170,000 miles, so I keep spares in the glove box. My local O'Reilly's is the only store that keeps them in stock, and here are the part numbers and prices:

new wheel nut - from O'Reilly's, part # 611-314, $3.50 - Dorman M14-1.5 threat 22mm nut
new wheel stud - from O'Reilly's, part # 610-527, $1.50 - Dorman M14-1.5 threat wheel stud

I had bad experiences with the cheapest brakes on my Honda Civic, but when I went up to the more expensive brakes I had no further issues. By bad experience I mean grinding noises. My truck will take anything, but the Honda appears to be more picky.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,241 Posts
While taking off the van though I did have two hiccups when two lug stud/nuts snapped off. It was one on each rear wheel. The last time it happened was the front wheels, so maybe they're just getting worn out with multiple tire changes, rotations, who knows (yes, I use a torque wrench). This has happened several times over my 170,000 miles, so I keep spares in the glove box. My local O'Reilly's is the only store that keeps them in stock, and here are the part numbers and prices:
I suggest you get rid of your torque wrench, the sooner the better.
You are overtorqing the lug nuts, or cross threading them.
Torque wrench is a precision instrument, they do require calibration every now and then, they also have strict storage requirements.
If you have done it before and it keeps happening with you in FL, you are doing something wrong (no offense), just trying to help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
688 Posts
I love autozone's free replacement warranty on their brake pads and shoes. Been using them on all my vehicles for over 13 years and will never get any other brand until they stop doing it. Using both ceramic and organic/semi metallic. If you are a diyer there is no other place to go. Best deal anywhere.

Do you have lots of rust in your studs? I guess it rains a lot there and maybe you live by the beach(salt air). My 99 still on its orginal studs and lug nuts @234K. You only need 80 ft. lb. per lug. Put some antiseize if it rust a lot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
No rust, thank you for that idea, and definitely no offense taken! I had been torquing them to 100 ft lbs, but I am wrong and should have been going to 94 instead, per the owners manual. I'll look into calibration and/or replacement next, just in case. My current torque wrench is also from AutoZone and is a 1/2". 100 ft lbs is well within the low/high marks, but it's seen some use over the years...

It's funny, you know, I have a 2002 Mazda B3000 that just broke 272k miles. It doesn't require anything remotely close to the maintenance the Odyssey requires. I don't even look at a forum for that truck because it just keeps running.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,241 Posts
No rust, thank you for that idea, and definitely no offense taken! I had been torquing them to 100 ft lbs, but I am wrong and should have been going to 94 instead, per the owners manual. I'll look into calibration and/or replacement next, just in case. My current torque wrench is also from AutoZone and is a 1/2". 100 ft lbs is well within the low/high marks, but it's seen some use over the years...

It's funny, you know, I have a 2002 Mazda B3000 that just broke 272k miles. It doesn't require anything remotely close to the maintenance the Odyssey requires. I don't even look at a forum for that truck because it just keeps running.
If you have click style torque wrench, it must be stored unloaded. If you store it set at anything but fully unloaded setting, it will loose its calibration.

I am not sure what you mean by Mazda truck not requiring same amount of maintenance. Odyssey is super basic: oil/air filter/cabin filter/transmission fluid/timing belt/coolant/plugs.
Any car on the road will require the same thing, only exception being timing belt (some use chains).
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top