Honda Odyssey Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My Honda Odyssey 2006 passed 200k miles with original engine and original transmission without my major issue except expensive maintenance cost. Decide whether to sell it or keep it until this van retire. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
943 Posts
Were some of your "expensive maintenance costs" due to having VCM on an EX-L/Touring that has not been 'Muzzled'? :unsure:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
2006 EX-L, never muzzled with 201,417.

I'm on my 3rd Alternator, only because the 2nd Alternator was done poorly by a third party garage (NEVER going back there).

On the 2nd Timing Belt (with usual extra parts, water pump, tensioners, etc).

Forgot how many headlight bulbs...

On my 2nd set of Rear struts.

3rd set of Sparks Plugs.

Both sliding doors are in desperate need of work, they open/close but scrape, grind and struggle.

Major Maintenance Codes go to the dealer.

Oil changes by me since 150,000

Changed Transmission Fluid at 150,000.

That's about it, I'm 2nd owner (bought it at 20,000-ish).

I've got my $ worth out of it. I hit my goal of 200k, now I hust have to make it until I pay off the wife's car...

Sent from my SM-T280 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
943 Posts
Both sliding doors are in desperate need of work, they open/close but scrape, grind and struggle.
Easy fix to replace the center roller assembly on each door before it gets worse!
 
  • Like
Reactions: kaimanson

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,475 Posts
223K miles on mine and bought new with 6 miles on it. I've done the timing belt and spark plug jobs twice. Just did new OEM struts up front, and OEM shocks in the rear. Did new OEM lower control arms and outer tie rod ends. I've adjusted the valves once and am on the second starter and alternator (both changed at the first signs of trouble rather than waiting until failure.) It's had three power steering pumps all done under warranty and that has been fine since the last one where they put on the upgraded part number. It had an EGR valve replaced at around 15K miles under warranty, along with a climate control unit around 30K--all warranty stuff.

I have no plans on getting rid of the van any time soon. The only time it gave me some trouble that I had a hard time figuring out was recently a check gas cap message that turned out to be a purge valve that was sticking closed. This meant it never leaked and was nearly impossible to find but was an easy fix. 220K miles on a purge valve is unheard of on most cars. GM purge valves fail every few years, it seems.

This has been the best car I've ever owned, but arguably the best I've ever taken care of a car. All replacement parts have been OEM or OEM equivalent which costs a little extra up front but means I almost never do a repair a second time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
My 07 has 298,000. Bought in 2008 with 59,000 miles on it. Engine-wise, it has been very good. Several years ago, a spark plug blew out, taking part of the coil with it for that cylinder. Dealership was able to ream the hole out and insert a sleeve. Surprisingly inexpensive repair for the situation. Around 150,000 I had transmission fluid completely replaced. Seems like tires don't last that long given the high mileage we drive.

At this point, I have a small issue list - not unexpected for the mileage. I have never had a vehicle last this well for this long.

1. Small water leak into the well at the rear of the van. Replaced weather seal around rear door. Still leaking. Not a lot, but enough.
2. Driver's side sliding door screeches and grinds, and randomly will get part of the way shut, make a bang sound, and open back up. Some times takes 10 attempts to shut. Happens much more often when it is cold. This door has been used 4 or 5 times more often than passenger sliding door.
3. A/C will never go into recirculate mode. Light comes on, but it only blows normal speed, never the faster speed. This is a BIG deal as my wife's internal thermostat has been stuck shut for years. LOL.
4. Front seat heaters work when they feel like it - you just never know. LOL.
5. Probably the most painful problem is oil consumption. It was leaking pretty good around oil pump onto the driveway. Replaced pump and seal. Not leaking on the ground now but oil consumption didn't change a noticeable amount, probably uses a quart every 400 miles. Dealership said valve cover gaskets need replaced. When sitting in traffic or at a stop light or drive through, you can smell oil smoke via the air vents. Didn't have the cash then or since to get it fixed. I just buy oil in 5 quart jugs and keep one in the rear.

I would not hesitate to get in it and drive 500 miles one way on a trip. January 2019 I got a new company van (Ford Transit Connect). Even brand new, my Ody drove better. Not a slam on Ford. The Ody is just that good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,475 Posts
My 07 has 298,000. Bought in 2008 with 59,000 miles on it. Engine-wise, it has been very good. Several years ago, a spark plug blew out, taking part of the coil with it for that cylinder. Dealership was able to ream the hole out and insert a sleeve. Surprisingly inexpensive repair for the situation. Around 150,000 I had transmission fluid completely replaced. Seems like tires don't last that long given the high mileage we drive.

At this point, I have a small issue list - not unexpected for the mileage. I have never had a vehicle last this well for this long.

1. Small water leak into the well at the rear of the van. Replaced weather seal around rear door. Still leaking. Not a lot, but enough.
2. Driver's side sliding door screeches and grinds, and randomly will get part of the way shut, make a bang sound, and open back up. Some times takes 10 attempts to shut. Happens much more often when it is cold. This door has been used 4 or 5 times more often than passenger sliding door.
3. A/C will never go into recirculate mode. Light comes on, but it only blows normal speed, never the faster speed. This is a BIG deal as my wife's internal thermostat has been stuck shut for years. LOL.
4. Front seat heaters work when they feel like it - you just never know. LOL.
5. Probably the most painful problem is oil consumption. It was leaking pretty good around oil pump onto the driveway. Replaced pump and seal. Not leaking on the ground now but oil consumption didn't change a noticeable amount, probably uses a quart every 400 miles. Dealership said valve cover gaskets need replaced. When sitting in traffic or at a stop light or drive through, you can smell oil smoke via the air vents. Didn't have the cash then or since to get it fixed. I just buy oil in 5 quart jugs and keep one in the rear.

I would not hesitate to get in it and drive 500 miles one way on a trip. January 2019 I got a new company van (Ford Transit Connect). Even brand new, my Ody drove better. Not a slam on Ford. The Ody is just that good.
1. Check behind the spare tire, where the door cables come through the side. Those sometimes leak and can even lead to some electrical issues if the connector gets wet. There is a TSB for that.

2. Replace the rear roller/hinge assembly. Not difficult to do and very common. These hinges last 100-125K miles if they are used a lot.

3. There is no fan speed change with movement of the recirculate door. The difference is just sound based on whether air is coming in from outside vs. inside. The easiest thing to do is pull the glove box as you would when changing the cabin air filter and watch the recirc door to see if it moves when you push the button. It's easy to see and check.

4. Probably not worth repairing as it means removing the seat upholstery to replace the seat heaters. Not extremely difficult but takes a special tool to replace the rings that hold upholstery in place.

5. Valve covers are common leak points but more common are (on EX-L and Touring models) are the spool valves on the rear cylinder head. Also, common is oil consumption due to VCM activation. If you have an EX-L or Touring I'd recommend disabling the VCM with a VCMTunerII device.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Bought my 2007 Ody EX-L Touring with 220K miles on it. It seems to be mostly highway miles. I had to do the following immediately after title transfer:
1. VCMuzzler
2. Remove the clicking CD changer behind the nav screen but keep the electronic control attached so the nav works: YouTube
3. Buy a new Costco battery, it wouldn't start right after signing the DMV papers.
4. Door lock actuator for the driver's side (I should have just gotten an OEM junk yard one, there are plenty there). FAERSI (Left side) from Amazon worked well
5. Diagnose oil leak:
5a. Dorman 917-268 VVT Gaskets from Amazon
5b. Honda OEM Oil Filter Base Gasket from Amazon
5c. Cam plate o-ring - I don't recommend this one unless you know for sure a leak is coming from there. The new one is almost impossible to get on without pinching/cutting.
6. Timing belt:
6a. Aisin/Mitsuboshi/Koyo Timing belt, water pump, bearing, tensioner kit (I got sold and shipped by Amazon but RockAuto is recommended for genuine products).
6b. Front/back cam gears. This is soft metal, don't use a chain vise-grip like how someone on YouTube showed.
6c. 3X Genuine Honda front oil seals (crankshaft, 2x camshaft).
6d. Remove and re-Hondabond oil pan, replace oil pickup o-ring
6e. Remove and re-Hondabond oil plate, replace 15115-P8A-A01
6f. Bando serpentine belt
6g. Serpentine/accessory belt idler pulley set.
6h. JB Weld + pipe teflon tape for fixing stripped aluminum threads on engine block (previous mechanic overtightened a bolt to the engine mount).
6i. Foxwell NT510 Elite for resetting CKP sensor. I got cylinders 1, 5 misfire at high RPM after changing the timing belt.
7. Valves
7a. Valve cover gasket and valve o-ring seals
7b. Adjust valves with feeler gauge.
8. Engine mounts (did not solve clunking, tremendously improved vibration at idle and transmission shifting feel).
8a. Non-electronic and non-vacuum-line based EX to LX conversion on Front and Rear engine mounts. OEM on rear. Thanks to: MrRangerZr1
9. New Denso radiator from RockAuto.
10. Throttle body cleaning with Foxwell NT510 Elite TB relearn. Don't touch TB otherwise!
11. Driver's side CV axle with Dorman from RockAuto. I should have gone OEM but it seems to work well so far.
11a. Broke tie rod end by accidentally puncturing oil-filled boot. Just buy a puller tool from Harbor Freight.
11b. Replaced with Moog Tie Rod End that's re-greasable with grease gun.
12. Transmission oil drain, fill.
13. Vent sync servo replaced with OEM junkyard variety.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Original owner 2007 EX-L at 317K miles with original engine, transmission, starter, alternator, etc. Heavily loaded with cargo many times, but never towed anything. Replaced power steering pump once and AC compressor twice. Oil and trans fluid only changed at maintenance minder intervals at independent shops, so oil filter changed every time. Car has always burned oil since new. Originally used the recommended oil, but have only used 0w30 (rarely 5w30 if 0w30 not available) synthetic oil since ~75K miles. Was told at last timing belt change that cams are pitted and 1 engine mount broken, which I elected not to repair cuz engine isn't making unusual noise/vibration. Did install a S-VCM Controller to compensate for broken engine mount and started having shop add a qt of synthetic racing oil with stock oil change for higher zinc content due to pitted cams. Continues to run great. Kids are gone, so we mostly use for covered cargo now. Plan to drive it until it dies. But when I read all the complaints about the new minivans of any brand, maybe will go the used engine and transmission route (when either of those dies).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
More detail about my Honda Odyssey 2006 EXL (DVD/RES) with 209k miles as today. I bought it from dealer 10 years ago with 120k miles for about $13k. Since then I spent almost $10k for major maintenance likes alternator, starter, steering pump, timing belt & water pump, passenger sliding door, OEM Honda Vtec Spool Valve Assembly replacement due to leaking oil, 3-4 times rotor resurface due to brake shaking downhill etc. The van run very good and no issue at all. However, I always think that I spend so much money on high mileage maintenance, maybe I should buy a new van but new van has too many issue like you said. Maybe I just stick with this van until it die on me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
338 Posts
2007 EX-L (DVD/RES) acquired it when my dad passed with 49K on the clock. Since then fairly typical maintenance and repair for these buses: T_belt job with Aisin kit and Honda tensioner, both center door rollers, front seat arm rest covers, one or two new coils, spark plugs, all four O2 sensors, power steering reservoir, high pressure line o-ring, 84C thermostat, headlights, front OE struts, rear Monroe shocks, front and rear Moog stab links, Moog inner and outer tie rods, Wagoner Thermo-Quiet pads and store brand rotors, trans and PS fluid exchanges every 60k,

I've added the OE tow package with Honda's receiver, PS and Trans coolers, roof rails, a bug shield and the AC condenser gutter guard mood since the retro OE guard is not compatible with Honda's coolers (nice job Honda).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I have 198K and it still runs very good and quiet. I see no reason to trade it in, but I am aware that there are many things that could go wrong that will be prohibitively expensive to fix. My main concern is tranny, which is working great, but since about 140k, I have been changing tranny fuel more frequently, with every two oil changes or about 7.5 k miles, fluid is very clear on drains. Other than rear motor mount being replaced once by Honda and the timing belt at 140k, we have had no major expense repairs except tires/brakes. All suspension parts are original
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top