Did you replace the glass already? The gate is balanced for weight and without the weight of the glass it might be too much for the automatic closer to pull downward.
Power lift gate opens but does not close
Hello all:
I have read a bunch of threads on the power lift gate, and did not find the answer I needed. I have a 2012. The rear window was shattered by a rock thrown up from a trimmer. Power open power close both stopped working immediately, so I removed all the trim and was able to clean/blow out all of the small pieces of window glass. The gate will now open using the button on the dash as well as on the key. It doesn't close automatically no matter what button I try. There is no sound, no click, no nothing. Can someone suggest a troubleshooting path? I'd rather not pay dealer rates to chase down something I can do myself.
Thanks,
Bob B.
I have read a bunch of threads on the power lift gate, and did not find the answer I needed. I have a 2012. The rear window was shattered by a rock thrown up from a trimmer. Power open power close both stopped working immediately, so I removed all the trim and was able to clean/blow out all of the small pieces of window glass. The gate will now open using the button on the dash as well as on the key. It doesn't close automatically no matter what button I try. There is no sound, no click, no nothing. Can someone suggest a troubleshooting path? I'd rather not pay dealer rates to chase down something I can do myself.
Thanks,
Bob B.
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Thanks John. Yes, the glass was replaced. This has been going on for months-- I kept hoping that it was just a sensor that would clear itself after the gate cycled a couple hundred times. No luck. It still opens fine, but there is no response from either the fob or the dash button when I try the auto-close. That's why I don't think it's the motor. I would hear a solenoid click or a motor bind I would think. I guessing there's a disconnect in the circuit somewhere.
Lets start with the simple stuff. Do you get any tailgate messages on the dash (i.e. "check power tailgate"?) Did you try a door reset? Close the liftgate and then remove the B16 (10A) fuse in the underh-hood fuse/relay box, leave it out for a minute or so, and then put it back in. Doing this will clear any codes associated with the system so if you end up taking it in this may not be the best course of action.
My first suspicion is maybe it is seeing something that prevents it from starting the close routine. It needs to see the following:
Tailgate fully open
Pinch sensor detects no obstruction
Closer unit detects the neutral position
Battery voltage above 11V
System not in fail-safe mode
If I had to venture a guess I'd say maybe the pinch sensors are sensing a problem (when they shouldn't) or the tailgate is not being sensed as all the way up.
Unfortunately, without some higher tech tools (scan tool and a scope) it's going to be hard to diagnose it. This is all controlled by CAN bus signals between modules. You could probably test pinch sensors and maybe switches in the closer motor but if those check out good you have no way of looking at the network communication going on. I think it would be worth your while to take it somewhere and have it diagnosed and then do the repair yourself. You may pay $100 or so for the diagnostic and then you can do the repair.
My first suspicion is maybe it is seeing something that prevents it from starting the close routine. It needs to see the following:
Tailgate fully open
Pinch sensor detects no obstruction
Closer unit detects the neutral position
Battery voltage above 11V
System not in fail-safe mode
If I had to venture a guess I'd say maybe the pinch sensors are sensing a problem (when they shouldn't) or the tailgate is not being sensed as all the way up.
Unfortunately, without some higher tech tools (scan tool and a scope) it's going to be hard to diagnose it. This is all controlled by CAN bus signals between modules. You could probably test pinch sensors and maybe switches in the closer motor but if those check out good you have no way of looking at the network communication going on. I think it would be worth your while to take it somewhere and have it diagnosed and then do the repair yourself. You may pay $100 or so for the diagnostic and then you can do the repair.
Great recommendation on the scan. I hadn't thought of that. I'll do one last visual of connections etc. then take it in. Thanks.
Sometimes you can get codes to display on the gauge display. Take a jumper wire and jump the #4 and #9 pins on the DLC under the dash on the driver's side (where the scan tool plugs in) and then turn on the key.
I'll try that. I have a cheap OBDII bluetooth scan module that I use in an LX470 with TorquePro to view codes. I may see if that will give me codes if the jumper wire trick doesn't work.
The OBDII scan tool won't read any Honda proprietary body codes. If the jumper method doesn't do it you'll need a professional level scan tool that can read all the body codes. On the Gen 3 Ody's there was a couple of terminals in the driver's side MICU that could be jumped to also show codes on the gauge display. Not sure if that's available on the Gen 4 or not. I haven't seen it in the Gen 4 service manual as I have in the Gen 3.
Also, reading the codes is only one part of what the professional level scan tool will do. You can also view live data such as all the latch switch positions. That is almost as valuable, if not more valuable, than the codes that might be stored. Additionally, a digital storage oscilloscope is needed to see what kind of signals are being sent.
Also, reading the codes is only one part of what the professional level scan tool will do. You can also view live data such as all the latch switch positions. That is almost as valuable, if not more valuable, than the codes that might be stored. Additionally, a digital storage oscilloscope is needed to see what kind of signals are being sent.
Was there ever a resolution to this problem? I also have a 2012, rear window was broken in a smash-n-grab. The shop I took it to said the tailgate would not close automatically with either button.
Would appreciate an update if a solution was found!
Would appreciate an update if a solution was found!
Hello all:
I have read a bunch of threads on the power lift gate, and did not find the answer I needed. I have a 2012. The rear window was shattered by a rock thrown up from a trimmer. Power open power close both stopped working immediately, so I removed all the trim and was able to clean/blow out all of the small pieces of window glass. The gate will now open using the button on the dash as well as on the key. It doesn't close automatically no matter what button I try. There is no sound, no click, no nothing. Can someone suggest a troubleshooting path? I'd rather not pay dealer rates to chase down something I can do myself.
Thanks,
Bob B.
I have a 2009 with the same problem - never had the back window broker, just stopped working today. It says "Check Power LiftGate" on the information panel on the dash... open fine, but wont close automatically - any thoughts???Was there ever a resolution to this problem? I also have a 2012, rear window was broken in a smash-n-grab. The shop I took it to said the tailgate would not close automatically with either button.
Would appreciate an update if a solution was found!
That means there is a code stored. Need to get that code(s).
How do I get the code / without going to the dealer? Could it be a fuse?That means there is a code stored. Need to get that code(s).
You need a professional level scan tool for that. Without that, there is a connector under the left side kick panel that can have the terminals shorted with a wire, then turn on the key, and read codes on the dash. They are called B-CAN codes. There are other threads here on the forum regarding this.
Thanks so much! Would you happen to know which fuse controls the power lift on the 2009?You need a professional level scan tool for that. Without that, there is a connector under the left side kick panel that can have the terminals shorted with a wire, then turn on the key, and read codes on the dash. They are called B-CAN codes. There are other threads here on the forum regarding this.
Don't go messing with the fuse. If you do, you will end up clearing the code which is the key to getting to the problem with your lift gate.
Hi Bob,Hello all:
I have read a bunch of threads on the power lift gate, and did not find the answer I needed. I have a 2012. The rear window was shattered by a rock thrown up from a trimmer. Power open power close both stopped working immediately, so I removed all the trim and was able to clean/blow out all of the small pieces of window glass. The gate will now open using the button on the dash as well as on the key. It doesn't close automatically no matter what button I try. There is no sound, no click, no nothing. Can someone suggest a troubleshooting path? I'd rather not pay dealer rates to chase down something I can do myself.
Thanks,
Bob B.
Sorry to bug you, but did you ever find out what was causing your power tailgate not to close on your Odyssey?
Thanks in advance,
ED
I had my lift gate replaced with an exact duplicate on my 2012, and same thing. Will lift up, but with a different scenario. The gate starts to open normally and after about 1-2 seconds, releases completely in emergency mode. Just took it to my dealer, they scanned and found nothing wrong. They disconnected the pinch sensor, made no difference. Said they could start ripping apart and checking circuits at $100hr labor and predict 3hrs minimum. I passed on that and now I'm exactly where I was before. I would sure appreciate if anyone got this resolved and how?[/QUOTE]Hi Bob,
Sorry to bug you, but did you ever find out what was causing your power tailgate not to close on your Odyssey?
Thanks in advance,
ED
Good morning, I just had this same thing happen. My rear window got broken and after the glass company came out and installed a new glass panel in rear tailgate the power open works, but power close would not. After many different checks I then learned that both sides of the tailgate have a pinch sensor inside what looks like weatherstripping attached to the long metal plates that are mounted to each backside of the tailgate and had to be removed when replacing the glass. When they reinstalled them they kinked the ends of the bulb tube where the wiring is attached, and this sent a signal to the control module telling it that something was in the way and not to close. I removed these metal pieces on the back edges of the tailgate and reconfigured the end of the bulb tubes with the wiring making sure not to kink the tubes and amazing the power tailgate works just like it should. Hope this helps others fix the issue. (It turns out the glass company had no idea these were pinch sensors.)Hello all:
I have read a bunch of threads on the power lift gate, and did not find the answer I needed. I have a 2012. The rear window was shattered by a rock thrown up from a trimmer. Power open power close both stopped working immediately, so I removed all the trim and was able to clean/blow out all of the small pieces of window glass. The gate will now open using the button on the dash as well as on the key. It doesn't close automatically no matter what button I try. There is no sound, no click, no nothing. Can someone suggest a troubleshooting path? I'd rather not pay dealer rates to chase down something I can do myself.
Thanks,
Bob B.
cshook74
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
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