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Power sliding door mega thread - common issues, their symptoms, and how to fix them

114K views 318 replies 85 participants last post by  WiiMaster  
#1 · (Edited)
The goal of this thread is to consolidate all the information about power sliding door issues that is spread out across the forum. While it will be primarily focused on the 3rd generation Odyssey (2005-2010), the basic ideas in this thread can be applied to all Odysseys with power sliding doors. To an extent, some information can even be relevant for models with manual sliding doors. This thread will not cover every possible issue, but most common issues will be covered, so check here first.

While there will be plenty of discussion in this thread, this first post contains the key information, so reading the rest of the thread (many pages) is not necessary. However, feel free to contribute to the discussion if you choose. You may find other helpful information in replies to the thread.

Preliminary Steps:
If you are encountering a problem with door movement, first make sure to follow these instructions to eliminate basic issues before continuing troubleshooting:
- Ensure that all 3 tracks (the upper track, center rail, and lower track) are clear of any blockages. It is especially common for debris to fall into the lower track during everyday use, which can interfere with door operation.

- The upper track should contain a rubber bumper at the rear end as shown below:
Image

Ensure this bumper is present, as it could potentially cause issues if it isn't. If you need to replace this bumper, the part number is: 72557-S0X-A00. There are many videos on YouTube showing how to install it. It is very simple and only takes a few seconds.


- Make sure the rollers on all 3 tracks are properly lubricated. A white lithium grease is a good lubricant to use.

- Pull out the #7 fuse in the driver's footwell fuse box for 15-20 seconds and then reinsert it. Once it is reinserted, cycle the door once manually and then see if the issue is resolved.

Common Issues:
Worn Center Roller (very common) -
Possible Symptoms: Door movement is jerky, door will close partway and then reverse direction.

One way you can confirm this issue is by using the movement test shown in this video. It involves grabbing the rear end of the door when it is open and pulling it back and forth perpendicular to the direction the door normally moves in, checking for excessive play.

Repair: Repair or replace the center roller assembly.

There are two ways to fix this issue. You can either replace the roller assembly, or if you're feeling adventurous, members of this forum have had success with replacing just the nylon rollers on the assembly. @kernel has put together a page showing this process on his website.

If you choose to replace the roller assembly, there are several videos detailing the procedure. Here is one example, from EricTheCarGuy:

For the 05-10 Odyssey, the roller assembly part numbers are as follows:
Driver's side (left): 72561-SHJ-A21
Passenger's side (right): 72521-SHJ-A21

NOTE: As of March 2025, a new aftermarket center roller is available for the 05-10 Odyssey that uses metal rollers instead of nylon rollers like the OEM rollers and other aftermarket options. A few members have installed this new product, and early returns are promising. You may consider getting this over the OEM replacement. It is currently only sold as a pair for both the left and right side, but it is still very inexpensive and worth purchasing even if you don't use both sides immediately. You can find it on Amazon here:

With the exception of the specific aftermarket roller mentioned above, it is generally recommended to use an OEM assembly, as the aftermarket assemblies typically do not last long.

Failed Latch Actuator -
Possible Symptoms: When attempting to open or close the door, it makes a whine/groan noise, then fails to unlatch from the open or closed position. In some cases, the door may briefly whine/groan and then open with a loud popping sound.

Here is a video showing the symptoms of this problem, so you can see if it matches up with what you are experiencing.

Repair: Repair or replace the power release actuator (also known as the door latch actuator)

Although it does sometimes happen, it is very rare for anything to actually break inside this actuator. Inside the actuator is a small clutch pin. This clutch pin often gets stuck over time and doesn't move as easily as it should. This can be fixed by removing the actuator, opening it, and spraying the clutch pin and other gears inside with a white lithium or silicone spray grease. This repair is very effective and can last a long time. Here is a video that shows both the process of removing the actuator and performing this repair:

Alternatively, you can replace the actuator with a new part using the same instructions. The part number for the actuator for 05-10 Odysseys is as follows:
Driver's side (left): 72663-SHJ-A21
Passenger's side (right): 72623-SHJ-A21

There is no aftermarket replacement for this part.

Failed Rear Latch Assembly -
Possible Symptoms: Door gets pulled in too far when closing, pauses for a few seconds before releasing; Door doesn't latch when closing; 400 mA parasitic battery drain; Constant beep when van is put into gear with power sliding door main switch turned on; Slide Door light illuminated on dash; No response when attempting to open door

This is arguably the most involved common issue with the door, with many different potential symptoms that can arise from it. If one of your symptoms is seeing the Slide Door light illuminated on the dash, you can read the code using the "foil trick" that is shown in
this video.

Repair: Repair or replace the rear latch assembly

Generally, there are two different things that go wrong in this assembly. Over time, the gears and levers in the assembly can seize due to a lack of lubrication and fail to engage the microswitches for the latch. Thus, when the door goes to close, the control module is waiting for a response from the microswitches that it never sees, so it stays awake indefinitely waiting for the response, causing a draw on the battery, and the vehicle no longer sees the door as being closed, resulting in a beep when putting the van in gear. The microswitches themselves can also fail, causing the same symptom.

The easiest way to fix this issue is to purchase a new rear latch assembly and install it. This is guaranteed to solve the issue. The part numbers for the rear latch assembly for 05-10 Odysseys are:
Driver's side (left): 72650-SHJ-A22
Passenger's side (right): 72610-SHJ-A22

There is no aftermarket replacement for this part.

However, the latch assembly can be expensive at around $250, so many opt to repair/recondition the existing assembly.


One of the simplest things to try is to lubricate the mechanism through the exterior bolt holes. If you look at the back edge of the door, you will see three bolts sticking out:
Image


One bolt at a time, remove the bolt, spray some white lithium grease inside, and reinstall the bolt. Do this for all 3 bolts. Sometimes this can solve the issue.

Otherwise, you may need to remove the latch assembly from the door to solder in new microswitches and/or lubricate the mechanism so that the switch is engaged. This video shows the process of removing the assembly, testing, and replacing the microswitches:

Failed Fuel Door Interlock Switch -
Possible Symptoms: Driver's side sliding door does not unlock (3 beeps when trying to open); When trying to manually push up lock tab, the tab resists and returns to the locked position when released unless the tab is held in the unlocked position for several seconds.

Repair: Replace the fuel door interlock switch

In the fuel fill area, there is a switch that is designed to lock the driver's side sliding door when the fuel door is open to prevent the door from being opened, which could damage the fuel door. This switch can fail or not be engaged properly when the fuel door is closed, preventing the door from unlocking.

Open the fuel door and on the inside of the door, there should be a tab positioned in a way that causes it to press in the switch inside when the door is closed. If this tab is broken or missing, simply attach something else there to press in the switch, and this will resolve the issue.


If the switch itself has failed (you can test it by manually pushing the switch in and seeing if the door unlocks when you do this), it will have to be replaced. The part number for this switch on 05-10 Odysseys is:
74380-SHJ-A01

This video shows the switch as well as how to replace it:

Final Notes:
If you are looking for even more detailed information about any of these repairs, use the search function of the forum and you can find dedicated threads and posts. This post is simply intended to point you in the right direction.

While models with manual sliding doors do not have the power release actuator or the rear latch assembly, they do still have the center roller and the fuel door interlock switch, so those issues are still relevant.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
#2 ·
For soldering new switches into the rear latch assembly: replacement switches from Digi-Key:

normal open switch is 255-6509-ND

normal close switch is 255-6457-ND

Info from this post: '05 sliding door micro switch cost and source
 
#237 ·
I had an issue with the RH door function. From following the details in this thread, I have fixed my door by replacing the bad switch.

I am an electrical engineer working at a wire harness shop. We mostly make automotive harnesses. I can tell you that a direct fit replacement is a D2WH-C281M switch from Omron. This switch is a 3-wire model. It directly screws into place with the correct lever. You can buy this at Digi-key, Mouser, etc.

https://www.digikey.com/short/w2vmvw90
 
#6 ·
Much like the other two megathreads I fully expect people to not read it. But it is a lot easier from a help-providing perspective to have a simple link to send people to instead of re-explaining the same thing.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
#7 ·
@WiiMaster as a suggestion another common problem to add is broken cables jammed in the motor housing preventing doors from opening and/or closing. It's happened to both of my doors which are now manual. Three months ago when I was removing the cable and unjamming the right door, I somehow ran the battery ran down (probably already low due to parasitic drain). After sliding the switch on the dash to the manual position and getting the battery charged up, I no longer have the warning to check my sliding door in the MID, a message I had seen for over 2 years after the cable on the left door had broken.
 
#8 ·
I'll have to think about it, because really you could argue that it's just an extra symptom of one of the issues already in here.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
#9 ·
There was a chart posted on OdyClub a while back, that showed normally open / normally closed switch positions in different door states, from I'll guess a FSM.
That would be awesome to included too.

It would help with rear latch switches diagnostic and testing procedures.

I thought I bookmarked it, but can't find.
It's in one of the 10000 slider threads.
I'd bet post came from @hpark21 fwiw.
 
#10 ·
Great stuff... thanks for the detailed write-up. One question/possible help if someone finds this later: I recently replaced my battery and left one of the doors open when doing so. Upon putting in the new battery the door would not close until I manually closed it. Is this an intended/normal pattern of operation? I figured so but panicked for a bit thinking something was wrong with the door.
 
#11 ·
Yes, even the owner's manual mentions this. When power is interrupted with the door open the door must be reset before it'll work again.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
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#14 ·
So my 2006 had the rollers disintegrate and I replaced the entire assembly with doorman replacements a few months ago. And I guess they were used to long previously because one side has the rollers broken again already because the track is so gnarled up and worn.

how intensive is it to replace the tracks for the rollers for these doors?
 
#24 ·
how intensive is it to replace the tracks for the rollers for these doors?
I'm sure once you pull small long body panel track/roller cover and follow the mid roller replacemt videos, it should be obvious how to replace the actual track.
I searched and can't figure out the part #. Hopefully this track unbolts.
Check junk yard perhaps. Or ask a dealer for part #.
 
#15 ·
Aftermarket rollers aren't recommended for a reason. They don't last.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
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#19 ·
Thanks for this excellent thread. I have replaced my door rollers three times, twice with aftermarket (do not recommend) and lastly with OEM rollers. The OEMs are holding up longer.

I also simply removed the cables and let them get drawn into the motor. Now the doors are manual. Previously, even if you switched off the doors at the main switch in the driver console, you couldn't fight the motor to open or close the door, so they were simply locked in position. I honestly couldn't stand the power doors, so it's nice having them manual.

However now both doors won't latch open. I just remembered I did post a thread about it here and I got some advice - I guess I need to dismantle the lower door area and just see why they aren't latching open. However I've had a continual stream of other repairs on this Ody over the last year (VCM muzzling, new CV axles, new plugs, new bearings, etc) - haven't gotten to it yet.
 
#21 · (Edited)
#25 ·
My issue is different than what is discussed in the OP but seems to fit in the general spirit of the thread: My passenger door sometimes won't open/close with the fob or button (just beeps) and I finally realized it's because the security lock is not totally disengaging. When it happens I can look at the lock and see it's just not fully releasing. A quick flick by hand to elevate the slide switch/lock and all is well again. I did a search online and just keep coming up with roller problems. Is there a routine for lubricating or otherwise servicing the actual locking mechanism so it releases completely?
 
#26 ·
Issues with the lock actuator do happen but are less common so they aren't mentioned here. The best way to get at the lock actuator is to pull off the door panel so you have access to the full mechanism.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
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#28 ·
Awesome post. I have the dreaded 400ma drain and my passenger side sliding door is dead. worked one day, now nothing. It appears from reading through, that I have a micro switch issue. Hopefully its one i can replace. in the meantime, is there a fuse I can pull to stop the draw until I have time to dig into it? currently disconnecting the battery every day is getting old. Sorry if I missed this somewhere. BTW 2005 EX-L Ody.
 
#29 ·
The #7 fuse. But you'll want to put it back in before driving it.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
#32 ·
Thanks for the Mega Thread!

I have put 257,000 miles on the 2007 EXL I bought new 16 years ago this month. With the help of this forum, I think I have had (and repaired) all of the issues listed above with the exception of the fuel door interlock switch. I guess that is something to look forward to. I've had:
  • Failed driver's side lock actuator that prevented me from locking or unlocking the door except by reaching back to pull the interior lever up (replaced)
  • Worn center rollers that made the doors operate roughly and sometimes reverse direction part way through opening or closing (replaced rollers on both doors using OEM Honda parts)
  • Failed driver's side rear latch assembly that prevented the door from closing completely and caused beeping when the van was shifted into gear (removed, cleaned, lithium greased and reinstalled the assembly)
Don't get me started on failed blend door actuators!

But, I now have a sliding door issue that I had not read about before.

My passenger side sliding door opens and closes fine using all of the methods (exterior handle, key fob, driver's switch, interior handle), but sometimes the interior handle does not return to the vertical position when closed from the inside. It stays at an angle toward the front of the car (see the photo below) until you move it back to vertical or use it to open the door back up.

Before I open it up and start poking around, I was hoping to hear from someone else that had a similar issue. Is it something that can be addressed by cleaning and lubricating the control assembly mechanism (like the latch assembly) or is this a symptom of some failing actuator that needs to be replaced?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Image
 
#33 ·
The door lock actuator you mention is not one of the issues in the megathread, you're confusing it with the release actuator that does something else.

From what I know it's normal, sometimes the door handle doesn't return until you give it a little push back to normal. I've had it happen a couple times on mine. If you really wanted to, you could probably take off the door panel and lube the little rod the handle attaches to, but it's not really something worth losing sleep over.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
#35 · (Edited)
"Repair: Replace the fuel door interlock switch"
For my '05 Ody the interlock switch was still good but the plastic tabs holding it in place broke. As a result the button could not be depressed by the fuel door. I didn't feel like purchasing a new switch, especially since my switch actually works (tested by pushing on the button by hand and hearing the locking mechanism disengage/engage.

My $0.02 solution:
1. Cut a 5/16" (inner diameter) washer with a hack saw into a "C" shape

2. Remove rubber grommet from interlock switch (can access from inside fuel door)
Image


3. Access the fuel door interlock switch via the speaker on panel closest to fuel door (other videos here show this process)

4. Have one person push the interlock switch into place from the speaker side. Make sure the interlock switch is positioned correctly (may need to turn the switch clockwise or counter clockwise so it lines up right). Have a second person access the interlock switch from fuel door side. Installs the "C" washer on the interlock switch on notches that held rubber grommet from step 2

Image


5. reinstall rubber grommet
Image



Unfortunately I didn't take more picture. I didn't know if this would work or not. My other mistake was to remove the large o-ring from the interconnect switch (could only access this o-ring from inside the vehicle. I ended up installing it behind the "C" shaped washer.

This 'fix' creates a very strong connection that I think will last years.
 
#37 ·
The goal of this thread is to consolidate all the information about power sliding door issues that is spread out across the forum. While it will be primarily focused on the 3rd generation Odyssey (2005-2010), the basic ideas in this thread can be applied to all Odysseys with power sliding doors. To an extent, some information can even be relevant for models with manual sliding doors. This thread will not cover every possible issue, but most common issues will be covered, so check here first.

While there will be plenty of discussion in this thread, this first post contains the key information, so reading the rest of the thread (many pages) is not necessary. However, feel free to contribute to the discussion if you choose. You may find other helpful information in replies to the thread.

Preliminary Steps:
If you are encountering a problem with door movement, first make sure to follow these instructions to eliminate basic issues before continuing troubleshooting:
- Ensure that all 3 tracks (the upper track, center rail, and lower track) are clear of any blockages. It is especially common for debris to fall into the lower track during everyday use, which can interfere with door operation)

- The upper track should contain a rubber bumper at the rear end as shown below:
View attachment 173078
Ensure this bumper is present, as it could potentially cause issues if it isn't. If you need to replace this bumper, the part number is: 72557-S0X-A00. There are many videos on YouTube showing how to install it. It is very simple and only takes a few seconds.


- Make sure the rollers on all 3 tracks are properly lubricated. A white lithium grease is a good lubricant to use.

- Pull out the #7 fuse in the driver's footwell fuse box for 15-20 seconds and then reinsert it. Once it is reinserted, cycle the door once manually and then see if the issue is resolved.

Common Issues:
Worn Center Roller (very common) -
Possible Symptoms: Door movement is jerky, door will close partway and then reverse direction.

One way you can confirm this issue is by using the movement test shown in this video. It involves grabbing the rear end of the door when it is open and pulling it back and forth perpendicular to the direction the door normally moves in, checking for excessive play.

Repair: Repair or replace the center roller assembly.

There are two ways to fix this issue. You can either replace the roller assembly, or if you're feeling adventurous, members of this forum have had success with replacing just the nylon rollers on the assembly. @kernel has put together a page showing this process on his website.

If you choose to replace the roller assembly, there are several videos detailing the procedure. Here is one example, from EricTheCarGuy:

For the 05-10 Odyssey, the roller assembly part numbers are as follows:
Driver's side (left): 72561-SHJ-A21
Passenger's side (right): 72521-SHJ-A21

It is generally recommended to use an OEM assembly, as the aftermarket assemblies typically do not last long.

Failed Latch Actuator -
Possible Symptoms: When attempting to open or close the door, it makes a whine/groan noise, then fails to unlatch from the open or closed position. In some cases, the door may briefly whine/groan and then open with a loud popping sound.

Here is a video showing the symptoms of this problem, so you can see if it matches up with what you are experiencing.

Repair: Repair or replace the power release actuator (also known as the door latch actuator)

Although it does sometimes happen, it is very rare for anything to actually break inside this actuator. Inside the actuator is a small clutch pin. This clutch pin often gets stuck over time and doesn't move as easily as it should. This can be fixed by removing the actuator, opening it, and spraying the clutch pin and other gears inside with a white lithium or silicone spray grease. This repair is very effective and can last a long time. Here is a video that shows both the process of removing the actuator and performing this repair:

Alternatively, you can replace the actuator with a new part using the same instructions. The part number for the actuator for 05-10 Odysseys is as follows:
Driver's side (left): 72663-SHJ-A21
Passenger's side (right): 72623-SHJ-A21

There is no aftermarket replacement for this part.

Failed Rear Latch Assembly -
Possible Symptoms: Door gets pulled in too far when closing, pauses for a few seconds before releasing; Door doesn't latch when closing; 400 mA parasitic battery drain; Constant beep when van is put into gear with power sliding door main switch turned on; Slide Door light illuminated on dash; No response when attempting to open door

This is arguably the most involved common issue with the door, with many different potential symptoms that can arise from it. If one of your symptoms is seeing the Slide Door light illuminated on the dash, you can read the code using the "foil trick" that is shown in
this video.

Repair: Repair or replace the rear latch assembly

Generally, there are two different things that go wrong in this assembly. Over time, the gears and levers in the assembly can seize due to a lack of lubrication and fail to engage the microswitches for the latch. Thus, when the door goes to close, the control module is waiting for a response from the microswitches that it never sees, so it stays awake indefinitely waiting for the response, causing a draw on the battery, and the vehicle no longer sees the door as being closed, resulting in a beep when putting the van in gear. The microswitches themselves can also fail, causing the same symptom.

The easiest way to fix this issue is to purchase a new rear latch assembly and install it. This is guaranteed to solve the issue. The part numbers for the rear latch assembly for 05-10 Odysseys are:
Driver's side (left): 72650-SHJ-A22
Passenger's side (right): 72610-SHJ-A22

There is no aftermarket replacement for this part.

However, the latch assembly can be expensive at around $250, so many opt to repair/recondition the existing assembly.


One of the simplest things to try is to lubricate the mechanism through the exterior bolt holes. If you look at the back edge of the door, you will see three bolts sticking out:
View attachment 173087

One bolt at a time, remove the bolt, spray some white lithium grease inside, and reinstall the bolt. Do this for all 3 bolts. Sometimes this can solve the issue.

Otherwise, you may need to remove the latch assembly from the door to solder in new microswitches and/or lubricate the mechanism so that the switch is engaged. This video shows the process of removing the assembly, testing, and replacing the microswitches:

Failed Fuel Door Interlock Switch -
Possible Symptoms: Driver's side sliding door does not unlock (3 beeps when trying to open); When trying to manually push up lock tab, the tab resists and returns to the locked position when released unless the tab is held in the unlocked position for several seconds.

Repair: Replace the fuel door interlock switch

In the fuel fill area, there is a switch that is designed to lock the driver's side sliding door when the fuel door is open to prevent the door from being opened, which could damage the fuel door. This switch can fail or not be engaged properly when the fuel door is closed, preventing the door from unlocking.

Open the fuel door and on the inside of the door, there should be a tab positioned in a way that causes it to press in the switch inside when the door is closed. If this tab is broken or missing, simply attach something else there to press in the switch, and this will resolve the issue.


If the switch itself has failed (you can test it by manually pushing the switch in and seeing if the door unlocks when you do this), it will have to be replaced. The part number for this switch on 05-10 Odysseys is:
74380-SHJ-A01

This video shows the switch as well as how to replace it:

Final Notes:
If you are looking for even more detailed information about any of these repairs, use the search function of the forum and you can find dedicated threads and posts. This post is simply intended to point you in the right direction.

While models with manual sliding doors do not have the power release actuator or the rear latch assembly, they do still have the center roller and the fuel door interlock switch, so those issues are still relevant.
Good morning everybody!
I have a new issue that I did not see posted here, it goes like this!!

If I start the car or put the key in the ignition I can open the sliding doors from the driver seat controls on the dashboard or people can open the doors using the door handles…….HOWEVER….once I have put the car in DRIVE and driven the car, if I come to a stop to pick up a friend or love one and put the car in PARK or NEUTRAL…..IT WILL NOT let me slide the doors open either from the controls on the dashboard or from the door handle outside! No matter how many times I hit the unlock button and even if ALL doors are on the “unlocked” position!! The only way it will let me open the doors from inside or outside is if i shut the car off and restart it!! o_O

help please!!
 
#45 ·
Hello, I'm having trouble with one of the power sliding doors on my 2006 Honda Odyssey EX, and I'm hoping that I can get some help here.

Recently, the door wire broke in half on the driver's side, which has caused it to no longer open or close automatically.
After this incident, I was able to manually open and close it a few times when necessary. However, since then, the door seems to be stuck in a locked position.

When I try to manually pull the door open, it only moves less than an inch. It appears that the locking mechanism or "hook/latch" in the door, which keeps it shut, won't let go from the metal arc that is fastened to the car's frame/body. I have checked that the door slide lock is set to "unlocked" from the inside, so I don't think the problem is related to the fuel door sensor.

Could anyone please provide some guidance on how to resolve this issue without having to take it to a repair shop?
 
#46 ·