Here's some additional information that may be useful if your sliding door doesn't open fully but the window on that door is fully closed. There's a switch that detects (or should detect) window position and is what prevents travel all the way open. If the window is closed and you have the problem with partial travel, the issue may be the switch itself or the connectors to the switch. The regulator is relatively expensive so isolating the problem to the switch or connectors would be better than replacing a regulator that otherwise works properly. I don't have info on the microswitch, but will post info when I do. The switch on the image below has the red and black wires going to the black connector on this regulator. This may not look exactly like your unit, but the switch should be similar.

 

This has probably already been answered somewhere within this thread, but I have a 2018 Odyssey and the passenger side door has started giving us issues. It does have excessive play when I grab the rear of the door while opened and pull back and forth... So I'm thinking the center roller assembly may need replacing, But I keep getting conflicting information when searching for the correct part to fit my year model. Can someone please help by providing the correct part number? Thanks in advance!

 

Jpainter187 -

The 2017 is a Gen 4 variant - it may be similar to the Gen 3 design but posting your question in the Gen 4 forum would help someone with more specific experience of that series to respond.
The general guidance in this section may be helpful to some extent, but you might also add some detail on the exact issues you're having so someone can help you diagnose what's wrong based on the overall symptom(s).

 

Jpainter187 -

The 2017 is a Gen 4 variant - it may be similar to the Gen 3 design but posting your question in the Gen 4 forum would help someone with more specific experience of that series to respond.
The general guidance in this section may be helpful to some extent, but you might also add some detail on the exact issues you're having so someone can help you diagnose what's wrong based on the overall symptom(s).

You're correct. That's what I get for not even realizing this was in a thread for a previous generation Odyssey! Thanks for the help! 😄

 

The goal of this thread is to consolidate all the information about power sliding door issues that is spread out across the forum. While it will be primarily focused on the 3rd generation Odyssey (2005-2010), the basic ideas in this thread can be applied to all Odysseys with power sliding doors. To an extent, some information can even be relevant for models with manual sliding doors. This thread will not cover every possible issue, but most common issues will be covered, so check here first.

While there will be plenty of discussion in this thread, this first post contains the key information, so reading the rest of the thread (many pages) is not necessary. However, feel free to contribute to the discussion if you choose. You may find other helpful information in replies to the thread.

Preliminary Steps:
If you are encountering a problem with door movement, first make sure to follow these instructions to eliminate basic issues before continuing troubleshooting:
- Ensure that all 3 tracks (the upper track, center rail, and lower track) are clear of any blockages. It is especially common for debris to fall into the lower track during everyday use, which can interfere with door operation.

- The upper track should contain a rubber bumper at the rear end as shown below:
View attachment 173078
Ensure this bumper is present, as it could potentially cause issues if it isn't. If you need to replace this bumper, the part number is: 72557-S0X-A00. There are many videos on YouTube showing how to install it. It is very simple and only takes a few seconds.

- Make sure the rollers on all 3 tracks are properly lubricated. A white lithium grease is a good lubricant to use.

- Pull out the #7 fuse in the driver's footwell fuse box for 15-20 seconds and then reinsert it. Once it is reinserted, cycle the door once manually and then see if the issue is resolved.

Common Issues:
Worn Center Roller (very common) -
Possible Symptoms: Door movement is jerky, door will close partway and then reverse direction.

One way you can confirm this issue is by using the movement test shown in this video. It involves grabbing the rear end of the door when it is open and pulling it back and forth perpendicular to the direction the door normally moves in, checking for excessive play.

Repair: Repair or replace the center roller assembly.

There are two ways to fix this issue. You can either replace the roller assembly, or if you're feeling adventurous, members of this forum have had success with replacing just the nylon rollers on the assembly. @kernel has put together a page showing this process on his website.

If you choose to replace the roller assembly, there are several videos detailing the procedure. Here is one example, from EricTheCarGuy:

For the 05-10 Odyssey, the roller assembly part numbers are as follows:
Driver's side (left): 72561-SHJ-A21
Passenger's side (right): 72521-SHJ-A21

It is generally recommended to use an OEM assembly, as the aftermarket assemblies typically do not last long.

Failed Latch Actuator -
Possible Symptoms: When attempting to open or close the door, it makes a whine/groan noise, then fails to unlatch from the open or closed position. In some cases, the door may briefly whine/groan and then open with a loud popping sound.

Here is a video showing the symptoms of this problem, so you can see if it matches up with what you are experiencing.

Repair: Repair or replace the power release actuator (also known as the door latch actuator)

Although it does sometimes happen, it is very rare for anything to actually break inside this actuator. Inside the actuator is a small clutch pin. This clutch pin often gets stuck over time and doesn't move as easily as it should. This can be fixed by removing the actuator, opening it, and spraying the clutch pin and other gears inside with a white lithium or silicone spray grease. This repair is very effective and can last a long time. Here is a video that shows both the process of removing the actuator and performing this repair:

Alternatively, you can replace the actuator with a new part using the same instructions. The part number for the actuator for 05-10 Odysseys is as follows:
Driver's side (left): 72663-SHJ-A21
Passenger's side (right): 72623-SHJ-A21

There is no aftermarket replacement for this part.

Failed Rear Latch Assembly -
Possible Symptoms: Door gets pulled in too far when closing, pauses for a few seconds before releasing; Door doesn't latch when closing; 400 mA parasitic battery drain; Constant beep when van is put into gear with power sliding door main switch turned on; Slide Door light illuminated on dash; No response when attempting to open door

This is arguably the most involved common issue with the door, with many different potential symptoms that can arise from it. If one of your symptoms is seeing the Slide Door light illuminated on the dash, you can read the code using the "foil trick" that is shown in this video.

Repair: Repair or replace the rear latch assembly

Generally, there are two different things that go wrong in this assembly. Over time, the gears and levers in the assembly can seize due to a lack of lubrication and fail to engage the microswitches for the latch. Thus, when the door goes to close, the control module is waiting for a response from the microswitches that it never sees, so it stays awake indefinitely waiting for the response, causing a draw on the battery, and the vehicle no longer sees the door as being closed, resulting in a beep when putting the van in gear. The microswitches themselves can also fail, causing the same symptom.

The easiest way to fix this issue is to purchase a new rear latch assembly and install it. This is guaranteed to solve the issue. The part numbers for the rear latch assembly for 05-10 Odysseys are:
Driver's side (left): 72650-SHJ-A22
Passenger's side (right): 72610-SHJ-A22

There is no aftermarket replacement for this part.

However, the latch assembly can be expensive at around $250, so many opt to repair/recondition the existing assembly.

One of the simplest things to try is to lubricate the mechanism through the exterior bolt holes. If you look at the back edge of the door, you will see three bolts sticking out:
View attachment 173087

One bolt at a time, remove the bolt, spray some white lithium grease inside, and reinstall the bolt. Do this for all 3 bolts. Sometimes this can solve the issue.

Otherwise, you may need to remove the latch assembly from the door to solder in new microswitches and/or lubricate the mechanism so that the switch is engaged. This video shows the process of removing the assembly, testing, and replacing the microswitches:

Failed Fuel Door Interlock Switch -
Possible Symptoms: Driver's side sliding door does not unlock (3 beeps when trying to open); When trying to manually push up lock tab, the tab resists and returns to the locked position when released unless the tab is held in the unlocked position for several seconds.

Repair: Replace the fuel door interlock switch

In the fuel fill area, there is a switch that is designed to lock the driver's side sliding door when the fuel door is open to prevent the door from being opened, which could damage the fuel door. This switch can fail or not be engaged properly when the fuel door is closed, preventing the door from unlocking.

Open the fuel door and on the inside of the door, there should be a tab positioned in a way that causes it to press in the switch inside when the door is closed. If this tab is broken or missing, simply attach something else there to press in the switch, and this will resolve the issue.

If the switch itself has failed (you can test it by manually pushing the switch in and seeing if the door unlocks when you do this), it will have to be replaced. The part number for this switch on 05-10 Odysseys is:
74380-SHJ-A01

This video shows the switch as well as how to replace it:

Final Notes:
If you are looking for even more detailed information about any of these repairs, use the search function of the forum and you can find dedicated threads and posts. This post is simply intended to point you in the right direction.

While models with manual sliding doors do not have the power release actuator or the rear latch assembly, they do still have the center roller and the fuel door interlock switch, so those issues are still relevant.

I had the same issue with my Odyssey's sliding door a while back, and it drove me nuts. The door would get stuck halfway, and I wasn't sure what was wrong. Turned out it was the center roller assembly. I replaced the whole thing with an OEM part, and it’s been smooth ever since. I tried the aftermarket roller first, but it didn’t last long. If you’re experiencing similar symptoms, I’d suggest going straight for the OEM replacement—saves a lot of headaches in the long run.

 

Here is a list of the Power Sliding Door DTC codes from my repair manual. I noticed they were hard to come by. Door DTC code can be displayed using the foil trick in this video: Honda Odyssey Power Sliding Door fix - CHEAP

DTC	Description
B2002	Left Power Sliding Door Control Unit EEPROM Error
B2005	Left Power Sliding Door Control Unit Lost Communication with MICU
B2007	Left Power Sliding Door Control Unit Lost Communication with Rear Junction Box Control Unit (RJU Message)
B2008	Left Power Sliding Door Control Unit Lost Communication with MICU (Front Passenger's Door Lock Switch Message)
B2010	Left Power Sliding Door Control Unit Lost Communication with Gauge Control Module (VSP/NE Message)
B2011	Left Power Sliding Door Control Unit Lost Communication with Gauge Control Module (A/T Message)
B2025	Left Power Sliding Door Switch (Open Side) Signal Error
B2026	Left Power Sliding Door Switch (Close Side) Signal Error
B2027	Left Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 1 Signal Error
B2028	Left Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 2 Signal Error
B2029	Left Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 3 Signal Error
B2030	Left Power Sliding Door Pinch Sensor Signal Error
B2031	Left Power Slide Motor Pulse (SLSE1) Signal Error
B2032	Left Power Slide Motor Pulse (SLSE2) Signal Error
B2033	Left Power Slide Motor Circuit Malfunction
B2034	Left Power Slide Motor Electromagnetic Clutch Circuit Malfunction
B2035	Left Power Sliding Door Half Latch Switch Circuit Short
B2036	Left Power Sliding Door Full Latch Switch Circuit Short
B2037	Left Power Sliding Door Ratchet Switch Circuit Short
B2038	Left Power Sliding Door Base Position Switch Circuit Open/Short
B2039	Left Power Sliding Door Switch Open/Close Signal Input Error (Input at the same time)
B2040	Left Power Slide Motor Malfunction
B2041	Left Power Slide Motor Pulse (SLSE1/SLSE2) Error
B2052	Right Power Sliding Door Control Unit EEPROM Error
B2055	Right Power Sliding Door Control Unit Lost Communication with MICU
B2058	Right Power Sliding Door Control Unit Lost Communication with MICU (ASLOCKSW Message)
B2059	Right Power Sliding Door Control Unit Lost Communication with Left Power Sliding Door Control Unit (PSD Message)
B2060	Right Power Sliding Door Control Unit Lost Communication with Gauge Control Module (VSP/NE Message)
B2061	Right Power Sliding Door Control Unit Lost Communication with Gauge Control Module (A/T Message)
B2076	Right Power Sliding Door Switch (Close Side) Signal Error
B2077	Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 1 Signal Error
B2078	Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 2 Signal Error
B2079	Right Power Sliding Door Remote Control Switch 3 Signal Error
B2080	Right Power Sliding Door Pinch Sensor Signal Error
B2081	Right Power Slide Motor Pulse (SLSE1) Signal Error
B2082	Right Power Slide Motor Pulse (SLSE2) Signal Error
B2083	Right Power Slide Motor Circuit Malfunction
B2084	Right Power Slide Motor Electromagnetic Clutch Circuit Malfunction
B2085	Right Power Sliding Door Half Latch Switch Circuit Short
B2086	Right Power Sliding Door Full Latch Switch Circuit Short
B2087	Right Power Sliding Door Ratchet Switch Circuit Short
B2088	Right Power Sliding Door Base Position Switch Circuit Open/Short
B2089	Right Power Sliding Door Switch Open/Close Signal Input Error (Input at the same time)
B2090	Right Power Slide Motor Malfunction
B2091	Right Power Sliding Door Motor Pulses (SLSE1/SLSE2) Error

Thank you to ChatGPT for converting the PDF table into BB Code 🤖

 

Just want to share this PDF for the complete troubleshooting the Honda Odyssey Sliding door. This will guide you to understand each electrical and mechanical components of the sliding door. This may also save you time to pinpoint exactly the issue before you start dismantling or removing parts. Have fun Doing yourself guys!

 

Issue: Driver side sliding door.

Likely cause based on the OP: Failed Fuel Door Interlock Switch

However, from all the videos and pictures that I've seen, almost all the cases were due the wire disconnecting from the plastic switch assembly.

Mine looks to be fine at that common failure point of it disconnecting.

When I pull the door handle it does beep 3 times, but there is no other noise or clicking. It just beeps and that's it.

The door lock does remain to stay locked. If I try to pull it up there is resistance and it goes back to the locked position.

I haven't removed the panels yet to unplug the 74380-SHJ-A01 unit to see if the door functions with it disconnected. Perhaps tomorrow. However if it doesn't work even after that then that's where I'm curious to see what else the cause could be?

Would you say that it's 99.9% for sure that it's a Failed Fuel Door Interlock Switch? If so, I'll just order the part without removing the panels.

Thanks


UPDATE:

Well how about that. So after I had posted this, out of curiosity I went out to try what it said in the OP ("..you can test it by manually pushing the switch in and seeing if the door unlocks when you do this ..) Sure enough that confirmed that the assembly wasn't actually bad, rather it was something else.

I opened the fuel door, pushed the pin in all the way and used the remote to unlock the doors. Once the doors unlocked (you can hear it), a second later I heard the driver side slider door lock again.

Then I looked at the fuel door and noticed that whatever pad/rubber bumper that was there had fallen off and was missing. So I quickly went into MacGyver mode (I assume and am pretty confident that most of us here will know what that means ha!) and grabbed one of these and it fit perfectly.

Now the pin pushes in all the way. Hurray.

Closed the fuel door, pulled the handle and Voilà. Like clock work.

Ok so now another issue. The remote doesn't work when I long pressing it to open the driver side sliding door. All other buttons work. Perhaps what really needs to be replaced is the controller box?

Thanks @WiiMaster for this thread and all those who have contributed.

 

Ok so now another issue. The remote doesn't work when I double press it so perhaps what really needs to be replaced is the controller box?

So none of the buttons on the remote work?

 

Having a queer issue with the passenger sliding door.

When disconnecting the battery and letting it reset, the passenger door works fine, both at the cockpit switch, and from outside, for about 10-15 minutes.

However, eventually the Slide Door light comes on, and the door no longer automatically opens form the switch or outside. Obviously, the #7 fuse is intact.

I’m thinking the issue is at the door itself.

 

However, eventually the Slide Door light comes on, and the door no longer automatically opens form the switch or outside.

Since you have the Slide Door light, find the post in this thread with the video for the "foil trick" (page 1 or 2). Follow the steps to blink out the body code(s) that are stored. Search this thread for the code, or post the code here for further assistance.

 

Brain fart and now Freudian slip? Sometimes a tight wife is no better! (I hate spill chick!)

 

Dumb spell check + typing from a phone keyboard.

Update: The sliding door has been working flawlessly.

 

The goal of this thread is to consolidate all the information about power sliding door issues that is spread out across the forum. While it will be primarily focused on the 3rd generation Odyssey (2005-2010), the basic ideas in this thread can be applied to all Odysseys with power sliding doors. To an extent, some information can even be relevant for models with manual sliding doors. This thread will not cover every possible issue, but most common issues will be covered, so check here first.

While there will be plenty of discussion in this thread, this first post contains the key information, so reading the rest of the thread (many pages) is not necessary. However, feel free to contribute to the discussion if you choose. You may find other helpful information in replies to the thread.

Preliminary Steps:
If you are encountering a problem with door movement, first make sure to follow these instructions to eliminate basic issues before continuing troubleshooting:
- Ensure that all 3 tracks (the upper track, center rail, and lower track) are clear of any blockages. It is especially common for debris to fall into the lower track during everyday use, which can interfere with door operation.

- The upper track should contain a rubber bumper at the rear end as shown below:
View attachment 173078
Ensure this bumper is present, as it could potentially cause issues if it isn't. If you need to replace this bumper, the part number is: 72557-S0X-A00. There are many videos on YouTube showing how to install it. It is very simple and only takes a few seconds.

- Make sure the rollers on all 3 tracks are properly lubricated. A white lithium grease is a good lubricant to use.

- Pull out the #7 fuse in the driver's footwell fuse box for 15-20 seconds and then reinsert it. Once it is reinserted, cycle the door once manually and then see if the issue is resolved.

Common Issues:
Worn Center Roller (very common) -
Possible Symptoms: Door movement is jerky, door will close partway and then reverse direction.

One way you can confirm this issue is by using the movement test shown in this video. It involves grabbing the rear end of the door when it is open and pulling it back and forth perpendicular to the direction the door normally moves in, checking for excessive play.

Repair: Repair or replace the center roller assembly.

There are two ways to fix this issue. You can either replace the roller assembly, or if you're feeling adventurous, members of this forum have had success with replacing just the nylon rollers on the assembly. @kernel has put together a page showing this process on his website.

If you choose to replace the roller assembly, there are several videos detailing the procedure. Here is one example, from EricTheCarGuy:

For the 05-10 Odyssey, the roller assembly part numbers are as follows:
Driver's side (left): 72561-SHJ-A21
Passenger's side (right): 72521-SHJ-A21

It is generally recommended to use an OEM assembly, as the aftermarket assemblies typically do not last long.

Failed Latch Actuator -
Possible Symptoms: When attempting to open or close the door, it makes a whine/groan noise, then fails to unlatch from the open or closed position. In some cases, the door may briefly whine/groan and then open with a loud popping sound.

Here is a video showing the symptoms of this problem, so you can see if it matches up with what you are experiencing.

Repair: Repair or replace the power release actuator (also known as the door latch actuator)

Although it does sometimes happen, it is very rare for anything to actually break inside this actuator. Inside the actuator is a small clutch pin. This clutch pin often gets stuck over time and doesn't move as easily as it should. This can be fixed by removing the actuator, opening it, and spraying the clutch pin and other gears inside with a white lithium or silicone spray grease. This repair is very effective and can last a long time. Here is a video that shows both the process of removing the actuator and performing this repair:

Alternatively, you can replace the actuator with a new part using the same instructions. The part number for the actuator for 05-10 Odysseys is as follows:
Driver's side (left): 72663-SHJ-A21
Passenger's side (right): 72623-SHJ-A21

There is no aftermarket replacement for this part.

Failed Rear Latch Assembly -
Possible Symptoms: Door gets pulled in too far when closing, pauses for a few seconds before releasing; Door doesn't latch when closing; 400 mA parasitic battery drain; Constant beep when van is put into gear with power sliding door main switch turned on; Slide Door light illuminated on dash; No response when attempting to open door

This is arguably the most involved common issue with the door, with many different potential symptoms that can arise from it. If one of your symptoms is seeing the Slide Door light illuminated on the dash, you can read the code using the "foil trick" that is shown in this video.

Repair: Repair or replace the rear latch assembly

Generally, there are two different things that go wrong in this assembly. Over time, the gears and levers in the assembly can seize due to a lack of lubrication and fail to engage the microswitches for the latch. Thus, when the door goes to close, the control module is waiting for a response from the microswitches that it never sees, so it stays awake indefinitely waiting for the response, causing a draw on the battery, and the vehicle no longer sees the door as being closed, resulting in a beep when putting the van in gear. The microswitches themselves can also fail, causing the same symptom.

The easiest way to fix this issue is to purchase a new rear latch assembly and install it. This is guaranteed to solve the issue. The part numbers for the rear latch assembly for 05-10 Odysseys are:
Driver's side (left): 72650-SHJ-A22
Passenger's side (right): 72610-SHJ-A22

There is no aftermarket replacement for this part.

However, the latch assembly can be expensive at around $250, so many opt to repair/recondition the existing assembly.

One of the simplest things to try is to lubricate the mechanism through the exterior bolt holes. If you look at the back edge of the door, you will see three bolts sticking out:
View attachment 173087

One bolt at a time, remove the bolt, spray some white lithium grease inside, and reinstall the bolt. Do this for all 3 bolts. Sometimes this can solve the issue.

Otherwise, you may need to remove the latch assembly from the door to solder in new microswitches and/or lubricate the mechanism so that the switch is engaged. This video shows the process of removing the assembly, testing, and replacing the microswitches:

Failed Fuel Door Interlock Switch -
Possible Symptoms: Driver's side sliding door does not unlock (3 beeps when trying to open); When trying to manually push up lock tab, the tab resists and returns to the locked position when released unless the tab is held in the unlocked position for several seconds.

Repair: Replace the fuel door interlock switch

In the fuel fill area, there is a switch that is designed to lock the driver's side sliding door when the fuel door is open to prevent the door from being opened, which could damage the fuel door. This switch can fail or not be engaged properly when the fuel door is closed, preventing the door from unlocking.

Open the fuel door and on the inside of the door, there should be a tab positioned in a way that causes it to press in the switch inside when the door is closed. If this tab is broken or missing, simply attach something else there to press in the switch, and this will resolve the issue.

If the switch itself has failed (you can test it by manually pushing the switch in and seeing if the door unlocks when you do this), it will have to be replaced. The part number for this switch on 05-10 Odysseys is:
74380-SHJ-A01

This video shows the switch as well as how to replace it:

Final Notes:
If you are looking for even more detailed information about any of these repairs, use the search function of the forum and you can find dedicated threads and posts. This post is simply intended to point you in the right direction.

While models with manual sliding doors do not have the power release actuator or the rear latch assembly, they do still have the center roller and the fuel door interlock switch, so those issues are still relevant.

for some reason - i don't have these rubber bumper on both of my sliding door. Not aware of these bumpers so don't know how long it's been gone. I ordered online and supposed to be coming today (11/1/2024). found the code B2088 using the foil trick. I Also lubed the rear latch via the three bolts and will check later if this works and if not, I'll prepare myself for the next procedure (remove panel etc. etc. etc.)

 

Those rubber bumpers are discussed here often. They usually melt into a goo or fall off. Most buy them from Amazon. A rare recommendation to buy a part from Amazon.

 

Reset everything , installed the new rubber bumper, lubed the the passenger side rear latch via the three bolts. it works but didn't last after a couple of close/open check up. The check door message re-appear. I know the code now (B2088) so will schedule myself for the next procedure to open the door panel and do some surgery myself. Thanks everyone for time and all your contributions here to make this club really great.

 

Yes, it sounds like you do have an actually failed switch.

 

Those rubber bumpers are discussed here often. They usually melt into a goo or fall off. Most buy them from Amazon. A rare recommendation to buy a part from Amazon.

OMG i do remember that. I thought it must be from a plane above and it hit my van. it was very sticky dropping down the inside back edge of my pasenger sliding door. But I didn't it happen on the driver side. No traced of it. must have fell off by itself.

$278 at Majestic

Thanks thscott! having a second thought of replacing everything if that little switch was the only issue. I may try replacing only the switch or once i open it up and found something else that may change. I'll report back as soon as I'm able

 

Finally after almost a year of manually opening and closing the passenger sliding door. I may have successfully fixed my sliding door by the help of everyone here who contributed their time and effort. I don't see that "CHECk SLIDE- RIGHT PASSENGER DOOR" MESSAGE" anymore. II was not planning to fix it today. My plan is to simply open the interior panel in advance prior to the arrival of the Digikey parts that I have ordered that still need to be shipped. So I took out the rear latch assembly and started looking on it. Removed the black plastic cover and reveal what's inside.

1. Those white stuff was the white lithium grease that I put via holes from the three bolts.

2. Closed-up look of the white lithium grease. It pretty much cover the mechanism but didn't work for me. I think try WD40 generously first . I think that's what happen with some of the guys who was able to make it work and may have helped wash away some tough grimes.

3. When I first open the assembly, this is what it looks like. The green arrow shows the Micro-switch in close position. Which is normal. The red arrow shows it on close position which it should not be. it should be in open position. So there must be something wrong with the mechanism around that area and is stuck in close position.

4. So here I started cleaning them up thoroughly . Showered it with WD40

5. This is how far I can get to clean up every nook and cranny. I focused at these areas where I found some tough grimes. Used compressed air in can (usually use for Personal computer) to blow away some dirt. Recommended to use a bit powerful air compressor that can continue blowing air.

6. Make multiple cycles of pushing this up and down (red arrow below) . I think when this is all the way down, it means it was electronically locked down. When I'm manually pushing this down, I felt some heavy resistance but after a thorough cleaning it went away and a bit smoother after that. I'm also using my probe to operate the center mechanism to put the micro-switch (Blue arrow below) in open position. You can unscrew this micro-switch to test it if you don't have the probe

7. So after all this cleaning, I started checking each micro-switch and seems all are working fine to my surprise. There's continuity (see other videos on how to test these switches) on each of them when tested. There should be continuity if the lever is depressed on a NO (Normally Open) switch and if lever is up on a NC (Normally Close) switch. I tested it multiple times to make sure. Here showing my Probe connected to my old car battery. There no way you can rotate this center mechanism manually unless you unscrew and pull out the switch to check for continuity.

So I re-installed the rear latch assembly. Reset the DTC first before anything else. Then did multiple cycles of opening and closing using the buttons on the dashboard, from remote key and from door handles. Everything seems working now as it was before. i don't see the error message coming back. So think I succesfully did it correctly and if ever I will report back here. Thanks everyone for all your inputs. I didn't only saved hundreds of dollars but also gain some self-respect. Thanks everyone!

 

Minor technical note- those are switches, not micro-chips.
Good job on cleaning it up and fixing your problem.

So after all this cleaning, I started checking each micro-chips and seems all are working fine to my surprise. There's continuity on each of them when tested.

Not surprising actually. There are two types of switches, either NO Normally Open or NC Normally Closed. And in testing your switches are both Closed showing Continuity. The NO switch will show Continuity when the lever is depressed. The NC will open and not show continuity when the lever is depressed.

 

A new problem has arisen after I thought I already fixed my sliding door. Hoping this may have been discussed here or got resolved. The next morning, with the power switch is still on. I tried testing it again by pushing the button on the dashboard but nothing happens. pulling the door handles didn't do anything and same thing by using the remote but I can use my remote to lock and unlock all doors. Car battery is fully charged. No beep when opening both sliding doors manually even when the power switch in on. Did I do something wrong during the re-installation? if replacing the micro-switches will solve this? Or better buy the whole assembly this time. Any advise will greatly be appreciated .

On the other note. I received an email from Digikey saying that my order will be cancel unless I provide further information. it appears that my name has a close match to a US denied party. I called them to clarify but they didn't say much and I provided them my information by phone instead of simply emailing the information. I don't usually think about cybersecurity but when i do, it's usually too late . so hope I get them before this weekend and replace the micro-switches if this will eventually put this sliding door issue to rest.

 

A new problem arises after I thougt I already fixed my sliding door. Hoping this may have been discussed here or got resolved. The next morning, with the power switch is still on. I tried testing it again by pushing the button on the dashboard but nothing happens. pulling the door handles didn't do anything and same thing by using the remote but I can use my remote to lock and unlock all doors. Car battery is fully charged. No beep when opening both sliding doors manually even when the power switch in on. Did I do something wrong during the re-installation? if replacing the micro-switches will solve this? Or better buy the whole assembly this time. Any advise will greatly be appreciated .

On the other note. I received an email from Digikey saying that my order will be cancel unless I provide further information. it appears that my name has a close match to a US denied party. I called them to clarify but they didn't say much and I provided them my information by phone instead of simply emailing the information. I don't usually think about cybersecurity but when i do, it's usually too late . so hope I get them before this weekend and replace the micro-switches if this will eventually put this sliding door issue to rest.

My only suggestion would be to try pulling fuse #7 for a couple minutes and then reinstall. See if that clears your issue.

 

My only suggestion would be to try pulling fuse #7 for a couple minutes and then reinstall. See if that clears your issue.

I pulled fuse # 7 and didn't change anything. Doesn't throw any DTC code. Car Battery is stil fully charged. Still waiting for my Digikey order to arrived.

My only suggestion would be to try pulling fuse #7 for a couple minutes and then reinstall. See if that clears your issue.

i pulled fuse #7 and didn’t change anything. Doesn’t throw any DTC code. Car battery is still fully charged. Waiting for the Digikey order to arrived

 

the next day I went to test my sliding doors again and they all still working fine. So I think I will consider that my sliding door issue has been solved for now. Will definitely check in here again if something new happens. Thanks everyone!

 

Yesterday that familiar lights came off for drivers s side sliding door. So will work on that once I get a chance. It’s still fresh in my mind what I did on the other sliding door.. hope everything goes well. I’ll report if I encounter something different on this side.

 

Hi all! I haven't seen this issue addressed and I am very stuck. I am halfway through the middle roller replacement, but the cables are not reaching all the way back despite heavy force and pulling. I'm about a half inch away. So I went in and took apart the passenger side to take the tension off the cables by popping up the two white tabs. But still no closer even after releasing the tension. I would be very grateful if anyone has thoughts or suggestions and I apologize if I missed a previous thread on this!

 

You may have to pull out the pully to see if any wires jumped the groove causing the line to be "short".

 

Hello, stumbled across this great thread trying to fix my mother-in-laws passenger door. I've taken the latch mechanism out and checked / adjusted the switches. One of the switch actuators was a bit out of shape, but otherwise everything checks out. The door works fine, until it doesn't. I reset the car by pulling the battery terminal and re-entering the radio code. The door(s) both work with the dash switches, key fob, and handles, both inside and out. The problem occurs when someone tries to 'force' the door, rather than letting the mechanism do the work. As soon as someone pulls on either of the handles (inside or out), the door will not operate and it throws a MIL. Reset the car, the code is gone and the door works fine. Apparently, something in the act of 'forcing' the door to move ahead of when it wants to sets it off. When you manually close / open the door, the 'beep' happens, the door resists your efforts, and it just plain wont work properly. If you release the tension from trying to close the door by force, the beep stops and you can operate it manually. I just read about the 'foil' trick, so I dont know what the actual code it throws is yet. Since the issue happens when forcing the mechanism to move when it is trying to move on its own, I was thinking it my be some issue with the motor or a sensor thereof. I have not replaced the middle track guide - could that be the sole issue?

 

Who knows how I can fix that my passenger side door doesn’t open all the way?
don’t have the issue on driver side.

update: I’m too tired to read and can’t figure out how to straight up delete comment.

 

Who knows how I can fix that my passenger side door doesn’t open all the way?
don’t have the issue on driver side.

update: I’m too tired to read and can’t figure out how to straight up delete comment.

Too tired to read? You must be a dad.

 

You cannot delete. You can click the 3 dots on your post, click Edit, and then remove or change the text. Closest thing to a delete is a reply with just a dot. Many will just change their post to a single word: deleted

 

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The goal of this thread is to consolidate all the information about power sliding door issues that is spread out across the forum. While it will be primarily focused on the 3rd generation Odyssey (2005-2010), the basic ideas in this thread can be applied to all Odysseys with power sliding doors. To an extent, some information can even be relevant for models with manual sliding doors. This thread will not cover every possible issue, but most common issues will be covered, so check here first.

While there will be plenty of discussion in this thread, this first post contains the key information, so reading the rest of the thread (many pages) is not necessary. However, feel free to contribute to the discussion if you choose. You may find other helpful information in replies to the thread.

Preliminary Steps:
If you are encountering a problem with door movement, first make sure to follow these instructions to eliminate basic issues before continuing troubleshooting:
- Ensure that all 3 tracks (the upper track, center rail, and lower track) are clear of any blockages. It is especially common for debris to fall into the lower track during everyday use, which can interfere with door operation.

- The upper track should contain a rubber bumper at the rear end as shown below:
View attachment 173078
Ensure this bumper is present, as it could potentially cause issues if it isn't. If you need to replace this bumper, the part number is: 72557-S0X-A00. There are many videos on YouTube showing how to install it. It is very simple and only takes a few seconds.

- Make sure the rollers on all 3 tracks are properly lubricated. A white lithium grease is a good lubricant to use.

- Pull out the #7 fuse in the driver's footwell fuse box for 15-20 seconds and then reinsert it. Once it is reinserted, cycle the door once manually and then see if the issue is resolved.

Common Issues:
Worn Center Roller (very common) -
Possible Symptoms: Door movement is jerky, door will close partway and then reverse direction.

One way you can confirm this issue is by using the movement test shown in this video. It involves grabbing the rear end of the door when it is open and pulling it back and forth perpendicular to the direction the door normally moves in, checking for excessive play.

Repair: Repair or replace the center roller assembly.

There are two ways to fix this issue. You can either replace the roller assembly, or if you're feeling adventurous, members of this forum have had success with replacing just the nylon rollers on the assembly. @kernel has put together a page showing this process on his website.

If you choose to replace the roller assembly, there are several videos detailing the procedure. Here is one example, from EricTheCarGuy:

For the 05-10 Odyssey, the roller assembly part numbers are as follows:
Driver's side (left): 72561-SHJ-A21
Passenger's side (right): 72521-SHJ-A21

It is generally recommended to use an OEM assembly, as the aftermarket assemblies typically do not last long.

Failed Latch Actuator -
Possible Symptoms: When attempting to open or close the door, it makes a whine/groan noise, then fails to unlatch from the open or closed position. In some cases, the door may briefly whine/groan and then open with a loud popping sound.

Here is a video showing the symptoms of this problem, so you can see if it matches up with what you are experiencing.

Repair: Repair or replace the power release actuator (also known as the door latch actuator)

Although it does sometimes happen, it is very rare for anything to actually break inside this actuator. Inside the actuator is a small clutch pin. This clutch pin often gets stuck over time and doesn't move as easily as it should. This can be fixed by removing the actuator, opening it, and spraying the clutch pin and other gears inside with a white lithium or silicone spray grease. This repair is very effective and can last a long time. Here is a video that shows both the process of removing the actuator and performing this repair:

Alternatively, you can replace the actuator with a new part using the same instructions. The part number for the actuator for 05-10 Odysseys is as follows:
Driver's side (left): 72663-SHJ-A21
Passenger's side (right): 72623-SHJ-A21

There is no aftermarket replacement for this part.

Failed Rear Latch Assembly -
Possible Symptoms: Door gets pulled in too far when closing, pauses for a few seconds before releasing; Door doesn't latch when closing; 400 mA parasitic battery drain; Constant beep when van is put into gear with power sliding door main switch turned on; Slide Door light illuminated on dash; No response when attempting to open door

This is arguably the most involved common issue with the door, with many different potential symptoms that can arise from it. If one of your symptoms is seeing the Slide Door light illuminated on the dash, you can read the code using the "foil trick" that is shown in this video.

Repair: Repair or replace the rear latch assembly

Generally, there are two different things that go wrong in this assembly. Over time, the gears and levers in the assembly can seize due to a lack of lubrication and fail to engage the microswitches for the latch. Thus, when the door goes to close, the control module is waiting for a response from the microswitches that it never sees, so it stays awake indefinitely waiting for the response, causing a draw on the battery, and the vehicle no longer sees the door as being closed, resulting in a beep when putting the van in gear. The microswitches themselves can also fail, causing the same symptom.

The easiest way to fix this issue is to purchase a new rear latch assembly and install it. This is guaranteed to solve the issue. The part numbers for the rear latch assembly for 05-10 Odysseys are:
Driver's side (left): 72650-SHJ-A22
Passenger's side (right): 72610-SHJ-A22

There is no aftermarket replacement for this part.

However, the latch assembly can be expensive at around $250, so many opt to repair/recondition the existing assembly.

One of the simplest things to try is to lubricate the mechanism through the exterior bolt holes. If you look at the back edge of the door, you will see three bolts sticking out:
View attachment 173087

One bolt at a time, remove the bolt, spray some white lithium grease inside, and reinstall the bolt. Do this for all 3 bolts. Sometimes this can solve the issue.

Otherwise, you may need to remove the latch assembly from the door to solder in new microswitches and/or lubricate the mechanism so that the switch is engaged. This video shows the process of removing the assembly, testing, and replacing the microswitches:

Failed Fuel Door Interlock Switch -
Possible Symptoms: Driver's side sliding door does not unlock (3 beeps when trying to open); When trying to manually push up lock tab, the tab resists and returns to the locked position when released unless the tab is held in the unlocked position for several seconds.

Repair: Replace the fuel door interlock switch

In the fuel fill area, there is a switch that is designed to lock the driver's side sliding door when the fuel door is open to prevent the door from being opened, which could damage the fuel door. This switch can fail or not be engaged properly when the fuel door is closed, preventing the door from unlocking.

Open the fuel door and on the inside of the door, there should be a tab positioned in a way that causes it to press in the switch inside when the door is closed. If this tab is broken or missing, simply attach something else there to press in the switch, and this will resolve the issue.

If the switch itself has failed (you can test it by manually pushing the switch in and seeing if the door unlocks when you do this), it will have to be replaced. The part number for this switch on 05-10 Odysseys is:
74380-SHJ-A01

This video shows the switch as well as how to replace it:

Final Notes:
If you are looking for even more detailed information about any of these repairs, use the search function of the forum and you can find dedicated threads and posts. This post is simply intended to point you in the right direction.

While models with manual sliding doors do not have the power release actuator or the rear latch assembly, they do still have the center roller and the fuel door interlock switch, so those issues are still relevant.

Daaaaamn, this is a great post. Thank you. Received quote from shop for $570 to replace the center roller. Realize after this post, I can do this for the cost of the part and I have no problem putting it in, especially given this great write up. Thank you!

 

Hello friends, what a wealth of information in this thread! Had an issue where the drivers side sliding door stopped working and would not open no matter what I tried. Read about the micro switches in the door latch/pull in mechanism getting stuck so I tried spraying inside the latch assembly with WD-40 and low and behold it solved the problem! On a separate note, today I replaced both roller the assemblies with an aftermarket part that uses metal bearing rollers instead of the nylon rollers. After taking the old assembly out of the track and pulling out on the cables to make some slack, I placed a small bar clamp on the rear cable to hold it in place. This made disconnecting the rear cable out of old roller assembly very easy and inserting the cables into the new roller assembly easy as well. The assemblies with metal rollers were found an Amazon the price was 29.00 for the set.

 

today I replaced both roller the assemblies with an aftermarket part that uses metal bearing rollers instead of the nylon rollers.
-
The assemblies with metal rollers were found an Amazon the price was 29.00 for the set

How did the rollers feel? I'm in. I don't even care about the risk.

Opinion and link?

 

The rollers feel solid and move smooth as a bearing roller should. Though tighter on the install than the ones with nylon/ plastic rollers (Have to work it a bit to get it in the track as the metal bearings don't flex) once in the door has minimal play and slides nicely.

 

interested in these also, were they much louder?

 

This seems to be a really good find! Thank you.