[aimeecherie]

My 2010 Ody door is literally stuck closed. And it’s not the child safety switch. The door started acting up like the motor was going bad & it wouldn’t shut. We weren’t home & needed to drive so my husband slammed it shut manually. Ever since then it won’t open. It will open about half an inch on the back end of the door, but it acts like the latch is stuck in the front end & won‘t disengage. We have tried all the resets & fuse things. We are getting 2 Power Slide Door Left ECU Codes- B2031 & B2032 (PSD Drive motor Sensor 1 & 2 pulse signal input error) We have pulled the panel off from inside & can’t get to the latch or find any way of forcing the door open. Mechanic friend said they won’t even touch it - when they see that problem they send people straight to Honda dealership & it costs $2000 to fix. I’m not putting $2000 into a 10 year old vehicle just to fix a door. Anyone have any experience with this or how to get it open??

 

[OdysseyMan1223]

If you have a scan tool I would write down all the codes and then try to reset them. Most of the time this is caused by a failure of one of the switches in the rear door latch. They often set a code but not always. If none of those codes you mentioned stay after clearing then I wouldn't worry about it. The only way I know to figure out what is going on is to use a better scan tool that can do more and it can see the position of all the switches in the rear door latches. I had this happen to my van but no codes. I took fuses out and disconnected the battery also for a good while.

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[aimeecherie]

We put new fuses in & tried the battery cable thing with no luck. Is leaving the battery disconnected for a longer time going to fix this? And clearing the codes isn’t going to fix it is it?

 

[OdysseyMan1223]

It might reset the switches after clearing the codes but, it might not change anything. Something else happened, I'm not sure what but I bet a switch got messed up or maybe something with the motor. Did you trust opening it manually? With switches off before you cut power?

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[kernel]

As I posted in your other thread, it's probably the center roller assembly that needs repair or replacement. Resetting the codes ain't gonna fix a busted roller! If the rollers are good, then the bottom rear latch switches seem to be a common issue on the 3rd generation sliding doors.

 

[aimeecherie]

It won't budge. Can't open it manually. That's why we think the latch is stuck. We hear it unlock, so it's not the lock.

 

[aimeecherie]

I've had the roller replaced before. It's either that or the motor. But we can't fix it if we can't even open the door. So frustrating.

 

[kernel]

Is this the drivers side or passenger? Ah, your code in the first post says left side. Could be that the fuel door interlock may be broken, keeping the door from opening. There are threads in the 3rd Gen section that address this problem.

 

[aimeecherie]

Nope! Tried that too!

 

[netman88]

I just having the same issue this last week. I sent the van to the local Honda dealer and they said the cabling connecting it is rushed out so the connections would not work. Replacing and left driver side slide door tear down and troubleshooting is $175 diag fee + $900 for repair and parts. Still waiting for it to be fixed.

 

[MN Murph]

I'm assuming you had to take this to a dealer or learn to live with it? Dang sliding door did this a week after replacing the center roller.

 

[aimeecherie]

I'm assuming you had to take this to a dealer or learn to live with it? Dang sliding door did this a week after replacing the center roller.

We lived with for several months. I’ve heard it’s quite expensive to fix this problem. $900-2000. Then a few months ago began to have a parasitic drain on the battery, which seems to point back to the door. Pulled the fuse for the door & no more battery drain. But none of the doors or windows work now. I bought a new car. Still trying to figure out what to do with the van. The cost of the fix just didn’t seem worth it. Van is only worth $3500.