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Hello,

I very recently bought an ’05 Honda Odyssey EX with about 200k miles. One of the first issues to come up is with the passenger side power sliding door. I’ve been reading posts and watching videos ‘til I can barely see straight, and I’m very frustrated because despite the fact that this seems to be a VERY common issue with ’05 Odysseys, there remains a lot of ambiguity about what the problem is (or are) and what to do about it.

I decided to start a new topic because within all related threads I’ve seen, and there are plenty, there are so many opinions, so many add-ons from folks with “the exact same problem” but which often is not the case, and so often a lack of a clear problem description or even an exact year and trim level mentioned, that I thought that trying to limit the discussion by starting with a good description of the problem I’m experiencing with my vehicle would give me the best chance of a solution, not to mention others who really have the identical issue. So my apologies to anyone who thinks I’m re-covering old ground.

Here’s what I observed as best as I can explain and remember. There are a lot of knowledgeable folks on this site, and I could use some expertise.

First: 2005 Honda Odyssey EX, no RES, no NAV, no leather. 200k miles, single owner (before me), garaged in the Midwest. Car is very clean, everything seems to work except for this issue.

A few days ago I noticed when the dash PSD switch was on, the passenger sliding door would alarm (constant tone) anytime the shifter was in anything other than Park or Neutral. The door was closed, and securely as far as I could tell, but the behavior of the alarm matched exactly what the owner’s manual says it would do if the door was “opening.” I don’t know about the significance of the door opening (it wasn’t) but it seemed to me that it would make sense that the alarm would behave that way if it thought the door was open. But as I said, it was closed, yet the alarm kept sounding anyway. The only way to stop it was to switch the dash switch to off when I was driving. BTW, the alarm, when it sounded, was NOT accompanied by any dash lights or other warnings.

During this time, if I turned the switch back to on when I wasn’t actually driving, or even when the car was completely off, all doors worked as expected with all handles, dash switch, and key fob.

Within two days, before I had time to do anything, the problem got worse. This is what I observed next.

When I drove, with the dash PSD switch Off because of the alarm of course, intermittently the interior lights would come on spontaneously (indicating an open door), along with the red bar on the dash schematic car diagram showing the right PSD door position. These lights would go on and off somewhat willy-nilly. A sharp turn or a hard braking could influence it. I parked the car to investigate. I found that if I opened the PSD and closed it again, the door would be considered closed. But when I got back in the car, the open door signaling would begin instantly. I eventually figured out that the air pressure caused by my closing the driver’s door with the windows closed was enough to push out the right PSD sufficiently for the car to think the door was ajar. Walking back around to look, the door did look ajar—the back part of the door (nearer the rear) was outward from alignment with the body by an inch or two. I could push it closed just by pushing on that part of the door perpendicular to the vehicle. (Until, that is, I took a sharp turn or closed my door with the windows shut.)

Later that night things deteriorated further. I noticed that if I closed the PSD (manually or electronically), the door closer would pull the door in tight, but about 2-3 seconds later the door would pop back out again. It would always do this now, and could not be kept in a truly closed position.

It was at this point that I panicked a bit and started trying any reset procedure I could find online. Not smart I admit, and it was around this time I realized that well-meaning posters often don’t consistently identify fuse numbers, descriptions, or locations and frequently fail to appreciate that the fuse numbers and locations on THEIR Odyssey are not necessarily the same as the ones on the car of the poster asking for help.

Anyway it would be impossible to remember and describe the car’s behavior and everything I did from this point. But here’s the status right now.

I was able to get the right PSD to close and lock by pushing it closed, and then within those 2-3 seconds before the car regurgitated the back end of the door out again, quickly pulled Fuse # 8 in the passenger footwell (20A yellow; “R PSD CLOSER”).

All other fuses, if they were pulled, are in their original positions, and now the behavior is thus:

Neither PSD functions electronically at all, not by handle, nor dash switch, nor key fob, even when all doors are unlocked and dash switch is On. (I hope this can be reset once all issues are fixed.) The left (driver’s side) PSD can be opened and closed manually. I don’t dare even touch the right PSD, now that it is closed, locked, and secured.

Doors can be locked and unlocked normally. No lights or alarms of any kind, no matter what gear I’m in or whether the main dash PSD switch is on or off.

And that is the up-to-the-second status, as thoroughly and accurately as I can describe it.

There are two very long threads on this site, one describing a failed servomotor or sticky servomotor camshaft, and the other describing a switch failure with a “Radio-Shack-Solution.” With 100+ posts in each there is ambiguity and overlap in both, but I think my issue most likely falls into one of those two categories. Beyond that, I won’t speculate further so as not to unduly influence the keen analytical skills of the many fine folks who selflessly share their knowledge on this site.

Help?!

THANK YOU!! And sorry for such a long post.
 

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Welcome to this forum. I agree this is a very complex, common and confusing topic. Needless to say, both random alarm issues and side door issues are very common. There are usually multiple posts each day about these issues on this forum. It's hard for me to determinate what the root cause of your issue is.

I was recently exasperated with random alarms to the point the I disabled the alarm system from activating by jumpering the hood switch connector. The alarm system thinks the hood is always open, so it never arms the alarm. I did this as a temporary solution until I figure out the root cause, which I think is moisture.

I also replaced all 4 door "plunger" switches - this was inexpensive and easy to do. Doing this on my front driver's door seems to have stoipped the door from unlocking randomly, especially on turns and when I would lightly push on the door from the inside, such as with my left knee. I would recommend you consider doing this.

The side sliding doors are very prone to roller failures (mechanical) and electrical (micro-switch) failure with the rear latch module. The latter causes very erratic door behavior and is often accompanied with a 0.4 amp parasitic battery drain.

There is also a door lock/latch module in the front driver's door that acts a master unit for all the door locks. It is common for this part to fail (usually due to moisture from water intrusion) that causes random door issues and alarms. I have replaced this part twice on my 2010 due to random alarms. I think it keeps getting wet.

Good luck!
 

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That long thread with the switches has a video on page 6 post 116, showing how to pull the code if the Slider Door light stays on. (Might store a code even without the light staying on) Pull the code and it may point to the problem.
If no code (or even if there is a code!) check the center rollers. On one side of my van the rollers were crap and I did the $5 repair. The other side, rollers were still good- but the hinge was stiff. This caused my door to occasionally report 'Open' and would frequently drain the battery overnight until we switched the interior lights to always off.
On my brother's '07, one side the rollers were good, but the other side rollers needed repair. His doors are now good with no issues.
Stiff hinge could cause your problem, or it could be the latch assembly needs cleaning/lubricating. Still having issues, move on to diagnosing bottom rear micro-switches as per the video.
 

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The Odyssey sliding doors are very complicated. There are a few common failures, but also a few more uncommon failures. You really have to diagnose them carefully based on the symptoms. There are few aftermarket parts, so throwing parts at the problem gets expensive fast. Also, the different names for the different components can be confusing, so you may end up replacing the wrong part.
 

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but about 2-3 seconds later the door would pop back out again. It would always do this now, and could not be kept in a truly closed position.
Not a solution, just a question:

Is there any correlation between the outside temperature and the popping of the door? My 06 EX-L often - but not always - exhibits the rear-pop symptom when the temperature is roughly 30°F or below. It's gotten worse this year to the point that I don't use the driver's side power door when it's under 35°F. It's only me that uses it, so it's more of an annoyance than anything else.

If you are seeing the same correlation, I'll be following this thread closely. I'm not going to try and find the problem during the winter (not worth the trouble to me) but if I gain/steal some knowledge from someone else chasing the same low-temp related issue, I may consider employing the same repair once the weather warms up. :)
 

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Open the door and try your spray lubricant of choice in the rear latch. It's possible that water had gotten into the latch and is freezing it up in the cold temps.

It's mostly missing in the pic below, but there's supposed to be a little stuck-on foam fairing around the two upper bolts to help direct rain away from the latch guts.

153754
 

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I had a 2005 and it did the trick where the door sucks way in and then releases a couple of seconds later. It started doing it right after I replaced center rollers. And I just fiddled with it a bunch and it went away. Pretty weird.

I feel like if the door is sucking in and then releasing, it's pretty much gotta be the ($$$) rear latch assembly. But I'm not sure it's the base position microswitch. Maybe it's one of the other microswitches, or maybe it's something mechanical in the latch that is binding up.
 

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Open the door and try your spray lubricant of choice in the rear latch. It's possible that water had gotten into the latch and is freezing it up in the cold temps.

It's mostly missing in the pic below, but there's supposed to be a little stuck-on foam fairing around the two upper bolts to help direct rain away from the latch guts.
I'll give that a try. I'd run out and check the foam around the rear bolts, but I don't want to right now. I'd have to brush the snow off first. ☹
 

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I had a 2005 and it did the trick where the door sucks way in and then releases a couple of seconds later. It started doing it right after I replaced center rollers. And I just fiddled with it a bunch and it went away. Pretty weird.
Fiddled with what, exactly? There's an awful lot to fiddle with on those doors. :oops:

Did you mean you fiddled with the hinge/rollers? When I replaced my door motor, I replaced the center rollers too. I marked the location of the mount to ensure that I put everything back exactly where it was.

In any case, my door was doing the rear-pop-when-cold thing prior to the replacement of the motor, so, at least for me, I don't think that's the cause.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you all! Let me try to reply to everything so far.
1. Those water-protecting pieces from the photo? They came off in my hand (both doors) as I was investigating, but they were there up until now. But there's no foam, just a hard rubber piece. Is that piece part of a larger thing? It goes all the way around the opening, but I can't see how it keeps much out.
2. Temp 30? I've had the car less than two weeks, and the temp has been right around there the whole time, so, maybe?
3. Lube In the Hole! Yes, I did try that, no effect.
Keep the ideas coming!
Thank you.
 

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Just an update on my situation. I'm not trying to hijack this thread, but OIB could be having the same weather related issue that I am having since he is having problems with his driver's door and it's cold where he lives too. Correlated to the temperature? Not sure yet.

Earlier in this thread I mentioned that my driver's side slider often exhibits the rear pop issue when it's cold out. I avoid using it below 35°F.

Yesterday it dropped into the high teens, so when I left work, I used the passenger side slider - no issues. Later in the evening, with the temps around 14°F, I attempted to open the passenger slider with the fob. It made some noise, but did not open. I pressed close and it made the "opposite" noise but still didn't move. I turned off the dash switch and (gently) tried to open it manually but it didn't budge. At this point, I'm assuming it's frozen shut. I have never had a problem with the passenger door before. Although it doesn't get used anywhere near as often, I will add that whenever I've tried the passenger door in the same weather as when the driver's door is "rearing popping", the passenger door has always worked.

This morning (still 14°F) I am getting the long "door open" alarm but without the door open indicator on the dash. I used the dash button to try and "close" the door(s). No sound, so it appears that the Ody thinks the doors are closed tight but I still get the door open alarm when in drive.

I have some very important activities this evening, for which I need the Ody, so I don't dare trying to open either slider for fear of ending up with a door that doesn't close. Did I mention that it's 14°F outside? :(

Maybe tomorrow I'll warm the van up and see what happens. No temps above freezing until late next week.

Further Update

17°F now. I warmed up the car for the 4th time today. This time, the dash light for "passenger slider open" came on as did the interior lights. I turned on the slider power switch, pressed "Close" and heard a single click. The dash light and interior lights went off.

3°F difference can't be the difference because the Ody was driven over 15 miles 3 times with the heat blasting then left to sit for 4 hours. Only after warming it up (remote start) for the 4th time did the dash light come on and I was able to "close" the door. Obviously there is different sensor that turns the light on vs. causes the steady beep alarm.

Could that lead us to a solution?
 

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IMHO. Prefer "shorter" more concise stories. (but that may just be me). Like the old movies, "just the facts lady". Seems detailed, factual, problems, Get better more accurate solutions.
Quicker.
Good luck. :)
 

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Like the old movies, "just the facts lady".
Quicker.
And it was the Dragnet TV show. 30 minutes, shorter than a movie! Even Quicker!:giggle:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Dragnet?! Good thing no one is trying to hijack the thread. :)
Anyway, DD03, a lot of what you describe, but not all, matches what I've seen. (My problem is with the passenger PSD, not the driver's side, but we'll let that, er, slide, so to speak.)
The suggestion to check the code is a good one, and I will try to do that as soon as I have the chance.
I'm getting the impression, though, that all these issues are truly unique, and that every one is likely a combination of various issues, each of which has various solutions, and with confounding and inconsistent symptoms that make pinning anything down with certainty very, very difficult.
For now, I have a single question. Not necessarily the last one, though!
Remember, this is a Honda Odyssey 2005 EX.
On the passenger side power sliding door, where exactly is/are the sensor(s) that detect whether or not the door is open or closed?
Thank you!
 

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Hey, you guys are "showing your age", Dragnet. I bet most posters, have no idea who or what we are talking about.
:)
 

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OIB: Sorry for the hijack, but Joe Friday (the Jack Webb version) would want to be sure that we had the facts correct.

And it was the Dragnet TV show. 30 minutes, shorter than a movie! Even Quicker!:giggle:
Actually, it was said in a movie.

First some history: There was a Dragnet movie in 1954, starring Jack Webb as the original Joe Friday. There was also a made-for-TV movie in 1966 and comedy remake in 1987 starring Dan Aykroyd and Tom Hanks.

The real question is this: Did Jack Webb's Joe Friday actually use that exact phrase? It seems that he used different versions: “All we want are the facts, ma’am” and “All we know are the facts, ma’am” but he never said "Just the facts, ma'am".

However, Dan Aykroyd's Joe Friday did use that exact phrase in the 1987 comedy movie, after popular media had altered Webb's actual phrases many years earlier, causing it to be attributed to Jack Webb's Joe Friday.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I am perfectly familiar with the reference, and all shows and movies it relates to. The REAL question is can we please stop talking about it because I've still got a broken car to deal with and anyone who might be able to help probably stopped reading at about Post # 11 1/2.
My current outstanding question:
On a 2005 Honda Odyssey EX, on the passenger side power sliding door, where exactly is/are the sensor(s) that detect whether or not the door is open or closed?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
OK, I checked the Honda proprietary codes using the Aluminum Foil Trick. One code only: b1222 with 51 in the right hand corner of the odometer display. This seems to be for the rear a/c unit. If so, I'll ignore for now, unless anyone thinks b1222 might be related to the door?
 
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