You may be correct. My old 2001 LX, manual sliding doors. Already replaced, the sliding door "rollers". Because, they are "Manual", I notice very quickly, when they are starting to "drag", or make a slight grinding noise. (so lubricate asap).Your problems sound very familiar. I have owned 4 Honda Odysseys: a '99, (2) 04s, and at present, an '08. Each Ody has had power-sliding-door problems. It has been my experience that ALL of the door problems have had a root cause: the plastic rollers that hold the weight of the door until it locks up. They are the least expensive element in the system that you can also replace yourself, if you are handy. When these rollers are worn, they not only case drag on the sliding door, but they also cause misalignment of the locks, latches, and door contacts. Unless the rollers have recently been replaced, I would start there. I have replaced motors, cables, and contacts, all caused by worn-out plastic rollers.
You might want to run that by the manufacturer and see if they agree...WD40 is not a lubricant ...
A QUESTION OF LUBRICATION
Myth: WD-40® Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant.
Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40® stands for Water Displacement, WD-40® Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.
When my doors didn't want to latch after pulling in, I did the spray lube trick a few times and it seemed to work, but I would still have the problem reappear every couple of months. When I took my latch assembly out, I noticed that the blue microswitch in the upper right hand corner of your picture was not being actuated when the pivot mechanism that you are pointing out, was in its final position. The switch was just barely not being made, and if I flexed the pivot manually, the swich would contact. My solution was to bend the microswitch actuator arm slightly so that it was actuated at the completion of the pivot cycle. That fix worked for over a year before I sold the van.
I could hear the switch click as it actuated, so no need to try to trace the wiring harness out to use an ohmmeter. Maybe if you wanted to verify that the switch itself wasn't bad.I think that’s a great idea to bend the arm a smidge if it’s not actuating completely to add a bit of tension to the switch mechanism. I would do that if I had to pull the assembly out again to make sure it worked every time. Perhaps verifying with an ohmmeter would be a good idea before reinstalling the assembly since it’s such a pain in the neck to do IMHO.
It finally warmed up enough (40°F) for me to dare opening the slider and trying your "spray in the hole" trick.Greetings fellow Ody Owners,
I had the same thing happen on our‘06 EXL-RES did the same thing. The video above was terrific! That being said, I am 99% sure you can lube that pivot without taking one screw out. When I did what the video showed to do I discovered that a guy may be able to take a WD-40 straw and reach that pivot from the outside of the door (see pictures below). I have posted this a couple times hoping someone will say they succeeded in lubing that pivot and not having to disassemble the entire thing just to squirt a bit of lube on it. I know it would be a HUGE help to many out there if it did actually resolve the problem. Basically, the process that needs to be done is as follows:
1. Clean the outside of the latch well enough to to see the cam mechanism and the plastic surrounding it.
2. Roll the latch from the outside just a little toward the lock position, but not enough to put it in the first detent. If you go that far you can't access the hole. You will have to pull the door handle to release the cam and start over.
3. Insert straw as shown in picture.
5. BTW, I can't see where getting a little overspray on any parts in there would hurt anything either if it didn't all get on the pivot that sticks.
I will be interested in any feedback you all may have. I hope that it saves someone a bunch of time, money and headaches.
Just keeping the thread alive with an update. The temperature has dropped into the low 20's F and the door has not given me any issues. Maybe it's just my imagination, but it seems to sound smoother when it latches. We've got some varying weather coming up over the next few days, including some sleet and freezing rain, so we'll see how the door reacts to that.It finally warmed up enough (40°F) for me to dare opening the slider and trying your "spray in the hole" trick.
My cold temperature problem on the driver's side has been getting worse. The last time I opened the driver's side slider it was 23°F and it wouldn't close. Kept doing the "rear pop" thing. I ended up tying a thin piece of rope to the rear roller bracket, bringing it down around the front of the base of the captain's chair and back to the rear floor bar for the PlusOne seat. That kept enough "forward tension" on the door to keep it almost closed so I could drive to work - not enough to turn off the dash light or alarm, but closed enough. Without the rope it would slide wide open when I accelerated.
When I got to work, I set the heat to HI and before I left that day, I ran the remote start for 20 minutes. It was pretty toasty when I got in the van. As I made the right turn out of the parking lot, the rope stretched a bit and the door slid back/open a few inches. I applied the brake to allow it to slide forward and it settled in nice and easy, latched and stayed shut. No more dash light, no more alarm.
I left it tied up and didn't use it until today when I opened it to try your spray idea. It's going to get cold again, so I should know soon enough. Leaving the rope tied to the door bracket doesn't impede the use of the door so I left it in place, ready to be quickly secured to the floor bar if the door pops open again.
I'll let you know how things go, but it's weather related - and intermittent - so it might be awhile.
Thanks for the suggestion, but I replaced the roller about 6 months ago when I replaced the sliding door motor. The hinge was taken apart, cleaned, etc. at that time.Could also be a stiff hinge on the center roller. That's what caused my door issue. Pulled the center rollers to see if it needed repair, rollers were still good. That's when I discovered the hinge would not move. I used WD40 and couple pliers to get it free, then lubed with lithium grease. After reassembly, the door worked properly with the motor. And my issue with random overnight battery drains disappeared
Lacking a garage, this would still be a springtime repair for me in the warmer weather.
Apparently that is not my issue, as least as far as I know of.The battery drain (0.4 amps) is caused by bad microswitches in the rear latch module.
08 EX with just shy of 170k. Driver side slider started acting up out of the blue around a month ago. It’s been intermittent since then - the only noticeable symptom being the annoying door ajar alarm going on and on and on - fortunately it’s been off more than on.Derbydad, thank you for the posts and the trying out the WD-40 straw trick. I hope it works long term! I give it a quick shot every couple months keeping my fingers crossed that it is helping. I know some may not agree with the methodology and still want to pull the mechanism out if they wanted to inspect further. I wouldn’t blame someone who wanted to do so anyway. I figure that it may help someone who doesn’t have the time or desire to open up the door. Looking forward to seeing more after it (and you) warm up!