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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello!
IIRC correctly I was able to open/close doors when the Power switch is turned off (manual mode). I am unable to do that now :-(. I am using brute force to no avail (stopping short of breaking the door handle). In power mode both the doors close and open fine. What could be the problem ?
Thanks in advance!
 

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Try something: open the door in auto mode but then flip the switch to off once it's open a little bit. Then see if the door will move in manual mode.
 
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^+1 to WiiMaster's advice.

It could also be that your center rollers are severely worn out. In manual mode, one of my doors opens/closes pretty smoothly. The other one does not... which means I need to change the center roller on that side when I have time. In automatic mode, though, it seems OK.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Try something: open the door in auto mode but then flip the switch to off once it's open a little bit. Then see if the door will move in manual mode.
I am able to (freely) move the doors manually until it gets stuck at some point. So, as Jinatao suggested, it could be the "severely worn out central rollers.". Right ?
 

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I suppose it could be worn out rollers, though if it's that bad in manual I'd be surprised that they're working fine in automatic mode. An easy way to inspect the condition of the roller is to open it all the way, grab the back of the door, and wiggle it away from and towards the body. If there's a lot of movement, they're definitely worn out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I suppose it could be worn out rollers, though if it's that bad in manual I'd be surprised that they're working fine in automatic mode. An easy way to inspect the condition of the roller is to open it all the way, grab the back of the door, and wiggle it away from and towards the body. If there's a lot of movement, they're definitely worn out.
Power mode is not exactly working smoothly but it works. Sometimes it stops. Have to press the button again. Sometime even help it a bit.
 

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Power mode is not exactly working smoothly but it works. Sometimes it stops. Have to press the button again. Sometime even help it a bit.
My passenger side sliding door does kind of the same thing. It works fine, but you can tell it kind of "catches" on the track slightly every so often when in automatic mode. It almost looks like it mooooooves and then suddenly stops for a split second, and then continues to mooooooove for a second and then suddenly stops for a split second again before closing all the way. But, it has never gotten stuck or failed to close. Strangely, it doesn't look like anything's wrong when it is opening in automatic mode (only closing).

I tried opening it a few times in manual mode, and it opens halfway or so and then you really need to force it open.

My driver's side door doesn't have this problem. Presumably, the previous owner used the driver side door much less frequently.
 
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Had the same issue this week, it could need lubricant if you haven’t tried that already.. top middle and bottom tracks spray like crazy. Also could be gunk clogged up inside the tracks so cleaning them before lubricant could be best.

I have to spray lubricant every few months at least to keep them humming along. Without lubricant the latch was catching on something that’s why in manual it wouldn’t work.

I really thought it was broken, I was using lubricant on one and never used the other door 🤷‍♂️ Turns out it needed lubricant even with little usage.

it drips down onto the paint (middle track) so rinsing it off be a good idea.
 

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Power mode is not exactly working smoothly but it works. Sometimes it stops. Have to press the button again. Sometime even help it a bit.
Ah, now that you say that, definitely sounds like center rollers. Do the test I mentioned to see if they're worn. You can also take off the track cover panel. Only a 10mm bolt and a Phillips screw.

I should point out that manual mode won't be as effortless as on a manual-only door, since you'll be fighting against the motor.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you all! I replaced the central rollers and lubed the tracks. Used white lithium grease (first to remove dirt and then second time after application removed excess leaving just a thin film). Both manual and auto are working great!!!
Lot of good videos out there. I used hybrid method: removed the trim inside to access the white clip for getting slack; removed the pin that attaches the bracket to the roller (instead of removing the bracket). This procedure made it very easy.
 

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Thank you all! I replaced the central rollers and lubed the tracks. Used white lithium grease (first to remove dirt and then second time after application removed excess leaving just a thin film). Both manual and auto are working great!!!
Lot of good videos out there. I used hybrid method: removed the trim inside to access the white clip for getting slack; removed the pin that attaches the bracket to the roller (instead of removing the bracket). This procedure made it very easy.
Did you replace both sides?
 

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This procedure made it very easy.
Overall I don't know if going through the hassle of removing the interior panel for this is easier, but glad it worked out for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Overall I don't know if going through the hassle of removing the interior panel for this is easier, but glad it worked out for you.
It's not difficult. There's an awesome video by South Main Auto on trim removal. In that video he is removing the bracket from the vehicle. Don't do this. He has posted another video where he removes the pin to disengage the roller from the bracket. This method saves you the hassle of realignment.
 

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It's not difficult. There's an awesome video by South Main Auto on trim removal. In that video he is removing the bracket from the vehicle. Don't do this. He has posted another video where he removes the pin to disengage the roller from the bracket. This method saves you the hassle of realignment.
Please post a link to that other video if you can. Thanks!!!!!
 

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It's not difficult. There's an awesome video by South Main Auto on trim removal. In that video he is removing the bracket from the vehicle. Don't do this. He has posted another video where he removes the pin to disengage the roller from the bracket. This method saves you the hassle of realignment.
I'm well aware. I've seen basically every video in existence on the subject.

The interior panel removal is definitely more involved than just replacing it without adjusting tension. I tried to knock out the pin without removing it when I did mine but I didn't have anything that could get a good angle to whack the pin out.

I wrote quite a bit about my experience in my thread:
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
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