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I have reviewed all the threads regarding the power steering fluid change that I could find so I did utilize the "search" function. If this has been asked and answered, I did not find it. Sounds like a question that would be common so I apologize in advance if it is already here somewhere.

I was told by the dealer that my PS fluid look contaminated. This was notated on my 100k mile tune up where they checked the other fluids as well. It appears to be computer generated so the word contaminated may be a little harsh. It looks honey brown to me. Didn't see any particles floating about. I checked it by popping open the reservoir and pulling some out with a turkey baster. From the threads I have read, I am opting for the dilution method as most use on the trans fluid change. I plan on sucking out all PS fluid in the resevoir and replacing with new fluid. I will continue this process for 3 or 4x to eventually have mostly fresh fluid. That is my plan at least.

I don't really understand how the PS works or how the fluid in the reservoir is circulated. Is this fluid actually circulated regularly? Is is beneficial to change it then drive a few days and do it again or is it even circulated that much? Is this more of a resevoir like the radiator reservoir? Am I making sense here?

I have a 2005 with 109,000 miles on it. Only problem has been a PS pump replaced at 30K under warranty. Good van so far.
 

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I change power steering fluid every 3 years just like I do brake fluid. I have not done this yet on the Oddy as I just picked it up and the owner prior had both done at the dealer.
 

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The PS pump operates all the times so the fluid recirculates pretty quickly.
You can look inside the reservoir while the car engine is running and see that the fluid is pumped quite vigorously.

You can do these steps to freshen the PS fluid.
1) Suction out the existing fluid from the reservoir.
2) Refill with fresh fluid.
3) Turn on the car's engine and rotate steering wheel all the way left then right a few times.
5) Stop the engine.
4) Go back to 1. Do this a maybe 3 times and you'll get mostly fresh fluid in the system.
 

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Agree with the PS fluid change procedure ^^^^, and also add to park each front tire on a few sheets of paper to reduce stress on the steering system. I cringe when I see folks turn the wheel when the car is completely stopped. On a warm summer day, the tire can even dig into the asphalt!
 

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Agree with the PS fluid change procedure ^^^^, and also add to park each front tire on a few sheets of paper to reduce stress on the steering system. I cringe when I see folks turn the wheel when the car is completely stopped. On a warm summer day, the tire can even dig into the asphalt!
Or do what I did and just jacked the front end up enough to get the tires off the ground.
 

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A common turkey type baster will fit neatly into the PS fluid resivour. If your's doesn't a short length of an appropriately sized hose attached to the baster and you can acheive the same results.

I would however advise against using your bride's prized turkey baster, washing it back out and quitely placing it back in the kitchen drawer... (whistles quitely to himself)
 

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I had to remove my power steering belt and pulley while in the process of replacing a damaged passenger side engine mount. I inadvertently removed the hose connecting the PS fluid reservoir to the pump while doing this. After I reassembled everything and started the car, I noticed that there was a loud ticking squeal from the PS pump/belt. I assume I had air in the system from removing the hose so I went ahead and did three drain/fill cycles of PS fluid with several minutes of turning the wheel in between cycles to try to bleed air. The noise is reduced but not gone. Do I need to just keep turning the wheel to bleed the system more thoroughly? When I look in the PS fluid reservoir after running the engine for a while and shutting it off, there is a tiny amount of foam on the surface of the fluid.
 

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The procedure you are following should purge any trapped air. Are you turning the steering wheel lock-to-lock?
 

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FWIW, there is a....helluva lot of suction on the reservoir to pump supply line. Even if you just scratched the tubing stub coming out of the reservoir and air is allowed to sneak around the clamp, it will perpetually get air in the system.
 

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FWIW, there is a....helluva lot of suction on the reservoir to pump supply line. Even if you just scratched the tubing stub coming out of the reservoir and air is allowed to sneak around the clamp, it will perpetually get air in the system.
I have now done three drain fill cycles and have turned the wheel lock to lock at least twenty times between drains and I am still getting some whine. Are you suggesting that there is a persistent air leak somewhere still?
 

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Sometimes going lock to lock (multiple times, a dozen ?), wheels jacked up without running the engine will do a better job of purging entrapped air. May want to try that.

Is the noise coming from the belt or pulley because of fluid contamination ?
 

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But if the engine us not running, the PS pump will not circulate fluid, so how will that process bleed air from the system?
 

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I have now done three drain fill cycles and have turned the wheel lock to lock at least twenty times between drains and I am still getting some whine. Are you suggesting that there is a persistent air leak somewhere still?
Yup, they can be tricky, it's always a PITA to disrupt even the remote reservoir supply line on the P/S systems on these vehicles. I would check to make sure your clamp is tight, or if the supply line from the reservoir is hard & dry, see if you have enough slack to cut the hardened part off and reclamp with the fresher area.

Also, make sure there's no cracks or holes in the supply line from bending the hose out of the way, very common thing to have happen.

For a graphic representation of what I'm talking about. Get a coke at McDonalds, poke a tiny pinhole in it anywhere along the length of the straw above the soft drink line, try to suck through the straw.
 

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If the O ring on the power steering pump inlet was black then you need ro replace it with a red one (new honda part no. 91345rda-a01, the old one is letting air be sucked into the system, there is a video on Utube that shows the procedure
 

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Have not done a flush on present Oddy, but have done several the following way when the reservoir is a remote flow thru type like in these Honda's

Its a 2 person job, the 2nd person starts car, turns wheels left to right and back, then shuts the car off when prompted.

Remove the return line from the reservoir and plug the reservoir so fluid dont leak out. extend the return line and let it dump, empty to an old gallon jug of some sort. when the vehicle is started it will pump old excess fluid into gallon jug

Fill the reservoir with clean fluid such that it does not go dry, this will prevent and AIR from evtering the system.

Usually you need 3-4 litres/quarts to do a good flush

This system works better than any flush machine where a remote reservoir is present

Al
 

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Any suggestions on fluid to use? I plan to do this in a couple weeks when I do the timing belt and such.

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+1. Need suggestions. I have seen Prestone PS Fluid for Honda/Acura vehicles at the local Wally World. IIRC it was about $3 or so for a bottle of 12 Fl Oz. Did see some verbiage about the same fluid on this forum but not extensive agreement on if that fluid is good or not.

Any recent PS Flush folks want to chime in and post what fluid they used?
 
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