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I Have A 03 Oddessey that the wires on the wire harness side of the connector broke in the plastic connector. I have looked every where to find the pin terminals and even the whole plastic connector too but can't find it. Honda dealer is a wasted because they told me they can't get it and they don't even have a repair solution. Any help?:huh::huh::usa:
 

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There is a TSB on repairing the power steering pressure switch wire (see link-Go to Repair Procedure A). It is a common problem so you should try a different Honda dealer.

LinkDeny
 

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I Have A 03 Oddessey that the wires on the wire harness side of the connector broke in the plastic connector. I have looked every where to find the pin terminals and even the whole plastic connector too but can't find it. Honda dealer is a wasted because they told me they can't get it and they don't even have a repair solution. Any help?:huh::huh::usa:
I have a 2001. When the trans. was removed, (3rd trans), they broke the PSP connector. There is the "male" part and the "female" part.

Long story,but talking to the Honda Mech. (at the Dealer). they said it's common for it the male part to break. He said, they just take the male
part apart, and rebuild it. Even showed me a few he rebuilt.

The Parts person at the Honda Dealer said, they do not sell the part. Only the complete harness. He said go to a local parts dismantler (junk yard)
that deals only with Honda cars.

I went there, and found the "male part" for only $10.

Also, my understanding, the PSP switch, tells the computer, to increase the RPMS, when the power steering is under increased pressure. ie. when you are parking the van, or such.....
 

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Thanks No Body Could Come Up With that bulletin And it gave me the terminals (P/N 04320-SP0-A00) I was looking for The Last one was telling me i needed to replace the whole wire harnesswhich is Like $200
 

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Thanks No Body Could Come Up With that bulletin And it gave me the terminals (P/N 04320-SP0-A00) I was looking for The Last one was telling me i needed to replace the whole wire harnesswhich is Like $200
Again, just my 2 cents. Try and find an auto dismantler, that only handles
Honda's. They can be a wealth of information. Sometimes, other Honda
makes, ie accura, etc, use the same part.

Try and talk to some Honda only repair shops, ask them how they solve the problem. Even if you were to buy the entire harness, the labor and rewiring can be very difficult.

I think most honda mechanics rebuild the plastic parts, and splice them back in.

again, visit some Honda only repair shops, and ask around.
 

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Power Steering Wire Repair

I got the connector off of my 2001 and soldered new wires (about 4 inches worth) onto the broken ends. However I need to get the part of the harness up far enough to work on the wires (install new splices connector) Does anyone know how to remove the top O2 sensor portion from the steel hanger? I know it slides and locks but I can seem to get it to unhitch,I have tried every which way to unlock it but must be doing something wrong. See attached pic.
Thanks!
 

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Nevermind on getting the connector off, I think I fixed it. I used some in-line spice connectors to splice it back together. That was a tough job! I guess it works. I never noticed it running badly before when I turned to steeing wheel while idling. Nothing has changed... Oh well a great way to spend a saturday! Next weekend will be the drum brakes, egr port cleaning,oil change, and AC filter ....
 

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Got the same problem recently and there's no way I can soldered the wire to the pigtails. So what i did is drill a hole on the wire (pigtail) using 1/16 drill and got through it and was able to removed the connector all the way (pop out). Now I can solder the wire and put it back to the pigtail and connect the wire . It works !
You need to remove the top O2 sensor portion from the steel hanger to extend the wiring harness . It has a lock at the steel hanger and after unlocking it will slide all the way just like that.
 

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I too had the hunting idle problem on my 2004 Odyssey.
Last year I replaced the Idle Air Control valve (IAC) with no change. I replaced it again yesterday with the same lack of results.

Hmm, could it be the power steering pressure switch wires like the others ?
It took a long time figuring out where it is. The factory manual illustrations were useless. After googling, I finally figured out where it is -- next to the firewall near the right wheel. Sure enough, one of the wires was broken. It is really hard to reach over the engine to work on, so I jacked up the right side and removed the wheel. Much easier!
I realized that I would have to free up the wiring harness to make repairs so I pryed the clips out of the body -- that was tough! The O2 sensor plug is mounted on a tab and can be slipped off. In the photo in the previous post, the tip of the arrow is on a tab that needs to be pressed -- then it slips off.
After that, I could pull the harness to the top of the engine and I get out my soldering iron. Not having a spare connector, I pulled out the wire contacts and soldered the new wire to them. I wrapped up the new connections in shrink wrap and electical tape.
Plugged everything back in, started it up and it idles smoothly at about 1100.

Per the manual, I reset the code and did the idle retraining procedure. Now it idles exactly where it should be at 650! Yay!

Here is the code reset and idle retrain steps:
1. with ignition off, pull out the clock backup fuse for at least 10 seconds (fuse #13 on the passenger side fuse box)
2. replace fuse
3. start engine and turn off AC/heater and all accessories
4. run engine at 3000 rpm until the cooling fan turns on or the coolant temp hits 95 C (how do you know?). I just ran it for a few minutes until the temp gauge was up to normal range.
5. let engine idle for at least 5 minutes with no accessories on
 

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brian, impressive first post. :cool: I found a busted wire on my wife's 2002 EX, and still need to do this. It has been sitting in the garage for while, little used, since she now prefers the old Accord for shuttling around in town...but I gotta get it done.

Have no idea why the thought of removing the wheel never occurred to me, but I am so glad you mentioned that, as I had resigned myself to reaching over the engine.

It's guys like you who help the old dogs (or really old, like me) learn new and useful tricks. Welcome aboard and keep those good ideas comin'.

OF
 

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I'm curious if this applies to the 1999 Odyssey EX? I have the same symptoms - when engaged in drive, van's idle is around 1k, but in park/neutral, it fluctuates up/down like I'm racing the engine. I disconnected the PS pressure switch and examined for any broken wires - but it didn't appear to me that either wire was broken (the harness had ample slack in it to begin with). I also disconnected the switch while the van was running. The idle continued to fluctuate, and the "TCS" and "check engine" lights came on. Prior to this, I replaced the idle air control valve, throttle body gasket, and the EGR valve and gasket. Any ideas, anybody??
 

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most likely a vacuum tube has come off. on youtube look for bundys garage of a video showing how to replace the fuel pressure regulator on Honda V6 engine. At the end when he finishes off the work and starts the car, it starts doing surging up and down. I was screaming at my screen that he had forgotten to hook up that vacuum line even before he started the engine.

anyway, when engine has significant vacuum leak, this is how it behaves.

please let us know if this turned out to be your problem
 

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Call your local NAPA and they can tell you all the Honda vehicles that take the same connector. Off the top of my head I believe it was the Accord and Ridgeline and maybe some others. Then like was suggested in previous posts try to locate one at a junkyard and splice it in place using heat shrink connectors.
 

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One thing I have noticed - when I start up the van in the morning, the idle is perfect, the engine runs 'normal'. If I drive the van around a bit, I notice at stoplights that the idle has crept up to 1,000 rpm (up from around 7-800). If I put the van in neutral at the light, the engine will immediately begin it's revving. If I let the engine cool down, I'll start up the van and the idle is back to 'normal'.
 

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Solder

2004- same problem. I tackled this on a Friday night after hours thinking I would get the pieces in hand and buy replacments on Saturday morning. Worked under the van, jacked up and passenger wheel removed. I got the power steering connector and O2 sensor connector apart, and the O2 connector away from its frame clip (lots of determination and foul words uttered during that process). I snipped the two wire ties that attach the harness to the frame/inner fender well and pulled the wires up to the top of the engine compartment. I wanted a bit more slack so I unclipped the yellow connector that is just below the fuse box and clipped one more wire tie to get a couple more inches of slack. I pulled the rubber water tight plug out of the back of the plug so that I could see the termination points on the pins inside the plug. Using a set of small needle nose plyers and a tiny flat screwdriver I was able to pull the white internal plastic retainer and then fought to release the pin from the housing. Success after a 5 minute battle. Pin in hand, I stripped the 3/8" piece of wire that was still attached to the pin, stripped 3/8" off of the piece of wire still attached to the harness. A little twist and a little solder job and I was done. Just some advice if you take this approach, pull the broken wire out of the rubber water tight plug and run a drill bit through it that is just larger than the wire diameter. I did this because the new diameter of the wire (now two wire diameters thick plus solder) needed to fit back over the stopper once the repair was done. Dont forget to put the broken wire back through the water tight stopper before you start soldering! It worked great. No $ invested, just time. My idle was hanging around 1400 when I started it up, better than the 2000-3000 surging prior to the repair. I then did the idle reset procedure described above and the van initially settled in around 800 but by the end of the 5 minute idle session it concluded at 950-1000RPM. Good enough for me.
Thank you all for the level of detail provided above.
Be safe and be sure to let me know if you come across something this simple to correct my shuddering low rpm slight acceleration transmission condition.
Pat
 

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As an update, I had a code PO505 pulled after all of this and found that the idle air control valve that I replaced was faulty (either that or it was installed incorrectly...by me...ahem...) anyway, I replaced it with a different one and my fluctuating idle stopped. So, everything is back to 'normal'.
 

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I was able to pull mine off and sure enough there was exposed copper with the plug. I soldered new wires on and re-installed but it did not fix mine. I had to go to Honda for recalls anyway, so they said it needed a new power steering sensor and a new idle air control valve. I hate to say it, I paid them the $460 to do it.

They liked my wire fix, though, so I did not have to pay the additional money they said it may cost to "re-pin" the connector.

So, 160K miles and I have had to pay the dealer for a motor mount and this repair. Still super satisfied with this van -- and I have towed a boat with it since 2007.
 
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