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Discussion Starter #1
On my 05 odyssey I can't open passenger or back windows.Driver's window works fine then i try to open other windows a just hear a click sound from that window door....Anybody has same problems?
 

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pyvas said:
On my 05 odyssey I can't open passenger or back windows.Driver's window works fine then i try to open other windows a just hear a click sound from that window door....Anybody has same problems?
Your window lock switch is on or off?
 

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Looks like its a trip to the local dealer.
 

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I just had this exact problem. With the lock switch off I hear a click (solenoid/relay?) from each door when I push that window's button. With the lock switch on there is nothing, as it should be. Drivers window is normal. Problem with the lock switch probably? I've checked all fuses and they are ok. I need to get a factory manual so I have electrical schematics. Anyone resolved this one before and can give me a lead?

Thanks
 

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Will this help?


Trouble Resetting That Power Window Control Unit? Check
This Out

’05–10 Odyssey

Having trouble manually resetting a power window
control unit? Here’s a procedure that we’ve found
works every time.

IMPORTANT: You must do this manual reset from
the power window switch of the affected window.
For example: If you’re resetting the driver’s power
window control unit, you must do it from the power
window master switch. And if you’re resetting the
front passenger’s power window control unit, you
must do it from the front passenger’s power window
switch.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Lower the window all the way down with the
power window switch.
3. Open the driver’s or front passenger’s door (it
doesn’t matter which).
4. Do each bullet in this step within 5 seconds of
each other. Do this entire step a total of
four times. This step clears the control unit’s
memory.
• Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
• Push down and hold the power window switch.
• Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
• Release the power window switch.
5. Make sure the auto-up feature doesn’t work. If it
still works, redo step 4, paying close attention to
the 5 second time limit for each bullet.
NOTE: Steps 6 and 7 teach the control unit the
window settings needed for the auto-up/down
feature. Keep in mind, if you’re resetting the front
passenger’s power window control unit, you can’t
work the front passenger’s window from the power
window master switch until that control unit has
learned the window settings.
6. Lower the window all the way down with the
power window switch.
7. Pull up and hold the power window switch until
the window goes all the way up, then keep
holding the switch for 1 second.
8. Make sure the auto-up/down feature works right
by lowering and raising the window with the
power window switch. If it doesn’t work right,
repeat this manual reset several times, paying
close attention to the 5 second time limit for each
bullet in step 4. If that still doesn’t work, then
troubleshoot the power window circuit.
ASN 42354
 

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I'm curious to find out if the previous poster's reset procedure has any effect.

In my case, my 07 EX-L had the exact problem described before (clicking for 3 out of 4 windows) and the dealer replaced the main window unit on the driver's door. The dealer said the unit was not grounded correctly, which caused the clicking sound.
 

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I'll see if I can try the reset procedure here soon. It sounds like the signal is getting to the right window (the click) but it is more about not getting power. I would suspect more a loose power harness, bad switch, or grounding issue as mentioned above. But reset is certainly worth a try. I wonder why they would replace the whole module instead of fixing the ground itself?
 

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+1 for a power problem as the signal is getting to the door relays. You would need to study the wiring diagram to find the common component for all three doors.
 

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I tried the reset procedure today to no avail. I cleared out the drivers switch and then reprogrammed it as per the instructions. I really couldn't do it to the other controllers because the windows don't work. The end result is no change. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I fixed it by buying used control switch from ebay for 50$.It took 5 min to replaced it and another 5 min to reprograme remote controls... I didnt go to dealer as my warranty was expired so my guees was correct ...control switch...


I believe it got some water and it stopped working.+ dimmer lights on 3 switches didnt work.
 

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I am having same issue with 3 out of 4 windows inoperable after the panel got wet in rain today. Is replacing the switch a DIY job for a novice?

TIA
David
 

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Well I don't have this problem, but I have pictures of the driver's side control switch removal which I took several months back. Maybe this can help some of you. There are no screws, just a whole bunch of clips You will have to becareful when prying the switch panel up. Pay attention to those rectangular holes in the first pic. Each of those holes represent where the clips are on the switch control.




 

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Thanks for the pics and the solution report. I had ordered the schematics but this gives me a head start. I wonder if the two solutions we have (grounding of the module and switch failure) are related or could be the same. Is the window control module located in that switch panel or elsewhere in the door?
I'm surprised that having it get wet would cause so much trouble; figured they would have designed for that.

Thanks
 

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I got my schematics and took a quick look at things. The window control module is part of the switch panel and the circuit board is just below the window switches so it is feasible that rain could collect in the button wells and would drip through and fall on the board. I'd like to figure out what's happening here so that it can be corrected more permanently.

The service manual has some good troubleshooting info, such as what to expect at each pin of the drivers panel connector. Unfortunately, I've not been able to verify either previous solution that had been posted. I found good ground at each of the drivers connector grounds. The manual also says that if you jumper specific pins on the drivers connector you can make a particular window go up or down. Unfortunately, when I do this I just get the same relay click at each window. This would seem to indicate the issue may be downstream of the switch.

Someone had mentioned about the LED illumination on the window buttons being out. I checked and all the remote buttons (passenger, and two rear) LED's are not functioning. On the drivers switch panel the driver and passenger LEDs work, but the two rear window button's illumination is out. For a two year old vehicle, the LED lifecycle is such that to have 5 of 7 LEDs out is highly improbable.

I imagine I'll still end up replacing the window controller like in the other cases, but would like to poke around some first. Its cold out so no one wants to use the windows anyway.:)
 

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Removal of the master switch

I'm having the EXACT SAME issue.

The pictures provided above are great, but could you please tell me how to remove the master switch? Is it as easy as gently sticking a straight screwdriver around the master switch and popping it out? What's the secret?
 

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After all this time I finally got around to poking around and doing a little troubleshooting on this issue. The factory service manual and electrical schematics are well done, and very helpful. After checking voltages it turned out to be somewhat as I had thought. Since I could hear a click at each window when I pressed the button it seemed that the signal was getting through but there was not power to run the motor to make the window respond. I traced it down to the power window solenoid that supplies power the all but the drivers window through fuses 24, 25, 26 in the drivers side under dash fuse box. I checked the solenoid and it worked when tested out of the circuit. I even swapped it out with another but when in circuit it failed to engage and get power to the windows. Note: the manual says not to use pliers to remove the solenoids because you can damage them, and they are right ;) . So I jumpered the solenoid socket with a paper clip (always a lot of fun:cool: ) and the windows all worked as they should. I'll look again soon, but there appears to be an issue with the fuse box itself where the relay plugs in. I've ohmed it out and the connections are all there but it doesn't connect properly when the relay is plugged in.
 
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