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I got the same problem and still trying to fix it. can anyone please let me know the location of the solenoid mentioned in the last post and some instructions or pictures about changing it. I am also wondering whether the problem is in the master switch?
 

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It is due to the mal function of the power control on your window. Replace them. They are not that hard. I did it in 5 minutes. You need to order the parts or try to get a used one. I bought one brand new since I will be driving the car for long time. If you plan to sell soon, you should get the used parts.

If you have questions, email me.
 

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Hi Kaesan

Is it the Power windows master switch on the driver side door?

Can you just pull it out and replace? or

Is it necessary to remove the whole control unit from the driver's side door?

Thank You
 

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ody2ody said:
Well I don't have this problem, but I have pictures of the driver's side control switch removal which I took several months back. Maybe this can help some of you. There are no screws, just a whole bunch of clips You will have to becareful when prying the switch panel up. Pay attention to those rectangular holes in the first pic. Each of those holes represent where the clips are on the switch control.




FOLLOW THESE STEPS EXACTLY FOR ANYONE WHO IS HAVING SIMILAR WINDOW PROBLEM. (it looks like most of the folks who wrote on this thread)

This is great forum and great thread. Many people will have this problem in the future so replace them. Water is the main cause of this problem so be careful not to put any water/rain into this module.
 

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Same problem I'm having in my 2006.

Has anybody had water inside their "TAILGATE"? My 2006 Honda Odyssey was parked at the Chicago OHare airport remote parking lot for two weeks and when we got back discovered that water has built up inside the tailgate. When I open the tailgate, water comes out of the latch hardware on the inside of the tailgate. I haven't started taking things apart yet...but might do that tomorrow if I have time. What's odd is that it's never parked in a garage even at home and this is the first time I've ran across this issue. PS: None of the windows roll down except for the driver side now too, (it's not the window lock on the driver side door controls).
 

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gabebauman said:
So I checked all the pwr window fuses, none are blown. Removed the driverside power window control switch. Is that what I need to replace? My driverside window rolls down...but the passenger & both rear slider door windows do not roll down. I hear a click when I hit the switches for each of the other windows...but they will not go down.
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This is exactly what happens when you need to replace them and if you replace them, it will work perfectly. It took me more than $100 to find out so you will be saving that $100.
 

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Power window problem

Only the driver's side power window in my 2005 touring worked and all the other 3 windows stopped working. After reading the threads in this forum I bought a used switch from e bay for $45 and replaced it and now everything works perfect.

Many thanks to all and especially for posting pictures. Pictures were very useful not to damage the plastics when removing the switch.

At the beginning I was confused because when the passengers window switches operate a click was heard and the window didn't work. Because the noise of the click the tendency is to believe that the power windows master switch works fine but it is not.

If you have the same problem just replace the master switch.
 

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Power window auto up/down operation

The auto up/down feature in my touring was not working perfectly after a visit to the dealer. The window went up and came down about 6 inches all the time when I used auto up button. I went back to the dealer and the dealer wanted $57 + tax to re-program the window operation.

I used the instruction given by "oddysseyguy1" in page 1 in this thread and now the window switch is re-programmed and window works fine. Many thanks to odysseyguy1 and the owners of this great forum.
 

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Gabe
The keyless entry signal receiver is attached to the window switch. Therefore, whenever you make changes to the window switch you need to re-activate the remote. I found the steps to reactivate the remote in this forum. Do a search. Good luck.
 

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I have the following issue with my 05 Touring with 47k:
Couple of days ago as I was driving the passenger window started going down on it's own. It was snowing at the time, but not heavily. I kept trying to bring it up by pressing on the switch, only couple of seconds later again to go down on its own. Eventually I stopped the car, used the passenger door switch to roll it up and it stayed there.
Now I can't do anything to it from the driver's door switch, but the passenger door switch can roll it up and down. I also decided to try the remote to roll down the windows yesterday, so all but the passenger side windows opened. When I started the car, the window rolled down on it's own.
Now since yesterday, whenever I start the car, the window goes down at the moment of the car starting.
When I press on the switch at the driver's side, I don't hear no clicks, nothing. The passenger switch though operates properly the window.
Anybody with such an experience?
 

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Sounds like the main switch module on the driver's door. Did it get wet recently? They sometimes behave oddly after getting water on them.
 

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Here is what I was able to do today: I decided to have a look at the master switch. Was able to remove it from the door - it is not strait forward as the poster states above. If someone knows from where and how to start removing it would be great. What I did is noticed that there is a screw under the door arm rest, which I loosened. Also noticed that there is a small slot in the plastic cover of the switch in the pocket of the door handle. I started pulling on the door plastic arm rest and at the same time using a long flat screwdriver tried to pry at the slot. So I removed it from the door, but one of the brackets broke. To pull the wires (2 sets) I had to push on a small pin in the middle of the wire socket and while pressing it, I pulled with the other hand the socket. After that I went ahead and removed about 6 small screws that attach the cover (face plate) to the black box of the switch. After that went ahead and started opening the box of the switch itself. Removed the small bottom piece and there I found a small screw, which I removed, which helped me to open the bigger bottom piece. Had to remove the window locking button as well. So I reached the board - this thing is like a computer mother board. I decided to blow some air at the place where the door opening sliders are in the board.
Put everything back together and tried it and it worked. Now the window does not go up and down on its own and I can manipulate it from the master switch.
I am not saying that this is everybody's problem - I suspected that it is a contact problem in my case since the window was acting erratically.
 

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Oh well. It is me again. We had rain couple of days ago and the window switch started acting again. Now whenever I try to lower the passenger window I can hear the clicking sound in the passenger door, but the motor does not activate. So I guess looks like this switch will have to go after all.
 

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These posts are great. In my case the master switch buttons were falling down in the door handle away from the top plate. Something was broken inside so I removed the master switch and top plate from the door as shown in the picures on this thread. You simply pry carefully starting at the front with a small plastic wedge or a screwdriver. As you start to get it up out of the door handle just keep using your tool to lift it around the edges. If you are careful it will come up fine. It is only held in the door handle by clips.

After taking it out is was apparent that the problem was several of the plastic moldings where the brass screws attach the switch to the top plate had broken off. The screws were thus useless. This was a challenge because I needed to be able to firmly reattach the switch to the top plate. I was able to use a cable tie through a couple of slots in the top plate and wrap it around the switch in the center. This securely held the two parts together and worked perfectly.

I reinstalled it in the door and it is just like new. Total cost of repair, 2 cable ties and a couple of screws.
 

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Solution

I had the master switch apart a couple of times to clean it but no luck. I knew it wast the master switch because I plugged it into another Odyssey and the same thing happened. All passenger windows did not work, driver's did work.

A friend was over and I showed him the circuit board for the switch and he saw the problem almost immediately. On the bottom of the board near the rear window switches there was a burn near the rear left and a tiny spot of corrosion near the rear right switch. Turns out the burn was not the problem but when he wiped away the little white piece of corrosion. Voila, there was no circuit below it. Water had lifted the copper off the board. As soon as he arched the circuit board with his screw driver the windows all worked.

He put a small line of soldier alone the broken circuit. Took him 5 seconds. Pheww!!

**Seems to me that when water gets in that switch it must run backward along the CBoard either because you are traveling fwd or the thing is slanted rearward. So when the power circuit is broken to one of the passenger windows it must shut them all down in series. I presume the power for those windows all runs through the lock out switch for the passenger windows.**

Odyssey Window board.jpg Window Board Zoom.jpg

Pictures enclosed. Hope this helps, it sure helped me.
 
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