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Same problem

Only problem with the new switch is that now my keyless entry doesn't work anymore. :(
I replaced this switch this year and all of the windows work great now. I bought the new switch from ebay. However, since I bought it, I have not been successful in reprogramming either of my original keyless remotes. I have followed all of the instructions that I have found on the net (even the ones found on this site). I get to the point where one remote will get programmed and will lock and unlock the doors. However, after about 10-15 seconds, the remote becomes un-programmed again and will not lock or unlock the doors anymore. Another note, even though the remote does become briefly reprogrammed and will lock and unlock the doors, it will not open the sliding doors anymore like they did with the original switch.

So my biggest questions is, are there different instructions for key remotes that have the door openers to function on them? If not, then what am I doing wrong?
 

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Thanks to all on this thread. The pics of the burned board led me to my burned board. After slightly etching the circuit and applying a little soder my windows work great.
 

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Same problem on my 2007.
Driver's window works, the 3 others don't.
Pretty sure it's the switch.
My question....how do you get access to the switch?
Noticed a slot where the switch bezel meets the handle, is that for prying...better to ask before I break something.
Got the passenger window stuck open, and it looks like rain.
Would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks
 

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I had the master switch apart a couple of times to clean it but no luck. I knew it wast the master switch because I plugged it into another Odyssey and the same thing happened. All passenger windows did not work, driver's did work.

A friend was over and I showed him the circuit board for the switch and he saw the problem almost immediately. On the bottom of the board near the rear window switches there was a burn near the rear left and a tiny spot of corrosion near the rear right switch. Turns out the burn was not the problem but when he wiped away the little white piece of corrosion. Voila, there was no circuit below it. Water had lifted the copper off the board. As soon as he arched the circuit board with his screw driver the windows all worked.

He put a small line of soldier alone the broken circuit. Took him 5 seconds. Pheww!!

**Seems to me that when water gets in that switch it must run backward along the CBoard either because you are traveling fwd or the thing is slanted rearward. So when the power circuit is broken to one of the passenger windows it must shut them all down in series. I presume the power for those windows all runs through the lock out switch for the passenger windows.**

View attachment 47329 View attachment 47321

Pictures enclosed. Hope this helps, it sure helped me.
This poster was right on the money. I had a corroded trace in the exact same spot.
My driver window worked, the other three windows would click but not move.

I dissembled the switch, located and cleaned the corrosion and soldered a little wire across the break.
All the windows came to life. Thank you CHollett, you saved me $400 (dealer cost to replace the switch).
 

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Thank you CHollett! I had the same problem with 3 passenger windows not working but the driver side still working. Checked the forum and found your solution. Took me about 30 minutes to remove the switches, fix the trace and re-install the switches.
 

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I had the master switch apart a couple of times to clean it but no luck. I knew it wast the master switch because I plugged it into another Odyssey and the same thing happened. All passenger windows did not work, driver's did work.

A friend was over and I showed him the circuit board for the switch and he saw the problem almost immediately. On the bottom of the board near the rear window switches there was a burn near the rear left and a tiny spot of corrosion near the rear right switch. Turns out the burn was not the problem but when he wiped away the little white piece of corrosion. Voila, there was no circuit below it. Water had lifted the copper off the board. As soon as he arched the circuit board with his screw driver the windows all worked.

He put a small line of soldier alone the broken circuit. Took him 5 seconds. Pheww!!

**Seems to me that when water gets in that switch it must run backward along the CBoard either because you are traveling fwd or the thing is slanted rearward. So when the power circuit is broken to one of the passenger windows it must shut them all down in series. I presume the power for those windows all runs through the lock out switch for the passenger windows.**

View attachment 47329 View attachment 47321

Pictures enclosed. Hope this helps, it sure helped me.
Had this issue at exactly the same spot on my brother's van, repaired it (extremely crudely) only to have it fail again. When I looked I see that the black plastic casing has a tooth in that spot that seems to be what causes the issue by rubbing the trace out. Any chance Honda would cover a new switch, or would that be a waste of time?
 

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Had the same problem in my 2009. The trace was worn from the plastic case chafing it. I scraped the trace and ran some new solder across it and bingo, all good. I shaved the plastic where it hits the trace just to give it some room.
From what I can tell, this trace energizes the relay that supplies power to the 3-20A amp fuses for the other 3 windows. Without the trace, I didn't have any voltage on either side of the fuses. That is why you get the clicking in the doors, but no window movement. You could jumper past the relay if you don't feel like pulling the controller apart, but the fix is literally a 20 min. Project.
Thanx for the help and direction.
 

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On the bottom of the board near the rear window switches there was a burn near the rear left and a tiny spot of corrosion near the rear right switch. Turns out the burn was not the problem but when he wiped away the little white piece of corrosion. Voila, there was no circuit below it. Water had lifted the copper off the board. As soon as he arched the circuit board with his screw driver the windows all worked.

He put a small line of soldier alone the broken circuit. Took him 5 seconds. Pheww!!

**Seems to me that when water gets in that switch it must run backward along the CBoard either because you are traveling fwd or the thing is slanted rearward. So when the power circuit is broken to one of the passenger windows it must shut them all down in series. I presume the power for those windows all runs through the lock out switch for the passenger windows.
You Sir are THE MAN! After getting the call from the wife today screaming about this exact issue (Only driver window and driver door lock worlking) I started searching. EVERY thread I found said "Replace the Master Switch", which I couldn't help but think was a last resort.

Then I found THIS thread! Took it apart, and look what I found:



Look familiar? Soldered a jumper wire and FIXED! Woohoo!

It was like doing frickin' micro-surgery however. That trace is tiny. Had to have my son hold a magnifying glass and flashlight so I could see what I was doing. I'm OK at soldering, but rarely on circuits so intricate!

Anyway...THANK YOU. Saved me several hundred dollars and I'm now the "Hero Husband". :D
 

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I had the master switch apart a couple of times to clean it but no luck. I knew it wast the master switch because I plugged it into another Odyssey and the same thing happened. All passenger windows did not work, driver's did work.

A friend was over and I showed him the circuit board for the switch and he saw the problem almost immediately. On the bottom of the board near the rear window switches there was a burn near the rear left and a tiny spot of corrosion near the rear right switch. Turns out the burn was not the problem but when he wiped away the little white piece of corrosion. Voila, there was no circuit below it. Water had lifted the copper off the board. As soon as he arched the circuit board with his screw driver the windows all worked.

He put a small line of soldier alone the broken circuit. Took him 5 seconds. Pheww!!

**Seems to me that when water gets in that switch it must run backward along the CBoard either because you are traveling fwd or the thing is slanted rearward. So when the power circuit is broken to one of the passenger windows it must shut them all down in series. I presume the power for those windows all runs through the lock out switch for the passenger windows.**

View attachment 47329 View attachment 47321

Pictures enclosed. Hope this helps, it sure helped me.
All Credits to Chollett. Window switches working again.

IMG_20160527_183945.jpg
 

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I had the master switch apart a couple of times to clean it but no luck. I knew it wast the master switch because I plugged it into another Odyssey and the same thing happened. All passenger windows did not work, driver's did work.

A friend was over and I showed him the circuit board for the switch and he saw the problem almost immediately. On the bottom of the board near the rear window switches there was a burn near the rear left and a tiny spot of corrosion near the rear right switch. Turns out the burn was not the problem but when he wiped away the little white piece of corrosion. Voila, there was no circuit below it. Water had lifted the copper off the board. As soon as he arched the circuit board with his screw driver the windows all worked.

He put a small line of soldier alone the broken circuit. Took him 5 seconds. Pheww!!

**Seems to me that when water gets in that switch it must run backward along the CBoard either because you are traveling fwd or the thing is slanted rearward. So when the power circuit is broken to one of the passenger windows it must shut them all down in series. I presume the power for those windows all runs through the lock out switch for the passenger windows.**

View attachment 47329 View attachment 47321

Pictures enclosed. Hope this helps, it sure helped me.

Everyone seems to have the drivers door working and the others doors inoperable. In my case, the drivers door is the one not working. All others are fine. Any suggestions?
 

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Looking at the power switch I am wondering if you can remove the square part which I think will have the remote functions on it so you dont have to reprogam it.

I might try this as our van has this issue and will need to ordr the part
 

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Also fixed the broken PCB trace

Had the same issue… only driver’s window worked, and the other 3 windows’ relays made the expected clicking noise when the driver side buttons were pushed, but there was no motion at all.
  1. Pop out the drivers side main window controller and disconnect the two white latching connectors from the back.
    Evernote Camera Roll 20160806 223206.jpg
  2. Remove 4 screws to separate the switch unit from the trim piece.
    Evernote Camera Roll 20160806 223239.jpg
  3. Unscrew the radio module.
    Evernote Camera Roll 20160806 223250.jpg
  4. Pop off the cover using a flathead screwdriver.
    Evernote Camera Roll 20160806 223419.jpg
  5. Remove the window lock button cap to release the circuit board.
    Evernote Camera Roll 20160806 223428.jpg
  6. Locate the trace to confirm the open circuit issue.
    Evernote Camera Roll 20160806 224724.jpg
  7. Cut back the plastic nibs and place a piece of electrical tape over them. There is one other place on the PCB that could be an issue in the future, near C52.
    Evernote Camera Roll 20160806 223556.jpg Evernote Camera Roll 20160806 223556.jpg
  8. Run a thin insulated stranded wire (on the opposite side of the PCB from where the wear occurred) from the associated via hole to the 4th large pin on the nearby module (just follow the trace carefully to identify the correct via and pin). Solder (adding fresh solder) and ensure it wicks into the new wire strands and "wets" to the existing connections.
    Evernote Camera Roll 20160806 223634.jpg
  9. Verify continuity with a meter and that the connections don't touch any unintended places.
  10. Replace the switch unit and play like a kid with all 4 windows.
 

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Hi everyone! New to this forum. Working fixing several things on the wife's 2005 Odyssey, one being the fact her Master Window Control switch will not open or close any of the windows in her van, however, the lock windows function seems to still work fine. All the windows operate fine from their dedicated switches, but the Master Control Switch doesn't do anything for any of the windows, including of course her window (the front driver's side). I followed the information in this thread for removing and taking apart the switch, so I could inspect it for any obvious corrosion, and I found none. Everything looked pristine. So I put it back together. Before I order a new replacement switch, I thought I would check and see if anyone had any other ideas that I could try. So far very impressed with the information found in this forum. Folks helping folks. This is great! Thank you!
 

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Thank you ALL so very much!!This is my first post - had the same issue, found the trace (thanks for all of the detailed pics).Repaired it.Windows all work!You guys all R O C K!Thanks again!Terry
 

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Thanks!!!

You saved me $178.

That was quick fix. just as pictured. Soldering to the board spot ML was a little tough for me, but this solved the problem!
 

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We have had the same issue and drove with the passenger window cracked open for over six months. Finally took it to the shop, they pinpointed the switch, but couldn’t find a replacement. Found this thread while looking for a work around, now it’s fixed. Wish I’d come here first, would have saved $60 diagnosis fee and the cigarette smoke the technician left behind! Thank you
 

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**Seems to me that when water gets in that switch it must run backward along the CBoard either because you are traveling fwd or the thing is slanted rearward. So when the power circuit is broken to one of the passenger windows it must shut them all down in series. I presume the power for those windows all runs through the lock out switch for the passenger windows.**

View attachment 47329 View attachment 47321

Pictures enclosed. Hope this helps, it sure helped me.
Thanks for the help!!! (x100) I stared at this board for 20 minutes and couldn't find anything, but I used the multimeter and finally realized that I have the same issue you had, except mine is a lot more subtle, and was impossible to see. It didn't look like a burn. More like a nick and not until I connected a wire to the right places did it show that it's finally connected.
For everyone else, my issue was basically the same, I can hear the clicking of relays in passenger and back windows attempting to move. But nothing moved (aka motor never kicked in)
 

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Thanks guys! I was trying to troubleshoot my window problem and stumbled across this post. Exact same failure, and soldering a jumper in place fixed the problem.

In case anyone else finds this thread with the same problem, I'll add this bit of advice: the fingers on the rockers for the rear windows can go into the circuit board switches wrong when assembling. I recommend re-assembly in the following order:

1. Drop the circuit board into the cavity in the big trim plate.

2. Put the circuit board retaining housing into place, but do not screw it down.

3. Insure the the fingers on the read window rockers are engaged in the proper place in the switches on the circuit board.

4. Install the four screws that secure the circuit board housing.

5. Test all four window control rockers to make sure they move in both directions.

6. Snap the back cover back into place.

7. Install the radio module.
 
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