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Main window switch control is cheap on eBay. Just pry up plastic piece on door and plug in new on. Easy.
Either cheap chinesium or worn out used stuff with the same problem. The fix he posted seems pretty good to me.
 

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2007 Honda Odessey
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Had the same issue… only driver’s window worked, and the other 3 windows’ relays made the expected clicking noise when the driver side buttons were pushed, but there was no motion at all.
  1. Pop out the drivers side main window controller and disconnect the two white latching connectors from the back.
  2. Remove 4 screws to separate the switch unit from the trim piece.
  3. Unscrew the radio module.
  4. Pop off the cover using a flathead screwdriver.
  5. Remove the window lock button cap to release the circuit board.
  6. Locate the trace to confirm the open circuit issue.
  7. Cut back the plastic nibs and place a piece of electrical tape over them. There is one other place on the PCB that could be an issue in the future, near C52.
  8. Run a thin insulated stranded wire (on the opposite side of the PCB from where the wear occurred) from the associated via hole to the 4th large pin on the nearby module (just follow the trace carefully to identify the correct via and pin). Solder (adding fresh solder) and ensure it wicks into the new wire strands and "wets" to the existing connections.
  9. Verify continuity with a meter and that the connections don't touch any unintended places.
  10. Replace the switch unit and play like a kid with all 4 windows.
So i Followed all the advice given in this post. Unfortunately the site isn't allowing me to see any attachments so i know exactly what you are talking about. I inspected the PCB but didn't notice any wear, burns or open circuits. I used a little magnifier glass that resembles what jewelers use to inspect their diamonds. :coolio: i cleaned it up with alcohol then meter tested the wires. It was very frustrating because it would test for positive connection the first time but then when double checked no connection. i could have been doing it wrong though.

i realize your post is from two years ago but do you still have the pictures? i'm at a loss for a resolution at this point since i'm an amateur trying to fix this problem.

Thanks in advance
 

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Had the same issue with 2007 honda Odyssey, drivers side window worked but all other were dead, read thru the threads and resolved the issue. thanks to you all for posting detailed steps and pics, made the fix a 15 min fix. AWESOME!!
 

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Only my driver window was working so I followed the advice on this post. Sure enough I saw the break in the trace just as the picture showed. I continued to do everything suggested, I even did my own soldering. And almost like a miracle my 4 windows are working again. I can't thank you enough for this post and the step-by-step instructions along with the excellent pics.
 

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Thanks to this post I managed to fix this same issue on my 2005 Odyssey!
The hardest part for me was trying to pry open the larger covering until I saw the post about removing the smaller covering and removing the small screw first.
 

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On my 05 odyssey I can't open passenger or back windows.Driver's window works fine then i try to open other windows a just hear a click sound from that window door....Anybody has same problems?
I’m having the exact same issue I had the battery replaced and now my driver window works fine but my passenger windows and the back windows will not roll down at all anymore and I hear the clicking sound as well and if you know how to fix it please please let me know
 

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I assume you checked the push button adjacent to the master window switches on the driver's door to make sure the child lock is not turned on.
 

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See post #20 in this thread.

It will involved opening up the window switch and doing some soldering.
It's not that hard to do as long as you have the tools.
 

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The issue and solution is discussed in this thread. Most likely a bad spot on the printed circuit board. Would require some soldering to fix.
 

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This is a pretty comprehensive thread, and after reading through, it appears that most of the issues happen in the Master window switch. I have a similar issue. My passenger window on 2005 Honda Odyssey wont open. It has almost 197K on it and I am the original owner. When I press the passenger window button on the master switch on the driver side, I hear clicking noise. The window wont open when I press the passenger window button either. I checked fuse # 4 (passenger window fuse - it was good). I checked Passenger window switch with multimeter, it seems to have connectivity (I did not know the circuit, I went one by one on the switch pins and the resistance went to zero on the multimeter in one of the combinations). I want to remove the master switch and check for connectivity but before I do that, I want to make sure, I am also aware of the reprogramming that might be needed. Here are the steps that I am thinking of:

1. Test with a 6/12v Circuit Tester with a light to ensure that there is power is flowing, Harbor Freight has them for about $4. - It does not appear that I need this step if I am hearing clicking on the passenger side, should I assume power is being delivered to the motor.
2. Check the master switch for continuity with a multimeter and and an alligator wire? Is there a way to identify which pins are meant for passenger window. If not skip and go directly to 3?
3. Replace with a new / refurb master switch from junkyard.

The key question: Once I disconnect the master switch, would I have to reprogram my remote as well master window automatic?
 

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One more thing, I also put the van on battery and had map lights on. I then pressed all the power window buttons one by one on the master switch, the map lights flicked each time. Makes me wonder if the master switch is ok if it is creating load on the battery.
 

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Just a note to say that I followed the instructions from the detailed images above and I was able to fix this issue in our 2007 Odyssey. Also, for anyone who hasn't soldered before, this was my first time soldering - I got a $20 kit on amazon and some flux and watched several 'how to solder' videos on youtube, which were very helpful. Was the fix pretty? No. Did it work. YES!

Thank you for the great info. This is the "umpteenth" time this forum has saved my hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars in repairs.
 

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Just wanted to say thanks for all the input here, I had the same issue come up yesterday (drivers window was the only one that would work) - pulled the switch out, soldered a wired in as instructed, and everything works great now!
 

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I just had this exact problem. With the lock switch off I hear a click (solenoid/relay?) from each door when I push that window's button. With the lock switch on there is nothing, as it should be. Drivers window is normal. Problem with the lock switch probably? I've checked all fuses and they are ok. I need to get a factory manual so I have electrical schematics. Anyone resolved this one before and can give me a lead?

Thanks
What did you end up finding out?
 

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After all this time I finally got around to poking around and doing a little troubleshooting on this issue. The factory service manual and electrical schematics are well done, and very helpful. After checking voltages it turned out to be somewhat as I had thought. Since I could hear a click at each window when I pressed the button it seemed that the signal was getting through but there was not power to run the motor to make the window respond. I traced it down to the power window solenoid that supplies power the all but the drivers window through fuses 24, 25, 26 in the drivers side under dash fuse box. I checked the solenoid and it worked when tested out of the circuit. I even swapped it out with another but when in circuit it failed to engage and get power to the windows. Note: the manual says not to use pliers to remove the solenoids because you can damage them, and they are right ;) . So I jumpered the solenoid socket with a paper clip (always a lot of fun:cool: ) and the windows all worked as they should. I'll look again soon, but there appears to be an issue with the fuse box itself where the relay plugs in. I've ohmed it out and the connections are all there but it doesn't connect properly when the relay is plugged in.
I have a 2010 odyssey, that this just happened to. I ordered a new driver door switch
Will this help?


Trouble Resetting That Power Window Control Unit? Check
This Out

’05–10 Odyssey

Having trouble manually resetting a power window
control unit? Here’s a procedure that we’ve found
works every time.

IMPORTANT: You must do this manual reset from
the power window switch of the affected window.
For example: If you’re resetting the driver’s power
window control unit, you must do it from the power
window master switch. And if you’re resetting the
front passenger’s power window control unit, you
must do it from the front passenger’s power window
switch.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Lower the window all the way down with the
power window switch.
3. Open the driver’s or front passenger’s door (it
doesn’t matter which).
4. Do each bullet in this step within 5 seconds of
each other. Do this entire step a total of
four times. This step clears the control unit’s
memory.
• Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
• Push down and hold the power window switch.
• Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
• Release the power window switch.
5. Make sure the auto-up feature doesn’t work. If it
still works, redo step 4, paying close attention to
the 5 second time limit for each bullet.
NOTE: Steps 6 and 7 teach the control unit the
window settings needed for the auto-up/down
feature. Keep in mind, if you’re resetting the front
passenger’s power window control unit, you can’t
work the front passenger’s window from the power
window master switch until that control unit has
learned the window settings.
6. Lower the window all the way down with the
power window switch.
7. Pull up and hold the power window switch until
the window goes all the way up, then keep
holding the switch for 1 second.
8. Make sure the auto-up/down feature works right
by lowering and raising the window with the
power window switch. If it doesn’t work right,
repeat this manual reset several times, paying
close attention to the 5 second time limit for each
bullet in step 4. If that still doesn’t work, then
troubleshoot the power window circuit.
ASN 42354
My windows wont GO down. Just the drivers windoq works
 

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You haven't overlooked the main switch? :unsure:

163332
 

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Hopefully someone who successfully did this repair can answer. I see the break, same spot. But I have only ever done soldering on much larger wiring, and quite honestly don't consider myself very good at it. That said, can anyone tell me what the proper soldering tool would be, OR if anyone has purchased an aftermarket switch with satisfactory results? Thanks.
 
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