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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Short story: I believe I have overcharged the freon.


Long story:
I took a 3 hour trip to Alabama a few weeks ago and on the way over there, my a/c stopped blowing cold air from the front vents. The back vents still blew cold air, however. On the way back, it would go from cold to not cold to cold, etc. in the front, and it's been that way since. Yesterday, I went to autozone and bought the big diy can to charge the freon. I managed to find the L cover and started charging the freon. The pressure gauge that was attached to the can would go from upper green to red at one point, and back to low green (and it is supposed to be in the green). It stayed in the green for the next 5 minutes, and I was just going to empty the can until the engine started to lower its rpms, sounding like it was struggling. So, I turned it off and took off the can with about a 1/5 of it remaining. Today, I drove it and it's ice cold. However, if I put just the front vents on to level 3 blowing with it recirculating on max cold, I feel the engine struggling and hear a clicking/slight knocking. With it off, there's no noise or lack of power (I mean it has the normal powerful van engine :)). I opened up the hood, and I saw stained L cap with some more stained around the engine block.


So, what can I do? Does it sound like there is too much freon in there? If I drive around with the L cap off, will that release some extra freon? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I checked the pressure and it said that it was 50 psi (in the upper green). Also, I would say that the clicking is coming from the compressor (just a guess). Has anyone heard this/know what this means??
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Im new to the a/c system, so I don't know where those would be. Please let me know.

But now its so bad that even when Im driving with it on 1, the engine feels like it will die on me. There is a definite lack of power and the knocking noise is present. I had originally said it was on the compressor side but it moves, which makes me think something is being pushed around inside the pipes?? Is that likely? But, when I turn the ac off, the van drives as normal. Im afraid the car will either shut off or something will burst if I drive with it on for more than a minute.
 

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Im new to the a/c system, so I don't know where those would be. Please let me know.

But now its so bad that even when Im driving with it on 1, the engine feels like it will die on me. There is a definite lack of power and the knocking noise is present. I had originally said it was on the compressor side but it moves, which makes me think something is being pushed around inside the pipes?? Is that likely? But, when I turn the ac off, the van drives as normal. Im afraid the car will either shut off or something will burst if I drive with it on for more than a minute.
standing in front of the van, looking straight down by the coolant overflow the round can looking thing.

a factory manual would help you 200%
i have found a few on ebay for odyssey as well as oasis in a range of years (isuzu same thingy, still a honda publacation )

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1995...Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item4cf8bdcd15
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1996...Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item4cddcf9c01

filter/drier looks like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UAC-...=Make:Honda|Model:Odyssey&hash=item19bef641f9
 

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oh my wifes ody was doing sorta the same thing last year,... the drier/filter took care of it.

i could tell it was clogged,. i had it sucked down,. took off the old filter and had a buttload of pressure on the other side, even after it being sucked down
 

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Take it to an A/C specialist and have it diagnosed. Don't use the A/C till you do.

Your original complaint was front air bad/rear air good... Front and rear share same compressor/lines/condenser/dryer. If one is cold then the basic system is fine and you have a specific problem with the front air (in your case). Your original trouble description almost sounds like a blend door problem but I am not yet familiar enough with the series 1 Ody system yet to be positive of this. Most Japanese A/C systems don't even use a blend door. You also may have a front expansion valve with trash in it.

Running a 134 system over-charged leads to some SEVERE pressures and can cause compressor destruction which it sounds like you are close to now!
It's possible to see 350 psi (high side) in a fully charged system on a real hot day. Overcharged???? Maybe 500-600 psi. A clogged expansion valve in the front system would only make this high side pressure go even higher as the total available flow path is seriously restricted. A/C go BANG!

System needs to be evacuated (amount noted!). Recharged with exactly the correct amount (in ounces/grams not "cans") and then performance tested using a specific procedure checklist.

A buddy of mine owns an A/C shop (with a seriously good rep!) and this is a common procedure at his shop. He charges approx $100 for this service (+ freon if needed). You probably will NOT need any extra and the machine automatically "recycles" what's in the system. A good A/C shop will not charge you for freon if you have enough when you drive in. They won't pay you for your "extra" either...

I am fast learner and I wasn't really good at A/C work for the first 3 months I did it. I was an import car technician (dealership and aftermarket shops) for 20+ years. Not only are the pressures important, how the guage needles react to changes is as well and only hands-on experience can give a tech this knowledge.

This is NOT the type of thing for a DIY. The evacuation, diagnosis and recharging/re-testing needs to be done by someone with experience.

The actual bolting of A/C parts on the car is super easy and can be completed DIY. If the shop says "you need A,B,C part" ask them to retain your freon and allow you to come back later after you have replaced the parts to have it re-charged. Expect to pay something extra for this service. A good shop might agree to this (although not usually during their busy season-NOW). Don't expect them to guarantee anything regarding work of this nature.

One final note: If the shop says the compressor is shot and they don't also mention either cleaning or replacing the condensor core, replace reciever dryer, flushing the lines and usually replacing the expansion valves DO NOT let them repair your car. Normal compressor death puts all sorts of aluminum/nylon/plastic particals throughout the system. If they are NOT removed you will have further trouble down the road. From your descriptions you are more than 50% likely to have compressor trouble now.

Hope this helped!
 

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I agree with tech ninja your complaint was front bad rear good. Well since it is a split system that shares a dryer either both side would be bad or both would be good if it was the dryer. That being said I would think the problem is the valve attached to the evap under the dash. They aren't hard to replace and the cost is pretty cheap, but you would still need to take the van to a shop to have the system vacuumed down and then refilled after the repair.

If you really want to tackle this your self, get it vacuumed and I can walk you through it. But honestly if you have to pay for removal and charging of the freon anyway you might as well just have the shop do it all.

And yes the system is more that likely over charged and shouldn't be used until at least some freon is removed.
 
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