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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All, This is my first post. My mom has a 2000 odyssey that a friend and I just botched the timing belt replacement on. It now has no compression on the #2 cylinder most likely due to a bent valve.

I see two options at this point.

#1 Pull the head and hopefully repair the damaged valves on an engine with 200K miles. Compression is 145 to 150 on the good cylinders.

#2 Buy a 2001 engine with 88K miles for $700 and install it.

I am leaning toward option #2 with a used engine but after two hours of searching this forum I can't find any posts where someone has detailed the challenges in pulling and reinstalling an engine.

I did see one post where it was estimated at a one to two weekend job with a helper or as little as one day if someone had experience with it.

Can anyone advise on the feasibility of two resourceful diy shade tree mechanics swapping out one engine for another?

Is the factory service manual the best source of instructions for pulling an engine? and is it available in PDF format online anywhere?

Is it silly to do this without first pulling the head off the damaged cylinder and attempting a repair? or should I focus my time and money on where it will realize the most benefit and buy the lower mileage used motor?

Thanks for any input
Karl
 

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Buy your mother a new van. By the time you get through botching it will be cheaper. A 2k with 200k isn't worth much to start with. I can hear your mother swearing from here.
 

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Ha, you guys are brutal. I wouldn't bother repairing the head personally, someone else on here tried it only to have more issues. You could get a used head cheap though. I think the engine swap is similar to the tranny swap, drop the whole cradle down and lift the body high enough to slide it out. Google Odyssey FSM pdf and you might find the manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Mike, thanks for the input and opinion on engine swap vs head repair.

In one post I ran across information suggesting that not all engines are interchangeable.

Any idea if there are potential compatibility problems putting an 01 engine in an 00 odyssey?

Thanks,
Karl
 

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Mike, thanks for the input and opinion on engine swap vs head repair.

In one post I ran across information suggesting that not all engines are interchangeable.

Any idea if there are potential compatibility problems putting an 01 engine in an 00 odyssey?

Thanks,
Karl
I'm not sure about which ones are compatible. There should be a number on it somewhere. There may also be a number stamped into the head if you go that route. If you do swap the whole engine you may as well change the timing belt on the new one before it goes in.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I bought the used 01 engine for $650 and decided to go that route. My buddy devised a plan to pull the engine/trans out the topside rather than dropping the subframe and lifting the van over it.

Thanks for all the input so far.

Both transmission mounts and the rear engine mount had failed. The axle seals on the transmission were also leaking so they too got replaced along with the input/pumpshaft seal.

This was also a good opportunity to clean the screens under the transmission solenoids and add an inline trans filter.
 

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I'm not sure it'll come out the top.:huh:

Go to alldatadiy.com and subscribe for $26 for a year. You'll have access to all the step by step procedures, shop manual drawings, etc. I used it when I rebuilt my transmission, and it was very good.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm not sure it'll come out the top.:huh:
QUOTE]

I can't see how it could either. There is little room between the firewall and radiator. :huh:
Pull the radiator and drill out the spotwelds holding the radiator brace on the left and right. Cut the upright supports.

Welding the sheet metal back in is easy and since the van is white, touching up the welds is a lot easier than metallic colors.

The only hassle was mating the third shaft in the tranny with the tc. With two guys it worked its way in.

Also the power steering developed a slight air leak that was easily identified and remedying after searching this forum for noisy pump.

Need to put a few miles on it but all seems good now.

Oh yeah, All but the front transverse engine mount were broken incl trans mounts.

Added a magnefine filter, flushed cooler, cleaned solenoid screens and added 8 quarts of new honda atf.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So did you replace the TB on the new engine before it went in?
You have me wondering what a "TB" is. Throttle body perhaps? If so I used the one off the original engine.
Is there a standard protocol for replacing throttle body?

Thanks for the input and support on a challenging project.

Karl
 

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You have me wondering what a "TB" is. Throttle body perhaps? If so I used the one off the original engine.
Is there a standard protocol for replacing throttle body?

Thanks for the input and support on a challenging project.

Karl
Timing Belt. Much easier to replace while the engine is out of the vehicle.
 

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remove engine from above

For anyone who is interested, it IS possible to remove the engine from the top in a 99-01 without drilling out welds in the radiator support.

I had to separate the engine and trans in my 2000 Odyssey to fix a bad rear main seal leak. The OE Service manual says to take the trans and the engine/trans assembly out from the bottom. I don't have a 2-post lift, I didn't like the idea of removing all of the suspension parts, subframe, drive shafts, steering, re-alignment, etc. Here is how I did it:

- Remove intake air duct
- Remove battery and tray
- Unhook throttle and cruise control cables
- Disconnect fuel line and return hose at the engine
- Disconnect PCM connectors (to the right of the accel pedal inside the car), loosen nuts holding the engine wiring harness grommet to the firewall, and pull the PCM connector through to the engine side.
- Remove battery cable, and disconnect all electrical connectors that are not on the engine
- Drain oil and coolant. I drained ATF too since it was time for a fluid replacement.
- Disconnect vacuum lines to the engine and radiator hoses and heater hoses
- Remove power steering pump. Disconnect the return hose at the pump. Pull the pump out of the way and secure it
- Remove alt belt and A/C compressor.
- Jack under the subframe near the lower control arm mount and place jack stands at the jack points behind the wheels. Remove wheels.
- Remove exhaust. With 16 years in road salt and 268k miles, I thought this was going to be a disaster. With an overnight soak in PB Blaster and Kroil, they came out w/o breaking.
- Remove the right intermediate drive shaft mount to the block
- Remove TC cover and remove 8 bolts holding the drive plate to the TC. Rotate crank shaft by the pulley to access all bolts.
- Remove engine/trans bolts on the bottom side of the engine.
- Remove front and rear engine mount bolts
- Hook up an engine hoist with a load leveling bar. I used the loop provided on the right side by the steering pump and a chain around the intake manifold inlet. Make sure you take as many links out as possible so the hoist has enough stroke so the engine clears the radiator.
- Remove the right engine mount.
- Remove the VTEC unit (thing that the oil filter screws into)
- Remove the starter and remaining trans to engine bolts, separate the engine from trans and start to lift the engine
- Lift up the engine partway. Remove the alternator, and ignition coils
- I also to remove the front exhaust manifold and the studs. Again, I thought this would be a disaster, but the studs came out very easily with a couple of jam nuts tightened into each other. Honda must use some really good bolt coatings.
- Remove one of the jack stands with a floor jack under the control arm by the lower ball joint and lower as far as you can go.
- Lift the engine high enough to clear the radiator and you're home free.

Hope this helps someone. IMG_0333.jpg IMG_0331.jpg
 
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