[davedrivesody]

The blue part #4 is the clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B. Failure can cause delayed engagement of D or R, or shock or flaring during shifts.

The purple parts #28 are the shift solenoid valves A (upper) and C (lower). Failure of A can cause erratic shifts, or failure to upshift from 1. Failure of C can cause delayed engagement of D or R, or shock or flaring on all shifts above 2nd gear.

The orange one is the clutch pressure control solenoid valve C. Failure can cause flaring or shocks on the 4-5 or 5-4 shifts, or no or rough torque converter lockup.

Hope that gets you started.

Dave

 

[davedrivesody]

The front green one is shift solenoid B. Failure could cause no upshift or launch in 4th.

The rear (by an inch or so) green one is the torque converter clutch solenoid valve. Failure could cause poor acceleration, engine idle vibration, or no torque converter lockup or unlock.

A cold shift problem is usually caused by a sticky internal valve, in the valve body for example.

Are you running a good quality synthetic ATF? It's better at cleaning and preventing varnish buildup in the tight confines of those bores. I'm no fan at all of additives, but maybe research an ATF additive that scores high on cleaning up the internals. Last resort would be, hate to say it, the dreaded rebuild. It's a shame because your transmission seems to be in good shape overall.

Dave

 

[davedrivesody]

After all the obvious causes of a problem have been eliminated, I open a "white sheet" i.e. anything goes, from "are you crazy?!" to "why didn't I think of that?!". The following is probably the former...

A possible cause might be a sticking hydraulic pressure regulator valve. Failure would cause excessive hydraulic pressure and so rapid clutch engagement with resulting hard shifts. Your rough shifts are in all gears, which use different switches and clutches, so the cause would seem to be systemic, such as, but not limited to, the pressure regulator valve.

The pressure regulator valve is accessible only by disassembling the transmission. However, it can be tested without removing it.

The transmission has test ports on the housing for line plus all 5 clutches. Normal pressure is 130 to 140 PSI at 2,000 RPM.

Dave

 

[davedrivesody]

Thanks for the detailed problem description!

While I digest that, simple question: Did you source the new solenoids from Honda or aftermarket?

Dave

 

[davedrivesody]

...snip... Do I need to drain the ATF, are there any adjustments and any pre-cautionary suggestion prior detaching each solenoid?

No need to drain the ATF when replacing a solenoid. They are above the level of fluid in the sump.

Most are straight forward R&R, but some need a heads-up before you dive in e.g. small parts that come out when the solenoid is removed. Several threads here on the forum describe the procedure and the potential gotcha's.

...snip... Oh, I also heard detaching both hoses on each end of transmission cooler and blow out possible debris using air compressor might help and does it matter which end to blow it? Please advise.

Use a liquid cleaner specially for this purpose, such as this one. NAPA AUTO PARTS

Dave

 

[davedrivesody]

Did you replace the starter and the battery because of the same problem - getting just a click when you turn the key?

If so (same problem), I would suspect a faulty heavy cable from the battery to the starter.

If not (different problem), the new starter could be defective.

Dave

PS: The thread you joined is about transmission solenoids. Your question is unrelated to that, so you ought to have started a new thread. It might have gotten more attention.

 

[davedrivesody]

Welcome to Odyclub.

color coded transmission parts diagram

Sorry, I don't know the source of the diagram the original poster showed. The original poster hasn't been around in almost 10 years.

What year is your Ody? I can post a black/white parts diagram - it's not as good, but better than nothing.

 

[davedrivesody]

2004 ODYSSEY Minivan EX (RES) 5-Spd Auto - 49 State Emissions (KA)

AT Sensor - Solenoid (5At)

Same diagram as in your other thread, but without the color. It's from the Honda parts catalog.

#10 front is shift solenoid valve A. Failure can cause erratic shifts, or failure to upshift from 1st gear.

#11 top is shift solenoid valve B. Failure can cause no shifting in D.

#11 front is shift solenoid valve C. Failure can cause delayed engagement of D or R, or shock or flaring on all shifts above 2nd gear.

#6 is the clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B. Failure can cause delayed engagement of D or R, or shock or flaring during shifts.

#7 is the clutch pressure control solenoid valve C. Failure can cause flaring or shocks on the 4-5 or 5-4 shifts, or no or rough torque converter lockup.

#10 top is the torque converter clutch solenoid valve.

 

[davedrivesody]

When you say "delayed engagement " shifting ... do you mean it will shift ... but it's just taking longer than it should ?

Yes, exactly.

Do you think shutting it off for about 10 minutes and then turning it back on ... and immediately finding the shift problem was gone ... has anything to do with what might be causing the problem ?

There could be a clue there, but frankly I'm at a loss to identify it.

There's not much in common between shifting from P, to R or D. e.g. D engages the 1st clutch on the secondary shaft, R the 5th on the main shaft.

Here's what they have in common:

• They both obviously use the output of the hydraulic pump, but hydraulic pressure failure usually causes shifting problems, not clunks.
• They both add resistance to the torque converter stator output shaft, but I've never heard of a TC clunking.
• They both eventually transmit engine torque to the differential, which is a purely mechanical device. A clunk from that unit could be a possibility (e.g. worn bearing), but I would expect it to occur with every shift out of P, not just those before a brief shutdown.

There is a well-documented symptom of a clogged hydraulic system whereby shutting off the engine for a short time revives a previously inoperative transmission. But that isn't the problem with yours.

If the transmission fluid is anything less than pristine, change it out. This is always step #0 when this transmission goes balky in any way. In any case, it should be drained and refilled at every other engine oil change.

It also has an external filter that should be changed. It's #8 in this diagram:
2004 ODYSSEY Minivan EX (RES) 5-Spd Auto - 49 State Emissions (KA)

AT Atf Pipe (5At)

Part Number: 25450-P7W-003
Price: $88.83
Replacement isn't trivial, but not too difficult either. Search the forum for the procedure, or if you are interested I can PM you the procedure I cobbled together from others' contributions.

How many miles are on it?

 

[davedrivesody]

shudder stops when D3 is pressed

Don't know for sure, but D3 may block torque converter lockup. So the shudder may be a failing TC lockup clutch.

shudders on gears 2-5

Could it be gears 3 to 5? Those are the gears in which the TC may lock up.