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Has anyone changed the rear 12V accessory outlet to "always hot"? If so, what's the best way to accomplish this? Thanks in advance.
 

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Both the front and rear Acc. sockets and the radio are controlled by acc. relay in the passenger fusebox. You'll have to cut and extend the positive wire of the socket directly to the battery (with 15A fuse) or the white wire from the ignition.

-Harry
 

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If I made the socket hot all the time, then when I start the engine, will I damage any electronics that are connected to it ?
 

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I don't believe it would, 12 volt electronics can operate with voltage as low as 9 volts. The alternator has a built-in regulator, it won't produce more than 15 volts output.

Here is a way to see it for your self: hook up a voltmeter directly to the battery terminals and start the engine, you'll see the voltage drops when the starter engages and back on to around 14 volts when the engine runs. If your battery is fully charged, the voltage will hover around 13.8 volts.

Of couse, if you convert your acc. socket to hot at all time and you plug something into it, you need to be sure to turn it off otherwise it will drain your batttery.

-Harry
 

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Why would you want to do this? You may forget to turn it off. If it is a 3 amp or lesser accessory, you can tap off the hot lead on the rear domelight (pull out the weather seal to get to the domelight wires)..

If you must modify it to a hot lead, you may be able to save yourself a run of wire by going to the cigarette lighter in the back, checking for color of the wire, then locating the same wire color at the front (near driver or passenger door sill), test to make sure it shows 12v with acc, CUT IT, attach fused contant lead to REAR CARGO DOOR side of cut wire. Have fun.



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Why would I want to do this? So my emergency strobe magmounted to the roof during public service events would continue to run while I'm parked at a scene, for example


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'01 DEP EX in Fairview Park, Ohio
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Gotcha! Then you do need it.

Remove the domelight from the rear of the cargo area (the one closest to the rear door) - tap the positive wire only, run the one wire 18 gauge at least down to the cigarette lighter plug, cut lead to center terminal, connect lead from domelight. Ground is on the outside surround (may be welded onto lighter plug)

Good luck.

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Another option, and one that's pretty easy to implement is to install additional, always on, power outlets.

When we mounted a CD changer under the driver's seat, we tapped into the power seat motor circuits (there are two of them) right under the seat. These are always hot and already fused for 20A. We added additional fuses to allow for tighter fusing.

Power outlets can be mounted in standard 4" square electrical "handy boxes," the kind with three 1/2" conduit knockouts on each edge. A cover keeps all the wires enclosed. We mounted the box vertically next to the changer, suspended from a piece of bar stock attached to the same bolts that hold the seat to the riser.

Mel
 

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Igloo makes this device that may solve the problem of draining the battery. It's for their IGLOO thermoelectric coolers. Should handle 5 amps DC.

http://www.igloo-parts-store.com/cgi-bin/sgsh0130.exe?FNM=01&GEN0=hd-cat01a.gif&SKW=allthermoelectricsparts&UID=2001062809065822&CODIV=0130


Kool Mate Battery Guard
• Protects car battery when engine is off but active cooling product is on.
• Automatically turns product off when battery drains to 10.5v.
• Product turns back on when vehicle is restarted.
• New universal-style plug.

Price: $ 29.99
Item#: IGL 8040



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David
'01 GG EX, Full Nose Mask, Cargo Tray, Splash Guards, Leather steering Wheel Cover
 
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