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Discussion Starter #1
I had SPG rear camber arms installed several years ago on my 2011 due to negative camber as well. Like many others have said, they don't last. MIne started started squeeking / making noise. Via this forum, I did recently determine an alternative, Moog RK100121 Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly. Added bonus is that the Moog's have a Zerk fitting.

So here's the question. Did any of you guys self install your replacement arms? I'm trying to determine if this is something I can tackle myself. Any insight would be appreciated, including torque specs, etc.
 

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Piece of cake
 

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You will need an alignment afterwards - though I bet you are aware of that...

-Charlie
 

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I remember a little wrestling to line up the hole but nothing a longer drift pin couldn't handle. I cannot find the receipt for my "arms" to see the mfg . They have zerks and when installing new KYB rear shocks last week I tried moving them and they were tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I remember a little wrestling to line up the hole but nothing a longer drift pin couldn't handle. I cannot find the receipt for my "arms" to see the mfg . They have zerks and when installing new KYB rear shocks last week I tried moving them and they were tight.
Thanks for the response John U. Any idea how long it took you? I haven't taken the wheel off yet, but I assume this is tucked up pretty far under the van? I'm amazed there's no YouTube video available on the Odyssey for this upgrade.
 

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I had SPG rear camber arms installed several years ago on my 2011 due to negative camber as well. Like many others have said, they don't last. MIne started started squeeking / making noise. Via this forum, I did recently determine an alternative, Moog RK100121 Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly. Added bonus is that the Moog's have a Zerk fitting.

So here's the question. Did any of you guys self install your replacement arms? I'm trying to determine if this is something I can tackle myself. Any insight would be appreciated, including torque specs, etc.
put the originals back on.

avoid moog junk.
 

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Thanks for the response John U. Any idea how long it took you? I haven't taken the wheel off yet, but I assume this is tucked up pretty far under the van? I'm amazed there's no YouTube video available on the Odyssey for this upgrade.
They are not that bad, only two nuts per side. You will need a jack stand body to keep the rear hub from flopping around...if memory is correct. The inner nut is kinda hidden. There's a cotter pin if memory is correct which kills time removing. I'm guessing 45 minutes a side. The two rear shocks were under an hour from start to torquing the lug nuts.
 

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I'd guess an hour a side, maybe 2.5 hours when it's all said and done for your first time. There are a few lines brake and ABS i think that you will want to unclip and free up to get out of your way. Remove the shocks. Then it's just freeing up the ball joint to remove and replace the control arms. When tightening the back bolt/nut you need to have all the weight on the suspension in order for that bushing to be properly oriented. With the right tools it's not a hard job.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'd guess an hour a side, maybe 2.5 hours when it's all said and done for your first time. There are a few lines brake and ABS i think that you will want to unclip and free up to get out of your way. Remove the shocks. Then it's just freeing up the ball joint to remove and replace the control arms. When tightening the back bolt/nut you need to have all the weight on the suspension in order for that bushing to be properly oriented. With the right tools it's not a hard job.
Thanks for the information Buddur! I'll give this a try when the weather here cools down.
 
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