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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I had the rear main seal replaced along with the pcv valve just over 5k miles ago.-cost me $650- Has been dry since performing this repair until now! 2000 odyssey with 160k, original transmission. Have a few drops of oil in the driveway every morning, only after driving the day before. (dripping from between the engine and transmission, pooling on bottom of transmission-it is definitely oil.) Does not drip when not used for a day or two. I have done the ERG port cleaning. I am throwing a p0420 code. Any assitance greatly appreciated. Dazed and confused.
-Converted Volvo owner.- Honda or nothing!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well...

That look like a pain in the ...
Thanks Man!
 

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Porous aluminum strikes again.

I think my sister-in-law's Sienna has a porous aluminum transmission case. Always damp with ATF, collects grime, but no visible leak path. I've seen red ATF once, but never a drop on the driveway or garage floor.

OF
 

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engine main seal leaking - As for engine additives. I have a 2003 Honda Odyssey with a leaking engine main seal to the transmission. The Odyssey now has 152000 miles, transmission was replaced by Honda (the tranmission was free from Honda, I paid the labor) and replaced the main seal @ 77,000 miles. We put in a new engine mail seal again @ 130,000. I did not want to do this again as it cost in the neighborhood of $800 so with advise on line I used ATP Re-Seal, 8 oz. (AT205) for about $15. Drove 500 miles on and off. And put the van on a lift saw no leaks, wiped the area, and lifted it again for tire rotation in another 250 miles and it was still dry. I can say it worked for me, and I am impressed. I hope this helps someone else.
 

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I am tired of wetness under the engine so decided to try this product (ATP Re-Seal, 8 oz. (AT205) ) based on your recommendation. I will update this thread with my experience and results in a few months.
Thanks.
 

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Just beware that unscrupulous shops may simply change the PCV valve which results in fixing the problem and them claim that they also replaced the rear main seal (big bucks!). Its better to see if the leak gets fixed by changing the PCV valve yourself first.
 

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FYI: I have replaced the PCV valve and the oil leaks I have been experiencing seem to have disappeared. It is too soon to be 100% sure so I am going to observe for oil leaks for some more time and report here. Root cause for oil leaks could be a bad PCV valve, not necessarily a failed gasket which is what the shops would have you believe and charge big bucks for it, no matter what.
 

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FYI: I have replaced the PCV valve and the oil leaks I have been experiencing seem to have disappeared. It is too soon to be 100% sure so I am going to observe for oil leaks for some more time and report here. Root cause for oil leaks could be a bad PCV valve, not necessarily a failed gasket which is what the shops would have you believe and charge big bucks for it, no matter what.
Did your oil leaks return or did the PCV valve fix it?
 

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No leaks.. it was the PCV valve.. defective valve was making the pressure rise inside the engine compartment and engine oil was leaking from the weakest point along the seal because of that. The scammers/dealers wont tell you the fix is such a simple thing.. why would they because they make only $25 when they could blatantly lie then try to pursuade you to part with $5000 and replace a rear main seal that doesnt need replacement (or worse not even replace the seal and yet claim they did it)?. F them.
I did not pour the ATP reseal because I was a bit nervous given one or two bad experiences. I didnt need to use that.
 

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Just beware that unscrupulous shops may simply change the PCV valve which results in fixing the problem and them claim that they also replaced the rear main seal (big bucks!). Its better to see if the leak gets fixed by changing the PCV valve yourself first.
That's exactly what I thought too, when reading the OP's 2010 posting just now. The $650 price for the rear main seal replacement seemed pretty cheap - maybe too cheap.
 
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