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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all my car enthusiasts!! Long time car guy here, and I have to say I really like this site. Lots of useful information.

I love working on cars, modifying them, auto-x, drag race, etc.... So after driving my wife's 2004 Ody, I decided to get another one. They are plenty cheap, working on them is pretty easy, and there's sh*t tons of room once you get the seats out and the rear folded down. The only thing I have not liked is the handling. Yes, I know, it's a freaking mini van. When you come from daily driving a CRX for over 10 years (many mods including full suspension) to driving one of these vans and it feels like it's about to tip over if you take any turn spiritedly. So with that in mind and knowing that a rear sway bar is one of the absolute best mods you can do to a front wheel drive car (especially if it has NO rear sway bar) is to do this mod.

For years my dad has done this same thing. He has added sway bars to numerous cars. I can remember helping him in the garage fitting bars to different cars that had no rear bar. So, I guess I'm following in his foot steps. I actually had planned on doing this mod well before I saw Aardvark's sway bar mod.

So, here's what I used.

An Eibach rear sway bar meant for a 2010 Corvette. It's 25mm and it's hollow.
End link bushings from my 1996 Mustang that were just laying around.
The body bushings are from a 2015 Toyota Tundra Eibach aftermarket rear sway bar.
And finally, I used grade 8 hardware on the endlinks and class 10.9 on the body bushings.

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Sorry for the crappy pics, I'll get some better pics later. Oh and for the top mount for the body bushings, I used some 1/8th inch steel plating to that it wouldn't rip or distort that part of the body/floor pan.
 

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Pics of the plates would be much appreciated. I recently checked, and that part of my 2003's luggage well actually flexes when I give it a good push with my hand. It's not confidence-inspiring. If you have a way of really, really beefing it up, I am very interested.

OF
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok will do on the pics....

Also, just a quick update. After driving the car now for about a week now, I gotta say it's way, way better than it was before. I do get a little body flex, which I can hear, so I will probably make an even beefier top plate. Right now, it's probably not enough and over time might cause an issue. But for now, it's pretty good. I had my wife drive it and she can even notice a difference.

Anyone selling some drop springs?
 

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Aaaaagh, why weren't you around when I was selling my set of H&R's a while, while back???!!! I could've dropped them off while visiting family down in Houston.

Seriously, H&R has decent drop on the front end, just a little too much on the back, for the 2nd gen Odysseys. I had to fit a pair of rubber spring spacers on the rear coils to raise them up about 3/8", and the result was very solid looking with 235/50R18 Pirelli Scorpions on Hyundai Santa Fe 6-spoke wheels (41mm offset). The handling was tough to beat, since the Odyssey is really just a big car with well-designed independent suspension on all four corners. The CG drop with stiffer springs and 50-series tires really made it handle well.

I'm still trying to figure how to mount the bar to avoid tearing the luggage well sheet metal, since I have a fairly stout 7/8" bar, and it's solid bar stock about 48-1/4" from eye-to-eye (IIRC). I had an epiphany this morning...use Aardvark's setup on the LCA's, but fitted to the top of the LCA. I'll have to crawl underneath the old van tonight to give this an eyeball's worth of attention.

OF
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here's a pic of my top mount on the passenger side:

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Sorry for the crappy pic, the camera on my cell phone sucks. Anyways, that plate is about an 1/8" thick and is the same for both sides. I check it almost every other day to see if it's flexing on the uni-body, and so for nothing has moved.
 

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That looks substantial enough. Thank you for the pic. :cool: Any flex in the luggage well sheet metal? In terms of strength & rigidity, the sheet metal in my luggage well is not confidence-inspiring at all. :(

Next question: how did you affix the sway bar end link to the lower control arm? I see the part of the link that goes through the "eye" of the sway bar end, but what does it look like where it all attaches to the control arm? Your setup where it bolts to the luggage well is quite similar to the one built by Aardvark; where it bolts up to the LCA is quite a bit different?

OF
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No sir, so far no flex and I've been putting a straight edge along the bottom so that I can tell if there's any extra day light between the edge of the ruler and the bottom of the uni-body.

I actually drilled holes in the lower controls arms. I drilled the holes into a place on the control arm that would not compromise their structural integrity. I thought it was going to be a pain in the arse, but I was able to drill a pilot hole and then step that all the way up to 1/2" and use 12mm grade 8 hardware. I used some poly bushings that I had from another old sway bar I had on hand.

Since the sway bar was at a weird angle to the control arm, I actually drilled the holes at an angle as well. It was weird at first, but once I got the pilot hole drilled on the LCA all the rest just drilled out, of course you'd get some bit binding sometimes stepping up to the larger bit.... Just be careful not to twist your wrist in half.
 
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