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I have an '03 Odyssey, about 3yrs after buying it the rear right motor went, thankfully it was under warranty and the dealer replaced both. Now 7 yrs later the left one failed again. Anyone suffering from this same issue?
 

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I have an '03 Odyssey, about 3yrs after buying it the rear right motor went, thankfully it was under warranty and the dealer replaced both. Now 7 yrs later the left one failed again. Anyone suffering from this same issue?
Hey wolfie,

As mentioned this is a VERY common ody issue. Here is a link to the thread with the fix:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/9-problems-concerns/39806-rear-vent-windows.html

I just fixed the driver and passenger side motors on my 03 Ody two days ago. They work like a charm now.

-jeff
 

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I wish there was a like button here. Good find combatkarl!

CK
 

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Zoinks... my windows died too....

I'm a new Odyssey owner of a 2003 with 72k on her. Everything is good with the exception of the rear windows and MAYBE the trans is starting to show some signs - but then again - I wait about 2-3 seconds after putting it in drive and I feel a 2nd tug on the trans, THEN I give it gas. So far - the trans seems to be fine!

I've read a bunch on the site but only found 1 article which explains how to get the motors off and repair them. I got the passenger motor out and will work on that after Easter but wanted to check something with the thread participants:

If I connect the motor to a 9 volt battery - then I can test to see if the motor is my problem? COOL - IF I'm right!

For those who performed the modification to the motor - how long did the fix work for you: days, months, years???

I took the driver side one off first and will try and go through the speaker hole to get the passenger one out next. I will also get the plastic pegs as I have broken only 1 of them, but I'm sure more will follow. I also lost a bolt when removing the assembly - I tried using a magnetic 'wand' to retrieve it but no luck... I'm sure 3 will be enough to hold it!

Any other suggestions? Feedback appreciated!
 

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ifixit method - fix

Has anyone tried the fix described in ifixit document? That one with soldering pigtail on both side of thermistor and join those wires with 194LL bulb. Our 2002 had similar issue like others. Only motor works when I take them apart and connect power source. It doesn't work when I put the motor back to opener unit. Of course, I tested the gear drive part separately, it rotates freely fine.

Anyway I followed that document and completed that fix and tested using 9v battery. Now the whole window opener unit is working fine. But according to the ifixit document, the bulb I just attached should illuminate a bit when the opener reach fully open or close position. It's not doing that, but motor drive is working fine without any hesitation. I tested the bulb alone with 9v battery, it works fine as well.

I haven't put the motor unit back to the van to test it yet. The document says not to proceed if the bulb doesn't illuminate. I'm afraid I will cause some serious issue if I connect this unit to the van. Or is it possible, to illuminate that bulb, full 12v required from vehicle instead of 9v battery?

The weird part is the whole unit works just fine even without that bulb with those wires hanging. I don't understand how all of sudden it started working without that bulb.

Any thoughts?
 

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Update:

I installed that window motor unit in the van (it's driver side motor) yesterday, everything is fine. Tried many times, it's still working, no hesitation at all.

I have a theory how the opener unit stared working all of sudden before I complete attaching bulb in those wires. One of the motor connector is actually 3 pieces, first metal end start from power plug and another metal piece connects to the motor's terminal. These 2 metal pieces soldered together with a thermistor (thin black layer) in the middle and made it as one metal connector. The other connector line is just one piece starts from power plug to motor.

Any during wire solder on that 3 pieces connector, I was holding it at one end using plier, which melted solder that was holding them all together and broke into 2 pieces. Anyway I added little more solder on the thermistor and solder them all together. But this time I was holding those 3 pieces together when I heated up that connector for soldering. I believe this made connection and resistance level on that connector back to when it was new. That's why it's working without any bulb.

To test my theory, today I removed window motor unit from passenger side which was also suddenly stopped working. Took the motor out and removed connector with thermistor from power plug. Measured resistance level using multi-meter, it was at 14.7. Now while holding those 3 pieces together, I started heating up using soldering iron and applied little pressure on the plier to make sure they all bond well again. After waited couple of minutes to cool down, measured resistance lever. This time it was only 0.7 - 0.8. Assembled them all together and install it on the van. It's still working even after tried more than 10 times so far.

Hope this helps for someone in the future.
 

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To tnirmal regarding your fix

tnirmal, I read the iFix method and really temped to try it. If I understand it correctly, the point is to replace a broken thermistor with the bulb which has a thermistor in it. Because the old thermistor's failure mode is high resistance, it is OK to solder the bulb on that piece without taking the old thermistor out. I think the reason your motor start working without the bulb is that you had the thermistor bypassed by soldering everything together! And that's why the bulb didn't light up. The whole point of using a bulb is to make sure there is a thermistor there to prevent motor overheat. When the window is fully opened, the bulb should get the load instead of the motor. And that's why the bulb should light up when motor is stalled. In your case there would be no protection of the motor. This is just my guess and I might be totally wrong. Gonna test it out(hopefully this weekend) after begging DH to yank the panel off for me. LOL.
 

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milkysci, I think in my case the thermistor part is good. But the connection between thermistor and metal connectors on both sides were not good. I just heated-up that metal portion again and pressed them both against thermistor. I didn't solder both metal parts together and bypass that connection. Instead I just made them bond again. The resistance on the connector with themistor is 0.8 and the one with no thermistor showing 0.3. So I think the thermistor is working.
 

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Take this for what it's worth, but when I tried using the 194 bulb as a thermistor, it did not allow enough voltage through to fully open the window...and that was with the original thermistor removed completely (hardwired directly to leads on the motor). So I said screw it and just took the bulb out as well. The motors work great now. I'll just be careful not to cycle them repeatedly.
 

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The purpose of a thermister is to protect against overheating, a short and possibly a fire. So by shorting out the thermister you loose all heating protection. If the bulb doesn't light the thermister is shorten and doing nothing. With the bulb across a good thermister just lowers the resistance allowing more current to flow through the motor.
 

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What Happened to the Ifixit page?

Went to the Ifixit link given in this thread, and there's no steps there. Just a needed tools/parts list. :huh: What gives? Anybody have a copy of those steps?
 

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Went to the Ifixit link given in this thread, and there's no steps there. Just a needed tools/parts list. :huh: What gives? Anybody have a copy of those steps?
Click on the link under the heading Files. The procedure is written there.
 

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I was having intermittent issues with my 2001 vent windows not opening/closing. They have worked intermittently since I purchased the van but my wife just did not use them. I checked the voltage to the motors and the motors worked when not connected to the windows so I thought the motors were having issues with the load of the quarter window. I applied the ifixit fix today and now my windows work flawlessly everytime. It took me about 3 hours total to get this done. I didn't remove the air duct on the passenger side but I did however remove the vent and coat hook on that side in order to drop the headliner a bit. I lifted the air duct and pushed it back slightly to gain access to the 3 motor screws. I did not take any pics of the work but if you are even slightly mechanically inclined this is a definite fix to attempt!! Only spent 10 bucks on bulbs, I broke one when I was soldering so I had to buy another pack. This fix saved me about 140 bucks. I was about to order the motors today when I stumbled upon this thread. Thanks to whomever came up with this fix and thanks to combatkarl for finding it and posting it!!
 

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Just did this fix today. It was pretty easy even with my poor soldering ability. $5 for some light bulbs is a great cheap fix!
 

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I fixed my passenger side rear vent window motor yesterday on a 2001 odyssey. Trim came off pretty easy. I think anyone who is "handy" enough should be able to pull off the motor. Thermal resistor was bad just like in the previous posts here. I just soldered the pieces together and tested it out before re-installing. Works great for now. I know I bypassed the overheating feature of the resistor but has anyone really heard of these motors causing any fires? They are insulated well IMO and the only plastic is the rear vent on the passenger side. I'll probably do the driver's side when it finally gives in. It took me about an hour to do the passenger side but I'm positive now that I know the issue I could do the driver's side in 30 minutes. Either soldering or the light bulb fix is way cheaper than letting a dealer steal your money. Good luck.
 
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