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2014 Honda Odyssey Touring Elite, White Diamond Pearl
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello new to the Honda Odyssey family, just got a 2014 Touring Elite with 100 K on it it’s in excellent shape and has been regularly serviced its whole life but I did notice one thing…both of the rear wheels are tilting inwards from the top, the front wheels do not do this. Since I have noticed this I’ve kept my eye out for other odyssey’s and some have the same issue and some do not. Is this normal, what would caused this? Is this something I should be concerned about or get fixed immediately?? Please help
 

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2006 Honda Odyssey (EX)
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It's called camber. The rear camber on these vans is not adjustable. It can be caused by worn out springs.

Get an alignment first and reassess.

The biggest issue is your tire wear.
 

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If the alignment checks okay, and if all the suspension parts are good, you could consider replacing the upper control arms (that determine camber) with aftermarket adjustable ones, such as this one: DRiV Incorporated

Search the forum for members' experiences with them. IIRC some folks reported short service life.
 

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2011 Odyssey LX, 120k miles
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There might be nothing wrong at all. As far as being concerned about something, if your camber is out of spec, the main negative results would be that the car might pull to one side, and that tire wear would accelerate. Slight secondary concern for dynamic handling performance, in case you forget this is a minivan. If you wanted to be like most people (and that probably works just fine in this situation), you'd pay attention to whether the car drives straight with your hands off the wheel on a level road, and whether the rear tire wear is uneven. And if those are good, do nothing and solve other problems instead.

From my 2011, the camber specs are:
front camber 0.0* +/- 0.75*
rear camber -0.5* +/- 0.75*
also, max difference betwen L+R camber is 0.75* for front and for rear.

negative means the top of the wheel is tilted towards the centerline of the car. So from those numbers, the fronts are supposed to be straight up and down, and the rears are supposed to tilt inward slightly. Tolerance of +/- 0.75* is specified. The left-right difference in camber, called cross camber, may cause a pull to one side when driving straight.

Rear camber will be slightly affected by the rear ride height. So if the car is loaded up and sitting a little lower than normal, the geometry of the links will mean that the tops of the wheels will tilt inward. That's generally OK, but some people who always are fully loaded, tow, etc. will take measurese to counter that.

When you go to an alignment shop, they will measure everything and give you a printout of before and after, but the only thing most shops will actually adjust is the front toe-in (whether the front wheels point straight ahead or slightly inward / outward).

Measuring camber yourself is very easy. Just park on flat and level ground (measure that with an accurate level - I use one of the digital levels below sitting on a 6' long carpenter's level), and then you can use a straight edge and digital level (accuracy about 0.1*) to measure the wheels. I have and like both of these items from Klein Tools:



Finally, congrats on being able to see the slight differences. Many people can't. Some can.
 

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If the alignment checks okay, and if all the suspension parts are good, you could consider replacing the upper control arms (that determine camber) with aftermarket adjustable ones, such as this one: DRiV Incorporated

Search the forum for members' experiences with them. IIRC some folks reported short service life.
I have these installed on mine for about 50,000 miles and have done towing. I had one rear wheel way out of spec and the other side was in spec but also wearing on the inside due to excessive camber. Going through 2 sets of tires with the adjustables they wore even. Some have had issues with these adjustable arms wearing out really fast..mine are hanging in there.

I actually think the van drives better, more stable and nimble with the more camber. But after owning lots of BMWs in my youth with crazy camber and shot tires in 10,000 miles from inside wear, Not worth it to me now…
 

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2016 Touring Elite
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I actually think the van drives better, more stable and nimble with the more camber. But after owning lots of BMWs in my youth with crazy camber and shot tires in 10,000 miles from inside wear, Not worth it to me now…
There are pros and cons... I find around -1* is about the max you can go before you get tire wear unless you regularly drive hard in the corners.

Modern Hondas generally have visible rear camber (most of them use similar multi-link rear suspensions) and they also have a fair amount of camber gain with suspension travel. With the strut fronts, they don't have the same characteristic up front (older Hondas with the double-wishbone front ran more camber and had more camber gain with wheel travel).

It'll be interesting to see the settings on our van when we finally get an alignment... It still has cheap tires on it from when we bought it used, so I don't really care about those. When they get replaced, I'll make sure the alignment is good.

-Charlie
 
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I was concerned with obviously visible inner tire wear on the rear tires, and the local tire shop couldn't do anything about it during alignment as the rear control arms were non-adjustable, so I installed a set of adjustable ones maybe 30-40K miles ago and have not had any tire wear or control arm issues yet. And this was after I replaced rear shocks @ around 100K miles.

You can have an alignment done to know how off your rear camber is. Or you can install a set of adjustable camber arms then have the alignment done and know alignment all around is in spec.

But if you're not getting abnormal tire wear then imo I wouldn't worry any more about it.
 

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2006 Honda Odyssey (EX)
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Looking back through alignment records, looks like my rear camber was at -0.8. That was around 2 years ago. I'll probably be getting new tires in the coming months and I'll be getting an alignment at that point, so we'll see where it's at.
 

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There are pros and cons... I find around -1* is about the max you can go before you get tire wear unless you regularly drive hard in the corners.
thats good to know. Last alignment was just under that (with adjustable arms).

I think that bad wheel on the van was at -2.5* before I got adjustable arms. BMWs were about the same
 
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