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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
rebuild rear windshield wiper (with pictures)

This thread was pointed out a while ago, and since I was going to do the job anyway, I thought I'd take some pictures and post them.

Here are directions to rebuild your rear wiper.

it seems to be an increasingly common problem that the rear windshield wiper gets slower and slower and then just stops. if the fuse has not blown, then the problem is likely just that the wiper shaft has seized. You can fix it yourself fairly easily.

tools needed:
- phillips screwdriver
- 23mm socket
- 10mm socket and/ or wrench.
- sandpaper
- grease
- about an hour to an hour and a half of time.

Caution: the wiper assembly goes through the rear windshield. Don't lean on/ hit/ or otherwise annoy the wiper too much while you do this or you risk breaking the windshield. ($$$!)

Step 1: remove inner trim piece on rear hatch

Part 1A) Remove 4 phillips screws - two holding the handle and one on either side of the lock. Actually the two on either side of the lock just need to be loosened, and then pull the plastic anchor out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
1c) remove the largest trim piece (it covers almost all of the liftgate). If you have taken out the 4 screws, then it should just pop off. Careful about the door lock - you'll have to push the trim piece towards the tailgate door hinge to allow the lock to slip through the hole in the trim.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Step 2) Remove windshield wiper arm

2a) lift the cover up to expose the wiper arm retaining nut were it attachs to the shaft. Remove the nut. (10mm).

2b) Remove wiper arm. Two screw drivers (one on either side) worked ok for me as a gear puller to remove it straight up and off the shaft.

Then you can remove the plastic trim piece over the wiper shaft. You should end up with something like this picture (except at this point, I had already removed the nut and metal piece under it - one of the results of focusing on the job and not the picture taking!))

For reference - note that the washer under has an arrow to denote 'top'

IMPORTANT NOTE:
Note carefully a small circlip on the shaft inside the 23mm bolt. You'll have to remove this in step 3b) below.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Step 2c) DECISION TIME

This is the most 'difficult' part of the job. The thin 23mm nut is typically rusted in place.

You have two options
i) soak the nut in penetrating oil and then remove it: or
ii) proceed without removing it. Not removing it is perhaps a little dangerous: you'll have to knock the shaft through the gear housing in place on the window. I used option i) because I wanted to reduce the risk of breaking the window.

With the nut off, you can go back inside the van and remove the three * 10mm screws holding the wiper motor in place.

I hate those electrical connectors - you have to disconnect the wiper from the van wiring. I found this one came apart if you lifted the catch with a screwdriver, and then slid the connector apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Step 3 - fix the seized wiper shaft

3a) With the wiper motor removed from the car, you can now taken the back off (6 phillips screws).

What you'll find is a motor, a worm drive, a 'locomotive' type gear arrangement to turn the motor's rotary motion into a back and forth saw cut. Then there is the shaft that goes through to the wiper.

Its actually kind of interesting form an 'old tech' perspective.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
3b) OK - you can now remove the shaft that has seized.

Ensure you have first removed the circlip on the shaft that I mentioned in step 2b). You can also look in the picture in this post, and there is another picture of it in the next post too.

Then use a punch to knock the shaft through from the outside to the inside of the gearbox/motor assembly. It may be a bit difficult to start movement - remember it was seized! Careful of the threads where the retaining nut went - don't bash them with your hammer and ruin them.

If you were not able to remove the 23mm nut, then you have to do this step with the motor in place on the tailgate. Good luck... you're braver than I. I think it might be able to be done as a 2 person job, with one person supporting the wiper motor assembly inside the van... but you're on your own.

This pic shows the shaft after I used sandpaper to clean it off. The first inch from the left side was slightly corroded. Note that you can also see the groove where the circlip goes by looking near the threads on the left side of the shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That's it. Clean the shaft and bearing surface well. Use lots of grease on both parts.

Reassembly is reverse of removal.

Don't forget the circlip, and don't forget to put the lock through the tailgate trim before trying to snap anything on. Fit the wiper as best you can, and then use the nut to tighten it down so that it fits properly on the teeth.

Here is an extra picture showing the circlip.
 

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Thanks for posting! Especially with pictures, makes a huge difference.
 

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Help, my nuts are stripped.

Thanks for the tutorial, however, it did me no good as when I finally got the 23mm nut to budge it took the aluminum threads with it. So now I am researching parts and found something interesting. The Honda parts catalog for a 2002 Odyssey lists an 18mm nut instead of a 23mm and the 10mm nut is a 6mm. Anyone know what the deal is? I will call the dealership tomorrow. I'm wondering if they are listing the thread size vs the outer diameter of the nut.
 

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rebuilding the rear windshield wiper motor

Thank you for the post - i was able to do what I would normally have to have someone else do- this whole odyclub forum has given me the ability to do many tasks like this myself
 

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Another thanks for this thread. Just saved $300 on my seized wiper. I have 2 comments.

1 - the bigger gear has 2 holes the rack gear/connecting rod can go into. If you get it in the wrong hole the wiper will park on the left side of the car instead of the right. If you lose track of which hole you should use, it will be the loser fit because of the wear on the correct hole. Don't ask me how I know.:mad:

2 - I found almost the hardest part of the job was removing the 6 screws that hold the back cover on. They were really tight. I think it would be a good idea to use a lock or star washer under these screw when you reassembly the cover on the gear case. I was 15 miles from a hardware store with the car in pieces when I came to this conclusion. I still haven't put the big inner trim piece back on so I think I can still do this.

Has this repair held up for everyone?
 

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Successful rebuild!!

Hi,

I did the rebuild as suggested above today. The motor was getting super hot when left on for about 10 mins - but luckily was not burnt out.

Here's my tips:

Spent about an hour almost breaking the window trying to get that big 23mm nut off. Eventually gave up.

Couldn't get that big 23mm nut off. Took off the little c-clip.

Left the motor on, took off the 6 phillips + screws (these were toughies - had to dremel in a slot to one of them) to remove the plate that is the back of the motor.

Then, oh so gently tapped back the shaft (hammer/wood block/shaft).

Lo and behold - out comes my shaft. Cleaned it off. Lube. Reamed the hole gently with some fine grit sandpaper wrapped around the cotter pin for the trailer.

(Frankly - I wouldn't mess with the big nut for more than a minute if I were doing it again...I think the tap back method is probably safer than putting all that torque on the shaft).

Reassembled the motor. Took me about 4 times to get the blade back on where it was perfectly wiping the windscreen, and not down over the license plate.

Many thanks - I am super-pleased with my newly working rear wiper, and the zero dollar fix to get it working again.

This is a terrific group.

Pat Boule
2000 ODY
269km - first tranny. Yay tranny cooler.
 

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An excellent write-up.
Finally got time to finish the rear wiper motor replacement. That 23mm nut is tough, soaked it overnight in liquid wrench and cleaned threads and then put more force on it than I wanted to and it gave. "Cleaned the threads" actually means that I used a file to file the corroded ends off the aluminum bit...

Almost lost the new c-clip on the new motor too. They really spring off if you don't watch them. I was in the house luckily so it showed up.

I agree with pboule, easy to poke the shaft through if you don't need to pull the motor. Leave the 23 mm to corrode in peace. I needed to pull the motor, but was debating just swapping the motor and shaft and leave the housing in place. Luckily the 23 mm nut gave first! Easier and cleaner to put the new motor in.

Got my parts from the US. Honda Canada $220 for rear wiper motor. College Hills Honda US$ 136.74. Dollar is close to par. Added a roller assembly for sliding door to order for US$ 35.74 (Honda Canada $114.74). $US 47 for UPS + $8.62 HST/GST at border and I saved about a $100. ~US$218 vs ~$335 Canadian.

Why are we such pansies that Honda Canada can charge us so much more? Amost double!! It really pisses me off...
 

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almost there!

Thanks for this great write-up. I've been following it closely to fix my 04 ody rear wiper. I tapped out, cleaned, sanded (lightly) and greased the shaft. (btw- I couldn't get the 23mm nut off, so did the tapping (gently!) through the window.)

After re-assembling, it still didn't work.

So I pulled off the motor and found that one of the brushes was half gone (it looks pitted and corroded), and there were dark burn marks along that side of the plastic housing that holds the brushes.

(maybe that was caused by the rear wiper switch being left *on* at the steering wheel while the wiper was broken for a month or two) :(

I bent the metal holding the brush so that it would touch the commutator, and re-assembled the whole thing.

I'm so close!! this is painful. Now the wiper works, but only when I pull the blade up so it's not touching the window. Basically, it's turning so weakly, that when the blade is down, nothing happens.

Should I replace that burned brush? Replace the whole motor? Or maybe I didn't grease the shaft enough?! (though I gotta say I'm not sure how I could have greased it more) :confused:

Thanks for any help.
This is my first post here. Also the first time I trying to do something on my Honda other than the basics. I can't believe I've actually made it this far ... thanks to the posts on here!
 

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still not working

I think I have the same problem, I cleaned and greased the shaft, that works fine as long as the wiper is off the window. Better than when it was frozen. When the wiper is against the window, I can hear a skipping sound, it's not from the wiper arm 10mm screw. I sounds likes it coming from the plastic gear inside the wiper housing. Any clues?

Andy
 

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Andy,

I found that after I took apart the wiper works inside the housing, the large gear usually didn't fit neatly with the arm from the motor. A couple times I had to go turn on the van and turn on the wiper (to get the wiper motor would run for a second), so that I could try to fit the gear teeth against the arm. I haven't spent any time with this stuff outside of the half-dozen times I took apart the motor for this job, but I'd suggest maybe looking closely at the gear-teeth fits to make sure they're good. Maybe that would causing the skipping sound?

My sound was just the motor clicking on and off. Ultimately I took the van to my mechanic; he looked at it and said the motor needed to be replaced. I think it was just weakened from us having unknowingly kept the wiper "on" when it wasn't working, stressing the motor.

I looked online at replacement motors because I had a prideful interest in finishing the job myself, but my mechanic could get a better price, so went through him.

It's not quite the happy ending I wanted, but it works now.

Good luck-

Andy
 

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I recently did this rear wiper fix. Here's my experience:
- the 23mm nut was really, really tight. I never could get it off with a ratchet and had to borrow an impact wrench. I could understand how the threads could get wrecked (especially if you weren't using an impact). If you can't get the nut off, just show up at your neighborhood garage with a donut! It will take 20 seconds for them to take that nut loose. Then you can go home and do the rest.
- on mine, the shaft was SERIOUSLY bound up tight. Even with the motor assembly off the car and situated across a vise (to let the shaft drop through), I had to pound the shaft with a punch and a big hammer for the entire length of the shaft exiting the motor housing. Really hard. I wouldn't recommend anyone doing this with the motor still in the window. (See first bullet above).
- pay close attention to the earlier advise about not wrecking the threads on the end of the shaft as you hammer the shaft out of the housing! It's a real bummer when you get it back on the window and you can't get the 10mm wiper arm nut on.

Thanks a lot to earlier posters! Your experience and sharing saved me $$$$'s!:)

--VARam1500...
 

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I Did It TOO!

:cool:Thank You all who have posted - all your questions/answers and failed attempts helped me tremendously!! I finally fied my rear wiper motor.
Have an '02 Odyssey, the rear wiper hadn't worked for over 2 years. I live in upstate NY, any really only use the wiper in fall/winter (which is usually 7 m onths of year).
I followd the write-up. The 23mm nut was rusted on, wouldn't budge. I read that someone soaked it overnight in WD40, so I opened the hatch so taht the nut was level, and I spraued WD40 so that it fromed a pool and let it soak about 18 hrs. I also went out and bought a 23mm socket, extended depth. Then after some grunting, was able to get off the nut.
I took out the assembly and actually had to take to a shop to realease the shaft - with a PRESS! Yes, it was taht corroded!. I re-assembled with bunch o grease , and also noticed brushes worn, but I will look at replacing them the next time it quits.
I would NEVER considered tapping oput the shaft while still on window. My opinion.

Thanks again to ALL. GoD Bless you!!
Pete42964
 
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