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I am looking at putting rotors and pad on the front of my 2005 Odyssey EX. I am looking at Wagner Thermo Quiet Ceramic pads, but I am not sure on which rotor to purchase. Advance Auto has some Beck/Arnley rotors for 66.99 a piece. They also have the wearever rotors for 50.99 each. Anybody ever used either of these or any other options would be greatly appreciated. :D
 

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I just put on the wearever's about a month ago seems to work fine now strong pedal feel, but I also changed calipers too
 

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Hello,

Beck/Arnley is original equipment product in a different box. Literally. B/A contracts with the original vendor for the manufacturer to build OE spec parts private label. Does that make sense? Some B/A Honda parts come in that pinkish bubble wrap packaging. I did a quick search on eBay and came up with this. I use B/A on my personal cars if it's available, never had an issue.

Pads

BECK ARNLEY 089-1735 Brake Pad or Shoe, Front | eBay

Rotors

BECK ARNLEY 083-3003 Front Brake Rotor/Disc | eBay
 

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Rock Auto has the BA 083-3003 rotor for $45.00. There was one Ebay seller who has is for $47 (includes shipping). That's a heck of a deal.
 

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Use Cryo-Centric roters... thay are hardened +/- 300F and will NEVER warp as these vans are hard on front brakes...

Get them from Tire Rack.. Pricey ~100 each, but last long will and of course as stated will not give you that preverbial warped rotor after just installing as other cheap versions do...
 

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I go with a lower cost rotor and higher end pads with all my DIY brake jobs. An expensive rotor can warp just as fast as a white box, Chinese import rotor (which most of them are).

Joel
 

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I would go with EBC rotors! They are great have them in my TSX (really bad warp/vibration issues) w/OEM pads almost 10K on them and no signs of vibrations, so impress I bought some for the ODY, just haven't had time to install them!! $230 OTD (F$131+R$140, not including coupon code) free shipping! Brake Pads, Brake Rotors - Best Deals on EBC, Brembo Kits and more | Place for Brakes, I live in SoCal and I got them the next day, bc they are located about 50 miles away. Great place to buy rotors!!
 

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I vote EBC also. I've got the slotted and dimpled rotors w/ the green pads, and wow what a difference. We're gonna go with braided lines after the holidays wich should firm up the pedal too. I can't stress enough a propper bed in process regardless of what brand but even more w/ the EBC's.
 

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As long as the vehicle's primary driver doesn't drive like a maniac, I'd go with OE (or B/A, as the case may be) rotors and make sure the lugs are torqued to spec when you're done - in my experience, torqueing lug nuts properly is very helpful in cutting down on warped rotors. It's still less important than driving "style," so keep that in mind as well.

Nate
 

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FWIW, I have the same brake philosophy at MTPockets. Best pads available and the least expensive rotors. There is no question that brake lining compounds vary in their mechanical effectiveness. This is why you see three or four grade options for most applications. Rotors on the other hand (unless we are talking abut drilled or slotted varriants) have limited abilities to be differintiated between them.

If you find a pad/rotor combination that you have confidence and good service in by all means stay your course. For me that course is Wagner Thermo Quiet pads and least expensive rotor that Advanced Auto or Orielly's offers with a lifetime warranty. I've gone this route on my last four brake jobs. And have only had one failed rotor right out of the box on the Ody no less. While an inconvenince to exchange it out with AAP, it cost me nothing but my extra time.

I was driving our '97 Maxima the other night and forgot how vasta an improvement this pad/rotor combo was over my previous setup. I almost had to remove my eye teeth from the steering wheel the first time had to get on the binders. The down side is that when you realize how effective this brake setup is you can "over drive" the vehicle.

Nate's comment about proper lug nut torque is an excellent one as well. I found this one out the hard way over the course of time. Learn from other's mistakes, more than likely you will have plenty of opportunites to share your own with someone else. At least I find myself in this postion more times than not.
 

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FWIW, I have the same brake philosophy at MTPockets. Best pads available and the least expensive rotors. There is no question that brake lining compounds vary in their mechanical effectiveness. This is why you see three or four grade options for most applications.
Usually the options are street vs. racing, so I disagree with you. Street pads are fine for street cars.

The other set of options you have on pads are organic, semi metalic, ceramic, etc and again for a street car, this isn't really a 'choice' per say. You should install the same material as the OEM as that is the material the car was designed to use.

Rotors on the other hand (unless we are talking abut drilled or slotted varriants) have limited abilities to be differintiated between them.
Rotors on the other hand can be made from hugely differing qualities of metal. Not all 'steel' is the same.

Rotors also have to be precisely machined to work correctly which takes expensive equipment to stay in tolerance.

The other issue you have with rotors is the initial thickness (there is always a range) in my experience, if you measure the thickness of some cheap ebay rotors, they barley meet the min spec from the OEM while some of the better quality rotors have more thickness to them (still within spec) More metal mass = better heat handling, it is physics, you can't change or deny it. :)


Bottom line, is both pads and rotors are equally important. However, the pad choice is usually easier to make

street car = street pad
ceramic OEM = buy replacement ceramic

Follow the above advice and you can't go wrong.

That said, there are lots of rotors and pads on the market that work very well. Stick to bigger names and buy quality parts at a good price instead of just buying based on price alone.

The duralast from autozone usually get good reviews here, rotors have a 2 year full replacement warranty. I know of no one else that does that.
 

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Usually the options are street vs. racing, so I disagree with you. Street pads are fine for street cars..
Are there Odysseys here that aren't "street cars"? :huh:
 

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Rotor just another rotor?

I know many think a rotor is just another rotor," Hey its just a piece of steel" right?.

While correct that many spend way to much for hype products.. specificly in the "race" group.. there are many reasons to get a "better" rotor.

As stated above.. I like the Cryo-frozen rotors...

1. All to often in past I have done brake jobs for friends and family.. who come to me with vibration while braking issue.. they say" hey I just had my brakes done" how could that be... well its cause they went with the lowest price point. and that garage gets the cheapest avail. to max profit.

They get the brake job done, just to find run-out and warpage within 10k miles or less.

I tell them if they used good qualility rotors it would not have returned or developed the wobble. The grade of steel IS important as these linings heat up and cool over and over again...and if the steel has imperfections those flaws will present as a warped disc.

Cryo- Hardened rotors are the toughest possible..and all jobs I have used with, NEVER developed brake shutter after the job was complete.

2. I have done too many brake jobs where the previous job used the lowest grade possible and at disassembly find the rotor rusted through and through.

If you not concerned about hardness (#1), at least get a rotor that is plated or at minimum ceramic painted. if you do not,they will rust. Now all rotors have fine layers of rust on the braking surface, that is bare metal... no choice, but to have the inner viens rusted and corroded to the point where the two outer liners are about to crumble, is downright dangerous ( I have seen this at least a dozen times). Rusting so bad sometimes, that the air cannot pass through the center viens effectively and cool the rotor, compounding the heat.

I Know everyone has there own opinion about what they use.. I resect that.

Theses are just my observations. From years of brake jobs.

My prospect is also from a "DO NOT SPARE EXPENSE".
 
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