I did my first oil change today. I strongly prefer to have the wheels on something solid instead of using jack stands. With my floor jack under the front center jack point, I was able to get only two 2x8 lumber scraps under each front wheel. I got it done, but it would be much easier with about six inches under each wheel. Can anyone recommend some ramps with a shallow enough incline to avoid contact with the front bumper on the way up and down?
slowmachine
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Did you go over the prior ramps recommendation threads? There was one where someone built one out of 2x8s.
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This post is worthless without pix .....Idk if I posted about it but I built ramps out of 2x10s. I followed this as a general template:
Do-It-Yourself wooden car ramps | AZoffroading.com
Do-It-Yourself wooden car ramps. How to make your own DIY wooden vehicle ramps. Instructions on building your own wooden ramps for a car, truck or Jeep.azoffroading.com
I also added wood glue in between each board as well to help adhere things but they are pretty fantastic. They are heavy, of course, but I've had my 6700lb curb weight Silverado 2500 on them and they didn't even think about blinking.
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My personal opinion on ramps?? Well. I do not use them and do not plan to. While Oil Changes can be great with the ramps as the drain bolt is at the end of the oil pan which helps drain more oil out while on ramps (or jack stands), the transmission fluid D&Fs would be problematic.
Since I own a 3rd gen, I do ATF D&Fs every other oil change. So. I raise the front, open both drain bolts (oil and ATF) and let things drain (after warming up the fluids of course). I then button up the oil drain bolt and remove the jack stands and lower the ody completely. That still enables more ATF to come out. Then, I raise it back on the jack, quickly remove the drain pan, screw on the ATF drain bolt and lower it back on the wheels. I tighten the ATF bolt that way as I want to avoid putting the Ody back on the stands. I have gotten used to working on it this way and I am fairly change resistant.
Since I own a 3rd gen, I do ATF D&Fs every other oil change. So. I raise the front, open both drain bolts (oil and ATF) and let things drain (after warming up the fluids of course). I then button up the oil drain bolt and remove the jack stands and lower the ody completely. That still enables more ATF to come out. Then, I raise it back on the jack, quickly remove the drain pan, screw on the ATF drain bolt and lower it back on the wheels. I tighten the ATF bolt that way as I want to avoid putting the Ody back on the stands. I have gotten used to working on it this way and I am fairly change resistant.
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Need your pix when ever you get a chance.There's pics on that site! I can take some tonight when I get home.
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Except, that was a spammer using a VPN server and randomly bumped the thread.I used to as a high school kid, use tree logs under the frame. Of course they was always a minimum of 12" diameter, height was always slightly different. It was nice to have the cars up 2' higher rather than 17-19".
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