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Discussion Starter #1
My 2000 LX is now at about 185000 miles. It's on it's 3rd transmission (a Jasper at 160k in 6/2010, with a 3yr/100k warranty). Anyway...

I've been told I need to get the following done, so I'm hoping for insight as to which are critical, and whether the prices seem reasonable.

Replace outer tie-rod end boots, for $160. Just the boots, no mention of anything else. From reading here about tie-rod ends, i suspect this needs to be addressed quickly, though I searched and found nothing regarding 'boot' replacement specifically.
Front stabilizer bar link, for $140.
Front lower control arm bushing $360. Since it's apart, should I have them replace the rear bushing as well?
And the requisite alignment for another $70.

One thought is that some of the labor costs should drop out because of related jobs, but is that accurate?

Any help/thoughts are appreciated. These prices are from Hendrick Honda in Charlotte, if it makes much difference.

Thanks in advance,
Dave
 

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Take it to your trusted mechanic. All of these jobs are routine and there is nothing that requires specific Honda knowledge. A good mechanic will charge you almost half of what the dealer is asking. Besides, you will also get the 2nd opinion as to which parts are really needed and which are not. If you do not know such a mechanic, ask around in your neighborhood or office.

Who did the 2nd transmission? How long that lasted?
 

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Thanks, I was thinking the same thing about getting the 2nd opinion. On the other hand, the good local mechanic is not any cheaper (or very minimally so) than the dealer, so it might still be something I do at the dealer. Some of it just doesn't seem like it should be that difficult (tierod end boots and stabilizer bar links), so I'm tempted to try myself. But my tool supply is only fair and I'd need to get the Helms manual as well. So, we'll see...

As far as the 2nd tranny, that was done gratis by the dealer (was ~500 miles past the 109k threshold). It probably helped that I had just bought an 06 Accord there a few months earlier.

Dave
 

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soxfan62,

Just wondering what symptoms your Odyssey has for these parts to need to be replaced (noise, vibration in the front end?) Do you know how the mechanic diagnosed the control arm bushings as being bad? I've never looked at those and I need to replace a CV axle soon so I'm thinking I should have a look at the CA bushings while I'm in there.
 

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One thing I have noticed is steering wheel vibration. Going at slow speeds, the wheel seems to jiggle back and forth a bit. It also seems to lean into corners, which causes me to slow down more going into a turn than I otherwise would. I'm guessing these symptoms are probably tied to these issues.
 

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Regarding the control arm bushings, I would guess it is the rear bushing on the lower front control arm. I recently replaced those on my '99:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/24-19...-pressing-out-lower-control-arm-bushings.html

When the wheel is removed, the bushing is clearly visible, and probably has many cracks in the rubber. That's how mine looked when I first noticed it at around 60k miles. Finally at 198k miles, I noticed some looseness in the handling at freeway speeds. Figured it could be replaced, so I did it. The front bushings in those control arms were fine. Easy to replace those once the control arm is out, but they did not need it.

$360 sounds high for one side; fair for both sides. The part costs around $20 for each side. My guess is that the diagnosis is based on seeing the cracks, but from my experience, the surface cracks can exist for a long time 60k-198k miles before the bushing stiffness is really compromised.

Regarding the tie rod boots, if they're cracked, but the joints themselves are still fine, a stop-gap would be to pump in new grease and keep an eye on them. If you keep them lubed, you may be able to wait that one out.

Regarding the alignment, if you do it yourself and are careful about pre- and post-measurements, you may be able to avoid that cost.

Regarding overlap between jobs, surprisingly I don't think there is much. Specifically with the control arm bushing, you remove the attachments at the ball joint (potentially the toughest part of the whole job if you don't have the right tool) and at the front and rear bushings. That's it. Nothing to do with the other suspension components.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah, I spoke with a friend who does a lot of Honda maintenance and he pretty much said you need the Honda tool for the ball-joint; that the one from Auto Zone was too big. He thought the tierod end boots and links jobs were fairly easy. In any event, I'm getting a 2nd opinion at a place he recommended, so we'll see what comes of it. And, I did finally order the Helms manual, so hopefully that'll be here soon.

Dave
 
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