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Replaced brakepads and rotors multiple times with different brands, car still shakes 2-3 months later.

2266 Views 53 Replies 22 Participants Last post by  adr5
2016 Odyssey having brake shaking problems 2-3 months after brake pad and rotor changes.

Wheel bearing just replaced with most recent brake pad and rotor change.

1st change: Powerstop brake pads and rotors.

2nd change: Raybestos ceramic brake pads and rotors.

3rd change: Carquest gold brake pads and rotors x2.
(had warranty on the carquest rotors and brake pads so when I changed again I also replaced the wheel bearings.)

I have been reading around different websites and most of them suggest buying performance brands.

I'm just not sure which brand is best at this point. Any help and info would be appreciated!
  1. Raybestos R-300/Raybestos specialty truck
  2. Powerstop Z26 street warrior
  3. R1 concepts e-line series
These are the current ones I am thinking about buying.
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Rather than going back to same parts over and over, I would suspect different parts; calipers specifically.
Did you (or the mechanic) lube to caliper pins properly?
Are you sure the brake pads spread when you release the pedal? The pads might stick to the rotor for whatever reason it maybe. (Spread pins not doing its job, caliper pins not being lubed etc etc)

Both power stop and Raybestos, in my personal experience, aren't so garbage so that they would wear out within 3 months. I know they aren't top of the list like Akebono or Brembo, but they aren't garbages.
I really think there are other issues with your brake system; start with calipers.
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Bought a 2011 with 201k miles. I'm living with a little highway rotor pulsing. Old car, live with issues.

Of course, I owned GM cars in the 80s and 90s and every damn one of them got warped rotors.
Interesting post....I have the same issue- every 20k miles the vibration comes back. Like the OP, I have tried numerous different brands....with the same results (eventually). Slider pins lubed every time, calipers move freely.
Did you check the lateral rotor runout?
See this post. Front brake rotor warpage
Do you burnish you braked pads to the new rotors after install?

Braking style can affect performance....short pulsing of the brakes as opposed to one looong push on the pedal can make a difference.
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So its vibrating with current rotors? How did the previous rotors and pads perform?
Driving style, quite possibly.
I used to have more brake judder then I changed my braking habits at stop signs stoplights etc. I used to come to a stop, then press the pedal firmer (thought in the back of my mind was if I got rear-ended it I would not have as high a chance of getting shoved into the car in front of me). I have stopped doing that, and usually stop, then creep forward a bit, then only hold the pedal enough to keep it stopped. No longer have gotten judder on my other vehicles.
We've only had our 15 Odyssey since last fall but so far no judder on it either.
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Do you burnish you braked pads to the new rotors after install?
Yes this.

Follow the brake parts manufacturer's burnishing procedure. It's also called bedding in the pads.

I do this on every vehicle we own. None of them shudder upon braking.

Pads on our vehicles are all OEM Honda & Acura, but if you do like @2011.2017.odyssey says and fit a set of semi-metallic pads, you'll likely never have problems with uneven adherent pad material on the rotors.

OF
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2016 Odyssey having brake shaking problems 2-3 months after brake pad and rotor changes.

Wheel bearing just replaced with most recent brake pad and rotor change.

1st change: Powerstop brake pads and rotors.

2nd change: Raybestos ceramic brake pads and rotors.

3rd change: Carquest gold brake pads and rotors x2.
(had warranty on the carquest rotors and brake pads so when I changed again I also replaced the wheel bearings.)

I have been reading around different websites and most of them suggest buying performance brands.

I'm just not sure which brand is best at this point. Any help and info would be appreciated!
  1. Raybestos R-300/Raybestos specialty truck
  2. Powerstop Z26 street warrior
  3. R1 concepts e-line series
These are the current ones I am thinking about buying.
Sadly the rotors are just undersized.....
Rotor and pad heat up then pad leaves deposits on the hot rotor.

Perhaps try a good cross drilled set.
That should keep the heat down.

Or even a semi metallic pad that will scrap the rotor clean after deposits form.
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Agreed, I'd like to see a bigger rotor with more mass (and ergo, more thermal capacity). However, we've got what we've got and have to make it work.

Years ago I read a tech paper provided by one of our Odyclubbers authored by Wilwood Brakes, and they did not recommend a cross-drilled rotor for our application. Drilling removes rotor mass, and Honda does not have a thicker rotor spec'd for the Odyssey or a caliper to go with it and recover that mass after drilling.

Semi-metallic pads are proven to remove adherent brake material from a rotor surface. You'll get accelerated rotor and pad wear using these, but they work well.

Or, you can do like @Buddur and I do, and bed in the pads to put a uniform adherent layer of pad material onto the rotor face. Results? You get all three: good pad bite, good wear characteristics, shudder-free operation.

OF
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Semi-metallic pads are proven to remove adherent brake material from a rotor surface. You'll get accelerated rotor and pad wear using these, but they work well.
and waaayyy better braking performance...

still happy with my pad swap.
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I’m having the same issue with my ‘12 Odyssey, after 4K miles. I would prefer to switch back to semi metallic pads to prevent this but there aren’t many options for them. Rock Auto has Centric ones, and the local parts store private label ones.

However, I saw that Raybestos has a hybrid pad, combining ceramic and semi metallic into one. Does anyone have any experience with them? (More Information for RAYBESTOS EHT1521H)
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Bought a 2011 with 201k miles. I'm living with a little highway rotor pulsing. Old car, live with issues.

Of course, I owned GM cars in the 80s and 90s and every damn one of them got warped rotors.
Even when new they do that. Mine starting doing at at about 21k miles.
Current using powerstop drilled and slotted rotors with pads, still going strong. Already have 100k+ km on them. Pay more, less problem in future.
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and waaayyy better braking performance...

still happy with my pad swap.
What brand of pad do you use? I just bought new Raybestos coated rotors to put on all 4 corners, just haven’t settled on what brand of pad to use.
For some strange reason, it took a lot more effort to bedd the brakes on the Odyssey, and I had to do it multiple times. Before you shoot the parts cannon again try this.
Carefully, very carefully, spray down the caliper,pads,and rotors with brake cleaner. Then go bedd them, hard, like emergency hard braking. I found that 50mph down to 5mph, three to four times eliminated it. Do it when the roads are empty so after the 4th time you can drive a few miles without ever touching the brake pedal. This will cool them down quickly without you having to sit around waiting. I did that a few times over the course of a month, and they're still good over a year later and counting. And this is all on Autozone's cheapest brake pads and rotors.
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@Mxracer , I had to find a local hill with a long, long, downgrade. This enabled me to speed up faster and use a speed less than 60mph (like 50mph) and do it repeatedly. Also did it at night, late night to avoid traffic. The only problem I had was damned whitetail deer everywhere.

It's harder to do this, for me at least, because I felt like I would be abusing the brittle Gen 2 transmissions on our 2002 and 2003 EX Odys every time I floored it to get up to speed for another braking event while bedding pads, and do this ten times.

Autozone Duralast rotors are fine. Nobody has the market on making "better cast iron" than the other guys. Autozone pads are fine, too, especially their Duralast Gold premium line.

OF
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