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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all:

I've searched a bit in the forums, and found plenty of good info about ignition switches, main and fuel pump relays and immobilizers, but nothing that really solves my problem:

I just replaced my ignition switch due to the usual symptons (van quitting randomly on the highway and in traffic, etc). It went fine, but not the van will not start--it will turn over quite well, but simply won't start.

While I was pulling out the old switch, I discovered that for some reason, someone had spliced something into the wires. I did research, and could only determine that this was some sort of aftermarket device (alarm? for the key fobs?) I don't know what it was, if so, because we don't even use our key fobs anymore--just the old fashioned way. So, I figured there'd be no harm in not splicing whatever this is into the new wiring, since I likely didn't need whatever it was and didn't want to mess with cutting up my new wires.

Was that a mistake? Could that be why it won't start now? Or did I mess up something on the fuse box when I was messing around with it. Or do I need to do something with my key?

Any help is appreciated.
 

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This might be a stupid question, but did you get new keys with the new ignition switch? Or did you somehow rekey the new ignition switch?

In either case, the ignition switch is tied electronically to the PCM/ECU of the vehicle as part of the immobilizer anti-theft system. You cannot simply replace the ignition switch without reprogramming the PCM/ECU to recognize the new switch. In fact, this is such a secured procedure that even with the Honda HDS tool, the tech needs to input your VIN into the Honda IN Network to get a one-day code to enter into the HDS tool before you can initiate the reprogramming process.

So bottom line is... if all you did was a mechanical swap out, there is a whole other electronic programming part that needs to be done. Unless you have access to HDS and the Honda IN network, I'm afraid you have to fork out the bucks to a dealer to do it for you.

Hope this helps...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This doesn't sound like a stupid question at all--I did not get new keys. Does it matter that all I swapped was the electrical part of the switch? It seems odd that that autozone would sell the part if I had to work with the dealer to get the keys to work.
 

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You didn't change the "keyed" part of the switch so no you do not need new keys....however I believe that you are dealing with what megatron suggests. Let me check the Helm manual.....hang on.......doesn't say anything about reprogramming anything except the power windows???? Huh? Don't fret that one.....I did some checking on the immobilizer and you could check a couple of fuses>

blown No. 1 (15A) fuse in the driver’s underdash
fuse/relay box.
a blown No. 46 (15A) fuse in the under-hood
fuse/relay box.

Other than that I don't know what to say. It could be two problems.....one the ignition switch and the other the relay???
 

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Discussion Starter #6
have checked the fuses, but they are in good shape. Is it worth just replacing the relay? I am definitely getting the flashing green light on the dash, but it just seems odd that I could buy and change the electric part of the ignition switch myself but have to tow it to the dealer to re-flash the keys. I found and tried a brake code on the webs, but it didn't work.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
or is it worth trying to splice in the aftermarket part that was spliced on the ignition switch I replaced? I'm cautious about cutting up my new switch, but I also wonder if ignoring that doesn't have something to do with all of this.
 

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I'm assuming that you are not aware of any previous remote starter unit on this van. I don't know what to say about the extra wire. Any way to trace where it goes? What's at the other end?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I certainly don't/didn't know about a remote starter unit prior to this repair; when we bought the van, it had what I'm willing to bet was an aftermarket alarm/key switch, but the fob broke and we simply never worried about it (and that was a long time ago). (I say aftermarket because the fob was unmarked and looked rather generic). So, I'm guessing that this is not a remote starter, but is part of the after market key switch.

There were two wires spliced into the ignition switch wires (the black/yellow and the white), and they led to a control-panel/relay looking device that had been zipped onto a bundle of wires under the dash. there were three or so wires that then led from this device into the wiring bundles themselves, towards the main fuse box. In case, a factory connecter harness had been separated and bypassed with a custom connector. So, I'm fairly certain that it's aftermarket (or at least after factory) and I was assuming that it was something we didn't need. But maybe I was wrong?
 

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The solution is obvious. Either wire the new switch exactly as the old one or take it to a good mechanic who can trace out the wiring and remove all the third party attachment. You traced the wires to a relay. from there you have to trace all the wires out of the relay along with comparing everything with the factory wiring charts.
 

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have checked the fuses, but they are in good shape. Is it worth just replacing the relay? I am definitely getting the flashing green light on the dash, but it just seems odd that I could buy and change the electric part of the ignition switch myself but have to tow it to the dealer to re-flash the keys. I found and tried a brake code on the webs, but it didn't work.
The flashing green key on the dash 100% validates my earlier post that this is an immobilizer/ignition switch reprogramming issue. This is NOT a fuse/relay or 3rd party device install issue (since you left all that stuff out). From everything I've read so far from you, this is totally an electronic programming issue and the van is acting as designed to prevent theft. Think about it... this is the whole point of the immobilizer system. It prevents thieves from just swapping a part to one they brought with them (which they would have the proper access to) and starting your car.

I'm afraid you really need to take it to the dealer or some other mechanic with the proper electronic tools to reprogram your PCM/ECU. If you were in Seattle, I can do it for you, but you are not. I am very familiar with the process.... there is an option in the Honda HDS system to reprogram PCM/ECU after ignition switch replacement!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
This was exactly the problem--and thanks for your help. I had to go in person to the dealer and get the brake code, which started the van right away. Dealer re-flashed the keys in about an hour. Apparently, this is my fault somehow. I don't remember how exactly the service tech worded it, but it started with "you're gonna kick yourself in the ass when I tell you what happened..." Somehow, I knocked something loose on the immobilizer unit when I changed the switch, and that's what caused it to reset. So, if done properly, just changing the switch shouldn't cause the immobilizer to reset, but it is apparently possible to accidentally reset it manually.
Anyway, thanks for the help! Now that I got the van back from the dealer, the instrument panel lights are out as are the tail lights--so, I'm off to check fuses.
 

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Glad you got it all working. Hope the dealer didn't rape you too badly! I would take it back to them for the instrument panel and tail lights because obviously it was caused by them!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
how much did it cost you at the dealer ? im having the same problem
Well, it was a couple of years ago, so I don't really remember. But I would take that to mean that it didn't cost very much. I'll poke around see if I can find a receipt.
 
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