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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I will be leaving the headunit, but am curious if swapping out the factory speakers is straightforward (once the trim is off).

I assume nothing needs done behind the headunit, but I have no idea how these infotainment units are wired up.

Anyone done this yet?

Front doors and pillars: Link

Back doors: Link

Subwoofer: Link
 

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Please research my posts concerning speakers. Once you have read my posts concerning this subject there should only be a couple questions remaining. I can help with those.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Please research my posts concerning speakers. Once you have read my posts concerning this subject there should only be a couple questions remaining. I can help with those.
I think I found the post to which you are referring. That Pioneer sub is hard to come by but I found one.

My main worry is that I will run into issues with my Honda warranty if they realize the speakers have been replaced. However, if it is as simple as pull out the old speakers, disconnect, connect new speakers, attach new speakers...then maybe they wouldn't even notice.
 

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You need to ensure that the speakers are the same ohm value and not grossly oversized on current requirements.

The warranty for your speakers will go away once you throw the originals in the garbage. But that’s what they are anyways. It’s absolutely shameful that Honda puts speakers that are such junk in there anyways. You will see what I’m talking about once you remove them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You need to ensure that the speakers are the same ohm value and not grossly oversized on current requirements.

The warranty for your speakers will go away once you throw the originals in the garbage. But that’s what they are anyways. It’s absolutely shameful that Honda puts speakers that are such junk in there anyways. You will see what I’m talking about once you remove them.
Will the center grill in the dash be empty then since my 2020 is an EX?
 

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Yeah. I saw that...yet Crutchfield says they will work. Such an inexact science.
I agree. I have a question for you. I suspect that there are separate wires for the door speaker and the pillar speaker coming from the factory head unit. The crossover that comes with the kit allows for one input and then branches out with two outputs. Which input will you use? If it is wired as I mentioned, I would suggest using the door speaker wire as the input into the crossover.
 

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I used a metra harnes adaptor to preserve the OEM plug end but it’s not necessary if you can solder or crimp spades on the ends of the OEM wires yourself.

The OEM wires for the front tweeter and door speakers are directly connected to their own individual pins in the plug of the amplifier in the rear passenger quarter panel behind and below the emergency fuel funnel pocket. The tweeter itself has its own capacitor to filter out the low frequencies. Your crossover will have to be manually installed behind the front door panels onto the metal inner door panel. I installed mine over the service cover of the inner metal panel and used the door speaker wires to supply signals. You will have to route wires back out through the corrugated wire loom tube into the dash area to supply custom tweeters managed by its own crossover. Do not connect custom speakers outside their own crossover signal management. They are calibrated for the signals it supplies them.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I agree. I have a question for you. I suspect that there are separate wires for the door speaker and the pillar speaker coming from the factory head unit. The crossover that comes with the kit allows for one input and then branches out with two outputs. Which input will you use? If it is wired as I mentioned, I would suggest using the door speaker wire as the input into the crossover.
I am going to have a local pro car audio shop do the installation...the expectation is that they will do what is best...but even this route has its possible pitfalls.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I used a metra harnes adaptor to preserve the OEM plug end but it’s not necessary if you can solder or crimp spades on the ends of the OEM wires yourself.

The OEM wires for the front tweeter and door speakers are directly connected to their own individual pins in the plug of the amplifier in the rear passenger quarter panel behind and below the emergency fuel funnel pocket. The tweeter itself has its own capacitor to filter out the low frequencies. Your crossover will have to be manually installed behind the front door panels onto the metal inner door panel. I installed mine over the service cover of the inner metal panel and used the door speaker wires to supply signals. You will have to route wires back out through the corrugated wire loom tube into the dash area to supply custom tweeters managed by its own crossover. Do not connect custom speakers outside their own crossover signal management. They are calibrated for the signals it supplies them.
I appreciate the info...I didn't realize the Ex trim level came with an external amplifier...this tells me I have some more research to do. :)
 

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i did full front speaker replacement, sub improvements and sound deadening, nothing hard there and can be done in an hour or two, I'm not done yet but already hear huge improvement even with stock amp and sub
 

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my advice don't get component mid bass speakers, first my set was focal components mid bass, didn't like them at all, too much bass, replaced with skar audio mid range and kept oem tweeters, much better result, louder and cleaner than stock and focals.
sub is stock, all my replacements didn't fit so I just applied sound dampener to make the box heavier and filled with polyfil, again day and night difference, also sound deadened doors, rear door, rear quarter panels and not done yet :) ask me if you have any questions https://www.instagram.com/esenbek_aliev/
 

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Discussion Starter #17
my advice don't get component mid bass speakers, first my set was focal components mid bass, didn't like them at all, too much bass, replaced with skar audio mid range and kept oem tweeters, much better result, louder and cleaner than stock and focals.
sub is stock, all my replacements didn't fit so I just applied sound dampener to make the box heavier and filled with polyfil, again day and night difference, also sound deadened doors, rear door, rear quarter panels and not done yet :) ask me if you have any questions Login • Instagram
Impressive!

What are your thoughts on the setup I am considering (linked in first post)? Another poster that swapped out his factory speakers mentioned these foam sound dampeners...worth trying? My only worry is the window not being able to function if those foam dampeners are used...but I haven't seen behind the door panel yet.

EDIT: I am hoping the speakers I am eyeing swap in with little modification needed. Another poster reported using the Pioneer sub I have linked above with no issues but you mentioned not being able to find one that worked.
 

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I have a 2020 Odyssey EX-L and replaced the woofers and tweeters speakers with Infinity REF-6532ex in the rear and REF-6530cx in the front. The Metra 72-7800 wire harnesses worked perfectly @highvoltage. The wires in to the front door were the same as the tweeter wires in the pillars - they're full range signal and the factory tweeter has a capacity to block the lower frequencies. My installer took the wire to the door, fed it into the Infinity crossover, and ran a new wire up to the pillar from the crossover. It was a lot more work than what Crutchfield recommended, which was to just ditch the crossover, wire the woofer directly to the existing wires, and put a 5000hz bass blocker in line with the tweeter: Crutchfield Bass Blockers Pair of inline high-pass filters (5000 Hz cut-off) for tweeters at Crutchfield.

Warning: the new speakers sound great and have plenty of volume with the factory amp, but they're really weak on frequencies below ~500hz, even when cranking up the bass in the equalizer. I'm having a Kicker Key 200.4 auto DSP amp installed later this week to hopefully resolve the lack of mid-bass. The factory sub isn't great but it is only getting frequencies below 60 or 80hz anyway, so adding a better sub isn't the solution. I also tried disconnecting the active noise cancellation module (easily accessible behind the glove box), but it didn't help at all with the bass (nor did it make the ride noticeably louder in my limited testing).
 

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my advice don't get component mid bass speakers, first my set was focal components mid bass, didn't like them at all, too much bass, replaced with skar audio mid range and kept oem tweeters, much better result, louder and cleaner than stock and focals.
sub is stock, all my replacements didn't fit so I just applied sound dampener to make the box heavier and filled with polyfil, again day and night difference, also sound deadened doors, rear door, rear quarter panels and not done yet :) ask me if you have any questions Login • Instagram
  1. Focal component mid bass? Is that 3 speakers - component plus mid bass plus mid range? Which model did you try?
  2. The tweeters on the infinity REF-6530cx are a huge upgrade over the stock tweeters... strongly recommend swapping out the tweeters too.
  3. I see you put sound deadening all over the inside of the door skin by removing the plastic inserts glued to the door frame (or whatever the middle metal frame thing that's between the outer skin and the inside trim panel is called). How did you re-adhere the plastic inserts to keep the moisture out?
Thanks!
 

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From my experience, sound deadening is not recommended in So. Cal, as in a couple summers, it will start melting.
 
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